New Sealer found at NAPA for Gear Oil |
Post Reply |
Author | |
Mark W.
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7982 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Posted: 24 Dec. 2018 at 7:25pm |
So on my near daily visit to the local NAPA looking for a sealer to assemble the Transfer Case and tranny to each other as well as the OD and Shifter top. I came acorss a Permatex product I have never seen before a Gray Silicone that is packaged as being specifically for Gear Oil. It was of course more expensive then the other stuff but I figured I would give it a try. Here is a link to it on Amazon. Reviews on AMAZON seam to be pretty good. Hmmm way cheaper on AMAZON LOL
Edited by Mark W. - 24 Dec. 2018 at 7:28pm |
|
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
|
Unkamonkey
Member Joined: 23 Mar. 2016 Location: Greeley CO Status: Offline Points: 2093 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Interesting. I found over the years some people just try to use too much sealant. It can end up in the wrong places and mess up things.
|
|
uncamonkey
|
|
Mark W.
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7982 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
OH I got a story for to much sealer and the WRONG sealer. As a 20 year old guy I drove a 52 Chevy 3100 Custom Cab. You know good old fashion farm pickup (LOL not any more!) Anyway fuel tank in the back of the cab. Drain valve on the bottom. Heading to pickup my Girl friend one night after earlier in the day having put in a new sending unit for the fuel tank about a mile from her house the engine starved of fuel and quit. Well I knew the truck inside and out so I quickly determined there was a fuel blockage at the bottom of the tank. I then proceeded to dig F'ing Orange Silicone sealer out of that drain valve while fuel ran down my hand and arm (you might have noticed I have a shut off valve at the bottom of CHUGS tank because of this indecent) Needless to say by the time I got it cleared and to my Girlfriends house I was over an hour late and smelling like I had taken a bath in gasoline. Her mom was a nurse took one look at the chemical burn on my right arm and dragged me off to the bath room where she washed my arm with some fancy soap and then wrapped it in a light gauge cause she said in a little bit it was really going to hurt. It was bright RED like a super bad sunburn. SO much for the date. Once they got the smell off me we ended up watching TV eating left overs. Not something I'm likely to forget. |
|
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
|
WeeWilly
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 07 May 2009 Location: Clayton IN Status: Offline Points: 3423 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I have noticed that most all silicone type sealers say they are 100% silicone even the caulking so I wonder how could one differ from the other. Jim
|
|
47 CJ2A (Ranch Hand) 48 CJ2A, 48 Willys truck, T3C 3782, M274 (Military Mule)
|
|
nofender
Member Sponsor Member x 3 Joined: 10 May 2016 Location: Maryland Status: Offline Points: 2035 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I found i could make just about any sealing surface leak. Recently I discovered the beauty of patience. I spread a thin coat of goop (pick your poison) and lightly assemble - just until the goop starts to push out. Then i wait and hour or two and cinch things down. Then....here's where I think my success comes from....I wait at least 24-48 hours before adding any lubricants. I don't have a single leak from any gasket surfaces now. The front diff doesn't even have a gasket - just goop. no leaks.
Now leaks from other places - well that's another topic entirely. I have one engine oil leak. I'm pretty sure it's a pinhole leak coming from one of the oil pan skip plate welds. It's minor but annoying. The other is gear lube from the T-90. Pretty sure it's come from a bad input shaft seal, as it leaks from the bellhousing.
|
|
46 CJ2a rockcrawler
46 CJ2a - 26819 46 Bantam T3c "4366" 47 Bantam T3C - 11800 68-ish CJ5 |
|
Bill2A
Member Joined: 01 Mar. 2018 Location: Fort Worth, Tex Status: Offline Points: 517 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
If it's not leaking anything, anywhere it either isn't a real Jeep
or just wait a minute.
|
|
1946 CJ2A 14098
|
|
willyt
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 31 July 2018 Location: Seneca,SC Status: Offline Points: 517 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Might be out of oil! Lol
|
|
1952 CJ3A (Lil'Green)
early M38A1(Ole Green) 1970 Jeepster Commando |
|
ndnchf
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 22 Sep. 2017 Location: Virginia Status: Offline Points: 2177 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I've read a lot of good things about the "Right Stuff" from Permetex. But i've not heard of this one.
|
|
1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
|
|
BrianJ
Member Joined: 06 Oct. 2014 Location: Hagerstown, MD Status: Offline Points: 564 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
After using 'The Right Stuff' - I won't use anything else. THat stuff is great, and can be put in service immediately.
|
|
Brian Jenkins
1946 CJ2A - SN: 12275 |
|
Doodledad
Member Joined: 08 Mar. 2016 Location: Muncy Pa Status: Offline Points: 400 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I also use The Right Stuff and have for many years. No issues thus far. When I use it I never use any other gasket. A nice bead on the surface, then a light razor blade to flatten it out, let it tack up and put it in place.
|
|
46 2A 29938 (unrestored driver)
51 3A "Wilma" 55 3B Fountain 47 2A Yard Art 97 XJ “Lafaunduh” 00 TJ RockCrawler "Hooker" 13 Rubicon JKU "Alice" 48 C2A Eileen 00 TJ frame off resto “Stacy” |
|
wheelie
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 25 Jan. 2011 Location: red lion. pa Status: Offline Points: 814 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
The product shown by the OP has been around for several years. I used it when I assembled my T18 and D18, 3 years ago, although neither is yet in service. I cannot vouch for it's quality.
Nofender is absolutely correct with his reply about patience. The instructions on many Permatex products tell you to just snug the bolts then wait, up to 24 hours, to put the final torque on them. I've had my best success with this method. Yet, the shops will put stuff together and fill it fluid and send it out the door. Sometimes it seals properly, sometimes not. I dunno. I'll keep doing it my way I guess, for my own peace of mind if nothing else.
|
|
47mountain cj
Member Joined: 31 May 2018 Location: Alabama Status: Offline Points: 73 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I used the Permatex gasket maker on both my front and rear differential covers and both covers on the transfer case. They were leaking terribly but that stuff worked like a charm. I used no gaskets on the diff covers but used the Permatex and paper gaskets on the transfer covers. Seems to work well.
|
|
1947 CJ2A
2012 JK |
|
Johnnygeep
Member Joined: 03 Nov. 2016 Location: Wentzville Status: Offline Points: 150 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I'm with nofender. Put a nice bead of sealer (my favorite is Ultra-black. Never a problem and no weird color showing from joints). Fit cover. Then tighten to about 1/16" gap or less (like he says finger tight is about right). If I have the time I let that setup overnight or longer. Then tighten. Don't over tighten, you will break the bond. I've used this on just about every cover and Never had a leak, comes apart easily if need be. Caveat: I can't think of any right off, but some assembly's required a gasket/spacer for correct fit or tolerance.
|
|
Post Reply | |
Tweet |
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |