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NOVI governor

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lowenuf View Drop Down
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    Posted: 07 Jan. 2007 at 1:58pm
picture of the installed NOVI governor i purchased from another 2A member. the Warning tag is a very nice reproduction piece from Alan here on the 2A page.
 
45 #10012
45 #10033 ACM #47
45 #10163 ACM #188
57 CJ5    Dauntless V6, T-18 4-speed, D-44 rear/D-30 front, D-20 twin stick



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dale Dubbert Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Aug. 2007 at 2:40pm
Here is my Novi installation on a 48 CJ2A. 
The governor was purchased from another cj2a page member, was disassembled, cleaned and painted.  Bearings were fine ... just needed to replace the front shaft seal.
I made the mounting bracket from 1/8" sheet steel.  Dimensions based on numerous photos and lots of input from Daniel (Uglyjeep).
The linkage was made from rod ends B09872 from restorationstuff.com and 1/4" steel rod.
Pully is a Grainger CA-400 4AX3/8 drilled out to 7/16".
Belt is a NAPA XL25-9470.
T-handle is an original.
 

 

 


Edited by Dale Dubbert - 27 Feb. 2009 at 12:58pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bandsaws Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Mar. 2009 at 9:47pm
I own a Cj2a that somebody took off the governor( it still has the governor handle) The warning says"Do not engage while engine is running" this makes no sense. Somebody please tell me the proper operating off a Cj2a governor
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lowenuf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Mar. 2009 at 11:38pm
that warning tag actually only pertained to the 2 governors that preceeded the NOVI, the King-Seeley and the  Monarch, the K-S/Monarch required the engine to be turned off to engage/disengage the governor, the NOVI is always in "run" mode, therefore the warning tag had no bearing....but Willys never changed the tag.....low
45 #10012
45 #10033 ACM #47
45 #10163 ACM #188
57 CJ5    Dauntless V6, T-18 4-speed, D-44 rear/D-30 front, D-20 twin stick



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bandsaws Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Mar. 2009 at 11:05pm
Thankyou for your responce. I thought that the novi governor was a single speed type and was only found on the stationary engines. The governor I am looking for is the Kingseely because I was told that if you shroud had a notch that was the type, yes?

Edited by bandsaws - 03 Mar. 2009 at 11:06pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lowenuf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Mar. 2009 at 12:52am

the King-Seeleys and Monarchs were used on the 45/46/early47 2A's respectively, they did find their way to 48 2A's, but by 1948, the NOVI was the only governor offered...the notch in the shroud remained throughout 2A production, though the NOVI did not require the use of the notch, Willys never changed the shroud design until the release of the 3A....

the NOVI wasn't the governor for the stationary engines neither.....
 
An earlier version of the King-Seeley was 1st used, then replaced by HOOF/Pierce and eventually Hobart brand governors..... 
 
:)  low
45 #10012
45 #10033 ACM #47
45 #10163 ACM #188
57 CJ5    Dauntless V6, T-18 4-speed, D-44 rear/D-30 front, D-20 twin stick



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote clausnam Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Apr. 2009 at 10:14am
Hi,
 
I am writing from South Africa and would really like to get hold of Alan who reproduces the Warning Plate for the governor. Could someone please give me any contact details or info where to buy one from the net.
 
Kind Regards
Claus
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote trader_reed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Apr. 2009 at 7:45pm
He's banned from this site now
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote uglyjeep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 June 2012 at 7:18pm
Hello folks,

I have had more than a few requests for information about rebuilding these governors, so I thought I would post up some information that my help.  I hope that this is still accurate, as I am going from notes made a few years ago. 

A note on bearings and seals...look for quality made parts from suppliers such as SKF/CR (Chicago Rawhide), Timken and Torrington, as these governors run constantly when the engine is running.


The front bearing on the governor is a 6202 series ball bearing.  If you use a SKF 6202VV with double seals, it may help prevent front shaft leaks.   You can pull the inner seal out with a small pick, if you want this bearing open to the governors oil supply.

The rear shaft bearing is a closed end needle type bearing, and I believe the part number is M-78.  This bearing you will note is a closed end bearing in a blind hole.  The depth of this bearing in the housing determines the end play of the governor's main shaft.  With the new front ball bearing already in place on the main shaft, press the new rear needle bearing partially into the rear governor housing and assemble the case halves with a new case gasket (factory gasket is about 0.015" thick, if I recall correctly) and tighten the bolts carefully.  If the end play disappears before the bolts for the case halves are tight, the rear bearing is too shallow.  Gradually and carefully increase the depth of this rear bearing until the end play at the nose of the shaft is about 0.003 inch.  Be careful, because if the bearing presses in too far, you may have to remove it and start over with a new bearing, since removing this bearing will likely damage it.  This M-78 type bearing is harder to find, and it is expensive, so do this procedure carefully!
      Alternatively, you can use a less expensive, and easier to obtain BH-78 bearing, which is a double open end bearing.  But if you use the BH-78 bearing, you will need to machine a spacer from bearing bronze or brass to sit between the rear of the shaft and the governor case.  It is more time consuming to gradually machine down the spacer to adjust the end play, but the difference in bearing costs may justify the extra time spent.

The front shaft seal is equivalent to CR/SKF # 4355

The rocker shaft seal is equivalent to CR/SKF # 3687

The rocker shaft uses two needle bearings, a M-6101X closed end bearing on the side opposite the control arms, and a B-610 open bearing on the arm side.  The M-610 series bearing is also expensive and harder to find compared to the B-610.  You can use two of the less expensive B-610 bearings on the rocker shaft, and then plug the end of the shaft bore with a 9/16" diameter, cup type, automotive freeze plug.  Use Permatex # 1 to seal the plug in the rocker shaft bore.  I also trim about 1/8" off of the rim of the freeze plug cup, so that the freeze plug can be set flush with the end of the rocker shaft bore, otherwise it will likely be too tall.

I have yet to find a suitable replacement for the ball thrust bearing used for the rocker shaft fork.  If someone finds a replacement please let us know. 

I hope that this helps, please let me know if you have any questions or amendments.

Daniel

Edited by uglyjeep - 10 June 2012 at 2:51am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dirtboy170 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Dec. 2012 at 2:20pm
Danial
I'm going to start to tear down my Novi Governor some time after the New Year, can i contact you directley for help and advice? My Email is dirtboy170@yahoo.com thanks for posting the info above it will be very helpful.
Kevin
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote OnlyOneDR Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 June 2021 at 3:17pm
Updating information in this thread since I just went through finding the main shaft bearings for someone else's Novi to rebuild.

The rear bearing was originally a Torrington MM781X and is obsolete.  The modern NSK bearing is an MH781.  These are not expensive as stated above, they are about $7 each.  Removing them is a challenge if you do not have a proper closed end bearing puller.  A inexpensive set from Amazon did not cut it; I had to order a nice OTC puller set (part number 4581) to get the bearing out.

The front bearing is a 6202 series, I used an SKF 6202.2RS and pulled one side seal out.  These are also about $7 each.

What was surprising during disassembly was that there was a brass sleeve/spacer ring inside the ID on this front  bearing that had a slip fit over the main shaft.  I had not seen this documented anywhere.  The original spacer was worn in the governor I worked on so I had to have a friend with a lathe cut a new one to fit.

The front seal is very easy to deform/damage when pressing in, be sure to carefully align everything before starting it in the bore.


Edited by OnlyOneDR - 03 July 2021 at 10:18am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote SwannyEmpire Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Aug. 2023 at 12:25pm
Thought I'd interject my experience with a couple of points made by earlier posters.  I'm rebuilding the Novi governor on my '47 Empire, which has the L134 Go Devil.

First-that rear drawn cup, closed-end needle bearing is not terribly easy to find(MH781).  Or at least not at a low cost.  I ended up paying about $38 with shipping.  Hoping it goes in correctly the first time.

Next-removal of the old one, at least for me, didn't require any specialized puller.  I was able to draw it out with the help of a 1/2" bolt.  First did maybe 1/2 to 1 turn with a 1/2" thread tap to enable the bolt to get a bite on the old bearing.  Then after threading a nut onto the bolt, carefully screwed the bolt into the end of the bearing.  Again only needing maybe 1/2 a turn after the bolt caught the thread.  Then with a couple pieces of flat stock under the nut, I turned it down until the bearing eased right out.  DIY redneck puller!  Glad I didn't need to invest in that expensive puller mentioned earlier.



I also picked up some gasket sheets from Fel-Pro & made new gaskets for several applications on the engine, including the governor.  Seems like an easier solution than trying to track down OEM, or glopping it up with Permatex.



Hope the above helps others in the same predicament.  Earlier posts certainly helped me!

Steve


Edited by SwannyEmpire - 28 Aug. 2023 at 3:33pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote OnlyOneDR Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Sep. 2023 at 2:19pm
Originally posted by SwannyEmpire SwannyEmpire wrote:

First-that rear drawn cup, closed-end needle bearing is not terribly easy to find(MH781).  Or at least not at a low cost.  I ended up paying about $38 with shipping.  Hoping it goes in correctly the first time.

Next-removal of the old one, at least for me, didn't require any specialized puller.  I was able to draw it out with the help of a 1/2" bolt.  First did maybe 1/2 to 1 turn with a 1/2" thread tap to enable the bolt to get a bite on the old bearing.  Then after threading a nut onto the bolt, carefully screwed the bolt into the end of the bearing.  Again only needing maybe 1/2 a turn after the bolt caught the thread.  Then with a couple pieces of flat stock under the nut, I turned it down until the bearing eased right out.  DIY redneck puller!  Glad I didn't need to invest in that expensive puller mentioned earlier.

Looks like the cost on these MH781 bearings shot way up.  Same vendor I bought the last one from now asks $26+10 shipping.

Since I was working on someone else's NOVI and did not have one of my own to sacrifice if something went wrong I did the expensive puller to protect his parts.  Had it been my own then maybe the bolt through the bearing cup would have been okay.  I like the ingenuity!
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