overheating since engine rebuilt |
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Dads CJ2A
Member Joined: 13 May 2018 Location: SE Michigan Status: Offline Points: 6 |
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Posted: 26 May 2018 at 7:34pm |
Along with a newly rebuit engine on my '46 CJ2A, I've added the following:
I've scoured the forums for ideas and wonder what is most likely my issue:
Other notable (maybe) items:
Thanks in advance for suggestions! |
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I cut it off twice and it's still too short!
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Mark W.
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7984 |
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it should idle at 650 rpm easily. I would look at timing and your over all tune. If you take the cap off (before starting) do you see water flowing in the top of the Radiator? |
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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Vince
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 14 Nov. 2007 Location: UK Status: Offline Points: 332 |
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Also, does your new thermostat have the 1/8 hole to allow bypass (and prevent an air lock)?
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Dads CJ2A
Member Joined: 13 May 2018 Location: SE Michigan Status: Offline Points: 6 |
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Yes, I see some movement there. Upon my very first start with a "full' radiator and after running for only a few minutes I turned the engine off to check for oil, gas etc leaks since this was just rebuilt. Before starting again I did have to add a few quarts so I'm guessing that was the thermostat opening and creating the void from the air in the block?
Thanks for the tip on the timing and idle. I knew the idle should be a bunch lower. Would it be best to work on getting the idle down first, then look at timing? Or does it matter?
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I cut it off twice and it's still too short!
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Dads CJ2A
Member Joined: 13 May 2018 Location: SE Michigan Status: Offline Points: 6 |
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I didn't drill one myself like I've seen other guys mention in other posts, so NO on the 1/8 hole unless it was built into the part. I know I got the orientation right and I'm pretty sure it's opening based on the "top-off" I had to do.
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I cut it off twice and it's still too short!
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Rus Curtis
Member Joined: 25 Mar. 2010 Location: Alabama Status: Offline Points: 1733 |
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The leak in the pump is a failure indicator. The pump should be replaced. The cap should seal as the extra pressure will keep the solution from boiling at lower temps. This shouldn't be a factor at idle. You pressure checked but what about restrictions? Did you clean out the radiator before painting/install? Don't overfill but leave the cap off and observe while idling. You should see flow each time the thermostat opens. If it rises up and overflows, I would suspect blockage. This could be the radiator, the thermostat (bench test in a bowl using a thermometer) or pump not pumping. Water is cheaper than antifreeze. If you can collect the coolant, troubleshoot with water until you solve the problem. Since you're trying to solve this, any water is ok but I personally prefer distilled water when mixing with antifreeze as this reduces mineral deposit buildup.
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Rus Curtis
Alabama 1954 CJ3B Bantam T3-C |
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Dads CJ2A
Member Joined: 13 May 2018 Location: SE Michigan Status: Offline Points: 6 |
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New pump on order along with a shroud.
As far as rad restrictions, I absolutely flushed it good with water when it was loose from the vehicle. It seemed to flow from the neck to the lower tube nicely so I'm guessing there is no serious blockage. It was pressure checked a a pretty reputable radiator shop so I'm counting on that as another assurance that the rad is good. Drained the block at the petcock by the oil fill tube and drained the radiator at the lower hose petcock today. Love the tip on 'troubleshooting' using water Rus, thanks. Plan is to install new pump and shroud, drill the 1/8" hole in the thermostat that Vince recommended above while everything is tore up, then fill with water and work on the timing. Thanks to all. |
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I cut it off twice and it's still too short!
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Dads CJ2A
Member Joined: 13 May 2018 Location: SE Michigan Status: Offline Points: 6 |
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Special thanks to Mark W., Vince and Rus!
After a new H20 pump, new aftermarket shroud (+some required tweaks), 1/8 inch holes in thermostat and probably my biggest factor - setting the TIMING, I'm back on the road. I was quite a bit off when I originally set the timing by 'ear'. After the 2 laps around the subdivision it's clear what my next task is - brakes! Modern DOT 3 fluid acceptable?
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I cut it off twice and it's still too short!
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Mark W.
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7984 |
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YES DOT 3 fluid
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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Mike S
Member Joined: 20 May 2006 Location: West Coast Status: Offline Points: 2318 |
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Glad you got it running correctly
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'47 CJ2A -- #114542
Warn FF D41 rear Lock-Right locker 11" drum brakes Dual master cylinder T90C Transmission 16 X 6 Jeep truck wheels Cooper STT Pro tires |
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