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dasvis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dasvis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Nov. 2019 at 10:56pm
Well, I decided that I'm going to pull the head. Kind of want to see what condition the valve seats are anyway & am curious as to what size pistons this thing has in it. 
 Also, I have an OEM oil filter setup on the way & hopefully an air cleaner tube. Need to pull the bolts out & replace them with studs to install these items.

  Actually, compared to the transmission & transfer case, the engine looks pretty clean!


 
Head came off w/o any issues. #'s 1 & 2 looking good, #3?, & #4 stuck exhaust valve. May pull the manifolds off to get better access, would like to check the valve stems & guides on 3 & 4.

 
Surprise! Pistons are standard & bores look pretty good. Minimal ridge at top of cylinder, no scoring.
 No bore micrometer, so I can't check taper. Happy to have a lot of material to work with if I need it down the road.



Appears that the block has been decked .020", that explains the faint serial #'s



Head has been shaved .015" - that makes .035" total - what's the limit?



Gasket top
 

Gasket bottom. Looked pretty normal to be, no obvious signs of leakage.
Getting head cleaned & checked for cracks and flatness. 
 In the past, I have used dead soft copper head shims from Felpro to make up the difference when head & or blocks have been milled. I don't see where Felpro makes a shim for this engine. Is a thicker head gasket offered by anyone? -- Or should I even worry about it.



 


Edited by dasvis - 10 Nov. 2019 at 8:26pm
1947 CJ2A #88659 "Rat Patrol"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dasvis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Nov. 2019 at 8:07pm

YOu guys are right, SO MUCH easier w/o the fender on there. Think I'm going to pull the intake & exh manifolds to get better access to the valves.
1947 CJ2A #88659 "Rat Patrol"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeeper50 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov. 2019 at 8:32am
Just watch those studs, if the front and back bolts are removed be sure to use permatex nbr 2 on them cause they penetrate the water jacket
'53 Cj3B 4 cyl D25/D44 lockrights,11" brakes, Belleview ol skool winch.


Texan at heart,GA by paycheck

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov. 2019 at 9:49am
Originally posted by dasvis dasvis wrote:

 In the past, I have used dead soft copper head shims from Felpro to make up the difference when head & or blocks have been milled. I don't see where Felpro makes a shim for this engine. Is a thicker head gasket offered by anyone? -- Or should I even worry about it.


Mike,
i don't know if you even "ned to worry about it" but I have used the copper head gasket that Walcks sells with good luck.



Stan
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote athawk11 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov. 2019 at 10:43am
Very cool 2A!

Some folks here have been known to purposely shave heads and decks to increase engine compression.
1- 1946 CJ2A   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov. 2019 at 10:56am
Originally posted by athawk11 athawk11 wrote:


Some folks here have been known to purposely shave heads ...  to increase engine compression.

Not sure how looking like this would increase engine compression.   Smile   Sorry .... a little.


Stan
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dasvis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Nov. 2019 at 9:14pm
Well, I managed to remove all of the stud nuts on the manifolds W/O breaking any off. 3 days of PB blaster soaking did the trick. ---- BUT --- the manifold won't side off.
 It appears that the left outer stud is bent to the left & it's hanging up on the thru-hole. Tried tapping on it with a dead blow hammer, wiggling, swearing, & nothing worked.
 I'm wondering if I cut the top of the stud off even with the manifold that might let it clear enough to allow it to come off.  Any other ideas?

 Perhaps grind off the outer edge of the manifold?




1947 CJ2A #88659 "Rat Patrol"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeepsterjim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Nov. 2019 at 10:00pm
maybe try heating up bent stud and hammer it straight?   can you remove the stud?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Nov. 2019 at 11:33pm
I was going to suggest something similar, but without the heat. I would suggest putting a nut loosely on the stud to protect the threads, but it looks like it’s too late for that. BW
Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dasvis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Nov. 2019 at 11:33pm
Originally posted by jeepsterjim jeepsterjim wrote:

maybe try heating up bent stud and hammer it straight?   can you remove the stud?

 I thought about hammering on it but thought I might crack something.

 I gave a half hearted effort with vise grips to remove the stud, but it kept slipping. Perhaps I need to get a new pair with sharper teeth to give it some bite. 

It is really on there. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dasvis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Nov. 2019 at 11:37pm
Originally posted by Bruce W Bruce W wrote:

I was going to suggest something similar, but without the heat. I would suggest putting a nut loosely on the stud to protect the threads, but it looks like it’s too late for that. BW

 I was planning on replacing all of the studs anyway. The rear one next to the firewall is party broken off even with the manifold.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dasvis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Nov. 2019 at 9:37pm

Well, got the manifold off. Heated the stud up red hot with my MAPP gas torch & hammered it straight as suggested. A little wiggling & it pulled off.



Here's the block with all studs intact (middle one came out with nut). All of the studs came out easily, which boosted my confidence that the partially broken off one in back would too.....




My joy was short lived however, as the remnant of the rear stud snapped off. Dammit, I KNEW better too. Should have heated it up & soaked with PB Blaster for a few days before attempting removal.

 Looks like the engine will be coming out after all. Was hoping to avoid this, it's supposed to be a low budget project.  Not sure how far I want to go. If I pull the motor at minimum I should re-ring it, but as it's still standard bore.  I'm quessing that the rings lands will be really worn & who knows how much taper there will be in the bore. 
  On the plus side I will get much better access to pull the stuck distributor, & to address the original stuck exhaust valve in #4. 
 Hell, might as well disassemble the whole damn thing I suppose. Would feel better actually KNOWING what condition everything is in. 

 Where does the madness end?
 
Note the SWEET hole that Bubba cut in the firewall to access the accel linkage that bolts to the block...



Edited by dasvis - 17 Nov. 2019 at 9:40pm
1947 CJ2A #88659 "Rat Patrol"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike F Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Nov. 2019 at 11:22pm
Yeah that throttle linkage is tough to get at. Little less so if you take the motor mounts out and drop the front down. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mbullism Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Nov. 2019 at 7:10am
Originally posted by dasvis dasvis wrote:

 Where does the madness end?

Not sure I've ever seen it end Wink  ...Everyone that I've ever seen fuss with a loose spark plug wire or a dent in a radiator cap all ended up pulling the engine and totally dismantling it LOL

ETA:  I personally wouldn't worry about shimming head gaskets, or thicker, or whatever unless you have the head planed.  I have to believe the valve seats were recut when the block was decked, and that 0.020" taken out at the lifters (vs. valve stems).  The Supersonic version of the L134 head was planed at the factory to bump the CR... A typical 6.48CR head will measure 2.1406"+/- thick, and the 7.0 (7.1?)CR supersonic head around 2.109, so roughly 0.030" difference, vs. your 0.015"-

https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/going-supersonic-texas-version_topic27294.html <----clicky (see FBills post of 2/2/13...if memory serves, "ArmySailor" is Jim Allen)


Edited by mbullism - 18 Nov. 2019 at 7:36am
1946 CJ2A #69750 - "Plowshare"
Bantam T3-C #15849
2016 JK unlimited (Hers)
1969 Kaiser CJ5 (sold)

Analog spoken here....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Nov. 2019 at 9:56am
Originally posted by dasvis dasvis wrote:




 
Note the SWEET hole that Bubba cut in the firewall to access the accel linkage that bolts to the block...


My rig has that hole in the firewall.
I asked my uncle (original owner, at least in our family) what the deal was with that hole.
He said that hole was the heater. Picked up heat off the manifold and dumped it on your knee. 
I covered it up with foil tape. I mostly wheel on hot days.
Stan
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dasvis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Nov. 2019 at 7:11am

Just a couple of small things to disconnect & engine is ready to come out. 
 I plan on just removing the engine by itself. I understand that the two upper bellhousing bolts are difficult to access. Is removing the motor mounts to lower it a bit the best way to go about getting enough clearance to remove these bolts? 
 Also, does the splash pan on the right side need to be removed?

 I gotta get busy clearing enough space in my garage for this thing, time is short for good weather......
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joe DeYoung Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Nov. 2019 at 9:47am
Yes, remove motor mounts and lower front of engine to get better access to top bell housing bolts. It would be a good idea to remove splash pan so that it doesn't accidently get mangled.
Joe DeYoung
to many jeeps, parts, and accessories to list here, but apparently enough to keep me in trouble with my wife.





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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RICKG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Nov. 2019 at 12:05pm
Ah Yes, the garage version of the "jeep wave". I think Mike's catching on..

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