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OMG my second biggest nightmare

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Mark W. View Drop Down
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    Posted: 06 Dec. 2017 at 11:34pm
So tonight the wife walks in the downstairs bath and says something sounds like running water. Sure enough I go in and you can hear the pipes. I check everything in the house and the outside hose bibs. NOTHING IS LEAKING

I drag stuff away from the tiny crawl space access in the Garage/shop and sure enough water. I'm almost positive one of the old galvanized pipes has started leaking. Our house was built in 1923 at some time in the 60's it was raised up and put on a foundation. And its like 18" if that between the floor and dirt. And with a bunch of beams that are way closer then that.

Luckily all the plumbing is through the floor NONE of it is in a wall. Some of it is copper. I think the leak is right where the supply line comes in under the shop floor (almost 8" of concrete) thats the closest area to where the water appears not that I can see all of the area under the house as about 1/2 of it has a FRECKIN layer of packing peanuts on it. years ago I stored a few bags of packing peanuts under my workbench where the crawl space access is and I guess some freckin opossum thought that should be spread all over under the house.

SO tonight the plan is to turn off the water. Then turn it on for morning showers and such Wife will turn it off again. I of course have to be back at work this week. WHY couldn't this have happened last week when I was home???

This weekend my son is coming down and I think we are going to repipe the underside of the house with PEX and if we are lucky we can do it with out ever getting under the house.

Anyone know of a R/C truck with enough power to pull a para cord 30 ft under a house LOL.

Looks like not much is getting done on Chug A Lug for a while.
 
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Unkamonkey View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Unkamonkey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Dec. 2017 at 1:38am
Good luck.
You should have been around when my vacuum breaker for the sprinkler system decided to fail, only about 4' of water down there. I took the day off.

Edited by Unkamonkey - 07 Dec. 2017 at 1:45am
uncamonkey
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nofender Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Dec. 2017 at 9:30am
Good luck....

If it makes you feel any better, we haven't had heat since Saturday. Furnace decided not to do furnace stuff anymore. So after fiddling with it for a couple days, it was determined the heat exchanger is gone. So there is a crew here at the house replacing everything.

no jeep parts for a good long while now..... 
46 CJ2 rockcrawler, 46 CJ2A semi-stocker resto mod in progress, 48 CJ2A that needs love
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TERRY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Dec. 2017 at 10:19am
My pressure reducer failed a few years back and the resulting 150psi+ in the house caused the water heater to explode! I hate the sound of water running!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joe Friday Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Dec. 2017 at 3:11pm
I'm currently helping a friend settle a water bill for 489,920 gallons that leaked out after a pipe broke at his seasonal residence. Apparently the plumber claimed to have winterized it but didn't.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Unkamonkey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Dec. 2017 at 3:59pm
WEEEEL, several years ago a guy I was working for decided to set up some carpenter, plumbers and electrical guys basically under one roof. Joel would forget to solder a joint so there we ended up with a flood. Twice. We nick named him Noah. A few weeks ago a trusted plumber friend changed out my water heater. I wandered in after about an hour and no hot water. He had hooked up the water lines backwards.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote leecarr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Dec. 2017 at 5:43pm
My house is over 250 years years old and 3/4 of it is crawl space, I have a pipe under my kitchen that freezes up maybe once a year, it's a least 15' in the crawl space. I drag in a cord and the heat gun and also the garden hose, if I ever started a fire I'd never get out alive. It's kind of dry and dusty under there, hasn't been any water under there since the Civil War. For some reason it's not as easy to get in there as it was 40 years ago. The big white one on the right is mine, this is about 1900 when part of it was a store and post office.


Edited by leecarr - 07 Dec. 2017 at 6:09pm
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Ol' Unreliable View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ol' Unreliable Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Dec. 2017 at 9:48pm
Originally posted by Mark W. Mark W. wrote:

Anyone know of a R/C truck with enough power to pull a para cord 30 ft under a house LOL.


Just last weekend, I saw a R/C Jeep at Wally World that I thought was soooooo cool: it's called "Dash Cam"  It has a camera somewhere on the front and you wear these "virtual reality" goggles and you can drive it without watching the toy itself.  It was only $56.  I almost bought it, but I found you need a smart phone or something to make it work.  That might be the thing to drive under the house.  You might need extra light, though.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Dec. 2017 at 10:21pm
Well I stood and started at the PEX pipe stuff at Home depot for 30 min and talked to a guy there who had a lot of experiance with it. I now have a plan of attack. I'm going to get all the stuff out of the way tomorrow and get ready for serious work. My son is coming down Sat morning and we aren't stopping until its done.


Or we have to go to work monday!
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oilleaker1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Dec. 2017 at 7:36am
I once asked how a Hamm radio guy strung his antenna so high up on a ridge tree . He said he shot a bow and arrow set up with a string attached. Then pulled the antenna up to the tree top via the rope or string. Maybe you can do the same and pull in your pex. LOL
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Mark W. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Dec. 2017 at 4:05pm
SO I moved a pile of stuff under a work table to get to where the supply line from the water meter connects to the actual house system. And while there will be a little concrete chiseling and some of the sill board needing to be cut back. As long as the galvanized connection will unscrew I should be OK on this end.

The supply comes in to a valve (does not appear to be operational anymore and not going to mess with it) then it turns 90 degrees straight up ending in a 1/2" NPT Female coupler. Which makes connection much easier.

 On top of this is a galv. Tee one side going to a short piece of 1/2" galv. and then making a 90 degree and disappearing through the sill under the house. The other side has a mess of an adapter thingy that ends up in a piece of 1/2" copper that is the supply for the upstairs bath so its going straight up the wall (outside the wall technically in the shop part of the house) So again as things go a very easy access. I cut this with a small tubing cutter bevel it and its ready for a sharkfit connector to PEX. The other end of the Tee went to a section of 1/2" pipe that in about 15" made a 90 and disappeared through the foundation headed to the kitchen sink 24 ft away.

I cut this off the Tee and then removed the Tee so I now have just the 1/2 NPT Female coupler as a connection point between the Supply line and the rest of the house.

I now need to do one of two things

1. Run a line of PEX to the Kitchen Sink and Tee at that point to the Water Heater/downstairs bath line.

2. Run a PEX line to the Water Heater/ Downstairs Bath lines and a separate PEX line to the Kitchen Sink. I kind of like the two line idea.

Time for lunch and I'll figure it out.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote leecarr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Dec. 2017 at 5:12pm
I get an anxiety attack just reading what you did,for what it's worth I like the 2 line idea too and you can never have too many shut offs,ball valves are cheap now. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joe Friday Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Dec. 2017 at 10:28pm
Unless he's on well water or regulating his city water to about 60 PSI I get the anxiety about the Sharx connectors. My experience is they last about 3 years before the stainless teeth carve a groove in  the plastic pipe or the soft copper and they fly apart at the worst times.
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Mark W. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Dec. 2017 at 10:29pm
My son came by this afternoon and we moved the freezer out of its spot and with only a little bit of destruction we were able to get to the mess of plumbing that is the downstairs bath water heater and the line going to one of the outside hose bibs. We found the one place we can cut the line coming in from the kitchen (man I hope that piece of pipe will unscrew from the Tee so I can Plug it).

We will tomorrow morning cut out a 12 x 18 access hole under the kitchen sink to see just which way we are going to route this mess.

Hoping to be at Home depot before Noon buying stuff. and back home to install.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ol' Unreliable Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Dec. 2017 at 12:08am
Good luck with it!  (I need a "crossed fingers" emoji...)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 67charger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Dec. 2017 at 8:45am
Good luck with the galvanized piping that stuff is a pain in the arse.  Make sure you have a good pipe wrench maybe even two.  Sometimes you can hit the fittings with a hammer to loosen the rust.  Another idea would be a strap wrench.

When I work with galvanized pipe I will flush the line after messing with it or you could plug your toilet valve etc with rust particles.


Edited by 67charger - 09 Dec. 2017 at 8:47am
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Mark W. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Dec. 2017 at 11:13am
Yea I'm all good for pipe wrenches I have them from 8" to 24" and Huge channel locks and even a Vise grip thing with a Chain for pipe. As far as I can tell at the point we are this morning. I have one pipe to cut while reaching through a hole the size of a cement block and then I need to unscrew the stub. This gives me my new supply point where I will attach the new line coming in from the Old supply point at the edge of the shop floor. Then I will cut off a copper stub and use that to run the cold line to the Kitchen sink and the hose bib on the outside of the house opposite the kitchen sink.

I'll either have to cut and unscrew a galv. connection at that point of if that doesn't work I'll come all the way to the shut off valve under the sink and figure out another way to supply the hose bib.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Mark W. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Dec. 2017 at 10:48pm
Home depot $173
ACE               $63

New shut off valve and connections for all line at the point of supply Insulated ................ CHECK
New Cold Line to Water Heater / Down Stairs Bath insulated............................................. CHECK
New Cold Line to Kitchen Sink Insulated...................................In place but not attached at sink end
New Hot Line from Water Heater to Kitchen Sink Insulated......In place but not attached at sink end

Tomorrow

New line to Upstairs Bath (only a straight 5ft run)
New Line to relocated Front Yard Hose Bib (this will be now insulated from Supply to Bib)
New South Side Hose Bib (this will come through the wall under the Kitchen Sink)

The son says we have to be done tomorrow by 6pm as that's when he's leaving.

WHAT A PITA.

No JEEP WORK



Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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