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BavWilly View Drop Down
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    Posted: 20 June 2022 at 7:34am
Hello,

As I mentioned in my introduction, I recently got myself into the Jeep world, buying a “restored” CJ2a 1948.

So, here’s my first miracle. The car produces a weird noise in certain situations. Shifting from 2nd to 3rd at around 30ish mph it starts to vibrate (you feel it wenn you sit on the passenger side with your feet on the floor board). It’s over when you get closer to 40mph. I checked for all kind of loose parts (brake lines, muffler …) but couldn’t find anything.

It seems also to be much stronger when the gears are not in mesh (not pulling nor pushing). It sounds like a really load vibration sound coming more from the rear … but it’s difficult to locate.in particular since there is no sound at all at low speeds.

Any ideas? I know, “weird noise” questions are always difficult to tackle, but it’s maybe a common thing and easy to locate

Thanks
Klaus
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jeff J Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 June 2022 at 7:58am
The easiest thing to do if you suspect the rear end is pull the cover and check the fluid for metal and do a visual of what can be seen.

The last strange noise I had trouble locating, I blocked up all four corners of the vehicle and found someone to “drive” it while I crawled around underneath with a stethoscope keeping a good distance from anything spinning. In my case I was thinking rear wheel bearing but couldn’t tell which side. The stethoscope confirmed it on the right side. A long screwdriver can be used the same way but I do not recommend it in tight places around moving parts. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oilleaker1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 June 2022 at 8:15am
Check the "clocking" of your driveshafts. I went through this. My u-joints all lined up so I dismissed that. I was wrong. The "ears" that hold the u-joints on either side of the slider in your shaft must be the same or in plane or it will vibrate and drive you nuts. 

Easy to check. If they are 90 degrees from one another, the slide the shaft apart and line them up. 

May not be your problem, but it's one thing to check, Oilly
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BavWilly View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BavWilly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 June 2022 at 8:26am
Sounds interesting, Oilly. But not sure I fully grasp it. Would you have a picture ….?
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BavWilly View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BavWilly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 June 2022 at 8:45am
Oilly,

Just checked both shafts. Both, rear and front drive shafts the two U-ends are definitely not positioned at 90 decrease …. Should they be?
If yes, is there an easy fix to that? Sorry, probably a stupid question but I’m more a motorcycle guy …

Thanks
Klaus
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SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 June 2022 at 9:13am
This driveshaft is in correct phase:



This one is 90 degrees out of phase:

46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red" (bought April 1969)(second owner)(12 V, 11" brakes, M-38 frame, MD Juan tub)

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote muley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 June 2022 at 9:17am
. The man from Kansas beat me..

Edited by muley - 20 June 2022 at 9:19am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeepsterjim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 June 2022 at 9:26am
Noticed the name you use in here being, KLAUS....by chance, is that from the Canadian pop rock group Klaus?  A little known great band. 

Jim
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 June 2022 at 9:41am
The u-joint in either end of the driveshafts could be a cause for vibration at certain speeds. A worn u-joint or one that is binding will do that. A check for looseness or binding is best done with the driveshaft out of the jeep. The u-joint should move smoothly in the yoke with no catch. Do not make the common mistake of over tightening the u-bolts that hold the u-joint in the axle yokes or the front transfer case yoke. This can distort the u-joint bearing cap and caused binding. Use new lock washers under the u-bolt nuts and let them to the work of securing the nut without over tightening the nut.
46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red" (bought April 1969)(second owner)(12 V, 11" brakes, M-38 frame, MD Juan tub)

U.S. Coast Guard Chief Petty Officer(ret.)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BavWilly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 June 2022 at 9:58am
Alright … that could be the issue. They are not aligned like on the phone. How can I correct this?

… and no, no Canadian pop group member Smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeepsterjim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 June 2022 at 10:10am
Originally posted by BavWilly BavWilly wrote:

Alright … that could be the issue. They are not aligned like on the phone. How can I correct this?

… and no, no Canadian pop group member Smile

OK, many of their songs sound like the beatles. People thought they were but under a different name.  I was just curious.
Jim
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bight Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 June 2022 at 10:20am
lots of good videos on youtube regarding this. look for driveshaft phasing and driveshaft clocking. 

Edited by bight - 20 June 2022 at 10:21am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 June 2022 at 10:27am
The driveshaft slip yoke will have to be removed from the other end (spline end) and reinstalled with the correct phasing. It can be done with half of the driveshaft still in the jeep. The slip yoke and u-joint needs to be removed by carefully removing the dust cap on the end of the slip yoke. On older style slip yokes, usually there are small tabs that bend over the end of the slip yoke that need to be straightened. On newer style drivehafts, the cap unscrews from the body of the slip yoke. If it is the rear driveshaft that needs rephasing, it is probably easier to remove the u-bolts at the rear axle yoke and remove the dust cap, rather than disconnect the end at the transfer case. Regardless of how you remove one end, the dust cap is disconnected from the slip yoke and the slip yoke just slides off the driveshaft spline. Align the driveshaft in correct phase and slide the slip yoke back onto the spline. Re-install the dust cap. Check both front and rear shafts for correct alignment and roadtest. It wouldn't hurt to give each grease zerk on the u-joints a shot of grease and also the zerk on the slip yoke. Hopefully that will correct your vibration.
46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red" (bought April 1969)(second owner)(12 V, 11" brakes, M-38 frame, MD Juan tub)

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oldpappy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 June 2022 at 10:28am
Klaus,

You have to disconnect the drive shaft, slide it apart at the slip joint, and reassemble in correct phase.

There is a dust cap on the slip joint that has to be disconnected before the shaft will slide out of the joint.

There are different attachments for the dust cap, but some of them have tabs you can bend out of the way with a screw driver.

Since you have to drop the driveshaft and disassemble it anyway now is the time to replace the U joints with new ones. They don't cost much. I would also replace the felt seal under the dust cap.

I found a thread on this forum pertaining to this issue and it even has a link to a good YouTube video.



Edited by Oldpappy - 20 June 2022 at 10:31am
If you can't get there in a Jeep you don't need to be there!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oldpappy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 June 2022 at 10:35am
Looks like Kansas types faster than I do Smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote berettajeep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 June 2022 at 10:55am
I say remove the driveshaft and while there replace the u-joints or just check condition. 
I just rebuilt a set of propeller shafts for my '47 and they had arrows stamped on them.




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BavWilly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 June 2022 at 11:57am
Thanks guys. You’re amazing

I will open the U-bolts on both (front and rear) shafts and align the ends. Will report back after the road test.

Later
Klaus 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 June 2022 at 12:47pm
Originally posted by berettajeep berettajeep wrote:

I say remove the driveshaft and while there replace the u-joints or just check condition. 
I just rebuilt a set of propeller shafts for my '47 and they had arrows stamped on them.






Some do and most don't. The driveshaft in the picture has been repaired at some point in it's life; that isn't a factory weld.

That picture is a good illustration of the tab style dust cap.

Edited by SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A - 20 June 2022 at 12:48pm
46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red" (bought April 1969)(second owner)(12 V, 11" brakes, M-38 frame, MD Juan tub)

U.S. Coast Guard Chief Petty Officer(ret.)
U.S. Army Vietnam veteran and damned proud of it.



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