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New to me trailer

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takesiteasy View Drop Down
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    Posted: 05 July 2018 at 11:00am
New member- first post. Lots of great information here.

Acquired this trailer on an impulse a couple of weeks ago. It is a Bantam T3-C. The nameplate is attached but barely legible. Near as I can tell it is # 4017 . Still sorting out my plans for it. Probably just gonna clean it up and paint it.

(Edit 9/8/2018: further investigation shows the serial number to be 24017- see follow-up posts below)

It's pretty solid- but needs sandblasting to clear surface rust off the underside so I can see how bad the rust is. Needs new tires so that is the first thing I am working on. Also repacked the bearings which looked pretty good. The tailgate chains are gone and the gate was bolted shut. The safety chains have been modified. Has the original Fulton hitch coupler but the locking tab is gone. I am going to try to make a replacement. If anyone has some good closeup pics of one I would appreciate seeing them. I've seen the ones on the the Bantam webpage.

Any thoughts or suggestions are welcome.

Here's a couple of pics:








Edited by takesiteasy - 08 Sep. 2018 at 9:03pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nofender Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 July 2018 at 5:10pm
Man! I'd love to find one in that condition around here! Looks like a gem. Congrats. 
46 CJ2 rockcrawler, 46 CJ2A semi-stocker resto-mod
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote takesiteasy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 July 2018 at 3:58pm
Originally posted by nofender nofender wrote:

Man! I'd love to find one in that condition around here! Looks like a gem. Congrats. 


Thanks. It will still be a project, but that's what I wanted.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote takesiteasy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Sep. 2018 at 9:21pm
Well, the trailer got new shoes so it is mobile now. Hauled it over to a friend's shop so we can work on it. Towed great on the highway but bounced a bit going through some road construction. It will be interesting to see how it does when loaded. 



The trailer is generally in good shape. But closer inspection is revealing some rust issues- not unexpected. So far we have removed the fenders and the tailgate and repaired some random bolt holes and a couple small tears. The tailgate was attached with homemade hinges which we cut off. I have ordered new hinges to match the original ones. The tailgate was pretty bowed out so we used the hydraulic press to straighten it- worked pretty well.







We are getting it ready to haul to the sandblaster. Decided to remove the floor. It's not real bad- just a couple of holes but the underside has a lot of surface rust. It is also cratered a bit- looks like a few loads of boulders were dumped in at some point. The frame is really solid with only one bad rust spot near one of the shackles. As long as we're at it, it would be nice to be able to get at the whole frame to fix any rust spots that are covered by the floor and sides. Sides are really good with just a couple of issues.





Once we get it back from the sandblasting, we will fix the bad spots, put in a new floor and move on to painting.

Thinking ahead, I've got a few things to ponder. Advice is requested.

What is the proper location for the tailgate hinges? I've seen some near the edge of the tailgate and some inset maybe 6 inches away from the edge towards the center.

Should I try to remove the springs and put new hardware on? The shackles look good but the bolts are rusted. We'll see what they look like after sandblasting.

What about putting shocks on it? I've read how to do it but am uncertain if there would be a payoff. Would that lessen the bouncing? Seems a lot of that comes just from the tires. Would that diminish the "original" aspect and be a detriment to people looking to restore to original?

Similar question for the landing leg and coupler. They are in really good condition but the bolts are rusted. I'm wondering if I should remove them for painting and install new bolts.

Where do people buy replacement bolts, shackles and other hardware? Any recommended suppliers?

What color should I paint it? I have found both red and green paint in different spots so hard to know what was original. Should I remove the original serial number tag and look under there? Are there color chip numbers for matching original paint colors? I was also thinking of going white to match my truck- but not sure about that.

I'm wondering what people are using for replacement reflectors. The ones on there are pretty rusted. They are the Grote 100 version.

Well that's a long post and lots of questions. I hope some of you experienced folks can help me out. Smile


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PackRat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Sep. 2018 at 2:52pm
The hinges on #21170 are 29 1/2" apart.
The springs are the same as a WWII jeep front springs and aftermarket springs from Rancho or from Ron Fitzpatrick Jeep Parts will work.

Adding shocks like the WWII trailers had is not a bad idea at all as that may stop some extreme bouncing when you go off-road.

Try to find the same Grotelite bezels and reflectors (No.100 marked) as they are available.

I would remove the drawbar, the drawbars and the Fulton hitch/coupler and blast them independantly then paint and reassemble after everything cures WELL. Be very careful in trying to unbolt them though...if you do break them, Fastenal may be a good place or maybe an ACE hardware?

The tab for the Fulton coupler has been fabricated and I think someone has posted pics of here somewhere.

By the way, your pic of a hole in the front corner is the same as the holes in the front corners of my trailer. "Water Letter Outters" I believe since the post war Bantams did not need to float (well, the tailgate isn't watertight anyway!).

That's a start....post more pics as you go along though!

GPW-17963 4/24/42
Ford F-250
Alaskan Camper
Bantam T3-C #21170
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PackRat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Sep. 2018 at 3:06pm
If you click on the Bantam trailer data plate icon at the top right corner, you can go to a chart that tracks the features of many T3-Cs. After looking at the drawbars which have a SLANTED gusset in them rather than the WWII-style "VEE" gusset which was used up past #10,000, I checked your data plate up close and I think I see a "2" in front of the "4017". That would make it a 1947 trailer. You can check the chart for others in the 20,000 range for characteristics to compare yours to vs. a "4017" numbered plate sequence.
GPW-17963 4/24/42
Ford F-250
Alaskan Camper
Bantam T3-C #21170
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote takesiteasy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Sep. 2018 at 10:29pm
Originally posted by PackRat PackRat wrote:

If you click on the Bantam trailer data plate icon at the top right corner, you can go to a chart that tracks the features of many T3-Cs. After looking at the drawbars which have a SLANTED gusset in them rather than the WWII-style "VEE" gusset which was used up past #10,000, I checked your data plate up close and I think I see a "2" in front of the "4017". That would make it a 1947 trailer. You can check the chart for others in the 20,000 range for characteristics to compare yours to vs. a "4017" numbered plate sequence.


Thanks for your comments! Good eye on the data plate. I will check that out and see if I can confirm the "2" in front. Makes sense with the other attributes you point out- the drawbars and the shackles seem to be the later style. Learning more every day.


Edited by takesiteasy - 06 Sep. 2018 at 10:32pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote takesiteasy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Sep. 2018 at 10:31pm
I'm having a hard time finding the upper shock mounting brackets. Does anyone know where I can find some?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote takesiteasy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Sep. 2018 at 10:39pm
Originally posted by PackRat PackRat wrote:


...
The tab for the Fulton coupler has been fabricated and I think someone has posted pics of here somewhere.
...



I did make a tab for the coupler. I will link to it here to add it to this build thread:
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/fulton-coupler-locking-tab-replacement_topic42749.html




Edited by takesiteasy - 09 Sep. 2018 at 11:05am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PackRat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Sep. 2018 at 2:04pm
If you want to bolt on some upper shock mounts, go to the www.g503.com website and scroll down to the 1/4 ton Trailer section. If you check it out you may find someone scrapping a basket case who will unbolt them for you. I would just have hem torch out the section of the frame they are located on so you can do a careful removal on your own.

Once you have them primed and painted and ready to put back on, you can ask here for a measurement to bolt them on (the very early T3-Cs used the WWII left overs and will have the bolt holes in the frames) or go back to the G503 or, check out any WWII 1/4 ton and measure them your self.

GPW-17963 4/24/42
Ford F-250
Alaskan Camper
Bantam T3-C #21170
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote takesiteasy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Sep. 2018 at 8:57pm
Originally posted by takesiteasy takesiteasy wrote:

Originally posted by PackRat PackRat wrote:

If you click on the Bantam trailer data plate icon at the top right corner, you can go to a chart that tracks the features of many T3-Cs. After looking at the drawbars which have a SLANTED gusset in them rather than the WWII-style "VEE" gusset which was used up past #10,000, I checked your data plate up close and I think I see a "2" in front of the "4017". That would make it a 1947 trailer. You can check the chart for others in the 20,000 range for characteristics to compare yours to vs. a "4017" numbered plate sequence.


Thanks for your comments! Good eye on the data plate. I will check that out and see if I can confirm the "2" in front. Makes sense with the other attributes you point out- the drawbars and the shackles seem to be the later style. Learning more every day.


I took a closer look at the data plate today and confirmed the faint #2 in front of the 4017 which would make the serial number 24017. Thanks for pointing that out!

edit- more info on the serial number:

Here's a larger pic of the data plate- the faint "2" is more visible. The third digit in this pic looks like it could be a "9" but in most other photos it looks like "0". The last digit looks like a "7" but in some other photos I can talk myself into thinking it is a "1". Between looking at the real thing and the photos, I think the number is "24017" but it could be "24917" or "24011". I'm interested in what others might think.



The trailer is now totally disassembled and loaded in the truck for delivery to the sandblaster. We went way further than I was planning to go but we will get a better result so I am ok with it.


Edited by takesiteasy - 12 Sep. 2018 at 5:38pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote takesiteasy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Sep. 2018 at 11:36pm
Delivered the trailer in pieces to the sandblaster today- will get it all back in about a week- then the fun begins. We will have a bit of welding/repair to do on the frame and tub as well as putting in a new floor. Ordered all new bolts- most of the old ones were pretty rusty and quite a few broke during removal.

I will soon have to make a decision on paint color. No one has weighed in on that yet- what's up? My choices are 1) original green, 2) olive drab, 3) white to match my truck.

What do people think? Anybody out there have an opinion? Thumbs Up Thumbs Down Smile


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mickeykelley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Sep. 2018 at 12:30am
What I've read is they originally were either green or red.  Not sure if the red is the same as the Willys Presidential red or not.  When I get to that stage, I'm going with red to match the red jeep.  

What floor are you replacing it with?  Or just patching in panels?  Mine has holes any still trying to decide.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote takesiteasy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Sep. 2018 at 10:25am
Originally posted by mickeykelley mickeykelley wrote:

What I've read is they originally were either green or red.  Not sure if the red is the same as the Willys Presidential red or not.  When I get to that stage, I'm going with red to match the red jeep.  

What floor are you replacing it with?  Or just patching in panels?  Mine has holes any still trying to decide.


Thanks for your comments. I can see both green and red on the hubs- looks like green was first and then red. Removed the data plate before sandblasting and the paint under that looks like green. The last paint was a kind of olive drab. So I'm not getting any direction from the trailer, haha.

I'm replacing the whole floor. It wasn't that bad but there were a few holes and it was pretty cratered between the frame supports. I will use pieces of the old floor to patch a couple of spots in the tub. I'm so deep into this thing that I've decided to try to make it look good when it's done.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote canorisa Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Sep. 2018 at 8:23pm
Takesiteasy:

This is my Bantam before and after restoration.  The original - original color of this trailer was red.  I found out that when I pulled the wheels off and when I pulled the fenders off but someone, at some point in it's life, had spray painted the trailer white.  By the time I found it, it was a rusty white color, lol.  

I went with Bengal Red for color and yes it is powder coated and like you I was in it too deep by the time I decided to go that rout, so that is the end result.  Can't wait to see yours when finished.  Are you sure you want to cut out the original floor on your trailer?  Mine was and is a bit wavy and I had to patch some holes on it but luckily I had someone with me with the expertise and taught me how to close those holes for good.  They weren't that big to begin with but they did bothered me after I took the trailer apart.  Well, that's your call.

Here are some pics of before and after....


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cpt logger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Sep. 2018 at 11:22pm
Oh boy, I get to vote!!

Since I use all of my equipment, I would go with OD green, or some flat color. Not White. I would also find a color I can buy in rattle cans. Perhaps OD?

Obviously, what works fore me may not work for you.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mickeykelley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Sep. 2018 at 12:01am
Posting pics of the beds would be great to see the wave.  I'm still trying to decide myself.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote canorisa Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Sep. 2018 at 12:17am
Originally posted by mickeykelley mickeykelley wrote:

Posting pics of the beds would be great to see the wave.  I'm still trying to decide myself.

Here's a pic of my trailer's bed before restoration.  For the life of me, I can't find the one after restoration.  Notice in the picture where the waves are.  You can tell where the bottom beams are.  It's pretty wavy but I added a diamond plate 1/2" thick rubber mat on top and it's pretty nice.  You can't tell the waves on the floor of the trailer now. Wink

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