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New Project - Tub Work, Can I Do It?

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tufcj2a View Drop Down
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    Posted: 28 May 2019 at 4:58am
Howdy All,

Well, apparently I got the bug.  Last April was browsing CL and found a '47 I couldn't pass up.  Spent the year restoring and learning a ton.  A couple of weeks ago I was bored and browsing CL again and there it was, another find.  So it got delivered today and I have to say, so far, so good.  The engine appears strong and the transmission may only need a flush, though he included a spare that looks immaculate, so either way I'm good.  I already built the wire harness, assuming correctly the electrical was shot.

The frame looks good and solid and matches the pictures so no worries there for the time being.  Thus, the "problem?"

I could tell from the picts the body was beat to hell.  No worries for me as I think it gives her some character.  But there are a  few spots that I think should be worked on and seem to be pretty simple fixes, even for a very amateur welder.

I don't think I'll touch the bed
I want to tackle the wheel wells though, based on feedback
I think I can patch the holes in the back of the bed where they messed with the taillights
The center console in the front is the real challenge.  What's ya'll opinion?
Same with the transmission port, any ideas or suggestions?

Open to whatever you have.  Here to learn and take advice.

Thanks all

-Thomas




















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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 64CJ5 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 May 2019 at 5:44am
It looks like you have a really good place to start.  You have experience so take it slow and ask lots of questions.  Above all post lots of pictures of your progress.

Tom 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rick G Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 May 2019 at 3:28pm
 Find an old metal sign, pop rivet or screw it over that hole for the PTO, get a seat and just DRIVE it!
BTW,  what’s that Willys  in front of the CJ? Is it a jeepster???  You definitely have the disease!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lhfarmbt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 May 2019 at 1:03pm
Any history on the Jeep?  Maybe had a PTO driven device instead of a passenger seat?  Don't see any pulleys on the PTO unit, but that could account for the hole.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tufcj2a Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 May 2019 at 10:41pm
It has a PTO attachment on the back of the transfer case.  I'm guessing from older videos on CJ's it was perhaps a center-pulley PTO that drove a belt up to something on the bed. I'll find out more once I tear it all down and see what's underneath.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ol' Unreliable Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 June 2019 at 4:19am
Well, since you can see where someone removed the underseat toolbox (and the raggednes of the hole), it didn't come from the factory with a belt-driven something in the bed.  However, Bubba always could do whatever he wanted...  Smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nofender Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 June 2019 at 11:06am
The only challenge I really see is that hole cut for the PTO access. I've repaired that spot. Not hard, but that piece has more curves and more shape to it than I thought. I couldn't recreate it exactly. I was close, but more squared off for sure. 

The tool box looks to have been removed pretty cleanly. You can always add one back in. It will cover up half your tunnel repair if you aren't happy with the shape of it.

Trans tunnel is a bolt on part - no worries there. 

Personally I would leave the wheelwells alone. Maybe some hammer and dolly work, a few spot welds and some seam sealer. They don't look bad enough that I would go through the trouble. 

The rear panels are pretty easy. Straight and square bends. I think Classic sells that entire panel for short money. The toughest part will be welding access with the body on the frame. Add temp cross braces to the rear of the tub. Once you remove those panels, the tub will flop around like a noodle. 

It's a nice find! I wish I still could find something in that condition out here in the east! 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tufcj2a Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 June 2019 at 4:33pm
Thanks.  I will take the fenders off for sure, and at this point am tempted to pull the tub work on it off-frame.  I agree the wheel wells don't need too much work, just a bit of clean-up; same with the panels.

Hoping to start on it in the next week or so and will update with picts.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote CJ2A-CT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 June 2019 at 2:24am
The center hump just takes a little bit of patience and while not perfect, its good enough for government work. No doubt in my mind you could do it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tufcj2a Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 June 2019 at 5:53am
All,

Wanted to give an update on the project.  Turning into quite a learning experience and I have to give kudos to TeamG503 videos and products.  I am ending up doing all but an off-frame restore.  Pulled the tub, then decided to pull the steering, knew I had to do the tranny so thought I'd do the clutch at the same time.  Figured why not clean and paint the frame, and while I'm at it fix a few things like the battery tray.  While the tranny was pulled why not pull the engine to get better access, etc, etc, etc.

Anyway, here's the current status. Frame is painted, steering box rebuilt, frame welding done (battery tray, motor mount, a few other spots here and there).  Probably start on the transmission next.

Need to figure out what I'm going to do with the tub.  Been watching a ton of videos on metal work, welding and cj tub restoration.  We shall see...

Battery tray was rotted as usual.



Bubba welded the fenders to the body.  Joy.



Transmission was filthy with dirt, inside and out.






















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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 June 2019 at 3:28am
Your doing good work so far Thomas.You will have your tub done in no time.Congrats on your find.

Giles
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tufcj2a Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 July 2019 at 1:09am
UPDATE:

Rebuilt the transmission (my first) and put it all back together and loaded in back into the chassis.














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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote damar2yxr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 July 2019 at 12:57pm
Did you do anything with the transfer case? I ask because a rebuilt transmission is great and you can stop a lot of the leakage problems but guess where else they leak a lot? Seals, gaskets and judicial use of permatex will be easy to do when the drive train is all apart.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tufcj2a Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 July 2019 at 4:01pm
I didn't take it apart or do a rebuild.  I pulled it, drained it, removed the bottom pan and put in a new gasket/sealant, then painted.  It was working fine and a visual inspection of what I could see with the covers off showed no rust/pitting/chips, etc.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tufcj2a Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 July 2019 at 1:50am
Built an easy harness and dash so I could give her a test run.  Working well so far.  Get to start on the body now:

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tufcj2a Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 July 2019 at 2:04am
All,

Have a newbie question, on the front wheels I want to take a look at the brake drums/shoes.  The hub pullers don't fit with the adjustable knob.  Any suggestions or ideas as to how to remove the drum.  Am I missing something?  The rears were easy.  Pict enclosed


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeepsterjim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 July 2019 at 2:25am
You don't need a puller to remove the front hub.  You will need to remove the locking hub, remove the internal hub nuts, outer bearing and then pull the tire and hub off.  It is easier to remove the tire first and then proceed.

Somewhere here here is a write up on this.



Edited by jeepsterjim - 27 July 2019 at 2:36am
Jim
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 47 deuce alpha Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 July 2019 at 4:10am

1.     Turn the knob to the ENGAGE position.
2.     Apply pressure to the face of the knob and remove the three screws spaced 120° apart and nearest the flange.
3.     Pull outward and remove the knob from the mounting base.
4.     Remove the snapring from the axle shaft.
5.     Separate and remove the locking hub assembly from the rotor hub. Discard the gasket.
6.     Clean all parts in a safe solvent. Replace any damaged parts.
7.     Coat all parts with multi-purpose grease prior to assembly.
8.     Place a new gasket and the locking hub on the rotor.
9.     Install the capscrews and lockwasher and tighten them to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
10.     Install the snapring.
11.     Position the shift knob on the mounting base. Align the splines by pushing inward and turning it clockwise to lock it in position.
12.     Install and tighten the three screws.
I have the same hubs on my 2A, this might help you get started to get the hubs off.
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