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Peggy: 1947 CJ-2A Light Diesel Build #123456 |
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Mark W. 
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 Posted: 11 Sep. 2018 at 1:14pm |
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Not sure what the first gear is in your TH350 but with 3.73 final your crawl ratio is going to suck. If what you want is a off road crawler it appears to me as if your running directly way from it. Relying on a Turbo for almost half your HP at trail speeds and those gears your not going to be getting much of any boost the engine won't be turning fast enough. At the very least I would think a T-90C would be a better choice.
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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RustyAutoholicGuy
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Posted: 11 Sep. 2018 at 2:24pm |
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I think I found it! I believe this is the frame, though it was for a CJ-5!  I like this setup, it's easy with simple cuts and I'm going to see if I can get the metal for it locally sourced this week as well!!!
I would love to see some picture if you get a chance! Sounds like a great build!!!
Yeah I'm really wanting an automatic, so the T-90C is out. I can adjust the stall speed and other aspect ratios of the transmission to help it perform better as well. Also my rear end gearing is going to be 4.11 or 4.10, I just can't remember which honestly. So I'm going to have a decent crawl speed. If in the future I need it to be lower, I can upgrade my Dana 18 to a lower gear set as well. The turbo I'm running as well spools very low which is going to help also. So with 35" tires, 4.11 axle gears, and a fast spooling turbo, I think I should be fine. I was originally going to be building this as an ultimate crawler, but that has kind of changed, yes I want to do Moab and the Rubicon with it, but it's not going to be my ultimate crawler, that will have to be another Jeep! Thanks DJG47
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1947 CJ2A #123456
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rocnroll
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Posted: 11 Sep. 2018 at 4:58pm |
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Fast spooling turbo or not you aren't going to be happy with 4.11s with 35s.....just sayin'.
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'47 CJ2A PU
'48 CJ2A Lefty "Common sense is not that common" |
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Nothing Special
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Joined: 02 Feb. 2018 Location: Roseville, MN Status: Offline Points: 843 |
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Posted: 11 Sep. 2018 at 5:51pm |
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Keep in mind (and from his later post I know that DJG47 is keeping it in mind) that the effective crawl ratio (for climbing rocks and hills) with an auto is a lot lower than the numbers indicate due to torque converter slip. With a manual trans you are going as fast as the engine is going, so to slow down you either need to gear down or risk stalling the engine. With an auto you can always go slower by riding your brakes, so you don't have to hit things as hard, even if you have pretty tall gearing. That said, higher gearing with an auto will mean that you'll need to get into the But still, comparing the performance of an auto to that of a manual with the same gears really isn't very accurate. 4.10s with 35s will be way more livable with an auto and a diesel's low torque curve than it would with a manual and most gassers. I still think I'd go with lower gearing personally, but it doesn't sound terrible to me.
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RustyAutoholicGuy
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Posted: 11 Sep. 2018 at 6:41pm |
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Yeah Unfortunately I want to make the CJ-2A somewhat street-able, I would love to be able to drive at least 55 ~ 60 mph, my lower RPM limit, which is like 2900 rpm, is why going with a 4.11 gear set is helpful. I would love to run my stock 5.38, but then I'll be struggling to even hit 45mph!
Nothing Special you are absolutely correct! There is a a very real difference in wheeling with an auto and a manual transmission. I have done both, my CJ-5 I had was a 3-speed manual, and my 2006 RHD Wrangler is automatic. Going on the same trails around my property it's a completely different way of approaching and handling obstacles. My personal preference is the automatic! Partially because I left foot brake and also because I don't clutch very well because of a bad knee injury from years ago, and I really enjoy the control I get from being able to work the throttle and brakes at the same time. I am going to be modifying the TH350 with a manual valve body, I don't know yet if it's going to be a normal or reverse manual valve body, depends if I want to eventually add an overdrive, but I like the idea of having reverse and 1st gear close to each other for rock crawling. In terms of compression braking, I believe the manual valve body will help assist with that, but I'm also going to be installing 3/4 ton GM brakes on all four corners of the CJ-2A, so I will be able to ride the brakes as needed. Now in terms of HEAT you are completely correct, and it's not something I have really talked about yet. The Kubota Diesel engine is a cool running engine to being with, however I am going to be running a 2-core aluminum radiator for the Kubota. I'm going to be running an aluminum transmission cooler for the TH350 as well with a dedicated fan. I'm not sure if I'm going to have the transmission cooler mounted with the radiator yet, I'm looking into that but I will know more once I get the frame built and the transmission mounted. Finally I will be running a water-to-air intercooler system for my turbo for the Kubota engine. Since I enjoy slow crawling, I'm not going to be able to move enough air through my intercooler to keep up with the heat from charged air, so going with water-to-air intercooler system is going to allow me to crawl slowly without having to worry about heat soaking my engine. Thanks DJG47
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1947 CJ2A #123456
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Unkamonkey
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Joined: 23 Mar. 2016 Location: Greeley CO Status: Offline Points: 2093 |
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Posted: 11 Sep. 2018 at 8:21pm |
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I believe you know where you are going And I'm going to bow out now.
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uncamonkey
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rocnroll
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Posted: 11 Sep. 2018 at 8:26pm |
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The truck in my avatar is flathead V8 powered (120hp maybe) has an automatic, spends all its time on the street. It has 4.27 gearing with 34s. Do as you like, it's yours.......but I stand by statement. |
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'47 CJ2A PU
'48 CJ2A Lefty "Common sense is not that common" |
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RustyAutoholicGuy
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Posted: 11 Sep. 2018 at 8:48pm |
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Not saying I won't change it in the future, but right now I have a set of 5.38 axles, and 4.10 axles, so going to run the 4.10 for now until I can get some more funds together. I rather get the CJ-2A running so I can take it out on the trails, and fix the specifics of the gearing later down the road!!!
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1947 CJ2A #123456
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Unkamonkey
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Posted: 11 Sep. 2018 at 9:23pm |
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I'm back. I know nothing about Kubota diesels. I do know a bit about Misubishi Fuso diesels. I'm semi conversant about Powerstrokes. I can do tractors as well. OK, I'm back in my corner.
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uncamonkey
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rocnroll
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Posted: 11 Sep. 2018 at 9:48pm |
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The only way I can see that happening is the manual valve body will allow the trans to not shift to the next gear....therefore allowing you to ride the gas. (as long as you are on the gas the trans won't be freewheeling). The valve body doesn't help the freewheeling situation. ( that I know of) it just controls shift points and /or the ability to shift......generally used in drag racing, I couldn't imagine how a street driven version would hold up very well......but I can be told differently. Anyway, that situation of riding the gas to prevent the freewheeling won't be a good deal either. My vehicle would feel a whole lot better if I had started with 4.88s instead of the 4.27s running 34s is why I suggested that.....you have to remember those ratios are based on alot smaller tire diameter than my 34s and the 35s you are wanting. |
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'47 CJ2A PU
'48 CJ2A Lefty "Common sense is not that common" |
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rocnroll
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Posted: 11 Sep. 2018 at 10:03pm |
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5.38s to get it running and putting around on trails then when funds come along throw an OD into the Dana 18 to give you some road gearing. My Pinto/automatic/ Dana18 2A with 32" tires would run 60mph pretty easily. (without OD) |
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'47 CJ2A PU
'48 CJ2A Lefty "Common sense is not that common" |
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Mark W.
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Posted: 11 Sep. 2018 at 10:10pm |
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Im solving the throttle/brake at the same time with a shift knob mounted hand throttle. I can clutch, brake, shift, throttle, steer, and brake at the same time I switch my rear locker in and out that switch is also on the stick.
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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rocnroll
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Posted: 11 Sep. 2018 at 10:44pm |
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Wasn't really talking about the ergonomics of it and he's not gonna have but two pedals anyway so it's do-able was just saying riding the gas and brake isn't a great situation ( especially downhills where this freewheeling would be happening anyway) But yes, hand throttles have their purpose. |
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'47 CJ2A PU
'48 CJ2A Lefty "Common sense is not that common" |
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Nothing Special
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Posted: 12 Sep. 2018 at 12:22am |
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That's exactly what a manual valve body does. It makes the automatic trans into a clutchless manual. Whatever gear you put it in, that's the gear it's in. Put it in 3rd when you're stopped? You'll be starting in 3rd. Put it in 1st at 60 mph? Your engine is going to scream. That said, DJG47, watch out for the compression braking with a manual valve body! I had an Art Carr manual valve body on an AOD in my Bronco and there was absolutely NO compression braking in 1st or 2nd! It would have a little in 4th, a little more on 3rd, and then it was like shifting to neutral when I hit 2nd! I found out later "oh yeah. they're all like that." I'm not saying they really are all like that, but ask the questions ahead of time! As to reverse or standard shift pattern, reverse is more convenient (not having to bang through all of the gears to go from reverse to 1st). But I decided on standard so I wouldn't have to worry about "downshifting" out of 1st into neutral if I had a brain fart on a hill climb. It's your vehicle so you make your choice, just sayin' what I came to. And I LOVED driving it with the manual valve body. But I had a marginal cooling system to begin with and had terrible overheating problems. Coupled with the lack of compression braking I couldn't live with it, so I went back to a stick (which I really prefer anyway, but that's me).
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rocnroll
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Posted: 12 Sep. 2018 at 12:37am |
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Bob, I knew what they do was just trying to explain it wasn't going to change the 'freewheeling' condition.
I'm glad you addressed that part....exactly what I was saying, thanks for clarifying how yours acted. |
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'47 CJ2A PU
'48 CJ2A Lefty "Common sense is not that common" |
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Mark W.
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Posted: 12 Sep. 2018 at 1:06am |
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A thing to note is a loose torque converter that allows the engine to spool up for getting over objects will also have less braking effect compared to a stock converter.
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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Lee MN
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Posted: 12 Sep. 2018 at 1:08am |
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Torque is where it’s at crawling, I’d bet in a low-low crawl situation at 1500 rpm the diesel would most likely have twice the torque of the go-devil at the same rpm!, also the Auto-Trans has a torque converter that will allow you to inch along if needed  and may be an asset in many situations. It’s not my build, for what I want a Flatty for I would be in the 4.54 or a 4.88 gr for the mountains, being on the east coast perhaps a more road friendly gr is the goal!...Lee 
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LEE
44 GPW-The Perfected Willys 49 2A “If you wait, you only get older” 67 M715 American Made Rolling History |
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RustyAutoholicGuy
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Posted: 12 Sep. 2018 at 3:01am |
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First off thank you to everyone that has been replying!
Good to know and yeah, I'm still trying to figure out what I should do with the normal or reverse valve body situation. I want an Art Car/Winters shifter in the CJ-2A. From everything I've seen they seem to do really well, but also if I go with a normal valve body, I can put the transmission in neutral and then engage the over drive if I want to, and then stick it back into 3rd gear. The overdrive is what makes the entire setup tricky. It would almost be easier to just not have the overdrive honestly.
Hey Lee yes you are correct. I'm trying to do some more research right now about it, but I think if I put a lock up torque converter along with a manual valve body in the transmission I can effectively lock the input and output shaft of the transmission which would give me a compression brake in each gear which would be selectable. That would allow me to have a nice hill decent with compression braking through the TH350 automatic. Again I'm trying to do some more research on this right now, but I believe that would work. Thanks DJG47
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1947 CJ2A #123456
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Ol' Unreliable wrote:
and may be an asset in many situations. It’s not my build, for what I want a Flatty for I would be in the 4.54 or a 4.88 gr for the mountains, being on the east coast perhaps a more road friendly gr is the goal!...