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"one piece at a time"

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nofender View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nofender Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 July 2018 at 8:51pm
Originally posted by mbullism mbullism wrote:

Only an opinion...

Unless one of the MV folks knows better, to me it's a post war clone and you paid too much Wink  Seriously, if it's swiss then to me it doesn't have the panache of a U.S. WWII military or an american made Bantam. It may as well have been made postwar in Taiwan, or Japan, or MD Juan.  It's a good copy.  I can see it maybe having some appeal to an MV collector in Switzerland.

I'd do what you want, but not go all out to conceal what it really is.  I'd hate to see you tailgate an M100, or expedition a TC-3, but I think this one has the bones to make a great compliment to... to...

That thing have a name yet?

(Only an opinion)

I think this is direction I'm leaning. 

I will say that the Swiss hardware is quite unique. 5/16 bolts with 9/16 heads. No rhyme or reason as to how the hardware is applied. Very odd. 

I did get all the e-brake bits working properly. So that is kind of cool. I'm off to disassemble some more....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nofender Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 July 2018 at 11:34pm
Fiddling 'round doing some detail work. 

I added the fabled bottle opener. Thank you Mike for this little treasure. And finally got around to adding the repop frame tag. 

Few more miles today between rain drops. I think all the parts are actually starting to like each other. 




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LuzonRed47 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 July 2018 at 12:48am
Your trailer appears to be a Korean War-era M100, built by various U.S. trailer manufacturers 1950-54, for use with M38 and M38A1 jeeps. No tailgate, hydraulic shocks and four tie-down hooks on each side. The Swiss Army may have bought some M100s for use during the '50s and 1960s. I've not read anything about Swiss manufacture, but some Swiss trailer maker may have been granted license. But the bolt sizes you mention are SAE, not metric. I disagree with mbullism--your trailer is 100 percent American design with roots directly back to the Bantam and Willys WWII 1/4-ton trailers. Perfect tagalong for your beautiful 2A. 
CJ2A #140275 "Ziggie" (purchased new by my dad in 1947)
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CJ3A windshield, Warn Overdrive
1953 Strick M100 trailer
Serial #18253
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nofender Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 July 2018 at 10:40am
Originally posted by LuzonRed47 LuzonRed47 wrote:

Your trailer appears to be a Korean War-era M100, built by various U.S. trailer manufacturers 1950-54, for use with M38 and M38A1 jeeps. No tailgate, hydraulic shocks and four tie-down hooks on each side. The Swiss Army may have bought some M100s for use during the '50s and 1960s. I've not read anything about Swiss manufacture, but some Swiss trailer maker may have been granted license. But the bolt sizes you mention are SAE, not metric. I disagree with mbullism--your trailer is 100 percent American design with roots directly back to the Bantam and Willys WWII 1/4-ton trailers. Perfect tagalong for your beautiful 2A. 

Thanks for the info! I have it nearly torn down so we can get it to the blaster. I'm debating on the hardware. I want to remove every bolt and replace with grade 8 parts. But I also never wanted to do a complete nut and bolt restore. This trailer will look nice in the end. But I also intend to work it. It's perfect size for some projects I want to do.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mbullism Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 July 2018 at 2:28pm
I believe I said "if" it's swiss, but I don't think what it is or where it came from is really in question anymore.
.
.
Between the Chuck Lutz info on Jeepdraw, and the several threads on the G discussing these, I think it's pretty well accepted that the swiss refurburbed WWII trailers after the war, and produced copies after that.  Having not found an ACM number that pretty much ruled out the former, so it "appears to be" a military clone (M100 if you like) built in 1951.

The lights, rims, reflectors, lunette, swiss tags and lack of any evidence it ever wore US colors or tags or markings et al check all the swiss boxes.  Yes US design, but a copy, imo.

I'd leave it what it is, but lose no sleep if you tailgate it.

(and the opener looks Thumbs Up)


Edited by mbullism - 23 July 2018 at 2:32pm
Those who do not learn from history are doomed to repeat it... Welcome to 1930's Germany
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greaser007 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 July 2018 at 5:26pm
   Hey Nofender _ _ _ nice refurb !

   Good thing we don't keep track of the hours we spend restoring one-person's junk into Our-Treasure yes.

   In 1985 when my wife got pregnant with our first, I began watching the local trader-paper for a jeep trailer to pull behind our '77 CJ-7. The first one that popped up I bought. It is a 1947 built rated at 2k lbs capacity.
   I have not sandblasted the trailer because of the 5-coats of paint and natural aging for Patina.







   Also, when you mentioned the .030 wire size, I too found that to be good for the '46 I restored back in 1984. I use a Linde 225 Mig-Master with argon gas, and it sure makes a pretty weld. Like you, I normally run .035 wire through the machine for most welding tasks.
Nice work on that willys Build !

    I'm starting on another '46

    Leonard
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nofender Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Aug. 2018 at 11:05am
I finally have the trans tunnel cover done. One might think - what's the big deal? Shoot a little black paint and bolt it on - done. Well in typical fashion for this Jeep nothing is simple. 

This is a column shift tub. So bolt holes are in different places and the spacing is more narrow to the rear. Also the tunnel where it meets the firewall is at a slightly different angle. Now that could be a manufacturing difference or simply time and modification landed that angle in a new place. The end result is that none of the half dozen trans covers i have would fit. Not even close. 

So I used the column shift plate as a template. I recreated that, then cut out the middle to create a "flange" around the transmission opening. Then I cut the top half of another cover and began to graft the two together. I had to notch around the two rear bolts to create enough room to actually bolt it down. It took a bit to get it all to fit right. But we got it done. 

Then I body worked it to hide some of the Frankenstein features. I was happy with the results. Shot some paint and it looked decent. After the paint dried, I did some touch up sanding - then reshot it. The paint almost instantly lifted. So back to the drawing board. Redid the whole thing and finally was able to bolt it done. Three days to do a job that should take 3 minutes. Sometimes i wonder why I do this to myself...these damn Jeeps. LOLLOL

Anyway here is a couple of boring pictures of what is typically a boring part that has a story now.....





Let's hope the T-case shifter boots will be easier. I ain't banking on it. 


Edited by nofender - 07 Aug. 2018 at 11:08am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mbullism Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Aug. 2018 at 11:33am
Nothing easy is worth the effort Wink
Those who do not learn from history are doomed to repeat it... Welcome to 1930's Germany
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nofender Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Sep. 2018 at 10:03pm
Okay.....so purists look way. 

I was at my son's house earlier today. We were looking at some yard projects. Where he lives in the city, it would be pretty tough to get materials (loam, gravel, etc) to where we need it. So I started thinking and it led me to that trailer i bought earlier this year. It would be perfect to wiggle into the spot he needs it.

So decided to just get cracking and do something with it. It's half disassembled in prep for blasting. I just sort of lost interest and put it on the back burner.

I felt a moment of remorse....then just went for it. I carefully cut the rear panel off the trailer. It needs a tailgate. The rear panel is in nice shape. So i was careful removing it. It, or at least parts of it will be transferred to the front. The front panel is in need of some help. So this works. 

After a ton of clean up, I welded the rear lip of the trailer to the frame. The sheet metal had seperated long ago and needed to be reattached. We got it looking good. 

Then I made an angle iron frame to surround the tailgate and give the tub some structure back. It took a bit of prodding and pushing to get the gate opening square. But it's dang close! 

 The plan is to use some Willys tailgates to bridge the gaps. I'll section two and join them together to make one tailgate that looks stock, but is around 4 inches taller. I have six gates. So parts are not a problem. 

Anyway on to pictures of my sacrilege. 






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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ol' Unreliable Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Sep. 2018 at 3:25am
Interesting...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeepFever Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Sep. 2018 at 4:37am
I put a stock-height Willys tailgate on my Bantam "work" trailer.    This trailer was basically not restorable,  so I was not worried about originality either.
 
 
 
I actually prefer the lower height,  because when it swings down,  it is less likely to hit the ground.   The other nice thing about the Willys/Jeep tailgates,   unlike the original Bantam - > they are removable,  which can often be handy.
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nofender Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Sep. 2018 at 11:54am
Thanks for the pictures. That's helpful! 

My debate is where to split the gate. I spent quite a bit of time marking out the gate I will uses as the filler panel. I can just get the 4 inches i need - with a little to spare. 

So my debate is the logo. Keeping "jeep" even though I do have Willys gates. Seeing as this will get pulled behind our JKs as well as the flatty, I chose the generic. Anyway do i leave the logo high? Or do i split the gate above the logo and attempt to center it? 

Overthinking again ain't I?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeepFever Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Sep. 2018 at 2:24pm
Very crude photoshopping:
 
 

 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nofender Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Sep. 2018 at 4:10pm
Wow! thank you! I think I prefer it up high. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ol' Unreliable Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Sep. 2018 at 6:38pm
I vote for centered.  Not that my vote counts.  Smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nofender Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Sep. 2018 at 7:06pm
Originally posted by Ol' Unreliable Ol' Unreliable wrote:

I vote for centered.  Not that my vote counts.  Smile

It does actually. After eyeballing this, I think centered may be it. Now the challenge! To center it, I'm looking at four cuts to get everything to line up. If i split the gate above the logo, the logo will be too low. So I think i would have to section it, weld it up, remove the logo and reposition it. That may be more effort than it's worth. 

I'm off to measure and contemplate some more. 

Anyone have some tailgate mounts they'd like to spare? If so PM me. Could have sworn I had a pair. But i can't find them. 


Edited by nofender - 03 Sep. 2018 at 7:10pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nofender Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Sep. 2018 at 2:24am
So here is my answer to a question I'm pretty sure no one has ever asked.

How does one make a tailgate for a possible Bantam, but maybe Swiss NATO refurb, but then again maybe Swiss repop that somehow landed on Long Island trailer? Tongue

Well, I cut up a very original and very rusty tailgate. I salvaged the strip of material I needed. I kept the side rails attached. I did not want just straight cuts. That's very week. So I did a true section of this gate. 



Then I took a nice piece of 3/8 flat stock (not shown) to align and cut perfectly straight lines. Then i clamped it all together and started tacking. I made a crude jig to hold it all straight and level. Again - not shown. Too embarrassed to take a picture of that mess. But hey, it worked. 



Then we reattached the lower portion. The blue gate at one time was very well prepped. Getting the paint and filler off caused quite a mess. 



And finally all tacked up. Lots of welding left to do, as well as some hammer and dolly work to get the beads to line up right. But nothing insurmountable. I decided to leave the logo high. I like it. It has teh right line. 

I have to say I have a new found respect for these old school hot rod guys. I've been around dudes that have channeled an entire car. I can't imagine. Just this little project has me in awe of those guys! It's a TON of work. The prep takes forever.

Final result. I'm pleased. 




Edited by nofender - 04 Sep. 2018 at 11:07am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nofender Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Sep. 2018 at 12:54pm
A few hours of welding later and we have a gate that's one piece. Some hammer and dolly work got things acceptable. Dusted it with some primer so I could better see the seems and what else is needed. I'll do some finish work when the time comes to clean up the lines a bit more. 

Added gate chain mounts. I had to stand them off a bit to get things to line up properly. Now all I need is a couple chains. I have an idea for some rubber bumpers to keep the gate from making a racket. 

Next up - I have to cut out the rust on the front panel. I'll transfer at least some of the rear panel to the front to complete the repair. More to come. 






Edited by nofender - 09 Sep. 2018 at 10:20pm
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