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MY '47 CJ-2A

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jeepsterjim View Drop Down
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    Posted: 12 Mar. 2019 at 5:26pm
This thread will hopefully share my 1947 CJ-2A  project with fellow enthusiasts.

This 2A has been with me since 1961 ---a few days ago, LOL.  It ran until the starter went out over 20 years ago and sadly has been starving for attention ever since.. It is now time to fix her up.  

HERE WE GO!

Going to start a little backwards  but why not. First goal is to make this 2A meet today's driving conditions.  So i'm starting off upgrading the brakes and steering while repairing/replacing external parts as needed.

YOUR INPUT IS VALUABLE ON THIS QUEST SO PLEASE CHIME IN, I need all the help.

Starting off  needing to replace the engine mounting plate from a 2a to a 3a.

pulled the front clip off, removed the radiator, and now diving into removing the crank pulley, timing cover, timing gears, and then the plate.

Here come the pics.

Bubba has been here



CRANK PULLEY-FRONT VIEW

 
Could not find any numbers or lettering on the pulley.  Lucked out, the pulley slide off by hand.



NOTICE THE PULLEYS WEAR PATTERN ON THE UPPER PIC 
TIMING COVER OUTSIDE VIEW



THE LARGE WASHER LOOKING THING SEEMS TO BE WHAT WAS RUBBING ON THE BACKSIDE OF THE PULLEY....????  

INSIDE TIMING COVER

LOOKS FAIRLY CLEAN INSIDE.


CAM GEAR HAD THE WORD "HOOF" STAMPED IN IT

Surprised how clean it is inside, and the gears appear good....will remove, clean'um up and see.
Concern, why is the pulley rubbing on the timing cover?  What is that large washer thing?

Will  remove the gears and plate tomorrow.  wish me luck

Jim
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike F Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Mar. 2019 at 5:54pm
The gears do take a puller Jim. The cam gear can be especially difficult. I used a 2 slot puller with 2 long bolts with the heads thinned and as big of a washer as I could get through the holes. You have to have it turned just right for the bolt heads and washers to fit. I think it’s best to pull the valves and tappets first so the cam can turn as the gear is pulled. Should be easier on the fiber gear teeth. There are stories around about fellers trying to bar them off and breaking them. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeepsterjim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Mar. 2019 at 6:03pm
Originally posted by Mike F Mike F wrote:

The gears do take a puller Jim. The cam gear can be especially difficult. I used a 2 slot puller with 2 long bolts with the heads thinned and as big of a washer as I could get through the holes. You have to have it turned just right for the bolt heads and washers to fit. I think it’s best to pull the valves and tappets first so the cam can turn as the gear is pulled. Should be easier on the fiber gear teeth. There are stories around about fellers trying to bar them off and breaking them. 

Thanks Mike for the advice. I need it.  Seems I have lost all my flat fender manuals and I don't remember  the "how to" stuff.   I do have pullers and such...somewhere.LOL

OH, I did find my 1 3/8" socket, Napa was holding it ransom for $11.95.  They shined it up real nice!

Jim
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike F Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Mar. 2019 at 6:13pm
Originally posted by jeepsterjim jeepsterjim wrote:

Originally posted by Mike F Mike F wrote:

The gears do take a puller Jim. The cam gear can be especially difficult. I used a 2 slot puller with 2 long bolts with the heads thinned and as big of a washer as I could get through the holes. You have to have it turned just right for the bolt heads and washers to fit. I think it’s best to pull the valves and tappets first so the cam can turn as the gear is pulled. Should be easier on the fiber gear teeth. There are stories around about fellers trying to bar them off and breaking them. 

Thanks Mike for the advice. I need it.  Seems I have lost all my flat fender manuals and I don't remember  the "how to" stuff.   I do have pullers and such...somewhere.LOL

OH, I did find my 1 3/8" socket, Napa was holding it ransom for $11.95.  They shined it up real nice!

Jim

LOL You know that you'll now soon find the old one right.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeepsterjim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Mar. 2019 at 7:58pm
Mike F wrote
                     LOL You know that you'll now soon find the old one right.

Oh heck yeah, never fails.  
Jim

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeepsterjim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar. 2019 at 8:41pm
Had time to tear apart the clutch/brake assembly for the upcoming M/C conversion.  I am using the R&P bracket with the Wildwood dual M/C. 
I am getting mixed reports such as;
1  I do not have to cut out or remove any existing brackets or plates.
2  I need to cut off the clutch/brake rod bracket that's welded to the frame. Replace with a 3A type.
 
Advice needed.

Any idea what's needed?  Here are pics of what my 2A looks like in the M/C area.




Jim


Edited by jeepsterjim - 19 Mar. 2019 at 7:06pm
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After soaking, mild heating up, and dead blows on the three thermostat bolts,  they came out without breakage.Smile  

Here is what I found ....

Bubba might have been a Italian?LOL



Glad the housing did not break



I have a new thermostat assembly coming from Walcks.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeepsterjim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Mar. 2019 at 7:28pm
Did more exploring today. 

Cleaned up the thermostat housing and found the maker of it and the part #.  Never heard of this company.  Have you?

See pics
Confused


part # is A 1192

Next thing was to remove the clutch bell crank and then the skid plate so I can clean and then replace the trans mount.  Check out the heap of crud that was on top of the skid plate, un-real.  A lot of it is avocado leaves,stems, fox tails, and a head scratching surprise. See pics


Organic Jeep crud


What the heck?  Like to know how it got  placed in the crud, LOL


Skid plate is tweaked, damn!   the one side was rubbing against the bell housing.  A rose bud and a BHF will be neededLOL


Lots and lots of crud removal still.  More mysteries.
Jim


Edited by jeepsterjim - 19 Mar. 2019 at 7:31pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greaser007 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar. 2019 at 10:34am
Jim, omg, i'd hate to have to dig through that crud with an "on-trail" repair.

What company is R & P ?

You could have those needles time-dated, and they may be petrified ! hahaha

From looking at the bracket photos, I don't see much rust under the grease and oil build-up. My dad always reminded me that if it is covered with oil, it won't rust.

   I am up here east of Anderson, California. Back in the '80's and '90's the last stop for supplies before assaulting the Rubicon trail was Placerville.
Beer and Ice _ _ _ and goodies. Well, just like with you, it has been 34-years since my last Willys refurb, 1984, and I have forgotten everything about how-to do most of the components, but am now on a "Re-Learn" with another '46.
( and not devoting much time to it ).   hahaha
Does PartsMike have a parts-room at his business do you know ?

   It is good to hear you are on-tap with a refurb.

Edited by Greaser007 - 20 Mar. 2019 at 10:40am
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Originally posted by Greaser007 Greaser007 wrote:

Jim, omg, i'd hate to have to dig through that crud with an "on-trail" repair.

What company is R & P ?

You could have those needles time-dated, and they may be petrified ! hahaha

From looking at the bracket photos, I don't see much rust under the grease and oil build-up. My dad always reminded me that if it is covered with oil, it won't rust.

   I am up here east of Anderson, California. Back in the '80's and '90's the last stop for supplies before assaulting the Rubicon trail was Placerville.
Beer and Ice _ _ _ and goodies. Well, just like with you, it has been 34-years since my last Willys refurb, 1984, and I have forgotten everything about how-to do most of the components, but am now on a "Re-Learn" with another '46.
( and not devoting much time to it ).   hahaha
Does PartsMike have a parts-room at his business do you know ?

   It is good to hear you are on-tap with a refurb.

Finding, what a first thought to be a rats nest, turned out to be debris from using the 2a in the groves.  Brought back driving it....hard work, and a little rat patrol as well.LOL

I used to say to friends, oil leaks is my rust proofing.

As mentioned else where in here, this 2A has been with me since '61 and its now time to clean her up.
 
R&P 4WD is out of Oregon. He makes disc brake conversions...uses Suzuki rotor and S-10 calipers.  M/C dual brake kit, and more.  EWillys has a write up.

if up my way, stop by!!!

Jim
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeepsterjim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar. 2019 at 8:44pm
Picked up this vintage tool.  Should work fine for a L-134.
it is made by Wilde tool.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeepsterjim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Mar. 2019 at 6:31pm
Was able to remove clutch/brake frame bracket today.

BEFORE

AFTER

INSIDE PLATE BEFORE

AFTER
 
BUBBA CLUTCH LINKAGE REPAIR, how does one bend or break this rod?

My Dualmatic hubs and muffler


Received a box of parts from Walcks today and also my Wildwood M/C.  Lots of scrapping to do still.

Jim 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Mar. 2019 at 6:54pm
Single lever Dualmatics. Those must be pretty rare.
1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
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Amazed to find the  bolts safety wired.  

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ol' Unreliable Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Mar. 2019 at 7:17pm
Originally posted by jeepsterjim jeepsterjim wrote:

BUBBA CLUTCH LINKAGE REPAIR, how does one bend or break this rod?



What usually happens is that one of the short ends breaks off.  Then you replace the whole rod and another end breaks off.  Then you just take the two ends that are still good and you put them together somehow.  I simply welded my two good halves together.  Wink
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Had time to mount the 3A type clutch/brake bracket that mounts to the bottom frame rail.  Also drilled the holes for the dual master brake bracket.  

clamped new bracket to the frame. Marked  the holes for drilling and proceeded to remount the bracket.

The new bracket  bolted up with bell crank in place

You can drill the dual M/C bracket from the outside of the frame.  Makes it easier to do. 

Bottom view of the brackets.  This time the M/C bracket is inside the frame rail, right where it needs to be.
Bottom view, from the front, of the assembly.


Still have to install a frame stiffener, like the 3A has.  

Lots to do.  But today was goodSmile

Jim
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Worked on the "frame stiffener" today.  By viewing pics, it seems later CJ's, M38's, ETC had a extra piece of metal that helped support the Clutch/brake pivot bracket.  Since I removed the inside support plate and  the welded pivot bracket "early 2A's" I chose to create a frame stiffener. 


positioned the Stiffener for fit--notice that I notched it so as to slip behind the old M/C mounting plate.

Another view...Not only will it slide behind the M/C mounting plate
it also extends 4" past the cross member bracket.


Showing the stiffener in place.  Will secure it with a few bolts.  This should work
as well as the original.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeepsterjim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Apr. 2019 at 9:32pm
Been working on the drivers side motor mount modification.
Also have replaced the 2a motor mount plate with a M38 plate. The M38 plate kicks the motor mount forward thus giving more room for a dual diaphram fuel pump.  I believe 3A's, 3B's had this style as well.

My want to install Saginaw steering is the reason to use a M38 plate. Will get into the steering conversion soon.  This is the same basic mod and conversion that "bkwudz/Paul" did.

M38 plate---notice motor mount ear faces forward. 
 

Had fun removing the old motor mount frame bracket.  Darn thing was riveted and then welded. Also removed the brake line bracket.


used  a piece of 1 3/4" square tubing to make up the base of the new motor mount.





Still need to make up the other half of the new motor mount bracket that will bolt to the M38 plate.  A lot to do yet!



Edited by jeepsterjim - 05 Apr. 2019 at 9:41pm
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