Newly Acquired Drivetrain

Another pic

That came from a 3A, not a 2A, unless late 2As used the 3A type starter and front plate/motor mounts.

I'd say make sure it turns over easily, clean the carb, change the oil, check valve adjustment, adjust if necessary. Maybe pull the oil pan and check for sludge and clean the pickup screen. If you have the space, keep the tranny and T/C for spares.

There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable

Yes!, the fuel pump and the front mounting plate with the foreword facing ear are 3A, as well as the crossmember for the trans/tc.... Nice find!

Lee

LEE
44 GPW-The Perfected Willys
49 2A
“If you wait, you only get older”
67 M715
American Made Rolling History

I tried spinning motor with a breaker bar with no luck. Since it is attached to transmission and transfer case, is ther something special I must do? The trans is in neutral. Should I detach the drivetrain or somehow release pressure on clutch?

I’m hoping it is a newby simplistic mistake

Post a photo of the rust in the cylinders - how much rust? Just light surface rust?

Stev
1946 CJ2A Trail Jeep (The Saint), 1948 CJ2A Lefty Restored

back center

front cylinder

Scott, Looking at your pictures, I doubt if this engine will be OK without a re-bore job, but I have been wrong about that in the past. I hope I am wrong this time as well.

Try this, use some Scotch-Brite to remove as much of the rust as possible while trying to keep the scales from dropping down around the rings. Rags help a bit with this. Then take more pictures so we can evaluate the depth of the pitting on the cylinder walls. I hope that the pitting is not as bad as it looks on the posted pictures.

Eventually you will have to pull the pistons out of the cylinders to get a good look at the cylinder walls. Try to remove them intact. Not only will someone, (hopefully you), be able to reuse those pistons, you will also lower the risk of damaging the engine further.

What I recommend is the Scotch-Brite. When you have as much of the rust removed this way as you can get, wipe the dirty crap out of the cylinders with rags, then oil the tops of the pistons with your favorite penetrating oil, NOT WD-40! PB Blaster is good. Let it soak for at least a few hours, days would be better. After that, try to move the crankshaft (CS) again. If it moves just a bit & stops, repeat the above steps & try to move the CS again, try both directions.

Oh, BTW, the cylinders are numbered front to back. The front one is #1 & the aft one is #4.

IHTH, Cpt Logger.

Edited to add PB Blaster.

Edited by cpt logger - 21 July 2018 at 3:38am

It doesn't look like it was taking on water. More looks like someone didn't store it correctly. Too bad because the bore and the cylinders look pretty fresh.

Just my opinion, that's way beyond Scotch-brite. Don't waste your time. Remove the crank and pound those pistons out. Send it out and hope for the best.

46 CJ2a rockcrawler
46 CJ2a - 26819
46 Bantam T3c "4366"
47 Bantam T3C - 11800
68-ish CJ5

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Kulpfarm Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 14 Apr. 2017 Location: PA Status: Offline Points: 195	Post Options Post Reply Quote Kulpfarm Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: Newly Acquired Drivetrain Posted: 16 July 2018 at 12:09am
	I recently aquired a full drive train from a 1949 CJ2a. It was said to be running prior to the cj being torn apart to be part of a display unit. What steps should I take prior to trying to start it up for the first time in a long time. Change oil? Adjust valves? Is it worth keeping transfer case and transmission for spare or sell it off?

Kulpfarm Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 14 Apr. 2017 Location: PA Status: Offline Points: 195	Post Options Post Reply Quote Kulpfarm Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 16 July 2018 at 12:11am
	Another pic

Lee MN Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 13 Aug. 2008 Location: Harris, MN Status: Offline Points: 4953	Post Options Post Reply Quote Lee MN Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 16 July 2018 at 2:05am
	It's a 3A engine!... Lee
	LEE 44 GPW-The Perfected Willys 49 2A “If you wait, you only get older” 67 M715 American Made Rolling History

Ol' Unreliable Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 25 Sep. 2016 Location: CO Springs CO Status: Offline Points: 4226	Post Options Post Reply Quote Ol' Unreliable Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 16 July 2018 at 2:07am
	That came from a 3A, not a 2A, unless late 2As used the 3A type starter and front plate/motor mounts. I'd say make sure it turns over easily, clean the carb, change the oil, check valve adjustment, adjust if necessary. Maybe pull the oil pan and check for sludge and clean the pickup screen. If you have the space, keep the tranny and T/C for spares.
	There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable

Kulpfarm Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 14 Apr. 2017 Location: PA Status: Offline Points: 195	Post Options Post Reply Quote Kulpfarm Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 16 July 2018 at 8:52pm
	I noticed the difference but didn’t understand what I was looking at. Was the starter on the 3A a pedal start?

Lee MN Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 13 Aug. 2008 Location: Harris, MN Status: Offline Points: 4953	Post Options Post Reply Quote Lee MN Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 16 July 2018 at 11:17pm
	Yes!, the fuel pump and the front mounting plate with the foreword facing ear are 3A, as well as the crossmember for the trans/tc.... Nice find! Lee
	LEE 44 GPW-The Perfected Willys 49 2A “If you wait, you only get older” 67 M715 American Made Rolling History

Kulpfarm Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 14 Apr. 2017 Location: PA Status: Offline Points: 195	Post Options Post Reply Quote Kulpfarm Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 16 July 2018 at 11:33pm
	thank you. I still have not done anything with it yet. Waiting on my 1 3/8” so let to arrive so I can give it a turn. Oil looks clean but haven’t opened oils pan yet.

Kulpfarm Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 14 Apr. 2017 Location: PA Status: Offline Points: 195	Post Options Post Reply Quote Kulpfarm Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 17 July 2018 at 9:55pm
	I tried spinning motor with a breaker bar with no luck. Since it is attached to transmission and transfer case, is ther something special I must do? The trans is in neutral. Should I detach the drivetrain or somehow release pressure on clutch? I’m hoping it is a newby simplistic mistake

Kulpfarm Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 14 Apr. 2017 Location: PA Status: Offline Points: 195	Post Options Post Reply Quote Kulpfarm Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 20 July 2018 at 10:06pm
	got the head off and now I’m understanding why it wouldn’t spin. Pistons have clean tops (30 over) but walls above are crusted with rust. Looks like the motor wasn’t covered and water got into the carb and eventually into cylinders. What determines if this is worthy of a rebuild? At least, the transmission and transfer case seem good. Clutch was brand new.

Stev Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Sponsor Member Joined: 27 July 2016 Location: Cincinnati Status: Offline Points: 2391	Post Options Post Reply Quote Stev Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 20 July 2018 at 10:29pm
	Post a photo of the rust in the cylinders - how much rust? Just light surface rust?
	Stev 1946 CJ2A Trail Jeep (The Saint), 1948 CJ2A Lefty Restored

Kulpfarm Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 14 Apr. 2017 Location: PA Status: Offline Points: 195	Post Options Post Reply Quote Kulpfarm Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 21 July 2018 at 12:32am
	back cylinder

Kulpfarm Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 14 Apr. 2017 Location: PA Status: Offline Points: 195	Post Options Post Reply Quote Kulpfarm Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 21 July 2018 at 12:33am
	back center

Kulpfarm Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 14 Apr. 2017 Location: PA Status: Offline Points: 195	Post Options Post Reply Quote Kulpfarm Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 21 July 2018 at 12:34am
	front center

Kulpfarm Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 14 Apr. 2017 Location: PA Status: Offline Points: 195	Post Options Post Reply Quote Kulpfarm Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 21 July 2018 at 12:35am
	front cylinder

Kulpfarm Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 14 Apr. 2017 Location: PA Status: Offline Points: 195	Post Options Post Reply Quote Kulpfarm Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 21 July 2018 at 12:40am
	still stuck fast. Have them soaking in PB blaster

cpt logger Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 23 Sep. 2012 Location: Western Colorad Status: Offline Points: 3043	Post Options Post Reply Quote cpt logger Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 21 July 2018 at 3:36am
	Scott, Looking at your pictures, I doubt if this engine will be OK without a re-bore job, but I have been wrong about that in the past. I hope I am wrong this time as well. Try this, use some Scotch-Brite to remove as much of the rust as possible while trying to keep the scales from dropping down around the rings. Rags help a bit with this. Then take more pictures so we can evaluate the depth of the pitting on the cylinder walls. I hope that the pitting is not as bad as it looks on the posted pictures. Eventually you will have to pull the pistons out of the cylinders to get a good look at the cylinder walls. Try to remove them intact. Not only will someone, (hopefully you), be able to reuse those pistons, you will also lower the risk of damaging the engine further. What I recommend is the Scotch-Brite. When you have as much of the rust removed this way as you can get, wipe the dirty crap out of the cylinders with rags, then oil the tops of the pistons with your favorite penetrating oil, NOT WD-40! PB Blaster is good. Let it soak for at least a few hours, days would be better. After that, try to move the crankshaft (CS) again. If it moves just a bit & stops, repeat the above steps & try to move the CS again, try both directions. Oh, BTW, the cylinders are numbered front to back. The front one is #1 & the aft one is #4. IHTH, Cpt Logger. Edited to add PB Blaster. Edited by cpt logger - 21 July 2018 at 3:38am

Kulpfarm Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 14 Apr. 2017 Location: PA Status: Offline Points: 195	Post Options Post Reply Quote Kulpfarm Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 25 July 2018 at 10:53pm
	Learn a hard lesson, there still plenty of unhonest people in the world. After scrubbing with some Scotch-Brite (maroon), I found some more damage. Cylinder #1 looks like a wrist pin broke scoring the cylinder wall deeply. Motor still stuck but trying to be patient. Cylinder #4 would need to be bored. Oil was dark but water free but starting wonder if the person drained it and filled it with used oil.

nofender Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Sponsor Member x 3 Joined: 10 May 2016 Location: Maryland Status: Offline Points: 2035	Post Options Post Reply Quote nofender Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 26 July 2018 at 1:15am
	It doesn't look like it was taking on water. More looks like someone didn't store it correctly. Too bad because the bore and the cylinders look pretty fresh. Just my opinion, that's way beyond Scotch-brite. Don't waste your time. Remove the crank and pound those pistons out. Send it out and hope for the best.
	46 CJ2a rockcrawler 46 CJ2a - 26819 46 Bantam T3c "4366" 47 Bantam T3C - 11800 68-ish CJ5