Forum Home Forum Home > CJ-2A Discussion Area > Tech Questions and Answers
  New Posts New Posts RSS Feed - Oil Leak
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Events   Register Register  Login Login

Oil Leak

 Post Reply Post Reply Page  12>
Author
Message
Lhead View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 01 Mar. 2018
Location: Valley Ctr CA
Status: Offline
Points: 113
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Oil Leak
    Posted: 02 May 2019 at 11:58pm
Finally after wading through 10 miles of Calif DMV red tape, I can drive my CJ2. The engine has been rebuilt. I have maybe 75 miles on it so far, mostly very short drives (2-3 miles). After a longer drive (5-10 miles), it pukes oil after stopping. Seems to puke out a couple ounces from the drain hole in the bell housing indicating a rear main leak. My question is, is there any chance the rear main seal will settle in after a few more miles or am I dreaming? It is a rope rear main type seal. Thanks, Larry
Back to Top
willyt View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 31 July 2018
Location: Seneca,SC
Status: Offline
Points: 129
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote willyt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 May 2019 at 8:05am

My jeep sat for a few years before I purchased it. It had a small seal leak, which got bigger, I also hoped would go away. It didn't. I tried a can of seal leak stop stuff, didn't phase it. Mine was a two piece neoprene Victor seal. The stop leak stuff may work better with a rope seal, but the only good coming out of it will probably be the stores profit line. lol

1952 CJ3A (Lil'Green)
early M38A1(Ole Green)
1970 Jeepster Commando
Back to Top
Lhead View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 01 Mar. 2018
Location: Valley Ctr CA
Status: Offline
Points: 113
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 May 2019 at 10:35am
I'm afraid you are right Willyt. I was really careful putting the seals in, leaving a bit exposed to compress. Same with the rubber plugs that seal the rear main cap. Obviously something didn't seal. I'll drive it for awhile like it is mainly because I don't have time to fix it right now. Looking at my profile picture compared to yours, It looks like I chopped, channelled, and widened my jeep through the magic of photo editing. I guess I'll try reducing the size of the pic again to get the right proportions. Thanks, Larry
Larry
46 CJ2A L134
33 Ford Merc Flathead
Back to Top
willyt View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 31 July 2018
Location: Seneca,SC
Status: Offline
Points: 129
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote willyt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 May 2019 at 11:45am
Now that you mention it  I looked at mine and it seems short in length and then tall. I will leave it alone, I was lucky to just get it posted. lol
 
I went with the Best Gasket rubber seal. I have just installed it, I'm waiting on the arrival of my carb then I'm nervously going to fire it up. Fingers crossed.
1952 CJ3A (Lil'Green)
early M38A1(Ole Green)
1970 Jeepster Commando
Back to Top
smfulle View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar
Sponsor Member

Joined: 16 Sep. 2010
Location: Ogden, Utah
Status: Offline
Points: 4712
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 May 2019 at 3:56pm
Transmission front will drip out that same hole in the bell housing. Tough to tell the difference sometimes.
Stan
48 CJ2A (Grampa's Jeep)
59 Chevy 1/2 ton
Grampa's Jeep Build Thread
Back to Top
Lhead View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 01 Mar. 2018
Location: Valley Ctr CA
Status: Offline
Points: 113
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 May 2019 at 4:56pm
I put a new sealed front bearing in the transmission and plugged the return hole so it shouldn't be coming out of the transmission, at least in theory. I've had the pan off 3 times and finally got it to stop leaking. Looks like it will be coming off again. This engine serial # is 4T31539 so I think that means truck and probably a later model. So from some earlier threads I read on here, it might require the neoprene (or whatever) seal vs the rope seal i have in there. Guess I'll learn more when I pull the pan.

Back to Top
cpt logger View Drop Down
Member
Member


Joined: 23 Sep. 2012
Location: Western Colorad
Status: Offline
Points: 1494
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cpt logger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 May 2019 at 4:58pm
Originally posted by smfulle smfulle wrote:

Transmission front will drip out that same hole in the bell housing. Tough to tell the difference sometimes.


For me the easiest way for me to tell the difference between engine oil & gear lube is by the smell. Gear lube is very potent. If you are unsure what fluid is leaking, get a sample from a piece of cardboard set below the leak. Then compare the smell of the sample to the engine oil on the dipstick. If you are unsure if it is engine oil or not...It is! Gear lube has a very different odor.

Of course it could be both. I know, I know, hush my mouth.
Back to Top
Lhead View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 01 Mar. 2018
Location: Valley Ctr CA
Status: Offline
Points: 113
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 May 2019 at 5:14pm
Well, it passed the smell test so I guess it's off with the pan. Someone recommended that pulling the engine is the best way to fix the rear seal. That seems like a ton of work to me but I can see their point. I have new both rope and neoprene seals. I guess I'll see which one fits better.
Back to Top
67charger View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 27 Sep. 2011
Location: Kentucky
Status: Offline
Points: 1213
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 67charger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 May 2019 at 5:30pm
Make sure the crank surface the seal rides on is smooth with no pitting or grooves. It will leak if its not smooth
Back to Top
willyt View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 31 July 2018
Location: Seneca,SC
Status: Offline
Points: 129
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote willyt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 May 2019 at 8:49pm
What seal are you using Lhead?

Who are the better manufactures of the neoprene seals?



1952 CJ3A (Lil'Green)
early M38A1(Ole Green)
1970 Jeepster Commando
Back to Top
67charger View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 27 Sep. 2011
Location: Kentucky
Status: Offline
Points: 1213
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 67charger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 May 2019 at 9:05pm
I don't know what my seal is, it's old and not leaking too much "knock on wood".  I just know that the seal surface is as important as the seal.  It's amazing how a rubber lip seal can groove a piece of metal.
Back to Top
Bruce W View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 29 July 2005
Location: Northeast Colorado
Status: Offline
Points: 5755
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 May 2019 at 12:00am
Originally posted by Lhead Lhead wrote:

I was really careful putting the seals in, leaving a bit exposed to compress.

  The extra you left is now probably between the rear main cap and the block, not allowing the cap to seat correctly, allowing oil to run between the cap and block, and causing uneven wear on the bearing. The rope seal should be cut off flush with the block and the cap.  BW
Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You!

We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep.
Back to Top
Lhead View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 01 Mar. 2018
Location: Valley Ctr CA
Status: Offline
Points: 113
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 May 2019 at 11:49am
I'll know more when I pull the pan this afternoon. I just ordered Walck"s USA made seal kit. Not sure who made it. I have both rope and neoprene main seals here but I don't have any of the main cap seals so I ordered the high priced kit. I'll pull the pan and remove the rear main cap so I can see what is going on. First I'll inspect the condition of the crankshaft seal surface. It it's nasty, I'm not sure what I'll do next. Stay tuned and thanks for all the help and suggestions! Larry...
Back to Top
Thad View Drop Down
Member
Member


Joined: 05 Jan. 2017
Location: Nobleboro Me
Status: Offline
Points: 119
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Thad Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 May 2019 at 8:03pm
I have installed 3 neoprene seals with no luck. I have pulled the engine and found The clutch needs replacement and that the crank where the seal rides was pitted and could not be turned b/c of small diameter. I've had this area of the crank built up and turned to 2.311 and am ready to install with a rope seal. The cost for this one surface to be made new again was $60, a guide for what to expect. Sure hope it no longer leaks. I sure feel your pain but this might be your best way to proceed.
Thad
Life is short. Buy a jeep
Back to Top
Lhead View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 01 Mar. 2018
Location: Valley Ctr CA
Status: Offline
Points: 113
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 May 2019 at 8:55pm
Thanks Thad. Tomorrow I'm pulling the pan and rear main cap to see if I can figure out what is going on. I'll post my findings tomorrow. I'm sure hoping I don't have to pull the engine and crank but I guess I'll find out. 

Larry..
Back to Top
Bufordjeep View Drop Down
Member
Member


Joined: 12 Aug. 2009
Location: Illinois
Status: Offline
Points: 311
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bufordjeep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 May 2019 at 10:40pm
Larry am in the same boat.   Hope to hear good news.
May the flat fender force be with you,

Back to Top
Lhead View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 01 Mar. 2018
Location: Valley Ctr CA
Status: Offline
Points: 113
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 May 2019 at 1:00am
I've been thinking about the seal issue. Probably overthinking it! But it seems to me that the rubber or neoprene type modern seal would only contact the crankshaft in a very small portion of the surface, e.g. only a few thousands. That small area would be prone to significant wear creating a groove that would make the replacement with similar seals have a difficult time sealing. On the other hand, a rope type seal would spread the seal contact area over a much wider portion of the crankshaft possibly mitigating some crankshaft imperfections. Of course there is no way a rope seal could outperform a well functioning modern neoprene seal in a perfect scenario but maybe it would work better with a less than perfect crankshaft surface area. 

Further to that thinking, while the neoprene seal might have a better seal to the crankshaft, it might not be sealing on its outer perimeter, e.g.against the block and main cap. It seems this might be a critical installation issue considering that the block was originally designed for rope seals. 

I'll know more tomorrow.

Larry...


Back to Top
willyt View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 31 July 2018
Location: Seneca,SC
Status: Offline
Points: 129
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote willyt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 May 2019 at 8:12am
Larry if it's not to late, when you install the upper half of the seal, look closely where the lips touch the crank. On my install one end of the seal flattens out and has good contact on the crank, on the other end only the tip of the lip touches the crank. That condition may change when the cap is installed and things are compressed. Just curious to know. Thanks
 
1952 CJ3A (Lil'Green)
early M38A1(Ole Green)
1970 Jeepster Commando
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply Page  12>
  Share Topic   

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 12.01
Copyright ©2001-2018 Web Wiz Ltd.