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Output Shaft Seals

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Howard View Drop Down
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    Posted: 06 Jan. 2010 at 7:50pm
Group 18-01
 
Part # A-958
Spicer # SP-62-463-2
 These were my take outs...probably original...Victor 49372...Leather Seal Material, backside view, These are about 1/2" thick. They get destroyed during removal.
Front View...
A selection of suitable replacements...showing front and back
Left to Right,
#1 Generic Brand from a dealer 1/2" Thick, single seal lip, from 'Crown' Gasket set
#2 National # 473229 1/4" Thick, double seal lip
#3 Generic Brand 1/4" Thick, single seal lip, probably from 'Novak' rebuild set
 
I have been using the National seal. I think it is a better seal because of the double seal lips where they contact the yoke. The double lip seals the oil, like the single lip, but also has the forward lip to work with the felt dust seal to keep dirt away from the oil seal lip and possibly damaging that lip. The 1/2" thick seal that comes in the 'Crown' gasket set is single lip. I have used all three of these seals, they all work. I am not sure about their durability over time. The National seals I have had in service for seven years without trouble.
This is the 1/2" Thick Single lip seal,
 
Also the # A-1134 Gasket from GROUP 18-04, shown below, I do not use. This paper gasket is not in all Parts lists for the 18 Transfer case.
This gasket is probably not needed with the new style seals, even the one thick one I show which has a split back, would not leak like the old leather ones would with their split back. There is no way for oil to get through there on these new seals. This gasket is still sold however.
This is the spacer washer I use with the National Seal...to compensate for the thickness difference and to locate the seal lip in the correct place on the yoke sealing surface.
 
 
 
 
 


Edited by Howard - 07 Jan. 2010 at 9:52am
Howard F Jewett

1946 CJ2A #23353

43 GPW 106505 USA #20366014

43 Bantam Trailer T3 #14844

52 M100 K1119
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Mark N View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark N Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 May 2010 at 9:46am
the National you indicate is 1/4". Couldn't you use two of those instead of one seal and a washer?
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Howard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Feb. 2011 at 8:52pm
Hi Mark,
Sorry about being soooo long to respond to your question about doubling the seal.
I also considered the idea...however as I recall two will not fit properly and place the sealing lip(s) in the correct location(s) I also recall some interferance with the yoke felt as well. The use of a Speedie Sleeve to repair the yoke seal surface is also limited for width in this area...I have forgotten the exact scenerio but It won't work correctly ...


Edited by Howard - 16 Feb. 2011 at 8:53pm
Howard F Jewett

1946 CJ2A #23353

43 GPW 106505 USA #20366014

43 Bantam Trailer T3 #14844

52 M100 K1119
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dumdum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Aug. 2015 at 4:07pm
Well, five and a half years after Howard's original post, I thought I would add this reply Smile  ...

I went to replace the rear output seal on my CJ2A's transfer case, ended up removing the entire "Rear Output Shaft Cap and Bushing" and shims because I absolutely could not pry the seal out with a seal removal pry tool or a small slide hammer.   Was able to knock the seal out from the backside of the cap with a punch.

Found two paper gaskets spacing the seal from the back surface of the cap. 

The oil seal surface of the companion flange (the thingie that slides over the output shaft splines) was corroded and worn from the old oil seal and from long term contact with water in the transfer case oil.  But this surface was smooth and shiny past the oil seal contact area. 

After careful measurement, I decided I needed a spacer about 5/32" thick to get my new oil seal to contact the smooth area of the flange.  

I ended up cutting a number of thin slices (discs) off a length of 2" white PVC plumbing pipe ( 2 1/16" I.D. and 2 11/32" O.D.) using a radial arm saw.  I picked the one closest to (but thicker than) 5/32" and carefully sanded it down to a uniform 5/32" thickness.   It is a sloppy fit in the companion flange seal bore, but adequate.

I used a rubber mallet and a 3" length of this 2" pipe to drive and seat the seal in the flange.

After a couple hours of driving time, there does not appear be any leakage (from this seal!  Plenty of leaks elsewhere!).

Afterwards, I was looking at the 3-point hitch parts display at Tractor Supply Company and discovered they sell what certainly looks like the metal washer that Howard used as a spacer.  They call it a "Machinery Bushing", available in various sizes.  The largest is " 1 3/4 x 14" (1 3/4" I.D. and 14 gauge thickness) and certainly looks like it will fit.  Sells two for $2.29 at TSC.

DumDum





'46 CJ2A, '67 Jeep Gladiator 350ci, '98 Dodge Ram 2500 Turbo Diesel, '03 6x4 Deere Gator
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