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Mike F
Member Joined: 12 Aug. 2018 Location: Longview wa Status: Offline Points: 684 |
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Got the sealing surfaces cleaned up so they have a chance of sealing up. Had to drill out the one stud after I broke it. Let it set quite a long time with the freeze out on it. Was even able to fill the hole at the end of the the stud up inside the exhaust. It broke anyway. No luck on distributor parts today Maybe Kurt’s on vacation
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Mike F
Member Joined: 12 Aug. 2018 Location: Longview wa Status: Offline Points: 684 |
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Heard Back from Kurt with Willy's distributors yesterday. I get that answering phones and Email all day leave little time to get anything else done. Parts are ordered.So last night I took the thing apart
when the parts get here I'll have a distributor that will work like its supposed to.
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mbullism
Member Sponsor Member x 4 Joined: 29 May 2015 Location: MA Status: Offline Points: 4760 |
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Looking good
I like the "polishing" the manifold surfaces together, 120 grit. Are you using a piece of plate glass, or granite countertop... or something more involved? (I sharpen broadheads down to 1200 grit on a granite countertop... wife thinks I'm nuts . She may be right ... wait til I drag a manifold set into her kitchen )
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Those who do not learn from history are doomed to repeat it... Welcome to 1930's Germany
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Mike F
Member Joined: 12 Aug. 2018 Location: Longview wa Status: Offline Points: 684 |
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I use a granite surface plate. Available from Grizzly. Flat to 0.0002 they say. I doubt you get that when you stick a sheet of 120 grit on it with double sided tape but it works. I normally use it to sharpen woodworking tools to 4000 grit. Flattens the back of a big chisel to where it can be used as a mirror.
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mbullism
Member Sponsor Member x 4 Joined: 29 May 2015 Location: MA Status: Offline Points: 4760 |
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I'm pretty sure my granite countertop IS 4000 grit ...Nice!
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Those who do not learn from history are doomed to repeat it... Welcome to 1930's Germany
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Mike F
Member Joined: 12 Aug. 2018 Location: Longview wa Status: Offline Points: 684 |
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Auto-lite IAD in pieces. Laid out kinda lite it goes together. Talked to Kurt with Willy’s Distributor today. Parts went out yesterday so maybe tomorrow.
get a little paint on the body and put some new parts in she’s good as new.
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Mike F
Member Joined: 12 Aug. 2018 Location: Longview wa Status: Offline Points: 684 |
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Still waiting for distributor parts. Last evening I pulled the alternator and crank pull off the old motor. I then went on to put it on the new motor. Using the old mount it would not line up with the other pulleys. I took it apart thinking I had gotten something wrong. But there was only one way it would go together.
I didn’t really think much of the way it was done anyway. So, today I built another one. Did a little google search and a little plagerism and I have a plan. And some materials 3 hours later and I have a new alternator mount Worked alright if I were to do it again I’d find some 3/16 wall tube. Stuff I had was just under 1/8. It could stand to be a little stiffer. I got bad news on the radiator. Cores rotten. So much for cleaning it out and putting it back in. They can put a core in it and have it ready to go Wednesday. I think I have everything done I can so new motor goes in tomorrow. Any words of wisdom. I took the old out with the bell housing on it. Who woulda thought they had a spring hooked to the transmission.
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Ol' Unreliable
Member Joined: 25 Sep. 2016 Location: CO Springs CO Status: Offline Points: 4226 |
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Proper engineering can make it stiffer without thicker steel. Gusseting the inverted-L section will help a lot. Put one under the U-shape and one between the two bolts. Had you made the U-shape wider, you could gusset that too.
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There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
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Mike F
Member Joined: 12 Aug. 2018 Location: Longview wa Status: Offline Points: 684 |
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I’m with you on the engineering. We’ll see how it does when the engine is turning it. Seems a waste of all those hours in a classroom not to do some calculations. But that’s what I’m doing. Main objective here is to give the belt a chance. They don’t like running in sheaves that aren’t somewhat in line.
Went down the road and checked the mail. USPS dropped off some distributor love from Kurt at Willy’s distributors. Spent the last couple hours putting it back together. Started with riveting the new data plate on the body. Then I pressed the new bearings in. I used a 3/8 bolt and a couple heavy washers. Then used one Of the old bearings to push the top bearing down like it was when I took it apart. Then I oiled up the shaft and put it in. It would have been easier to put the advance weights and springs together before I put the shaft in. I guess I just like a challenge. Then I put the anti rattle spring on the bottom of the cam plate. It went in the came the most difficult part of all. Putting in that little retainer spring for the cam plate. Took a while but I got it. After all that it got a NOS ground stud assembly and finally the points plate. Bearings going in Don’t forget to drill the hole for the Oiler. I put a dowel in in place of the shaft and used a brad point bit. The drill a cleaner hole. Less likely to push the last of the wall in. New vs old springs. Distributor is nice and tight now. Connections have been debubba’d. Should work a whole lot better. |
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Ol' Unreliable
Member Joined: 25 Sep. 2016 Location: CO Springs CO Status: Offline Points: 4226 |
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I hear ya.
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There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
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shadow
Member Joined: 08 Nov. 2015 Location: Maple Ridge B.C Status: Offline Points: 626 |
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all that work will pay off with a really good running engine
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lets go for a rip eh bud
Andy |
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Mike F
Member Joined: 12 Aug. 2018 Location: Longview wa Status: Offline Points: 684 |
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Got the engine sitting in the frame lower bolts are in and then Family showed up. had to quit working and go be social. when I get back to it I have to put the upper bell housing bolts in. right one looks easy. The left not so much. I have until Wednesday when I get the newly cored radiator back to figure it out.
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Mike F
Member Joined: 12 Aug. 2018 Location: Longview wa Status: Offline Points: 684 |
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Well Wednesday turned into Thursday but no matter. I had knocked the clutch fork off when I set the motor in. Took a while to figure out how to get that back in. More about it on the tech page. And it started back to raining again on Wednesday. My plan of beating the rain didn’t work out. So I have a pop-up over the Jeep trying to keep it somewhat dry. If all goes well I will post a video of it running tomorrow. If things just work out then it will be Sunday. Here’s the old motor and new radiator.
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Mike F
Member Joined: 12 Aug. 2018 Location: Longview wa Status: Offline Points: 684 |
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I pulled the head off the old one. It’s pretty tired looking pistons are 40 over valves are pretty thin. The exhaust valve that’s up is sloppy in the guide. There’s not much ridge on the two cylinders I can see. A little scored though. We’ll see how this budget rebuild turns out. Before I deside what to do with this one.
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Mike F
Member Joined: 12 Aug. 2018 Location: Longview wa Status: Offline Points: 684 |
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Sorry no pictures,
Spent the morning Sunday laying in water putting the new exhaust in. Last chore to get done in getting ready to start the new motor up. I got everything laid out and waited for a clearing in the rain. dove under the jeep for a 30 minute job of bolting it all up. And none of the clamps would fit the larger pipe in front of the muffler. So, by the time I got back with parts that would fit the rain had settled in. most of me was under the jeep so only the bottom half got wet. Good news is the new engine is in and running good. Wouldn't start until I went back over things and goggled counter clockwise. As soon as I corrected this little mistake it fired right up. Got it warmed up to where it would idle. checked the temp gauge and its 180. stepped out and see that I have steam coming off the rear exhaust manifold bolt. Initially I thought it was dripping off the cowl gutter. Its not. reached in to shut it down and the temps up to 200. Turns out I'm not 100% on sealing bolts. I have 2 maybe 3 that are leaking. as fate would have it they are all on the rear where you cant get to them. then I noticed that the factory plugs in the new water pump were leaking. and the radiator hose clamp I was putting on when the phone rang wasn't tight. Once I get all the leaks stopped up I can get to, It's raining really good the gutters are over flowing and its getting dark. When I get back to it and can run it at idle I'll set the idle, timing, and idle air. And, post a video. MDF
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Stev
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 27 July 2016 Location: Cincinnati Status: Offline Points: 2383 |
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Mike,
Just found your thread. Very cool that you painted the Kaiser Supersonic blue like they came in the Henry J ! Hot Rod Willys Jeep! Are you going to run the YF Carb? I was looking at you photos and trying to see the top side of the intake manifold. I picked up a a Supersonic that still has the front plate from the Herny J car a few weeks ago. It has a YF carb and a vacuum advance distributor. Stev
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Stev
1946 CJ2A Trail Jeep (The Saint), 1948 CJ2A Lefty Restored |
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Mike F
Member Joined: 12 Aug. 2018 Location: Longview wa Status: Offline Points: 684 |
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This one came without the supersonic head or manifold. Had a Willy’s head that has been milled and I think a solex carb. I looked for a head for quite a while. They are rare but they show up from time to time.
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Stev
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 27 July 2016 Location: Cincinnati Status: Offline Points: 2383 |
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The Solex carb I don't know much about. The WO carb is set up so you can climb hills - the float is designed so it will still work while climbing. The YF might need to be reoriented perhaps 90 degrees so its float will work in a hill climb on the Henry J intake on the Supersonic - I could be wrong about that. Need to study the YF some.
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Stev
1946 CJ2A Trail Jeep (The Saint), 1948 CJ2A Lefty Restored |
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