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My 1946 CJ2A # J152298 Stealth Maggot |
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bosshoff ![]() Member ![]() Joined: 30 Apr. 2012 Location: chicagoland Status: Offline Points: 201 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 23 Jan. 2017 at 1:53am |
![]() I think I am going to pull the drivetrain, and axels to flip the frame and get it into the shape I want it to be in. My master plan is not a restoration. This Jeep is just a fun vehicle. I plan on getting a MB-2A style tub from D&L Bensinger. I plan on reusing my original trashed fenders, hood, grill and CJ-3A windshield (with bullet hole). Edited by bosshoff - 23 Jan. 2017 at 3:26pm |
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bosshoff ![]() Member ![]() Joined: 30 Apr. 2012 Location: chicagoland Status: Offline Points: 201 |
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I really did not take any good before pictures. She was only pretty from the front.
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CJ2A-CT ![]() Member ![]() ![]() Joined: 19 Apr. 2016 Location: Connecticut Status: Offline Points: 359 |
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Looks like a great platform to start your adventure. Good luck and I'll be looking for progress photos.
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46 CJ2a 22786 Brer Rabbit, 53 Willys Wagon, 62 Willys Pickup building with son-in-law, Jason
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bosshoff ![]() Member ![]() Joined: 30 Apr. 2012 Location: chicagoland Status: Offline Points: 201 |
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So I rolled the maggot out of the semi-heated garage, and gave her a pressure was bath. It is currently 26 degrees in Chicagoland. The transfer case and trans look much better. She is back in her stall with the Rigid carpet fan drying her, and the oil filled dragon heater trying to temper the garage space.
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bosshoff ![]() Member ![]() Joined: 30 Apr. 2012 Location: chicagoland Status: Offline Points: 201 |
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Factory boxing? Please look at my rear inner frame rails. I know the picture is pretty busy. Ignore the C channel intermediate crossmember, and the lack of the rear crossmember and V bracket. I have been removing the horrible farmer boxing, and exposing the original frame underneath. Does this inner boxing look like it came from the factory? I am trying to figure out what I have, and to get it back into some condition. My current intention is to remove all of the bad bubba metal, and then have all of the welds redone. If the boxing is messed up, I will probably replace it with a more appropriate gauge metal (11-12 gauge) than the 1/4-3/8" plate farmer bob the stick welder used. Thanks.
![]() Edited by bosshoff - 02 Feb. 2017 at 2:27pm |
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bosshoff ![]() Member ![]() Joined: 30 Apr. 2012 Location: chicagoland Status: Offline Points: 201 |
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Okay, after removing more metal, I have four holes in the frame/boxing right where the intermediate crossmember would go. What are these four holes per side for? Can anyone post a pic? I tried to get a 2A intermediate cross member, but no one sells one. I ended up with a MB-38 unit. It looks like it will work, albeit differently. Thanks
Edited by bosshoff - 03 Feb. 2017 at 3:02am |
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bosshoff ![]() Member ![]() Joined: 30 Apr. 2012 Location: chicagoland Status: Offline Points: 201 |
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So my inner boxing of the rear frame looks to be original Willys factory boxing. It is pretty mangled up. I am going to have to decide whether I remove and replace it with new metal, or if I simply just reweld the top and bottoms front to back with nice new clean welds.
Please someone post this dimension from the flat part of the forward crossmember to the edge of the intermediate crossmember? Here is a picture. I am trying to figure out how to intergrate my new M-38 intermediate crossmember (not shown in the pic.) Please ignore the C-Channel crossmember, it was cut out last night.
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wadoyado ![]() Member ![]() ![]() Sponsor Member Joined: 29 Sep. 2016 Location: Mi. Status: Offline Points: 728 |
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bosshoff ![]() Member ![]() Joined: 30 Apr. 2012 Location: chicagoland Status: Offline Points: 201 |
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Thanks Wadoyado, exactly what I was looking for.
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wadoyado ![]() Member ![]() ![]() Sponsor Member Joined: 29 Sep. 2016 Location: Mi. Status: Offline Points: 728 |
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Hold the show I just noticed my frame crossmember I measured from is straight across where as yours isn't. Best check into that more, I know there are slight changes between a cj2a and tweener like I have -late48 and cj3a. I technically have a cj2a but my frame looks cj3a. Confused enough? Joe Wadoyado
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bosshoff ![]() Member ![]() Joined: 30 Apr. 2012 Location: chicagoland Status: Offline Points: 201 |
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Wadoyado, I cut that home made cross member out. No worries. Mine will look just like yours when completed.
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bosshoff ![]() Member ![]() Joined: 30 Apr. 2012 Location: chicagoland Status: Offline Points: 201 |
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A little bit of progress last night and this morning.
![]() Removed the winch plate and winch to expose bubba frame repairs. Not going to mess with front frame modifications. I may clean up some welds, and then smooth out but that is it. Oh, by the way, I found the original frame tag hidden under a piece of bar stock welded to the frame horn. I cut it back to get to it. It does not match my body or tittle. Removed the radiator, fan shroud, and plug wires. Last night I tied in a substitute rear cross member to keep things in order. I am basically stalled on the rear frame work until my goodie basket shows up from Walcks, Classic Enterprises, and Ron Fitzpatrick Jeep Parts. |
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Unkamonkey ![]() Member ![]() Joined: 23 Mar. 2016 Location: Greeley CO Status: Offline Points: 2088 |
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My brother bought a M38 with a clean title and there was no dash plates or a place on the frame with a number. I pointed out the place behind the passenger seat for the other plate that didn't match anything. It was time to walk away and just look up at the sky while you whistled.
My old MB had a matching frame number but no LEO ever crawled under there to check it out. I suspect that they didn't even know where it was. |
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uncamonkey
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bosshoff ![]() Member ![]() Joined: 30 Apr. 2012 Location: chicagoland Status: Offline Points: 201 |
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I am a bit confused. My title and serial inumber are 1946. I think this is correct. I am looking at replacing a lot of homemade metal. Looking at the pintle V-gusset, the unit is as wide as the frame at roughly 29" plus. My frame has four drilled holes on each side where I thought this gusset might attach. The frame is boxed in this area up to the second intermediate cross member. I thought this was factory boxing? Was this originally open C-channel? Does the V-bracket actually get secured to the outside sides of the frame?
Second question, why do I have holes on the inner and outer sides of the frame to mount the tabs that the body bolts to? Is this normal? I thought MB's had on set of tabs on the inside and the other on the outside? Why would my CJ2A have them on both sides of the driver side frame rail? ![]() ![]() ![]() Edited by bosshoff - 15 Feb. 2017 at 12:22pm |
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bosshoff ![]() Member ![]() Joined: 30 Apr. 2012 Location: chicagoland Status: Offline Points: 201 |
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Okay, I think I have figured out a few things. Walks lists the same V bracket for the MB, CJ2A-3A, etc. They mention that the part may need to be modified for use with a CJ-2A. I missed that little lovely, and frankly, that sucks.
It also looks like the boxing I have is factory. I was having my doubts, but remember, this is my only Willys. I have no other access to another to compare to, other than you guys. ![]() Back to the pintle V-bracket, how did YOU modify yours to work? I am replacing the intermediate crossmember (IC) also, so I am considering trimming away the frame boxing to insert the IC into the channel section of the rear frame. I may leave the V-bracket as is and also sandwich it into the channel section of the frame. Once in place, I can then always go back and replace the rear boxing. You know, a lot of this would be easier if the parts I've ordered from various vendors wouldn't take two (2) weeks to process and ship. |
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a4cj2a77 ![]() Member ![]() Sponsor Member Joined: 03 Sep. 2012 Location: Seal Beach Ca. Status: Offline Points: 564 |
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Looks like you are making progress on the frame (Tech Questions/Answer section). Amazing how much better it already looks. Nice work
Phil
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bosshoff ![]() Member ![]() Joined: 30 Apr. 2012 Location: chicagoland Status: Offline Points: 201 |
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Who knew I hated hole saws so much! The first Lenox brand one i used drilled 4.5 holes throught the 3/16" plate before getting too dull to cut (2.0" diameter holes). Then I went through two (2) milwaukee brand and one Kobalt brand, and they did not make it through the metal! I gave up and dropped the plate off with a local tool and die buddy who will either drill or CNC the holes for me. anyhow, here is where I am at. The frame is cracked in the rear almost 100%. The top strapping is in tack. I moved the jack stands to in front of the leaf spring pivot, so the frame won't fold in. I bolted the plate to the drivers side. Once I get the passenger side back I will do the same. Then off to the welder. I think I will have him MIG the frame back together at the seam, and then I will install the plate I made, and have him weld the perimeter of the plate, as well as the lightning circles to really lock it up. Here are some
Edited by bosshoff - 28 Feb. 2017 at 3:39pm |
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bosshoff ![]() Member ![]() Joined: 30 Apr. 2012 Location: chicagoland Status: Offline Points: 201 |
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