Oil in cylinder no. three |
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48willys
Member Joined: 22 June 2007 Location: sw/ virginia Status: Offline Points: 1340 |
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It could be the crack has made its way down the spark plug threads. It may just be it looks like oil leakage because cylinder gases are leaking past the spark plug. A diagnosis from a shop you trust would be a good idea.
I’m guessing a replacement head is probably expensive there, so it’s probably worth paying a shop to do some basic testing so you don’t replace more than necessary. |
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1946 cj2a #28680
1948 chevy 3800 thriftmaster 1946-50's cj2a-3a farm jeep 1993 yj, aka the yj7 |
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Durstig
Member Joined: 14 July 2020 Location: Germany Status: Offline Points: 23 |
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With all your input in mind and with what I see by myself, I think the following:
Head is cracked (obviously!) and the valves on Cylinder #3 are somehow faulty. The oil gets sucked up through the faulty valves and finds its way to spark plug pit #3 through the crack in the head. I don't think it's a piston/cylinder problem, cylinder #3 is definetly not dead. Yesterday I found an NOS cylinder head of a 1946 CJ2A for a good price, so I won't mess around with the cracked head. First step, I plan to remove the cracked head. Here is how I would proceed: 1. drain cooling system 2. remove thermostat housing, carburetor and intake and exhaust manifold 3. remove the head I am pretty sure, I then will find some hints in cylinder #3 valve area... Is there something special, I have to consider? |
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48willys
Member Joined: 22 June 2007 Location: sw/ virginia Status: Offline Points: 1340 |
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That sounds good, the only thing I would put off is taking the manifolds off.
The rear stud on the exhaust manifold is bad for breaking off, so unless you need to remove them its probably not worth it. You should be able to inspect and remove the valves with the head off and the valve cover off. |
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1946 cj2a #28680
1948 chevy 3800 thriftmaster 1946-50's cj2a-3a farm jeep 1993 yj, aka the yj7 |
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TERRY
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 22 May 2007 Location: BOULDER COLORADO Status: Offline Points: 3400 |
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Yes, I strongly agree, don't mess with the manifolds unless absolutely necessary. Been there, snapped rear stud, broke off "easy out". What a PITA
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BOULDER 48 2A
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SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A
Member Sponsor Member x 3 Joined: 22 Jan. 2016 Location: S.E. Kansas Status: Offline Points: 3190 |
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X2!!! |
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46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red" (bought April 1969)(second owner)(12 V, 11" brakes, M-38 frame, MD Juan tub)
U.S. Coast Guard Chief Petty Officer(ret.) U.S. Army Vietnam veteran and damned proud of it. |
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cpt logger
Member Joined: 23 Sep. 2012 Location: Western Colorad Status: Offline Points: 3040 |
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X3!
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Oldpappy
Member Joined: 09 Apr. 2018 Location: Tennessee Status: Offline Points: 4903 |
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Yep, saw some other post where someone was about to remove the manifolds to adjust the valves. Not a good idea.
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If you can't get there in a Jeep you don't need to be there!
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General Eisenhower
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 24 Aug. 2018 Location: DE Status: Offline Points: 1698 |
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This is were brass nuts come in handy, course after a few removals youd probably have to change em, the brass gets tired unlike steel, but it doesnt rust at least
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I Like Ike!
1948 CJ2a "Hefty Horse" 1994 Jeep Wrangler Sahara 2016 Jeep JKU 75th anniversary edition |
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cpt logger
Member Joined: 23 Sep. 2012 Location: Western Colorad Status: Offline Points: 3040 |
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Relative to the time it takes to replace a broken off stud, Brass nuts are cheap! I replace any on my rigs exhaust that even look like they may need it. I also use Kopr Kote anti-seize. IME, it helps keep the nuts from seizing. Of course if you drive on salted roads, or live near the beach, it is all a crap shoot & may not help.
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TERRY
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 22 May 2007 Location: BOULDER COLORADO Status: Offline Points: 3400 |
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But , you can't use the brass nuts until you have removed the steel ones and likely snapped a stud.
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BOULDER 48 2A
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WeeWilly
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 07 May 2009 Location: Clayton IN Status: Offline Points: 3423 |
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I prefer steel nuts installed with anti-seize instead of brass or stainless steel and have had no problem removing them. After working on jet engine turbines section that used anti-seize on the fasteners made a believer of me.
Jim
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47 CJ2A (Ranch Hand) 48 CJ2A, 48 Willys truck, T3C 3782, M274 (Military Mule)
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General Eisenhower
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 24 Aug. 2018 Location: DE Status: Offline Points: 1698 |
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Living in the northeast sector, around both road salt and saltwater I just dont even wanna try.... however I do try to avoid both with the old jeep
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I Like Ike!
1948 CJ2a "Hefty Horse" 1994 Jeep Wrangler Sahara 2016 Jeep JKU 75th anniversary edition |
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WeeWilly
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 07 May 2009 Location: Clayton IN Status: Offline Points: 3423 |
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I should have said that I lived most of my 77 years in the in the Ohio valley about 40 miles south of Pittsburgh PA, the rust belt of the nation with all the steel mills and power plants in that area.
Jm
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47 CJ2A (Ranch Hand) 48 CJ2A, 48 Willys truck, T3C 3782, M274 (Military Mule)
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Oldpappy
Member Joined: 09 Apr. 2018 Location: Tennessee Status: Offline Points: 4903 |
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When I encounter a frozen nut, that won't free with penetrating oil or heat, before putting enough force on it to break anything I will split the nut to get it off, especially on small studs like those used for the exhaust manifold.
If there is room for a nut splitter I use that, if not I use something else. I have used sharp chisels, and Dremel cut off wheels to get nuts off. The rear exhaust stud is difficult to get to, but removing the fender helps and is easier than drilling out a broken stud.
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If you can't get there in a Jeep you don't need to be there!
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WeeWilly
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 07 May 2009 Location: Clayton IN Status: Offline Points: 3423 |
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X2 Jim
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47 CJ2A (Ranch Hand) 48 CJ2A, 48 Willys truck, T3C 3782, M274 (Military Mule)
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Oldpappy
Member Joined: 09 Apr. 2018 Location: Tennessee Status: Offline Points: 4903 |
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Most of the time heat will do the trick. I use a MAP torch which is hotter than propane but not as hot as acetylene.
All four of the fender bracket bolts on my 47 were rusted so bad only about a 1/4" remained of the bolts. I got all four out by heating them cherry red, tapping them with a hammer while still hot, letting them cool to where they were just warm before adding some Kroil, and then clamping on some Vice Grips.
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If you can't get there in a Jeep you don't need to be there!
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