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Modern EFI engines?

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Jeff J View Drop Down
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    Posted: 26 Dec. 2022 at 7:32pm
I am curious about engine upgrades. I have gotten spoiled by today’s technologies where spark plugs get changed every 100,000 miles and pretty much nothing fails with less than 150,000 miles. I have read with great interest about the Kubota swaps but also want to know if there are any modern (current century) gas engines that could be installed with a reasonable price and amount of work. I am not necessarily looking for a power increase. I just haven’t missed needing to constantly tinker on my daily driver to keep it reliable or waiting for it to warm up enough on a cold start to get it rolling down the driveway. 

Thanks,
Jeff
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oldtime View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Dec. 2022 at 7:41pm
IMHO most any diesel will be more reliable than any gasoline engine. 
So your going to be hard pressed to find anything more reliable than that small Kubota.
If wanting modern reliable gasoline power; I would be looking hard at the 
I-4 Toyota engines to see what might be adapted.


Edited by oldtime - 26 Dec. 2022 at 7:43pm
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
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duffer View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote duffer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Dec. 2022 at 10:28pm
Originally posted by oldtime oldtime wrote:

IMHO most any diesel will be more reliable than any gasoline engine.
That used to be true.  Not so much anymore with electronic control on everything now.  I think it's about a toss up at the present time.  Same for longevity.  What diesel does buy is a mountain of torque and better economy, along with cold weather starting problems.
1955 3B: 441sbc,AGE 4 speed transmission, Teralow D18w/Warn OD, 4.11:1 D44's/ARB's, glass tub & fenders, aluminum hood/grill, 8274, York OBA, Premier Power Welder; 67 CJ5: 225,T86AA, D18, 4.88's, OD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jw60 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Dec. 2022 at 11:25pm
A early 90's chevy 4.3 or ford ranger 2.5 are well supported and relatively easy to install.
You could get a chevy 3800 v6 to adapt but it's easier to go 5.3 v8.

A L134 can be fuel injected, you can convert over to a full flow oil filter, hei ignition, then the later pcv system and have most of the service intervals will be extended by quite a bit. The biggest issue that is hard to address is the low compression ratio. 

I feel like the 2.5 is the easiest and cheapest and the 4.3 is the better value.


Edited by Jw60 - 26 Dec. 2022 at 11:27pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oldpappy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Dec. 2022 at 8:21am

As Mark suggests the little Ford 2.5 engine is a fairly easy swap, and so is the Chevy 4.3, which is a good choice if you want more power. Either of these are good choices.

I personally like to remain stock, other than brakes, and have no complaints about reliability. The "tinkering" is minimal and one of the things I enjoy most about antique vehicles is keeping them in good order.  

Just for fun I went down to the barn Christmas morning when it was 7 degrees here, and both of the Jeeps I have down there started on the first try. They did take a few minutes to warm up enough to push in the throttle, but once there they both idled smoothly. The 47 has the L134, the 67 has the F134, both carbureted with breaker point ignition. 


Edited by Oldpappy - 27 Dec. 2022 at 8:26am
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IRQVET View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IRQVET Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Dec. 2022 at 9:57am
I did see something pop up on my fb news feed, it was an LS inline four that I guess was recently introduced as a prototype. I guess the manufacturer was overwhelmed with interest and people asking to put deposits on them. From the picture it looked about to be the same footprint as the go-devil. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nick_ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Dec. 2022 at 10:29am
I'm paraphrasing here, but one time I read something along the lines of "The most reliable engine in the world is an LS, and the most unreliable is an LS swap."

Changing engines requires a whole new level of additional modifications that don't always go to plan. Whether it be steering linkages, master cylinder, cooling, etc. there is almost always something to fix or improve. After all that trial and error, suddenly a huge oil leak appears in the rear axle. That's just old car ownership.

The new LS-based 4 cylinder engine looks like a treat. I can't wait for them to produce them. If I wanted the simplest route to have a turn-key engine, the EFI L134 can be done in a few weekends. It's a wonderful addition.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote duffer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Dec. 2022 at 11:31am
Originally posted by Nick_ Nick_ wrote:

Changing engines requires a whole new level of additional modifications that don't always go to plan. Whether it be steering linkages, master cylinder, cooling, etc. there is almost always something to fix or improve.

It depends entirely on the engine selected for the replacement.  If one sticks with a V6, the only real change needed is the radiator.  The rest of it can live a pretty normal life.  If you are going bigger than that, you had better engineer the ENTIRE vehicle to match.  I kind of enjoy working through those engineering problems.
1955 3B: 441sbc,AGE 4 speed transmission, Teralow D18w/Warn OD, 4.11:1 D44's/ARB's, glass tub & fenders, aluminum hood/grill, 8274, York OBA, Premier Power Welder; 67 CJ5: 225,T86AA, D18, 4.88's, OD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CMCSSeabee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Dec. 2022 at 8:36pm
Your question has been going on in my own mind lately. Although I have been wrenching on my own engines for 56 years (and enjoy it) there is something to be said for getting in my 07 Escape, turn the key, put it in D, and go! That said, my 94 Cherokee 4.0 HO (EFI, electronic ignition) has left me stranded twice (tows required $$) in the 6 months I've owned it and the lock up convertor only works when it's "in the mood."
I am having this very dilemma myself right now with my 52 Delivery. It has a perfectly fine 1968 AMC 199 with single barrel and single exhaust that runs great, gets decent mileage and has never left me stranded in the 5 years since I restored it. The engine is on its' original bore (84K miles), has a rebuilt Carter YF carb, but I did install an HEI GM style distributor. It still has the T-90/D-18 and a BW R10 overdrive. 
I have another great running 4.0 HO (1998 version) with AW-4 trans and 231 transfercase that I am thinking about swapping into the Delivery. I would swap the axles as well. Why you may ask? More power, fuel economy, ease of operation and reliability(?!). If I do, I will swap ALL of the electrical harnesses and components from the Cherokee and install them in the Delivery to end up with a "standard" wiring system. This will hopefully prevent the swap over mystery problems that always rear their ugly head when merging various harnesses, gauges and switches. The Cherokee HVAC will not fit, so I'd keep the 1972 Ford pickup under dash system I have now (another bastardized effort, but it works, sorta.....)
If I was smart (I am not), I would LEAVE IT THE HELL ALONE! If it breaks down now, I should almost always be able to get it running on my own. I even carry the original distributor with me, even though the GM unit has been flawless (damn it, jinx!!).
Regarding diesels, the price of fuel has negated the advantages to owning a diesel. I have a 1997 Dodge Ram 2500 4X4 with a Cummins (yes, everything I have is old!), but it's a cream puff trailer tower only unit that I will have til I die. I love that truck, but it has broken down on me a few times on trips, like EVERY other mechanical device will eventually. The good news is, I was able to fix it on the side of the road and make it home. It ate 5th gear 4 times in 135K miles, so I recently upgraded it to the Mercedes G-56 six speed from a late model Ram 3500 diesel. Love driving that and it will hopefully last. Diesel just means more expensive repairs. I have at least $7K just in that swap effort doing it all myself.
Diesel rattle in a CJ-2 would be a bitch to suffer through after a while. Even in my pickup, I am nearly deaf after 500 miles and it has a full exhaust and sound deadening in the cab. The Kubota 2203 only makes 110 lb ft, and the Go Devil makes 105 lb ft, so....................
My vote is to go with whatever engine YOU are most comfortable with repairing on the side of the road and is the CHEAPEST/EASIEST to get parts for when it does break down (it will!).

Happy Jeepin'

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Agas46cj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Dec. 2022 at 6:13am
If you would like a reliable engine find an old mechanical turbo diesel out of a vw rabbit or even a TDI if you don’t mind electricals. Millenniumfalcon has done a tdi swap and can chime in in that one. 
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