Mini-starters

I ended up going with the Land Cruiser starter. So far, so good. Thought about the gear reduction starters, but for $55 bucks, it's working great. A lot less drain on the battery now over the old original starter and a lot lighter.

I'll add a little info to this thread.  This may help some people, but confuse the situation for others.

Edited by athawk11 - 12 July 2019 at 4:36pm

Does The 16828 Toyota Starter need the F-head housing for clearance of the snout?

Here is the one I choose to use. Its a rebuild and cost me a total of $55 with the core returned. Which was a tired out chevy starter, but don't tell them that.  I used a spare engine plate from a M38a1 in my vise and did use a rats tale file to open the holes slightly. The inside diameter was near perfect fit to the engine plate. They say that you have to used a smaller diameter bolt for the bottom when installing, but I just slightly hit the bottom hole on the starter with the rat tale and was able to use the original bolt. All in all, I would say that it took me about a minute or two to remove enough material, to get both stock bolts to work. I did however, pick up a large allen head screw for the top bolt instead of the hex. It was a lot easier to get the allen head wrench in the now tight spot to tighten that top bolt. There is the extra wire on top of the solenoid which is now on the starter instead of the fender. That wire just needs to be taped off and kept from any metal. It is live all the time the starter is wired live. I did have to trim a little off the starter housing to get it to align with the holes, once going into the engine plate. Too late to show you that, but it just amounted to a 1/16 inch lip, that j hit the block when going in. the starter is a very good choice when thinking about replacing a tired worn out original. I only did it, because I could not get a new original here quick enough for my desire to hear my new engine run. This one was available same day at the auto parts store. Now my original starter is sitting there all lonely on the shelf. I promised it that I would rebuild it at some point, but not rushing that now.  Wish I took more pictures when I was doing this, but like I said, I wanted to hear my new F head fire up. PS; This is in my newly acquired 1953 CJ3b.

Edited by masscj2a - 13 July 2019 at 2:47pm

Rick R wrote: I’ll post a couple of photos and include the instructions

Who's running a 'regular' starter relay and who's not......and why.

My thinking is ....If it can be run without why add another 'failure' point to the system?

(mine is just like the one Rick pictured with spade terminal)

Yeah that's where I'm at with mine too.....been too busy with non Jeep related stuff to fool with it.

Hopefully the two Rick's (and others) will give their opinions on the best way to wire (since there are options)

Spinnas wrote: With the above pictured starter, there is no need for the relay as the solenoid is built onto the starter ......

The "above pictured starter" (Masscj2a) is the Toyota starter.......NOT the one I am using (and from the way it sounds Mike either)

We are using the one pictured in Rick's post.

But your thought seems to be what I am thinking ....needless complication.

Was just wanting to see what they had opted to do on theirs.

My plan is to run the cables from the alternator and battery to the main terminal on the starter. Then hook up the start circuit wire from the 4 way switch I put in last time I fixed things. It will go to smaller terminal. The plate and maybe the spur been changed. The plate is machines to reference to the bell-housing and can be clocked around to any of 3 positions as necessary. 

No joy on mine....starter seems to do what it's supposed to ....except engage the flywheel.

124 tooth flywheel....9 tooth starter.....2A bellhosing.

What next?