MDJuan Tubs |
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bretto
Member Joined: 05 June 2010 Location: Orem, Ut Status: Offline Points: 1930 |
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The one big miss in my book is the thickness of the metal used in the MD Juan line. I cant speak 1st hand about a tub but of the smaller items I have bought, they are lacking in the proper guage of metal. In comparison to the original equip, the quality is just not there. Sad to say but it is what it is.
It was noted above about the primer used. I can't imagine having to strip all the primer off a tub to get to the metal to do a proper job of redoing it. Some have called it modern day cosmoline. Of the small parts I have used, I try to get it sanded off and re-primer.
Some of your competition uses you and your companies quality, indirectly, in selling their quality.
I for one would rather seek out a used tub and fix what is needed before going the route of of a repo tub. Here in the USA, we have a sour taste in our mouth about buying overseas. There is a lot of cheap labor and junk coming our way from that direction. Thats not to say there isnt quality out there.
We are not here trying to attack you, just stating first hand experiences. I sincerely thanks you for coming and visiting this site. I'm sure I speak for all in saying we hope our feed back helps in your QC.
Cheers,
Brett
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samcj2a
Member Sponsor Member x 5 Joined: 21 Oct. 2006 Location: Arlington, VA Status: Offline Points: 8549 |
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I second all those welcoming Rommel Juan to our forum. Also, I know that we all appreciate his willingness to hear what we have to say about how we think the products can be improved. Finally, I think we all should continue the generally constructive tone of the replies.
I will be moving this thread to the Product Review Forum - Body section. I believe that is the most appropriate place for it. All the old links to the thread and posts in the General Discussion forum will still work. Thanks, again, Rommel for joining our group. |
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RommelJuan
Member Joined: 08 Feb. 2013 Location: Philippines Status: Offline Points: 265 |
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Glad to be here :) thanks for the very warm welcome.
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F Bill
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 05 Dec. 2005 Location: central Texas Status: Offline Points: 7752 |
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Rommel, where does one find the serial number on your tubs? And is it in a format that can be easily translated into a date of manufacture?
Thanks for posting that article by the jeep group, nice pictures in there.
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If you haven't checked out the tech FAQ section, go to:
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/tech-faq_forum57.html for a lot of great stuff you need to know!! |
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Oilleaker1
Member Joined: 06 Sep. 2011 Location: Black Hills, SD Status: Offline Points: 4412 |
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I think he needs a comprehensive list of the items that don't fit, one at a time. 1. windshield didn't fit the cowl. 2. windshield glass doesn't fit in too narrow of a channel 3. rear of hood doesn't fit the cowl. 4. shifter doesn't line up with the hole in transmission tunnel. 4. Toolbox lid doesn't fit the original tub opening. 5. RF fender batterybox curve hits the battery base on the frame. Instruments didn't fit the holes in the dash. 6. what about the clutch, brake, and steering column holes being in the right place when the floor mounts (that didn't line up) are lined up. 7. gas tank and side filler opening lining up 8. New inner windshield frame doesn't fit original outer frame. 9 no corner or top bow pockets. 10. original seat frames don't line up with new tub's mounting holes. Elevation of all body mount points are off from original frame elevations-----------you guys can add more. This is all off the top of my head and some may have been corrected since I worked on a older kit. The point is that we want to buy any of the body parts you sell and have them fit original applications or even your application. Interchangable parts with a close tolerance is a must. If I could buy a kit that is a bolt on fit within reason, nothing is perfect, I'd be inclined to buy it! Thanks for being up front with us here! Good for you! John
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Green Disease, Jeeps, Old Iron!
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rocnroll
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 20 July 2005 Location: Tuscumbia, AL Status: Offline Points: 13612 |
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There is already a pretty comprehensive list in the MDJaun Faults thread http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/md-juan-body-faults_topic26386.html
I can see these two threads getting somewhat convoluted.....and maybe counterproductive.
Looks like the info needs to be in one place...... (IMO)
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'47 CJ2A PU
'48 CJ2A Lefty "Common sense is not that common" |
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RommelJuan
Member Joined: 08 Feb. 2013 Location: Philippines Status: Offline Points: 265 |
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Here is how we identify the date of production on the serial numbers of our tubs:
so this tub: was made in November 2006
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RommelJuan
Member Joined: 08 Feb. 2013 Location: Philippines Status: Offline Points: 265 |
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This problem has been resolved.
The repro top cowl was ½” narrower then, the repro hood was made 1/2 “ narrower to fit the repro tub. Windshield fit was also affected because of narrow top cowl. Problems were corrected June 2006 |
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RommelJuan
Member Joined: 08 Feb. 2013 Location: Philippines Status: Offline Points: 265 |
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We took an original windshield and put it on our MDJuan reproduction tub:
and we took our reproduction hood and installed it on an original tub: for you to see.
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RommelJuan
Member Joined: 08 Feb. 2013 Location: Philippines Status: Offline Points: 265 |
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We resolved this problem in 2008 |
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RommelJuan
Member Joined: 08 Feb. 2013 Location: Philippines Status: Offline Points: 265 |
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by the way the serial number of our original CJ2A located at the firewall is 41324. Does that make sense? Is that a right serial number?
Edited by RommelJuan - 09 Feb. 2013 at 10:59am |
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samcj2a
Member Sponsor Member x 5 Joined: 21 Oct. 2006 Location: Arlington, VA Status: Offline Points: 8549 |
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CJ-2A 41324 is a mid-1946 CJ-2A serial number. It would have been produced shortly after the end of column shift production. Since the bodies were produced for Willys by America Central Manufacturing in the early years, this tub would also have a so-called ACM number stamped along the driver's side toe board gusset. The ACM numbers were started at 1 while the Willys numbers were started at 10001 so there is approximately a 10,000 unit difference between the two numbers. So, the ACM number on your tub should be 31300 +/- if the Willys serial number is original to the tub. Sean of this forum, an extremely knowledgeable member, has published the CJ-2A Serial numbers & locations
pages on his own Web site and provide links to them here in various posts. There are photos of the ACM number location. Click on the smaller photos to bring up larger versions. Also on that page is a link to a pdf version of his information that he offers for download. |
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F Bill
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 05 Dec. 2005 Location: central Texas Status: Offline Points: 7752 |
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Rommel, I see you have an ID number on the BOX the tub comes in.....but do you have the number actually on the tub?
I tlooks as if just maybe vendors are still selling old stock, hence the continued problems..What good is improving your present product when there are still unsold early and incorrect units out there. Somehow those wrong tubs need to be removed from the system when you do major improvements. It would be expensive to buy back all the older tubs from your vendors but the PR would be excellent. On your shifter hole problem....it is more than just the distance to the back of the tub. The distance to the each side as well, and the height of the hole compared to the height of he body mounts is critical. A better test of accuracy in that hole woud be to get a good rolling chassis with steering column, transmission, transfer case, and pedals. Set your tub down over it and see what lines up and what doesn't. Of course, you will have to cut the pedal holes and column hole first. Your original tub appears to have had a 70's paint job applied to it......Hopefully it is an accurate representation of the 2a and hasn't been bodyworked to the point where it no longer has the right contours. Something looks different about the windshield arms, an often bent area. You might consider acquiring another 2A or 3A and double checking the cowl and windshield area. As part of the windshield checking process you need to make certain the distance from the windshield tip to the rear edge of the tub is correct. That angle is critical for new tops fitting the jeep. Perhaps a NOS windshield needs to be obtained for some critical measuring.
Edited by F Bill - 09 Feb. 2013 at 3:06pm |
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If you haven't checked out the tech FAQ section, go to:
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/tech-faq_forum57.html for a lot of great stuff you need to know!! |
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RommelJuan
Member Joined: 08 Feb. 2013 Location: Philippines Status: Offline Points: 265 |
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Hi F Bill. We do have numbers on the tub. I will take pictures on Monday and post it here. It's usually on the firewall facing the engine compartment.
We have consistently been selling cj2as and 3as over the years so I doubt if there are many old stocks with our dealers. We also measured the transmission hole from the side of the tub. I'll try to put an MDJuan tub on the running chassis of our original CJ2a and post it here by next week. Our original Cj2a was in excellent shape when we got it. Hardly any rust. The guy who sold it to us even kept all the parts, bulbs and rubbers that he replaced over the years. I'll show pictures of that too. But we repainted it Luzon Red (Because Luzon is an Island in the Philippines) as stated on the CJ2a color guide. But it didn't turn out so nice. I might repaint it to original beige. Rommel
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Adrian
Member Joined: 01 Oct. 2011 Location: New Zealand Status: Offline Points: 1517 |
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Rommel
Welcome to the CJ2A page from one of your customers, There was a thread some time back where I listed problems that I noticed only after the final coat of paint on my early 2a I guess one way you could also help guys like us would be to supply a list whats is required to finish each tub etc and perhaps some dimensions for holes etc. I am also aware that of course the more work MD Juan do on each body before it leaves the factory will also effect the final price, but maybe some form of Instruction list could be included with new bodies so that buyers can then finish them off without fear of having missed something. Overall I am more than happy with what I got considering the price and would buy another body from MD Juan if I was going to do another restoration.........that could be a few years away!! As some of us do not have the option of getting an original body (too far from the USA etc), then what you offer is a great choice when if like me the original body was long gone when I brought the Jeep. Thanks for your comments and I am sure there will be many pages yet to come on this thread.. Adrian New Zealand |
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1946 CJ-2A Column Change 14605
1973 Saab 96 |
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dschroff
Member Joined: 11 Aug. 2011 Location: Peoria Illinois Status: Offline Points: 275 |
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Rommel, it's great to hear that you are interested in improving the quality of your body tubs. As a relatively new CJ2A owner and restorer, I have been weighing buying a replacement tub vs repairing mine or finding a donor jeep. Because of all the negative opinions I have found here about your products, I have been on the fence about what to do. If you are committed to improving quality and the results can be proven, I will strongly consider buying one of your body tubs. I applaud your willingness to join this forum and take the constructive criticsm that our members have offered.
David in Illinois
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RommelJuan
Member Joined: 08 Feb. 2013 Location: Philippines Status: Offline Points: 265 |
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thanks guys. I listed 33 main complaints that we got from various threads for Cj2 and Cj3a tubs that we make.
Mostly we have fixed the major issues. What we still do not have are all the holes for the bolts and stuff. Maybe the forum members can help me identify the right hole locations? I will also try to come up with a graphical representation of all our hole location and maybe you guys can chime in and give your opinion. Rommel
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Joe Friday
Moderator Group Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 26 Dec. 2010 Location: Jeep Central Status: Offline Points: 3655 |
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I'm sure you meant Harvest Tan Don't worry - we'll get you to where you need to be... I think the comment about the 1970's repaint might have been partially due to observing that the fender seam on the rear of the left front fender in your photo has been filled in with something we might refer to here as 'bondo'.
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