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MY '47 CJ-2A

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jeepsterjim View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeepsterjim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 June 2019 at 4:08am
OK, I picked up the late salad L-134 motor for future rebuild but I came across other parts that I simply could not refuse to get. 

Parts came out of a 1974 CJ-5 with  304 V-8.  Owner gutted most of the drive train for rock crawling upgrades. He did keep the 304 block.

All 4 - CJ-5 springs, 304 V-8 fan, air cleaner, and intake




Rear hitch, 1/4 panels, 3 of 4 11" drums, tow bar.


exhaust manifolds, steering assembly, spring plates, and motorcraft carb




304 B/housing, T15 trans, D20 X-fer, oil canister, dash pad, and cam



Dana 44 centered rear diff
Dana 30 narrow track frt. diff



Main items I want to use are the steering assembly and the D 30 Frt. end.
Most parts will go on CL or trade for ?
Not a bad day.
Jim


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greaser007 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 July 2019 at 6:31pm
    OMG ! _ _ _ your Willys parts-prospecting has his Pay-Dirt. :)

   If you keep gathering you'll have to start piling-it-up. hahahaha

   So, now I am going to have to stop by my next trip to Sacramento. We'll have coffee while on "parts-tour" right !

   I have run a model 20 amc rear in 4:10 forever with the 304 and T-18 6.3:1 with no problems what-so-ever. (before hitting the Rubicon trail, I would put a 3/4 breaker bar with 36-inch cheater pipe and give it a few Bounces for tightness, me standing on the cheater). :)

   Hey, bring that bellhousing up to me and I will weld it, or braze it.
Or did you weld it already ?

   When talking to my dad the other day, age 91, same as Norm the engine builder at Jimmy Strauss Jeeps, and we were talking welding Cast Iron, he told me that of all the mech's in town that he knew had good success welding cast was that they used a Cast-Rod. no flux, just bare cast rod. Just like the old trick of using 2-12v batteries and a coat-hanger.   yep
   I have a YouTube video bookmarked where the guy broke the flux off of 7018 rod and welded cast iron successfully.

   Jim, nice work there guy on your innovative motor mount to be able to access the fuel pump bolts. I looked at my '46 pump bolts and because of the mount lip facing to the rear, the mount-bolt sticks up in the way of Access.

   What time is Coffee !

    Len
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeepsterjim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 July 2019 at 7:57pm
Len

Coffee is brewing! Can you smell it? it's the axle/gear oil blend.

PLEASE do come by, lunch on me!  We can tell stories, LOL

I did find a lot of jeep parts. Some for the 2A and the rest for trade or sell.  Nice part is I have stuff to sift through for the "MONEY" pit.  

I found two other late style bell housings so the cracked one can remain crackedLOL or trade.

Motor mount idea came from bkwudz, Paul F. It should work well.

My summer goal is to find all the big parts for the 2A and get them built and ready to install this fall.
 
Jim








Edited by jeepsterjim - 04 July 2019 at 7:13am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeepsterjim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 July 2019 at 10:05pm
Meet a Jeepster Commando Pick Up  guy awhile ago and we ended up telling stories which led to finding out he has a nice M38 that will be getting a V-6 stuffed in it. He mentioned that someone installed a F head in it with an odd carb set up that he removed and went back to the stock carb which led to having to put a hood scoop on.

I figured the ODD carb would of been a Holley 190???? and I would be glad to trade Commando parts for it.   

Here is what he brought me.


CARTER SIDE DRAFT YH CARB POSSIBLY FROM A EARLY CORVETTE.









This is the Carter side draft carb and 90 degree elbow mod that's used on the F head when installed in a flat fender/hood Jeep.  Never seen one before.  Not sure if I will use it but it's cool to place on the shelf.



Edited by jeepsterjim - 12 July 2019 at 12:19am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ol' Unreliable Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 July 2019 at 4:36am
I would use that just for the uncommon-ness of it!  Thumbs Up
There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeepsterjim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 July 2019 at 5:48am
Originally posted by Ol' Unreliable Ol' Unreliable wrote:

I would use that just for the uncommon-ness of it!  Thumbs Up

I agree.   Honestly thought the guy was bringing me a Holley 190?  Think I will talk with Scout Pilot and see what it might take to rebuild it and maybe tweak it some.  If not, it's certainly a conversation piece. 
The adapter looks well made.  Wonder if it was used on another set up.

Jim
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeepsterjim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Nov. 2019 at 4:41am
Time to come back to my project page and make use of it.

I have cleaned up the 2nd Dana-44 19 spline off set diff and it looks good for building up.
I still need to tear down the Power Lok for inspection. All in due time.

All the bearings are worn and need replacing. Along with the seals.
QUESTION:
Want to purchase quality bearings and seals, such as USA made Timken bearings.  Who has them?  You maybe?
This diff needs ALL bearings and seals.

THANKS, JIM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greaser007 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Nov. 2019 at 7:22pm
Jim,
   I like your build-thread and all those new "parts-finds" you've acquired.
Well, you certainly do have ScoutPilot fired-up with that Carter YH side-draft.
   
   You let me leave last month after lunch without the draw-bar. :(
But, i will be down your way again to visit the boys.
   I will get some more Cast Iron welding practice because i took my GPW engine block to the machinist for hot tanking and inspection.   OMG, not only does it have a crack above the distributor hole, but also a 5-inch long crack below the distributor hole also. He said they normally crack below.
   You are so lucky to live where you do, and have a ready-supply of used jeep parts always coming up for sale within a 50-mile radius. (Rubicon Country) yep.

   I will be by again, and hope to see you before the snow flies !!

    Len
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeepsterjim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Nov. 2019 at 12:39am
Len

I bet that Jeep parts guy out in pestketona????   has a block or two.  Saw a parts GPW  for sale in Cottonwood last week. 

Did you want that draw bar?  I forgot that you didEmbarrassed Will save it for ya.  Draw bar=lunchLOLLOL

Spent the day with Grand daughters pulling out my fiberglass jeepster commando molds----time to part with'umCry
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FOUND SOME MORE JUNK, I MEAN FANTASTIC ARTIFACTS THAT THE  JEEP GODS SAID I HAD TO HAVE.Wink
I NEED TO STOP COLLECTING AND GET REBUILDING!!! JUST CAN'T HELP MYSELF. WHAT A TERRIBLE DISEASEConfusedStern Smile

'71 CJ-5 DANA 44 OFF SET FLANGED DIFF



NOT SURE----IS THIS A TRU LOK?  OR IS IT TRAC LOK?  OR????   LOOKS VERY CLEAN INSIDE BUT WILL NEED TO CHANGE R&P OUT TO 5:38'S.

 WENT INTERNET SEARCHING AND IS THIS LOKCER A D44 30 SPLINE POWER LOK?  FOUNDS PICS THAT SEEM A CLOSE MATCH.



GOT 5 WHEELS----THINK THEIR STOCK '71 CJ5 JEEP 15 X 6 X 5.5 STEEL WHEELS. SHOULD WORK WELL WITH A 750X15 NDT TIRE.....OPINIONS????



LAST THING, PICKED UP A PAIR OF '71 CJ5 FENDERS THAT WILL BE USED TO REMAKE FIBERGLASS INNER FENDER WELL MOLDS FOR JEEPSTER COMMANDOS,  SOMEONE STOLE THE ONES I HADAngry


THE GUY HAS A D27, D18, AND A ? TRANS THAT MUST GO.  HOPE THE JEEP GODS WILL LEAVE ME ALONE!!!!!



Edited by jeepsterjim - 15 Feb. 2020 at 8:32am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeepsterjim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Feb. 2020 at 3:33am
Picked up a D-18 X-fer, late model, and noticed it has a hole in the top of it. Is this normal for a late      X-fer?  The hole goes all the way into the case.   This X-fer comes out of a '71 CJ-5





X-fer appears to  be a big mouth case....here are the numbers I found on it.











Edited by jeepsterjim - 23 Feb. 2020 at 3:38am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Feb. 2020 at 4:10am
Would that be where the vent goes? I have a mid 60's Transfercase and it has a big vent unit on the top.

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1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeepsterjim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Feb. 2020 at 4:30am
Originally posted by Mark W. Mark W. wrote:

Would that be where the vent goes? I have a mid 60's Transfercase and it has a big vent unit on the top.


It has a vent on the top right side. You can see it in this pic.




Edited by jeepsterjim - 23 Feb. 2020 at 4:33am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeepsterjim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Mar. 2020 at 2:40am

Instead of buying more parts, I worked on the 2A today and it felt good!   My goal is to remove the body from the frame and give it a through steam cleaning, inspection, repair, and paint.  The frame will go through the same process.   For ease of body removal, I removed the Trans shifter and cover and found water  had gotten into the case. Very disappointing!  This 2A has spent 99% of its life garaged.  Went ahead and drained the trans and X-fer which also had water in itAngry 

SEE PICS




notice the safety wire on the X-fer shift levers rod set screw.  


Well I was going to make a trans cover out of a cereal box to keep debris out but it's a little late for that so I will let it remain open and dry out.

The second project was to remove the X-fer shifters and rod.  This will also help in removing/installing the body.   Decided to drill a hole in the trans tunnel so as to remove/install the X-fer shift rod easier and then will use a M38 cover plate to cover it.   



well that's it for today.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeepsterjim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 June 2020 at 2:10am
Been working on stripping the frame down to bare metal and look closely for cracks, bad welds, ETC.

In the near future I will show a few pics of what was discovered but for now I'm focusing on the worn out and broken shackle brackets and badly 

grooved  pivot brackets.

Here are some pics of what's going on.

Found 4 NOS shackles to replace the broken or worn shackles.


Found 4 USA made pivot brackets to replace the gouged/grooved original pivot brackets



Got one off,  took sometime figuring out just "HOW" to remove the bracket without tearing up the frame.  The other 7 will go much faster.



Cleans up well using a wire wheel and a grinding disc.  




Just about ready to put the new Frt. shackle brackets on.


While cleaning the frame, my pneumatic  90 degree grinder died.  Bought a AIRCAT  and it is twice a powerful as the old one.  Very pleased with it. 


QUESTION:
Since I had to drill out the rivets that held the brackets on to the frame, I found the holes are neither 3/8 nor 7/16.  The hole is just shy of 7/16
What did some of you do?     
use rivets?   
drill out to 7/16? 
Grade 5 or 8 bolts.   

Once bolted on, I will weld the brackets a little better then the factory chicken track welds.


Jim
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeepsterjim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 June 2020 at 4:00am

Did more dissecting of the frame. No more worn out or broken spring hanger brackets.  









Have about 3 days of cleaning of the frame left  and then comes installing the new hangers and welding areas that need  it.

Found that the rivets and the rivet holes were 13/32 which is darn near 7/16 so I'm simply going to resize all frame and bracket holes to 7/16.  Will use grade 8 fine thread bolts and once the brackets are snug I will weld them up. Still have to straighten out the rear cross member  and a few other things before applying paint.   
Slow progress but it's progress.



Edited by jeepsterjim - 17 June 2020 at 4:16am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steelyard Blues Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 June 2020 at 12:02am
One of the vendors was selling a "rivet" kit. It was threaded and had a special nut that broke off when torqued down leaving the look of an original rivet. I looked all over for you. I know I saw it. I just cannot recall where.
Maybe someone else on the list recalls who sells them.
 
Micah
 
 
EDIT
I found an eBay listing:
 
 


Edited by Steelyard Blues - 18 June 2020 at 12:10am
1947 CJ2A 106327, Engine J109205, Tub 97077. Luzon Red

https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/steelyard-blues_topic41024_post397981.html?KW=micah+movie#397981

1965 Johnson Furnace Company M416 #6-1577
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeepsterjim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 June 2020 at 12:41am
Micah
Thanks for looking into the replacement  rivets.  Thumbs Up

I saw the rivet kit but am leary of it for some reason. Since I'm not into a true restro  I'm  simply using standard grade 8 fine thread nuts and bolts and also weld the bracket sides to the frame.  

Again, thanks for looking into the rivets!!!!


Jim
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