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New member - 1947 CJ2A "Rat patrol" |
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dasvis 
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Joined: 06 Sep. 2019 Location: Salem, Oregon Status: Offline Points: 85 |
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 Posted: 09 Nov. 2019 at 10:56pm |
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Well, I decided that I'm going to pull the head. Kind of want to see what condition the valve seats are anyway & am curious as to what size pistons this thing has in it.
Also, I have an OEM oil filter setup on the way & hopefully an air cleaner tube. Need to pull the bolts out & replace them with studs to install these items. Actually, compared to the transmission & transfer case, the engine looks pretty clean!  Head came off w/o any issues. #'s 1 & 2 looking good, #3?, & #4 stuck exhaust valve. May pull the manifolds off to get better access, would like to check the valve stems & guides on 3 & 4.  Surprise! Pistons are standard & bores look pretty good. Minimal ridge at top of cylinder, no scoring. No bore micrometer, so I can't check taper. Happy to have a lot of material to work with if I need it down the road.  Appears that the block has been decked .020", that explains the faint serial #'s  Head has been shaved .015" - that makes .035" total - what's the limit?  Gasket top  Gasket bottom. Looked pretty normal to be, no obvious signs of leakage. Getting head cleaned & checked for cracks and flatness. In the past, I have used dead soft copper head shims from Felpro to make up the difference when head & or blocks have been milled. I don't see where Felpro makes a shim for this engine. Is a thicker head gasket offered by anyone? -- Or should I even worry about it. Edited by dasvis - 10 Nov. 2019 at 8:26pm |
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1947 CJ2A #88659 "Rat Patrol"
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dasvis
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Joined: 06 Sep. 2019 Location: Salem, Oregon Status: Offline Points: 85 |
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Posted: 11 Nov. 2019 at 8:07pm |
YOu guys are right, SO MUCH easier w/o the fender on there. Think I'm going to pull the intake & exh manifolds to get better access to the valves.
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1947 CJ2A #88659 "Rat Patrol"
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jeeper50
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Sponsor Member Joined: 01 Mar. 2008 Location: Georgia Status: Offline Points: 1786 |
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Posted: 12 Nov. 2019 at 8:32am |
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Just watch those studs, if the front and back bolts are removed be sure to use permatex nbr 2 on them cause they penetrate the water jacket
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'53 Cj3B 4 cyl D25/D44 lockrights,11" brakes, Belleview ol skool winch.
Texan at heart,GA by paycheck |
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smfulle
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Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Ogden, Utah Status: Offline Points: 4938 |
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Posted: 12 Nov. 2019 at 9:49am |
Mike, i don't know if you even "ned to worry about it" but I have used the copper head gasket that Walcks sells with good luck. |
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athawk11
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Joined: 17 Jan. 2012 Location: Arvada,Colorado Status: Offline Points: 3510 |
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Posted: 12 Nov. 2019 at 10:43am |
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Very cool 2A!
Some folks here have been known to purposely shave heads and decks to increase engine compression.
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1- 1946 CJ2A
2- 1949 CJ3A |
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smfulle
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Posted: 12 Nov. 2019 at 10:56am |
Not sure how looking like this would increase engine compression.  Sorry .... a little. |
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dasvis
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Joined: 06 Sep. 2019 Location: Salem, Oregon Status: Offline Points: 85 |
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Posted: 14 Nov. 2019 at 9:14pm |
Well, I managed to remove all of the stud nuts on the manifolds W/O breaking any off. 3 days of PB blaster soaking did the trick. ---- BUT --- the manifold won't side off. It appears that the left outer stud is bent to the left & it's hanging up on the thru-hole. Tried tapping on it with a dead blow hammer, wiggling, swearing, & nothing worked. I'm wondering if I cut the top of the stud off even with the manifold that might let it clear enough to allow it to come off. Any other ideas? Perhaps grind off the outer edge of the manifold?   |
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1947 CJ2A #88659 "Rat Patrol"
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jeepsterjim
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Joined: 12 July 2011 Location: lincoln, ca Status: Offline Points: 632 |
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Posted: 14 Nov. 2019 at 10:00pm |
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maybe try heating up bent stud and hammer it straight? can you remove the stud?
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Jim
CJ-2A - 81299 |
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Bruce W
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Joined: 29 July 2005 Location: Northeast Colorado Status: Offline Points: 6031 |
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Posted: 14 Nov. 2019 at 11:33pm |
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I was going to suggest something similar, but without the heat. I would suggest putting a nut loosely on the stud to protect the threads, but it looks like it’s too late for that. BW
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Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You!
We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep. |
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dasvis
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Joined: 06 Sep. 2019 Location: Salem, Oregon Status: Offline Points: 85 |
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Posted: 14 Nov. 2019 at 11:33pm |
I thought about hammering on it but thought I might crack something. I gave a half hearted effort with vise grips to remove the stud, but it kept slipping. Perhaps I need to get a new pair with sharper teeth to give it some bite. It is really on there.
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1947 CJ2A #88659 "Rat Patrol"
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dasvis
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Joined: 06 Sep. 2019 Location: Salem, Oregon Status: Offline Points: 85 |
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Posted: 14 Nov. 2019 at 11:37pm |
I was planning on replacing all of the studs anyway. The rear one next to the firewall is party broken off even with the manifold.
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1947 CJ2A #88659 "Rat Patrol"
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dasvis
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Joined: 06 Sep. 2019 Location: Salem, Oregon Status: Offline Points: 85 |
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Posted: 17 Nov. 2019 at 9:37pm |
Well, got the manifold off. Heated the stud up red hot with my MAPP gas torch & hammered it straight as suggested. A little wiggling & it pulled off.  Here's the block with all studs intact (middle one came out with nut). All of the studs came out easily, which boosted my confidence that the partially broken off one in back would too.....  My joy was short lived however, as the remnant of the rear stud snapped off. Dammit, I KNEW better too. Should have heated it up & soaked with PB Blaster for a few days before attempting removal. Looks like the engine will be coming out after all. Was hoping to avoid this, it's supposed to be a low budget project. Not sure how far I want to go. If I pull the motor at minimum I should re-ring it, but as it's still standard bore. I'm quessing that the rings lands will be really worn & who knows how much taper there will be in the bore. On the plus side I will get much better access to pull the stuck distributor, & to address the original stuck exhaust valve in #4. Hell, might as well disassemble the whole damn thing I suppose. Would feel better actually KNOWING what condition everything is in. Where does the madness end? Note the SWEET hole that Bubba cut in the firewall to access the accel linkage that bolts to the block... Edited by dasvis - 17 Nov. 2019 at 9:40pm |
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1947 CJ2A #88659 "Rat Patrol"
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Mike F
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Joined: 12 Aug. 2018 Location: Longview wa Status: Offline Points: 656 |
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Posted: 17 Nov. 2019 at 11:22pm |
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Yeah that throttle linkage is tough to get at. Little less so if you take the motor mounts out and drop the front down.
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mbullism
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Posted: 18 Nov. 2019 at 7:10am |
Not sure I've ever seen it end  ...Everyone that I've ever seen fuss with a loose spark plug wire or a dent in a radiator cap all ended up pulling the engine and totally dismantling it  ETA: I personally wouldn't worry about shimming head gaskets, or thicker, or whatever unless you have the head planed. I have to believe the valve seats were recut when the block was decked, and that 0.020" taken out at the lifters (vs. valve stems). The Supersonic version of the L134 head was planed at the factory to bump the CR... A typical 6.48CR head will measure 2.1406"+/- thick, and the 7.0 (7.1?)CR supersonic head around 2.109, so roughly 0.030" difference, vs. your 0.015"- https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/going-supersonic-texas-version_topic27294.html <----clicky (see FBills post of 2/2/13...if memory serves, "ArmySailor" is Jim Allen)
Edited by mbullism - 18 Nov. 2019 at 7:36am |
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1946 CJ2A #69750 - "Plowshare"
Bantam T3-C #15849 2016 JK unlimited (Hers) 1969 Kaiser CJ5 (sold) Analog spoken here.... |
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smfulle
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Posted: 18 Nov. 2019 at 9:56am |
My rig has that hole in the firewall. I asked my uncle (original owner, at least in our family) what the deal was with that hole. He said that hole was the heater. Picked up heat off the manifold and dumped it on your knee. I covered it up with foil tape. I mostly wheel on hot days.
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dasvis
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Joined: 06 Sep. 2019 Location: Salem, Oregon Status: Offline Points: 85 |
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Posted: 24 Nov. 2019 at 7:11am |
Just a couple of small things to disconnect & engine is ready to come out. I plan on just removing the engine by itself. I understand that the two upper bellhousing bolts are difficult to access. Is removing the motor mounts to lower it a bit the best way to go about getting enough clearance to remove these bolts? Also, does the splash pan on the right side need to be removed? I gotta get busy clearing enough space in my garage for this thing, time is short for good weather......
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1947 CJ2A #88659 "Rat Patrol"
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Joe DeYoung
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Posted: 24 Nov. 2019 at 9:47am |
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Yes, remove motor mounts and lower front of engine to get better access to top bell housing bolts. It would be a good idea to remove splash pan so that it doesn't accidently get mangled.
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Joe DeYoung
to many jeeps, parts, and accessories to list here, but apparently enough to keep me in trouble with my wife. |
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RICKG
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Joined: 08 Jan. 2015 Location: so idaho Status: Offline Points: 1665 |
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Posted: 24 Nov. 2019 at 12:05pm |
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Ah Yes, the garage version of the "jeep wave". I think Mike's catching on..
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I never met a mule I didn't like!
MC51986 "OD MULE" DOD 01-52 Keep 'em Rollin' |
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dasvis wrote: