Need help with brakes |
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SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A
Member Sponsor Member x 3 Joined: 22 Jan. 2016 Location: S.E. Kansas Status: Offline Points: 3191 |
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You are going to have to use a press to get the old cone off. It would always be safer to use a press to put the new cone back on the axle to avoid damage to the new cone.
I have seen cases where someone used a cutting torch to remove the old cone but invariably they cut into the axle shaft. Don't do this. |
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46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red" (bought April 1969)(second owner)(12 V, 11" brakes, M-38 frame, MD Juan tub)
U.S. Coast Guard Chief Petty Officer(ret.) U.S. Army Vietnam veteran and damned proud of it. |
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Oldpappy
Member Joined: 09 Apr. 2018 Location: Tennessee Status: Offline Points: 4908 |
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I don't see how it could. It doesn't cost much to have them done at a machine shop or garage with a press, and it is not a good idea to go beating on them.
When you reinstall these you have to set the axle end play to within specs. If you kept up with the shims that will give you a starting point, but with new bearings you may need more or less shims. Shim packs are cheap. Watch "Metalshapers" video about setting the rear axle end play until you understand it. If you don't get it right you will have problems down the road. If the bearings are too tight they will heat up melt the seals, loose the grease and fail. If they are too loose they will last a little longer before they get hammered. Do it right and you probably will never have to go back into it.
Edited by Oldpappy - 29 Aug. 2021 at 1:03pm |
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If you can't get there in a Jeep you don't need to be there!
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Bruce W
Member Joined: 29 July 2005 Location: Northeast Colorado Status: Offline Points: 9651 |
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If (WHEN) you have a shop press the new bearing on, make sure they put the cup(race) on the axle before the bearing is pressed on, and that the cone (bearing) goes on facing the right way. Like a few other things on our beloved jeeps, they are backwards compared to other vehicles.
BW Edit to add: WRONG! I was thinking the bearing was pressed on from the long end like most others. It’s not. It goes on the short end, outside the locating ring. I must have been thinking of the flanged-axle 44. BW
Edited by Bruce W - 29 Aug. 2021 at 4:43pm |
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It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.
Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You! We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep. |
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Oldpappy
Member Joined: 09 Apr. 2018 Location: Tennessee Status: Offline Points: 4908 |
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You sure about that race Bruce?
Also, replace the missing grease zerk fitting and make sure the vent is cleared. This allows you to repack the bearings with a grease gun.
Edited by Oldpappy - 29 Aug. 2021 at 3:06pm |
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If you can't get there in a Jeep you don't need to be there!
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Bruce W
Member Joined: 29 July 2005 Location: Northeast Colorado Status: Offline Points: 9651 |
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No. Well, I am sure now. I’m sure I was wrong. I was thinking that the bearing was pressed on from the long end. Like most other vehicles. It’s a good thing you guys are keeping an eye on me. That’s the second time I’ve been wrong. The other time was one time when I thought I was wrong, but I wasn’t. BW
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It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.
Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You! We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep. |
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Adventure Van
Member Joined: 12 Aug. 2021 Location: AZ Status: Offline Points: 95 |
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Another point of the metalshaper video, is that he references twice at 0:27 and 3:55 "tapping" in the inner axle seal, bearing and cup. It is my understanding from the video that these items are essentially being pressed in during the installation process and not on a shop press. Are both methods acceptable practice? Edit: Bruce I missed your reply regarding the bearing being nondirectional. Thanks. Still wondering about "tapping" vs pressing on the seal, cup and bearing.
Edited by Adventure Van - 29 Aug. 2021 at 4:48pm |
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Bruce W
Member Joined: 29 July 2005 Location: Northeast Colorado Status: Offline Points: 9651 |
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What metalshaper is talking about is tapping the cup (race) into the housing. The cone (bearing) has to be pressed onto the axle shaft. Lots of bearings have been driven on over the years, but “tapping” is not going to get it.
The small end of the cone must be facing out (towards you), and of course the open or large side of the cup must face the cone. BW
Edited by Bruce W - 29 Aug. 2021 at 5:03pm |
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It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.
Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You! We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep. |
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Mark W.
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7986 |
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Bruce while I have very little experience with Tapered shaft type rear axles I was thinking it might be better to use "Towards differential " or "Away From differential" to describe the direction the cone or bearing is to be pointed. When I read your post I had to stop and thing about how you were intending the bearing to be pointed. Saying facing out is confusing. Granted looking at a Parts drawing make it very clear.
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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Bruce W
Member Joined: 29 July 2005 Location: Northeast Colorado Status: Offline Points: 9651 |
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You can only simplify things so much, then the effort is wasted. “Facing out” should be simple enough. It ALWAYS means away from the middle.
BW
Edited by Bruce W - 29 Aug. 2021 at 7:22pm |
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It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.
Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You! We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep. |
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Adventure Van
Member Joined: 12 Aug. 2021 Location: AZ Status: Offline Points: 95 |
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Thanks again everyone for all of the help. I'm ready to start ordering the rest of my parts. I'm finding quite a few parts on rockauto.com at much better prices than some of the regular suppliers that have been suggested. I'm talking wheel cylinders, brake shoes, bearings, seals, brake hoses... Any particular brands to stay away from? Any experience, good, or bad with Rock Auto's parts?
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SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A
Member Sponsor Member x 3 Joined: 22 Jan. 2016 Location: S.E. Kansas Status: Offline Points: 3191 |
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Rock Auto is okay, but don't count on very much coverage. Also, Walck's offers free freight on orders over a certain amount ($150, I think) so if you buy a lot from Rock Auto it might be enough to cut you out of the freight discount at Walck's that you can't get at Rock Auto. But...if you save that much on price differences it might not matter to you.
Personally, I like to trade with the little guy that if you have questions about something, they know the answers. That fits Walck's to a T...not so much Rock Auto...good luck finding a person to talk to. If the little guy doesn't get enough business his way, that resource is soon gone forever. Rock Auto could care less if you do business with them; if you don't, someone else will. Something to think about... Edited by SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A - 29 Aug. 2021 at 10:06pm |
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46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red" (bought April 1969)(second owner)(12 V, 11" brakes, M-38 frame, MD Juan tub)
U.S. Coast Guard Chief Petty Officer(ret.) U.S. Army Vietnam veteran and damned proud of it. |
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Adventure Van
Member Joined: 12 Aug. 2021 Location: AZ Status: Offline Points: 95 |
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Rus Curtis
Member Joined: 25 Mar. 2010 Location: Alabama Status: Offline Points: 1733 |
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I've done this on multiple orders in the past. Walck's was always up near the top.
Only a few times did I need to order elsewhere when Walck's didn't have a part I needed.
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Rus Curtis
Alabama 1954 CJ3B Bantam T3-C |
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Adventure Van
Member Joined: 12 Aug. 2021 Location: AZ Status: Offline Points: 95 |
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Here is my brake and bearing job price comparison worksheet. I am comparing Kaiser Willys, to Walks and Rock Auto. I have considered tax and shipping and highlighted in yellow, the lowest priced item. These prices include any available discount. I was only able to find a 10% discount code for KW. When I compared the lowest priced RA prices to the next closest price, I found that on those RA items, I can save $56.36. After shipping and tax, this savings is reduced to $20.81. This of course, is subject to the RA part numbers being correct for my application. When comparing KW to Walks, KW is $18.02 less. If I ordered the RA items that were least expensive and ordered the rest from KW, the total cost of the parts for this job would be about $468.93. I know that quite a few people here really like Walks. Is it worth the extra $18.02 to go with Walks? Comments? Also, am I overlooking any obvious parts?
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drm101
Member Joined: 12 Dec. 2012 Location: Clarkston, MI Status: Offline Points: 1470 |
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I like Walck's because there have been a few times when I ordered parts from them and the owner actually picked up the phone and called me and asked if it was really what I wanted. Who calls anyone these days?
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Dean
'47 CJ2A "Ron" '66 CJ5 "Buckie" The less the Power the More the Force |
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dasvis
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 07 Sep. 2019 Location: Salem, Oregon Status: Offline Points: 1547 |
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OMIX-ADA
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1947 CJ2A #88659 "Rat Patrol"
1953 CJ3A #453-GB1 11266 "Black Beauty" 1964 Thunderbird convertible ..... & one of them moves under it's own power!! |
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Oldpappy
Member Joined: 09 Apr. 2018 Location: Tennessee Status: Offline Points: 4908 |
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A plaque my father had on his desk said "Quality is like buying oats. If you want good clean fresh oats expect to pay a fair price, but if you will settle for oats that have already been through a horse they come cheaper"
A few pages back you provided an example of what you can expect with KW when they sold you the wrong wheel studs, and gave less than a suitable response when you contacted them about it. Rock Auto is a large auto parts distributor and often offers parts at a better price. I have bought many things from them, but they are not Jeep experts, which is why I prefer to buy Jeep specific parts from Jeep specific suppliers like Walcks, because if you call them you will get a knowledgeable response, and help when you need it. It is your $18, so it is your decision. Quality usually costs more, but higher price doesn't always mean higher quality, and lower price doesn't always mean lower quality. One of the biggest suppliers of Jeep parts is OMIX-ADA which is mostly Asian imports of unknown, or varying quality. Some of it is fine, some of it is pure junk that will not fit, or will not last, and some of it is dangerous, but it often costs less.
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If you can't get there in a Jeep you don't need to be there!
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SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A
Member Sponsor Member x 3 Joined: 22 Jan. 2016 Location: S.E. Kansas Status: Offline Points: 3191 |
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As Old Pappy said: "It is your $18, so it is your decision."
In the repair of a 70+ year old piece of equipment which may or may not have been repaired by "Bubba" before you acquired it, $18 is nothing. I would assume that you want to put it back right when working on the brakes, for example. $18 is nothing. You want quality parts for a brake job. "Sunsong" brake hoses sound like something coming from Asia and the price is a clue. Would you want something that comes from overseas of questionable quality that you depend on to get your jeep stopped when you want it stopped? I'm betting that you do. But is is your $18... ...and by the way, It's spelled "Walck's" not "Walk's". |
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46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red" (bought April 1969)(second owner)(12 V, 11" brakes, M-38 frame, MD Juan tub)
U.S. Coast Guard Chief Petty Officer(ret.) U.S. Army Vietnam veteran and damned proud of it. |
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