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'Nother Diesel Build Thread

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bobevans View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bobevans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Mar. 2018 at 4:15am
After mounting the adapter, I thought it must be time to get the engine ready.  Since it was now back on an engine stand, I turned my attention to removing the center dump exhaust manifold.  Greg recommended going with a front dump exhaust manifold to mount the turbo.  I have been dreading removing the manifold from the beginning.  The rust and wear on the manifold gave an ominous foreboding.  In preparation, I have been giving the nuts a squirt of Liquid Wrench every time I walked past.  Sure enough, I started breaking off studs.  I thought maybe cutting the old exhaust manifold off (it was visibly cracked) would give me better access.  It worked like a charm.  I was able to break the studs off much faster now.  A quick search of YouTube produced a couple of tricks to try.  All the studs broke off with at least some metal sticking out.  I was able to clean off the metal and slip fit a nut on what was left of the stud.  A quick blast with the MIG welder and the nut was welded on.  Lo and behold a little pressure on socket slipped over the welded on nut and the stud backed right out.  I allowed the studs to cool just a bit before putting the wrench to them.


Edited by bobevans - 29 Mar. 2018 at 4:17am
'48 CJ2A

'56 DJ3A

'79 CJ7

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bobevans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Mar. 2018 at 4:26am
Going to have to put in an order to Parts Barn for a new exhaust manifold, so while waiting let's do some more body work.  Diet and exercise involve a bunch of effort.  I thought it might be easier to just move my seat back and accommodate my gut.   We have all read about notching the wheelwell/rear inner fender to gain more space.  This would be really helpful on a 2A, and I hope it will work OK for 3A tub.  I cut out a chunk of the inner driver's rear fender.  Then I took some 16 ga sheet metal and bent it up on my home made metal break and the vice.  Honestly, on this piece I use my vice alone for most of it. I would not have been able to remove so much metal without moving the rear axle back.  The fact that my shackles are in the back should help, too.  The axle will move back as it moves up while being compressed.


Edited by bobevans - 29 Mar. 2018 at 4:29am
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And two of them actually run!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bobevans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Apr. 2018 at 3:01am
I was asked to post a couple of pictures of the drivetrain, so here goes.  There are, obviously, a couple of pics with the body on and a couple of pics with it tipped back on the rear tires.  With the tub in place it just contacts the top of the transmission.  I was all set (mentally, anyhow) to fab up a new trans tunnel, but it doesn't look like I will need to.  The tranny will shift with a cable, so I could put the shifter about anywhere.  It will probably go right on top of the trans and modify the stock cover to work.  I am going to set the tub on raised mounts, making them as thin as possible.  They will likely end up about 3/4" thick and will be made from a hard rubber boat "bumper"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bobevans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Apr. 2018 at 3:04am
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And two of them actually run!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bobevans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Apr. 2018 at 3:17am
The transfer case cross member is a piece of 2 x 4" rectangular tubing left over from the bumpers.  It will bolt to a piece of heavy angle (the same one I made the frame side engine mounts from) welded to the frame.  In the one pic, you can see how I mounted it too far forward and didn't leave much room for the front driveshaft.  Luckily it was just tacked on and has already been moved back.  I drilled and tapped the bottom of the Xmember for the skid plate.  It will use bugle headed hex bolts so hopefully the bolts won't get destroyed on rocks.  The transmission will mount to the xmember using a standard GM mount and I will use socket headed cap screws mounted inside the xmember.  Finally, the xmember will mount to the angle using gr 8 1/2" bolts, again within the inside.



Edited by bobevans - 06 Jan. 2019 at 5:24am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bobevans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Apr. 2018 at 3:29am
Sometimes it pays to be lucky.  I figured I would end up with such a small rear drive shaft, down a good bit from the back of the transfer case I would have to have a custom made, double cardan joint shaft made and angle the rear pinion so it is pointing at the rear output of the X-case.  As it turns out, a stock CJ5 rear shaft fits perfectly, but the amazing thing is I had front shaft that fits the front perfectly.  I have no idea what it is out of (did I mention I am Jeep parts hoarder?).  It was out in field and took quite a bit of persuasion (like a drilling a hole in the "grease keeper plate" in the end of the yoke and pressing it out on my 12ton press).  I think it prudent to look for a newer shaft, but this one works ok now after I swapped on another yoke.  The rear axle is just sitting on the spring perches, so after we get the rear angle dialed in, I'll tack the perches on and have my buddy stick weld them on for good.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bobevans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Apr. 2018 at 3:50am
Kubota Skid Plate
The metal on the bottom of the Kubota oil pan sure seems thin.  It sits up pretty high, so that should help protect it but I have seen Jeeps get stuck on rocks in stranger places.  A skid plate is in order.  The construction company that was in the building where my office is located has a habit of throwing away some cool stuff.  A few years ago they were throwing away these neat aluminum signs.  They were sitting right on top!  So like George Costanza from the Seinfeld eclair episode, I helped myself (after asking, of course) I've made a bunch of brackets and such from them, but I thought we'd try a skid plate.  It was pretty tough to bend, but luckily for me I've developed a physique that allows me to apply quite of bit weight to objects.   
I put a commercially available skid plate on my JK about 5 years ago.  It was attached with nothing more than silicone sealant.  I was sure it wouldn't last all that long, but it hasn't moved in those 5 years and thousands of miles, including trips through the Rubicon and Moab.  The "adhesive" is high temp copper silicone.  I wire brushed off the "Drive through window" stuff and degreased, Scotch brite padded and finally cleaned with Cleanz Eazy on both the pan and the inside of the skid.
Time will tell
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ol' Unreliable Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Apr. 2018 at 5:33am
Originally posted by bobevans bobevans wrote:

I am going to set the tub on raised mounts, making them as thin as possible.  They will likely end up about 3/4" thick and will be made from a hard rubber boat "bumper"


I would recommend using urethane body mounts made for a CJ-5.  They might be a touch less than 3/4" but they are made for the job.  Plus, you won't need to cut them.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bobevans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Apr. 2018 at 1:04am
Originally posted by Ol' Unreliable Ol' Unreliable wrote:

Originally posted by bobevans bobevans wrote:

I am going to set the tub on raised mounts, making them as thin as possible.  They will likely end up about 3/4" thick and will be made from a hard rubber boat "bumper"


I would recommend using urethane body mounts made for a CJ-5.  They might be a touch less than 3/4" but they are made for the job.  Plus, you won't need to cut them.


That's a good idea and I still might do that.  That's what I used on one of my CJ7 builds and they worked well.  The cool thing about the rubber rolls is you can cut them on a band saw to just the right thickness.  None of my body mounts look like they did originally, so I'm not sure if the poly kit would have just the right thickness.  4WD Hardware used to ship those rubber rolls with their fiberglass tubs and I thought they worked really slick.  I still run the rubber spacers on another  CJ7 15 years later and they seem to be holding up well.


Edited by bobevans - 11 Apr. 2018 at 1:06am
'48 CJ2A

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ol' Unreliable Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Apr. 2018 at 3:35am
Originally posted by bobevans bobevans wrote:

I still run the rubber spacers on another  CJ7 15 years later and they seem to be holding up well.


I wonder how they'll hold up after another 30 years?  Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Millennium falcon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 June 2018 at 1:39pm
I havent checked this thread in awhile! Its looking great! 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RustyAutoholicGuy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Sep. 2018 at 2:30pm
Great looking thread! I really like the skip plate for the oil pan! Any updates?

-Grant
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote bobevans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Sep. 2018 at 2:01am
Days are getting shorter, so I'll be spending some more time in the garage. I went out tonight and ground the frame clean where the brackets will be welded on. Then I started putting things back together, but I had to come in and check my thread to remember how a couple of pieces went on!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bobevans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Dec. 2018 at 3:50am
I guess it’s time to update this thread.  I took everything back apart after tack welding the motor mounts, transfer case cross member mounts, steering box, and suspension mounts.  I had a buddy bring his 220V welder and burn them in right.  A little paint and it’s time to put it back together again.  Hopefully one more time and then take it back apart one more time for paint.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bobevans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Dec. 2018 at 3:58am
Now that it’s back together, I can load the Jeep with weight and tack the spring perches to the axle tubes.  The rear axle is Dana44 that came out of an Isuzu Rodeo.  It originally had leaf springs and I was able to cut off the perches and reuse them.  To do that, I loaded the Jeep and measured the angle of the yoke on the transfer case and duplicate that angle on the yoke of the rear axle

Edited by bobevans - 06 Jan. 2019 at 5:28am
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'56 DJ3A

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And two of them actually run!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bobevans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Dec. 2018 at 4:03am
”You might be a redneck if.....”. Loading the Jeep to get the springs weighted.  There are a couple of transfer cases and a bunch of steel laying in the Jeep.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bobevans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Dec. 2018 at 4:10am
The front shock mounts are going to be stock towers from a 82-85 (I think) Jeep CJ.  I am using an existing hole in the frame welding a couple pieces of tubing to the top of the frame rail.  They will give me a 21” long shock at rest.
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'56 DJ3A

'79 CJ7

And two of them actually run!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote bobevans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Dec. 2018 at 4:16am
the tube that is tack welded in the last photo is an old, bent tie rod.  First problem encountered after installing the shock towers is the passenger “battery bulge “ in the fender.  I’m going to move the battery back anyhow, but the fender will need trimmed.  High lining the front fenders is also in the plans.
'48 CJ2A

'56 DJ3A

'79 CJ7

And two of them actually run!
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