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Bruce W View Drop Down
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    Posted: 09 Oct. 2019 at 12:47am
  I've been working on putting together a good transmission and transfer case for Uncle Lynden's CJ2-A. Had some trouble getting the transmission the way I wanted it, and the transfer case has been fighting me for a couple of months now. Finally got it all together, and decided to install the overdrive today. I had a hard time getting the bowl gear to go in, it seemed to be a tight fit on the shaft, but I got it in there without too much force, and got the nut tight. Then it hit. When I turned the parking brake drum to rotate the gears in the t/case and trans, it went "tightloosetightloosetightloosetight" and clunkclunkclunkclunk. What th'? Feels like the gear is hitting something inside the case. I pulled it out and looked for interference inside the case, and found nothing. Then I realized it was still doing that as I pulled it out, if I turned the gear, until the gear un-meshed with the intermediate gear. I put it back in, and it did that as soon as the gears came together. So I pulled it out again and put the "normal" drive gear in, and it works like a charm. I counted the teeth on both the old gear and the bowl gear several times to be sure that they are both 26 tooth gears. I coated several teeth on the bowl gear with Prussian Blue and put the bowl gear in the case once more, then I turned the entire gear train several turns and then pulled the gear out again. The flanks of all of the teeth show a pretty nice pattern, a nice even spread, but the bottoms of the "V's" between teeth are completely clean and shiny, no blue at all. The tips of the intermediate gear teeth are contacting (with considerable pressure) the bottom of the "V's" of the bowl gear. On examination, the teeth on the bowl gear look "fatter" and shorter than the teeth on the old gear. I suppose it's possible that the PO of the overdrive replaced the bowl gear at some time, and got a piece of crap like most of the parts we see today. Maybe this is why he sold the overdrive so cheap. Who makes parts for the Warn O/D? Omix? Has anyone seen anything like this before?
  As Captain Binghamton said, "Why Me?"  Ouch  
  I guess the overdrive will have to wait. I installed the old gear and blasted and painted a rear cover for the case.  BW

Edit to add photo.




Edited by Bruce W - 09 Oct. 2019 at 1:09am
Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You!

We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep.
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tamnalan View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tamnalan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Oct. 2019 at 1:33am
I had a similar problem with an NOS transfer case intermediate gear a while back.  "NOS" apparently meant "factory reject".  
Alan Johnson
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tamnalan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Oct. 2019 at 1:35am
It just clattered when I tried to use it.  Never would mesh quietly.  I'd be glad to sell it for the right price... :)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joe Friday Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Oct. 2019 at 8:02am
Bruce - I'll be at the Denver Hobby Expo this Friday after noon and all day Saturday. Do you want me to bring a 'different' 26 tooth bowl gear?
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Bruce W View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Oct. 2019 at 1:30pm
Alan-
  I don’t think the intermediate gear is the problem, it meshes well with the high-speed output gear and with the original drive gear. I guess I could try another 26-tooth drive gear and see if they are compatible, but I don’t see much point in that. 

Keith-
  That would be greatly appreciated. Can I meet you someplace?

BW
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Oct. 2019 at 7:28pm
Say Bruce strange problem for sure. 

If someone could measure across the width of their 26 tooth bowl or their main shaft gear then that alone would tell you a lot.
I would measure across one myself but all  have are the 29 tooth gears.
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joe Friday Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Oct. 2019 at 8:33pm
Bruce - I'll PM you with my cell number.

I'm working at the "Denver Mart" long hours so you would need to meet me there.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tamnalan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Oct. 2019 at 8:40pm
Oh, yeah Bruce -- sorry to miscommunicate.  I was trying to point to how things are sometimes manufactured.  Hopefully your drive gear isn't afflicted with the same quality issue that plagues my intermediate gear.

Very kind of Mr Friday to offer!  Kudos to Keith.
Alan Johnson
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steelyard Blues Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Oct. 2019 at 9:17pm
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Bruce W View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Oct. 2019 at 10:05pm
Originally posted by oldtime oldtime wrote:

Say Bruce strange problem for sure. 

If someone could measure across the width of their 26 tooth bowl or their main shaft gear then that alone would tell you a lot.
I would measure across one myself but all  have are the 29 tooth gears.

  Ken, I attempted to measure mine, but a gear is a much more complex thing than it appears to be. Measuring one is much more than "OD and ID". I measured the bowl gear and the drive gear on the OD and tried to measure the depth of the teeth or the "V", and subtract the depth from the OD to find the "minor diameter", and the bowl gear actually seems to measure smaller than the original drive gear. But the Prussian Blue does not lie, and neither does the way this thing feels as I turn it. Methinks something smells fishy in Denmark Canada. 

Alan said, ' "NOS" apparently meant "factory reject".'

Yes, I have run into that a time or two as well. I recently bought two "NOS" distributor shafts that would put the rotor 1/4 turn off from the correct position - and they are a 1/2 turn off from each other!  BW
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Oct. 2019 at 10:40am
Yeah well the term NOS is rather vague.
It does not imply the part to be OEM nor does it specify it as replacement  stock.
In general NOS is certainly  good if it implies the "Seal Tested" brand otherwise it may be questionable.

Have little idea who all has been making O.D. bowl gears. or is it the intermediate gear that was purported NOS ?
Is this a Warn 25% O.D. unit ?
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeepsterjim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Oct. 2019 at 12:58pm
Strange indeed----Herm might know what's going on.
Jim
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