Oil Lines

Made both my lines,the one from block to top of filter and, the one from timing cover to bottom of oil filter housing using the polymer type steel line.It is easier to bend than the silver steel line.Do not know the length but,use one good end flare and make your self the other after you have cut the line for proper fit.Much better than the remake rubber ones which have a tendancy to give way at the crimped end.Have not had a leak since doing this.

Go to the Fram Oil Filter install sheet and click on it for good illustration.

http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/topic1377_post8122.html

The rubber oil lines from Walck's are $15 to $16.  By the time you buy your fittings (flared and pipe threads) you may have that much in them.  But, a smartly bent set of metal lines would be sharp.

Good thread on fittings.  (is that a pun?)

http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/oil-lines-revisited_topic4568.html


Edited by ralf - 21 Jan. 2012 at 10:43pm

I had metal lines on my DJ......and they cracked apart and dumped oil all over the engine. So, as it was a weekend, I replaced them with more metal. I'm going to put flexible lines back on eventually.

Ahhhh, I'll have to look there.  Fuel pump needs to come off then to put in the fitting?

Question answered

I am pretty sure that is blood on the MB fuel pump with primer lever.  If I had a dollar for every knuckle I busted.......

oh, and my pump (though it has a glass bowl) also has the primer lever.  Because I have cobbled fuel lines for now, I use that to see if the jeep will start.  If the primer will pump up the gas, it'll start, if it doesn't I need to add a bit to give it it's weekly run.

heat, and pb blaster with all fuel components far far away?  I'm going to struggle with it a little on tuesday night.  If you have a square plug get the right socket, 8 point or 4 point not 12 point.  if you have a hex plug, 6 point, and if you have a recessed plug (like an allen) use an allen wrench and if it's square socket right in there.  Send me a picture of what your plug looks like and I'll let you know If I've got any tricks for what you are working with.

4 or 8 point socket.  It's one you'll never use again so if you're getting close to stripping it, get one that seems real close to not fitting on there, even if you have to tap it on.  If it breaks, you can always tap a punch into the middle of it, drill it out, and peel it off of the threads.  Just make sure you run a magnet through your oil pan if you do it.  But really you can't beat heat and a bigg @$$ breaker bar.  In theory, it should be pretty darn well lubricated from the oil pump.  and from the sounds of things, take off your fuel pump.