Paint or patina advice |
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Scratch
Member Joined: 30 July 2019 Location: Hudson, WI Status: Offline Points: 1454 |
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Posted: 30 Nov. 2021 at 6:18pm |
I feel like I might have screwed up. I have this '46 2A that's in pretty good shape. Frame is in great shape minus one spot that needed a bit of welding. Body is solid except for some of the floor and hat channels. Drivetrain is good but it needed a new clutch.
I decided to pull the tub so I could repair the frame, replace the hat channels and floor, and also the clutch. While I was there, I decided to sandblast, prime and paint the frame. I figured I'd repair the body, then paint it harvest tan, and call it a day. But now, every time I walk past the body, I'm leaning towards keeping the existing patina. At first I thought well that's fine, I'll just put the old patina body back on the freshly painted frame, but now realize that might look very odd, especially since Ive already painted the front bumper. I guess I could do a faux patina on the bumper and driving it once or twice on the dusty trail and the rest of the frame should look like crap anyways. I already have a restored '44 GPW, a frame off resto modded '47, another '46 thats in good shape, and I'm planning on doing a full, back to factory, frame off restoration of my '48 lefty in the spring, so I kind of want one with a cool patina on it. This one looks pretty cool as it is, especially the hood and fenders. Heres what it looked like before I pulled the tub off. Any suggestions? Edited by Scratch - 08 Mar. 2022 at 10:23pm |
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43 GPW 93487 Blk
44 GPW 230283 OD 46 CJ2A 50100 Tan 46 CJ2A 77632 Wht 47 CJ2A 141681 Grn 48 CJ2A 156240 Red/Yel 48 CJ2A "Lefty" 181341 Red 61 CJ5 123120 Tan 03 TJ Inca Gld |
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oldscot3
Member Joined: 22 Oct. 2019 Location: texas Status: Offline Points: 545 |
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While I appreciate the patina look on honest, hard working, beaters; if the body is clean and free of dents, I vote paint it and make it nice. You don't have to do a mega bucks, show worthy paint job, just use your basic paint with a hardener and call it good.
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James 4:6 God resists the proud, but gives grace to the humble.
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SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A
Member Sponsor Member x 3 Joined: 22 Jan. 2016 Location: S.E. Kansas Status: Offline Points: 3190 |
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I'd say that it has plenty of patina...especially the windshield glass!
A frame that has been painted is going to look out of place with that body on it. The frame could be "re-patinaed" if that is a word. It's not the end of the world. Put the body back on the frame and drive it in the brush for a while. It will look as old as the body after one seasons driving. Some brown paint applied in the right way on the frame will complete the look. Don't paint it solid brown, just kind of mist it on in a few places. |
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46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red" (bought April 1969)(second owner)(12 V, 11" brakes, M-38 frame, MD Juan tub)
U.S. Coast Guard Chief Petty Officer(ret.) U.S. Army Vietnam veteran and damned proud of it. |
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Ron D
Member Joined: 27 Oct. 2019 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 1433 |
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Besides snappy good looks, a decent paint job might be the best corrosion protection there is. If you go with the patina look (a.k.a. the "rode hard and put away wet" look) instead, you might consider spraying a clear coat or two on it (flat). Left unprotected to the elements, a little bit at a time, the metal is slowly rotting and nobody or nothing can stop it. Of course, if you don't care about preserving it for the future owners, never mind that either. Good luck!
Edited by Ron D - 30 Nov. 2021 at 9:16pm |
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1951 M38
1951 M100 |
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WillysWally
Member Joined: 07 Mar. 2020 Location: Western PA Status: Offline Points: 172 |
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Good Morning Scratch: I understand the desire to maintain the patina from a conceptual point of view. But I believe that there are a couple of questions that might help you sort this out. First, the paint scheme -- is it original? While I am certainly not a true expert as to the colors of the earlier models, I dont recognize this particular color/scheme. I believe that there is a strong argument that can be made to maintain the patina if the paint is original paint as it came from the factory. That certainly would increase the desire to preserve it that way. With the various colors that the various previous owners may have applied, that are also now part of that vehicles individual history, not so much. Second, I believe Rod broached the other issue. Is the jeep going to be driven on a regular basis, or will it become a 'hangar queem'? If the jeep were being used in the desert south west where you have to work really hard to make steel rust, keeping the current partially exposed bare metal, is not as big a deal. However, Wisconsin has a very different climate. The real issue is that if the corrosion is not arrested at this point, and you are planning on driving it on a regular basis, it will only continue to deteriorate. At some point, if the rig is to be further maintained or preserved, it will take more work, new metal and additional funds to keep it on the road at that point. Just some things to consider. Good Luck! Regards, Walter
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smfulle
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Ogden, Utah Status: Offline Points: 6141 |
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I really appreciate the skill and work it takes to make a jeep look factory fresh. Once you have done all that work, you have a jeep that looks like hundreds of other jeeps out there. Besides being a Willys Jeep there is nothing really special or unique about it.
What you have right now is different than any other rig in the world. That jeep has earned that look that it has. I think it is beautiful. The painted frame is really not that much of a big deal. Drive it down a dirt road and don't wash it and it will look fine. Your mileage may vary.
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muley
Member Joined: 25 Jan. 2021 Location: idaho Status: Offline Points: 821 |
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My 3A was red.. and so oxidized that it would color your jeans if you leaned on it. once a year I rub it out with linseed oil, including the bare metal..
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Joined Jan-8 2015
I never met a mule I didn't like! OD Mule 01-52 M38 Big Red 19fiddy CJ3A salad |
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Ron D
Member Joined: 27 Oct. 2019 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 1433 |
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Inside and out, top to bottom?
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1951 M38
1951 M100 |
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Scratch
Member Joined: 30 July 2019 Location: Hudson, WI Status: Offline Points: 1454 |
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Thanks all, lots of good points to consider. Not sure what I'm going to do yet but I still have a bit of time to decide.
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43 GPW 93487 Blk
44 GPW 230283 OD 46 CJ2A 50100 Tan 46 CJ2A 77632 Wht 47 CJ2A 141681 Grn 48 CJ2A 156240 Red/Yel 48 CJ2A "Lefty" 181341 Red 61 CJ5 123120 Tan 03 TJ Inca Gld |
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drm101
Member Joined: 12 Dec. 2012 Location: Clarkston, MI Status: Offline Points: 1470 |
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You could do that linseed oil treatment too. i like the look of it. I'd run it awhile that way too. You can always paint it later if you feel like it.
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Dean
'47 CJ2A "Ron" '66 CJ5 "Buckie" The less the Power the More the Force |
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dasvis
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 07 Sep. 2019 Location: Salem, Oregon Status: Offline Points: 1546 |
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That's how I plan on finishing the Rat Patrol - Linseed oil. Would hate to ruin that nice patina........
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1947 CJ2A #88659 "Rat Patrol"
1953 CJ3A #453-GB1 11266 "Black Beauty" 1964 Thunderbird convertible ..... & one of them moves under it's own power!! |
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BD1
Member Joined: 18 Dec. 2019 Location: Maine Status: Online Points: 630 |
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As I've said before, this is entirely dependent on where you live. Jeeps seem to last forever in the desert. However the life of a CJ, (one that is actually being used), in Maine is probably only 15-20 years if it's not kept painted. I've probably looked at 100 junked flat fenders around here in the last three years that would still be viable, if they'd only have been kept painted.
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BD
'47 CJ2a, Shiny on top! '55 CJ5 project |
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Michaeltru
Member Sponsor Member x 3 Joined: 22 Oct. 2012 Location: Arizona Status: Offline Points: 988 |
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Just watched a video of a guy protecting the patina on his truck. Used Flood Penetrol bought at Lowe’s. I’ve heard Gibbs Brand penetrant used on bare metal to prevent rust. And watched a video of a guy spraying his complete underside of a car to prevent more rust. Over rust, paint etc. so there are products out there that people use to protect their metal from further rust, oxidation etc. good luck with your decision
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Mike in AZ
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oldmansimek
Member Joined: 23 Apr. 2019 Location: CT Status: Offline Points: 177 |
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I linseed oil mine a few times a year it works great, would work better if I had a garage! I vote for not painting they look better showing the wear they so rightly earned. Maybe I am different then most but an original vehicle (or motorcycle) just looks better, no offense to you fully restored guys but I will most likely walk right past your vehicle without a second glance to see something a little crusty.
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Bufordjeep
Member Joined: 12 Aug. 2009 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 506 |
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'... A little crusty' like that - Jeep looks great. How you apply the oil?
Thinking of the same thing. Will be mindfull of disposing of any linseed oil soaked rags -to avoid the risk of fire. Edited by Bufordjeep - 03 Dec. 2021 at 5:52am |
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Bufordjeep
Member Joined: 12 Aug. 2009 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 506 |
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WeeWilly
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 07 May 2009 Location: Clayton IN Status: Offline Points: 3423 |
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I rebuilt my cj2a to represent a used in good condition. When the paint was fresh I had very few comments on it, now after about 7 years and paint is fading and scuffs and scrapes people are asking to take pics of it and asking how long have I had it.
Jim
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47 CJ2A (Ranch Hand) 48 CJ2A, 48 Willys truck, T3C 3782, M274 (Military Mule)
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oldmansimek
Member Joined: 23 Apr. 2019 Location: CT Status: Offline Points: 177 |
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Originally I was just using the metal tin and pouring it on a rag with my wife "gladly" helping. I have since moved to a plastic refillable spray bottle and a rag but I might try a car wash sponge next time. That picture is shortly after applying, usually within a week it kind of dulls down and looses the shine and sticky feel of oil.
Edited by oldmansimek - 03 Dec. 2021 at 9:05am |
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