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Omix Sector Shaft Safety Warning Fellows!!!!!!!

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RICKG View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RICKG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Sep. 2016 at 3:05pm
Thank you Russ, Requesting permission to copy your fotos and post them on other sites where John and I issued the warning.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Sep. 2016 at 3:05pm
Are you sure that the OEM part was welded? I believe that it is a one piece forging with the critical dimensions ground to size much like a crankshaft. This makes sense from a manufacturing standpoint for strength. Even the very best welding job can cause stresses in the part that could break adjacent to the weld even if the weld itself doesn't break.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Sep. 2016 at 5:20pm
 Mike Gardner said, "The warranty should cover the broken parts."
  That'll be real comforting when you're under your upside-down jeep in a ditch, or in the wrong lane facing oncoming traffic, or tumbling down a mountainside.   
  The diameter of the shaft is reduced from 7/8" to 5/8", leaving a sharp corner (stress riser) right at the point of most stress. It's only welded on the "outboard" side, leaving the weakest part of the shaft as a place to flex. I'm not a metallurgist or an engineer, but I can see that it's just plain stupid. If Ross had thought that 5/8" was enough diameter to give the shaft the strength it needed, they would have built it with a 5/8" shaft.
  My CJ2-A and CJ3B both have had their steering gears rebuilt within the last few years, and as soon as I can, I will pull the covers off of both and check their levers. Not to mention Tiny's 2A, and another whose gear I rebuilt recently.OuchAngry                BW
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joe Friday Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Sep. 2016 at 5:54pm
I also called them but left a message.

The original design ross shaft, Willys part number A-746 was Ross T124000-462 as an assembly.
It was made from 1040 steel with a grain size of 5-7, and hardened and drawn to BHN 241-286.

It was not two pieces.

The radius shown in Russ's picture was 3/16" radius, and there was a hardened insert in the area where the steering lash adjuster screw contacted the "levershaft".
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lew Ladwig Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Sep. 2016 at 8:01pm
I agree Bruce.  This should be a drop forged one piece deal with a nice radius machined as the shaft approaches the flat face.  Then the shaft surface should be heat treated to harden just the surface. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BENSH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Sep. 2016 at 5:22am
Well the photo RUSSNJ posted leaves no doubt as to the original design and production VS the two broken two part reproductions but I doubt there is a snowballs chance Crown or Omix are going to pay a mfg. to do it right, so what are the options, are there any other choices?

Perhaps guys like joefriday could build up originals then machine them down to correct tolerance, then heat treat and still be able to market them in their shop for under $$$$.

So this is what we face when restoring antique vehicles, left to the mercy of...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Oilleaker1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Sep. 2016 at 11:31am
After reading all the comments about bellcranks, draglinks, and now sectors, it's becoming obvious that we should take things into our own hands. There is room for a re-build service to simply repair the originals or build repair parts that solve the wear issues. We should boycott these off shore or inferior products until someone proves that a new product is good. I'm now having to go back into a rebuilt steering box, I've already had to make my own solution to a ill-fitting bellcrank kit with a machinist's hand made bushing, and now my synchroniser assembly that never shifted right. I believe it too is offshore. All new, grinds all the time . I'm darn tired of junk. The big thing here right now is to get that piece of junk sector out of your Jeep ! This part can kill you or your loved ones in a accident caused by it's breakage. Tell all of your Jeep friends about this. Some will not see this warning. Thanks fellows. John
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oilleaker1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Sep. 2016 at 12:12pm
Type in Omix Ada Sector in Willys Jeep vintage parts for sale on ebay. There are a bunch for sale, still up. Nothing is happening at the dealer front obviously. Wow. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joe DeYoung Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Sep. 2016 at 1:43pm
WOW, that's shocking given the amount to liability involved.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote danover321 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Sep. 2016 at 2:03pm
Hello everyone, I just wanted to point out that the online merchants and Ebay sellers don't stock the majority of their parts in-house.  Orders are simply drop shipped from OMIX-ADA upon receipt.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rick Cline Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Sep. 2016 at 3:53pm
A reminder
Topic: BROKEN Sector Shaft
    Posted: 21 Feb. 2016 at 8:30pm

This is when my sector shaft broke on me. It has taken another sector shaft failure to get this much attention. Bretto went back and looked through his photos and found that he has one also.    

Thanks to Oilleaker1 and RICKG to fire this topic up again. Anyone that rebuilt a steering box between 2011 and 2013. I would pull the cover and see if you have the defective sector shaft.

 

 


Edited by Rick Cline - 29 Sep. 2016 at 3:55pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oilleaker1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Sep. 2016 at 4:37pm
I did my own inspection. You can pull the cover without removing the fender. Mine was the IAT type which is different from the problem sectors. I didn't see the weld on the outside end, or the exposed gap on the inside. Take a good look at the pictures to ID those bad type sectors. John
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bretto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Sep. 2016 at 4:40pm
Yep as Rick said, I went thru my restore pics and this is what I'm running.  Unsettling.  Its coming out.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ryan_289 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Sep. 2016 at 4:49pm
I went and checked my orders but could find when I purchased mine.  I know it was probably sometime in mid 2014.  It would have been purchased from Walcks.  I guess I need to take it out and check itAngry
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oilleaker1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Sep. 2016 at 4:49pm
Bretto, before you jump, pull the side cover off the steering box and look at the end of the sector. Yours could be the other IAT type from Omix. I have heard of no failures on this type. The bad one will have a visable circular weld where the shaft comes through and a noticeable gap where the shaft meets the hole on the inside. You can slide the sector outwards and look with a small mirror. Oilly
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ryan_289 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Sep. 2016 at 5:08pm
Originally posted by Oilleaker1 Oilleaker1 wrote:

Bretto, before you jump, pull the side cover off the steering box and look at the end of the sector. Yours could be the other IAT type from Omix. I have heard of no failures on this type. The bad one will have a visable circular weld where the shaft comes through and a noticeable gap where the shaft meets the hole on the inside. You can slide the sector outwards and look with a small mirror. Oilly

Do we have pictures of the backsides of both types available to look at?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Joe Friday Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Sep. 2016 at 5:56pm
Oilly, the originals were forged as one piece.

The 5/8 dimension was not meant to suggest a necked down shaft size was inserted, it was a a machined boss for the insertion of a  hardened 'thrust wear plug' that contacted the lash adjuster.







Edited by Joe Friday - 29 Sep. 2016 at 5:59pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oilleaker1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Sep. 2016 at 7:19pm
Thanks for the drawings Joe Friday! Here's what should happen from here on in my mind : 
1. Omix should ID the type shown on page one here. 
2. contact all dealers and remove remaining stock of the bad sectors
3. get a customer list that purchased the bad sectors and warn them
4. replace/refund the customers for the part and labor to fix it
5. anyone that thinks they might have one should study the pictures here of the bad sector and pull the cover off their steering box and look. 

There are more than one type of sector, so you need to ID yours.  Oilly
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