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Peggy: 1947 CJ-2A Light Diesel Build #123456

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Nothing Special Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Sep. 2018 at 3:15am
Originally posted by DieselJeepGuy47 DieselJeepGuy47 wrote:

.... but I think if I put a lock up torque converter along with a manual valve body in the transmission I can effectively lock the input and output shaft of the transmission which would give me a compression brake in each gear which would be selectable. That would allow me to have a nice hill decent with compression braking through the TH350 automatic. 

Again I'm trying to do some more research on this right now, but I believe that would work. 

Thanks
DJG47

A TH350 wouldn't have had a lockup torque converter in any of it's original applications.  Are you sure you'll be able to add that?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RustyAutoholicGuy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Sep. 2018 at 3:24am
Originally posted by Nothing Special Nothing Special wrote:

Originally posted by DieselJeepGuy47 DieselJeepGuy47 wrote:

.... but I think if I put a lock up torque converter along with a manual valve body in the transmission I can effectively lock the input and output shaft of the transmission which would give me a compression brake in each gear which would be selectable. That would allow me to have a nice hill decent with compression braking through the TH350 automatic. 

Again I'm trying to do some more research on this right now, but I believe that would work. 

Thanks
DJG47

A TH350 wouldn't have had a lockup torque converter in any of it's original applications.  Are you sure you'll be able to add that?

Yeah I stand corrected on that one it looks like, I was thinking about the TH350C honestly. However browsing TCI website, they sell a full manual valve body for the TH350 that has engine braking in all three gears so that might be my solution for that one. 

-DJG47
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote bobevans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Sep. 2018 at 3:37am
I had my TH350 rebuilt with a manual valve body, but the biggest motivating factor is that the diesel doesn't pull a vacuum.  With out the manual valve body, we would have to add vacuum, maybe one of the alternators with a vacuum pump built in.  In addition, we picked a low RPM, towing style torque converter.  I've got a couple of pictures in "'Nother diesel build thread" in modifications forum.


I'm certainly no diesel mechanic, but my other thought after reading your plan is thinking that your boost plans are pretty enthusiastic.  Greg Margison has done a number of these things with a turbo with no problems, but the guy that I bought my engine from (Tommy of "Enginemon") cautioned against using any boost.  I'm putting the turbo on mine, back I hope to keep it pretty modest.


Edited by bobevans - 12 Sep. 2018 at 3:45am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote rocnroll Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Sep. 2018 at 5:51am
Ok so I see on the TCI website that a few of the GM valve bodies do indeed claim engine compression braking characteristics.....I stand corrected.

Have never seen this in action. Would like to see one installed to see the offroadaiblty. Interesting idea, I wonder how hard they shift?

Sure wish they offered something for C4s.....I noticed C6 stuff.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote nofender Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Sep. 2018 at 11:20am
Originally posted by rocnroll rocnroll wrote:

Ok so I see on the TCI website that a few of the GM valve bodies do indeed claim engine compression braking characteristics.....I stand corrected.

Have never seen this in action. Would like to see one installed to see the offroadaiblty. Interesting idea, I wonder how hard they shift?

Sure wish they offered something for C4s.....I noticed C6 stuff.


I ran a RMVB in my crawler for a season. It's a TH350 as well. I loved it and hated it. 

For shooting hills, it was great! It would just hold the gear, then you could grab the next when you needed it. Shifts are harsh. These are really race inspired parts. 

For general trail work, it was a pain in the ass. You have to shift every gear - up and down. I just found it annoying after a while. 

I removed it. I went with a Hughes VB that allows me to hold 1 and 2. In drive it acts like a normal auto with a firm but not jarring shift. When I finally dialed in the stall speed, it's sweet! 

I don't miss the compression braking. But I have four wheel disc and some fancy brake bits. So that may not be a fair assessment. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RustyAutoholicGuy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Sep. 2018 at 2:23pm
Originally posted by bobevans bobevans wrote:

I had my TH350 rebuilt with a manual valve body, but the biggest motivating factor is that the diesel doesn't pull a vacuum.  With out the manual valve body, we would have to add vacuum, maybe one of the alternators with a vacuum pump built in.  In addition, we picked a low RPM, towing style torque converter.  I've got a couple of pictures in "'Nother diesel build thread" in modifications forum.


I'm certainly no diesel mechanic, but my other thought after reading your plan is thinking that your boost plans are pretty enthusiastic.  Greg Margison has done a number of these things with a turbo with no problems, but the guy that I bought my engine from (Tommy of "Enginemon") cautioned against using any boost.  I'm putting the turbo on mine, back I hope to keep it pretty modest.

Went through your build thread last night! Great looking project! Looks like it's coming together nicely and it seems that the rear drive line looks decent in size which I was really concerned about! 

I've been talking to Ken at KubotaSwappers who has been doing this swaps into Cherokee XJs. He's been regularly adding 30psi of boost to these engines with intercoolers and proper fueling, which he has his own procedure for tuning. I'm going to be running more around 25psi with the water-to-air intercooler setup. 

I could see these engines running into major problems without the intercooler though. I'm going to have an EGT, IAT, and Boost gauge all in my CJ-2A to monitor everything! Also I will have a Transmission Temperature and Transmission Pressure gauges as well so I can keep an eye on everything that is going on in the engine bay!!!

Originally posted by rocnroll rocnroll wrote:

Ok so I see on the TCI website that a few of the GM valve bodies do indeed claim engine compression braking characteristics.....I stand corrected.

Have never seen this in action. Would like to see one installed to see the offroadaiblty. Interesting idea, I wonder how hard they shift?

Sure wish they offered something for C4s.....I noticed C6 stuff.

Well I'll certainly be installing one in my TH350 because I want the engine braking! I'm aiming to go out to the Colorado Fall Color Tours next year so anyone that wants to see the CJ-2A in action, that is my goal right now!!!

Originally posted by nofender nofender wrote:

Originally posted by rocnroll rocnroll wrote:

Ok so I see on the TCI website that a few of the GM valve bodies do indeed claim engine compression braking characteristics.....I stand corrected.

Have never seen this in action. Would like to see one installed to see the offroadaiblty. Interesting idea, I wonder how hard they shift?

Sure wish they offered something for C4s.....I noticed C6 stuff.


I ran a RMVB in my crawler for a season. It's a TH350 as well. I loved it and hated it. 

For shooting hills, it was great! It would just hold the gear, then you could grab the next when you needed it. Shifts are harsh. These are really race inspired parts. 

For general trail work, it was a pain in the ass. You have to shift every gear - up and down. I just found it annoying after a while. 

I removed it. I went with a Hughes VB that allows me to hold 1 and 2. In drive it acts like a normal auto with a firm but not jarring shift. When I finally dialed in the stall speed, it's sweet! 

I don't miss the compression braking. But I have four wheel disc and some fancy brake bits. So that may not be a fair assessment. 

Interesting and thank you for the information NoFender!!! I wonder if I can find a valve body that has engine braking with a reverse pattern but will be a normal automatic if I go all the way to drive. It really wouldn't surprise me if someone has made a valve body like that. 

I'll go do some investigating and report back on my findings!!!!

Thank you so much everyone for all the responses! It really is helping me figure out all the minute details on my CJ-2A! 
Grant - DieselJeepGuy47


Edited by DieselJeepGuy47 - 12 Sep. 2018 at 2:26pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RustyAutoholicGuy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Sep. 2018 at 3:57pm
Okay some quick updates on my research, though more still needs to be done, on the TH350 options:

Full Manual Reverse Pattern 

Pros:
  • No longer need the kick down cable 
  • No longer need for vacuum from the engine (I don't have any Wink)
  • Will stay in selected gear
  • Quick reverse to 1st gear selecting
  • Engine braking in 1st and 2nd gears
Cons:
  • I shift wrong I grenade my Kubota Diesel Engine Dead
Neutral:
  • Manual shift every gear 
  • Engine braking in all gears when I let off of throttle (again not sure how much that will affect anything)

TransGo Reprogramming Kit

Pros:
  • Will hold 1st and 2nd gear
  • Drive will still be full automatic in Drive 
Cons:
  • Long distance from Reverse to 1st gear
  • Requires vacuum and kick down cable

TH350C with Shift Kit
Pros:
  • I can toggle the torque converter for engine compression braking
  • Full automatic
  • Can be reprogrammed to stay in 1st and 2nd gear
Cons:
  • Long shift from Reverse to 1st
  • No valve bodies
  • Requires Vacuum and Kick down cable

Honestly it's like I wish I could get a mixture of a few. I would love to find a reverse pattern Automatic/Manual valve body that I could use with a lock up torque converter to trigger engine braking honestly, but that just doesn't seem to exist and I understand why. 

I'm leaning towards the first option of a Full Manual Reverse Pattern Valve body at the moment for my TH350. I can get one with engine braking in 1st and 2nd gear so I would not have to ride the brakes on hill descents and I would also have the quick reverse to first gear action for crawling. Also going with a full manual body I eliminate a lot of the external and internal components of the transmission since it will not be doing automatic shifting which will simplify the entire install as well which is a plus as well. 

Let me know your thoughts, just really thinking out loud at the moment Embarrassed

*UPDATE*

So another huge thanks to Ken at KubotaSwappers found out even if I get a Reverse Manual Valve Body with Engine Braking in 1st and 2nd on my TH350 I will need need to add my own J-Brake setup. Diesels don't have any butterfly valve in the intake system so the engine won't inherently slow down the CJ-2A so to add engine compression braking, I will need to add a restrictor valve in the exhaust system so I can using the engine assembly to slow down the CJ-2A when doing hill descents. I'm looking into that now, will setup a toggle switch on the dash to enable the j-brake system. 

Thanks
Grant - DieselJeepGuy47


Edited by DieselJeepGuy47 - 12 Sep. 2018 at 6:46pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote nofender Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Sep. 2018 at 10:56pm
I will add one thing - stall speed. 

A lot will depend on how you dial in the stall. Most autos with the right stall have some inherent compression braking. If you stall is too high - yes - you are just freewheeling down a hill. But with a stall speed that matches your needs and your engine, a quick down shift to get the RPMs in the zone will hold you back surprisingly well. Granted - not RMVB well - but reasonable. 

Someone earlier suggested a low stall for you. I'd say that's pretty dead on advice considering the engine. 

Not trying to dissuade you - but the RMVB may not be your best choice for all around driving. Adding the exhaust brake and the right stall - now you're talking! 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nothing Special Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Sep. 2018 at 12:14am
Originally posted by DieselJeepGuy47 DieselJeepGuy47 wrote:

....  So another huge thanks to Ken at KubotaSwappers found out even if I get a Reverse Manual Valve Body with Engine Braking in 1st and 2nd on my TH350 I will need need to add my own J-Brake setup. Diesels don't have any butterfly valve in the intake system so the engine won't inherently slow down the CJ-2A so to add engine compression braking, I will need to add a restrictor valve in the exhaust system so I can using the engine assembly to slow down the CJ-2A when doing hill descents. I'm looking into that now, will setup a toggle switch on the dash to enable the j-brake system. 

Thanks
Grant - DieselJeepGuy47

Maybe I'm just going too deep into semantics but to me "J-Brake" means a Jake Brake, which is very different than just a restrictor valve in the exhaust.  "Exhaust brakes" are pretty common on light truck diesels, and likely what you want (although I can't speak to how effective they are).  A Jake Brake is more commonly used on heavy trucks.  It opens the exhaust valves at the top of the compression stroke so you get all of the resistance of compressing the air but none of the benefit of it expanding in the power stroke.  Those are very effective.  They are also very LOUD (which is why you frequently see signs as you enter towns saying something like "no engine braking").  Also likely difficult and expensive to fit on an engine.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Sep. 2018 at 1:01am
Jake brakes can be exhausted through the regular exhaust system which quiets them way down. My 2016 T800 Kenworth/Columbia Dump truck has a Cummings engine and a very effective Jake. Which I pretty much leave on all the time (as its controlled by the computer) I never have any trouble running in town with it. Its no where near as loud as most jacked up diesel pickups or rice burners.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lee MN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Sep. 2018 at 1:10am
Originally posted by Mark W. Mark W. wrote:

Jake brakes can be exhausted through the regular exhaust system which quiets them way down. My 2016 T800 Kenworth/Columbia Dump truck has a Cummings engine and a very effective Jake. Which I pretty much leave on all the time (as its controlled by the computer) I never have any trouble running in town with it. Its no where near as loud as most jacked up diesel pickups or rice burners.


No your truck has a Cummins!   

Curious why not a 700R4 ?, same length as the THM350 plus OD

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RustyAutoholicGuy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Sep. 2018 at 1:24am
Originally posted by nofender nofender wrote:

I will add one thing - stall speed. 

A lot will depend on how you dial in the stall. Most autos with the right stall have some inherent compression braking. If you stall is too high - yes - you are just freewheeling down a hill. But with a stall speed that matches your needs and your engine, a quick down shift to get the RPMs in the zone will hold you back surprisingly well. Granted - not RMVB well - but reasonable. 

Someone earlier suggested a low stall for you. I'd say that's pretty dead on advice considering the engine. 

Not trying to dissuade you - but the RMVB may not be your best choice for all around driving. Adding the exhaust brake and the right stall - now you're talking! 

Yup I'm looking into that! I'm defiantly looking into a 1400 ~ 1700 stall converter for the TH350. I'm still not positive on what I'm doing on the transmission, I still doing plenty of reading on it first!

Originally posted by Nothing Special Nothing Special wrote:

Originally posted by DieselJeepGuy47 DieselJeepGuy47 wrote:

....  So another huge thanks to Ken at KubotaSwappers found out even if I get a Reverse Manual Valve Body with Engine Braking in 1st and 2nd on my TH350 I will need need to add my own J-Brake setup. Diesels don't have any butterfly valve in the intake system so the engine won't inherently slow down the CJ-2A so to add engine compression braking, I will need to add a restrictor valve in the exhaust system so I can using the engine assembly to slow down the CJ-2A when doing hill descents. I'm looking into that now, will setup a toggle switch on the dash to enable the j-brake system. 

Thanks
Grant - DieselJeepGuy47

Maybe I'm just going too deep into semantics but to me "J-Brake" means a Jake Brake, which is very different than just a restrictor valve in the exhaust.  "Exhaust brakes" are pretty common on light truck diesels, and likely what you want (although I can't speak to how effective they are).  A Jake Brake is more commonly used on heavy trucks.  It opens the exhaust valves at the top of the compression stroke so you get all of the resistance of compressing the air but none of the benefit of it expanding in the power stroke.  Those are very effective.  They are also very LOUD (which is why you frequently see signs as you enter towns saying something like "no engine braking").  Also likely difficult and expensive to fit on an engine.

Yeah I'm not sure what exactly it's called! So I really might be wrong on that!!!!

Originally posted by Mark W. Mark W. wrote:

Jake brakes can be exhausted through the regular exhaust system which quiets them way down. My 2016 T800 Kenworth/Columbia Dump truck has a Cummings engine and a very effective Jake. Which I pretty much leave on all the time (as its controlled by the computer) I never have any trouble running in town with it. Its no where near as loud as most jacked up diesel pickups or rice burners. 
 

Well good to know!!!!

Originally posted by Lee (MN) Lee (MN) wrote:

Originally posted by Mark W. Mark W. wrote:

Jake brakes can be exhausted through the regular exhaust system which quiets them way down. My 2016 T800 Kenworth/Columbia Dump truck has a Cummings engine and a very effective Jake. Which I pretty much leave on all the time (as its controlled by the computer) I never have any trouble running in town with it. Its no where near as loud as most jacked up diesel pickups or rice burners.


No your truck has a Cummins!   

Curious why not a 700R4 ?, same length as the THM350 plus OD

Lee

Hey Lee,

So the if you get a TH350 and 700r4 both out of a 4x4, the 700r4 is about 4 inches longer than the TH350. However the bigger issues with the 700r4 is the massive 1st to 2nd gear drop in ratios. You'd have to spin the Kubota Diesel so hard to get into a good RPM range for 2nd gear that it just doesn't work. 

So the TH350 is a 2.54 first gear to a 1.54 second gear. The 700r4 is a 3.06 first gear to a 1.62 second gear. That is a massive difference and with a 2800rpm redline on the Kubota V2403, it's just not going to work well. 

Thanks
Grant - DJG47
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RustyAutoholicGuy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Sep. 2018 at 6:18pm
Hey Jeepers,

So I figure I'm due for an update! First on the frame! I'm getting the pieces cut for me now and should have them here in a few weeks, I'm kind of busy over the next couple of weeks so I will hopefully have them here the beginning of October!





Also I got in my paint so I'm going to be starting the process of priming and painting my CJ-2A. I'm not looking for anything show quality here, not even close. I'm going to be taking this 2A out on trails so I want something that I can easily re-spray so Rustoleum Kubota Orange Tractor paint is going to be sprayed on the 2A!



Also got the shop much cleaner and I can not start working on Peggy. Also got all my Jeep and Willy's signs re-arranged as well!!!



Lastly I picked up my TH350 this morning! The NP203 is going to a buddy of mine once I can get it separated and hopefully my Advance Adapter's TH350 <-> Dana 18 adapter gets here soon so I can mate those two items!



Also I'm going to start trying to film and do time-lapse of all the work with my GoPros and post it here. Let me know if that is something y'all would be interested in watching!

Thanks
Grant


Edited by DieselJeepGuy47 - 19 Sep. 2018 at 6:20pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Unkamonkey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Sep. 2018 at 9:22pm
I just have an exhaust brake on my motor home. I find that I have to hit the happy pedal to just keep up to somewhere near the speed limit going down hill. 5.714:1 gears will do that. I used to drive Trail Ridge every weekend in my work van and I got down to where it wanted to stay in 2nd. I just shifted it there and did the rest of the pass in that gear. I believe I only had to hit the brakes once going down the other side. I did not like the stream of cars in front of me with their brake lights on.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Millennium falcon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Sep. 2018 at 3:23am
Cant wait to see it all come together! TimeLapse coverage would be awesome! 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RustyAutoholicGuy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 June 2019 at 8:55pm
Hey 2Aers,


So after this project was put on the back burner until about a month ago when I found all the parts I wanted for my CJ-2A! Here is the video previewing what I'm going to be running in my CJ-2A!




The short 80" wheelbase is killing me for wanting an automatic so out with the V1903 4 cylinder diesel engine and in with the D1503 3 cylinder turbo diesel engine!


Here is the updated build plan for my CJ-2A:


Engine: Kubota D1503 1.5l 3-Cylinder Turbo Diesel (Stock 45HP!)

Transmission: GM TH350 Automatic being upgraded with a Reverse Manual Valve Body with Engine Braking from TCI

Transfer Case: Toyota RF1A being upgraded to 4.70 to 1 Low Range

Frame: Custom Built by Me

Axles: Dana 44s Front and Rear

Gearing: 4.11 gears in the front and rear may upgrade to 3.92 later for the diesel

Lockers: Ox Manual Lockers Front and Rear (Eventually)

Suspension: 2.5 ~ 4" OME Front Leaf Springs from a YJ Wrangler. Subject to change

Grill: 9-Slot Willy's MB Grill

Body: My 1947 CJ-2A Body

Windshield: CJ-3A Rounded Corner Windshield

Tires: 750-16 or 900-16 NDT (I'm on a budget so might go with the cheaper 750-16 tires)

Brakes: GM 3/4 Disc Brakes in the Front and Rear. 

Gauges: New Vintage USA Aviator Gauges for a classic look but modern instrumentation

Lightening: LED Headlights and Taillights

Winch: Warn M8274 with Synthetic Rope

Steering: TBD but possible XJ Cherokee Power Steering or might just go with a Saginaw manual steering box


I plan on using this Jeep to tackle everything from the Rubicon Trail to Moab and anything on either coast of the United States. Some of the detail of this build might change but I hope to get started sometime in July!


Like I said in my video I don't know if this is going to work. It very well might not and if it doesn't I do have a backup plan!


Let me know what you think! I really need to finish My Orange 2006 TJ Wrangler RHD Kubota V2403 swap up first, but finally finding the correct engine/transmission/transfer case combination just jump started getting this CJ-2A build off the ground!


Thanks!

-Grant



Edited by DieselJeepGuy47 - 13 June 2019 at 9:11pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 June 2019 at 9:04pm
I think diesel swaps are pretty neat but I don’t know enough about the Kubota 3 cyl to comment much except to say that 1/4 less horsepower (according to you listed specs) doesn’t seem like an upgrade. My 60 hp Go Devil has a tough time pushing me more than 55 even with the overdrive. And going up any type of a grade pulls me down a lot. Couple that with higher gearing and that little diesel might be really straining in the road gears. But as I said, I don’t know or understand much about the diesel and how the turbo might take up the slack, or not.

I don't think you would be happy with the 900 x 16 NDTs. They are meant for heavy trucks and are VERY stiff. You could probably run them on a CJ2A without any air in them and still get no flex out of them.
In my opinion, the larger size/clearance advantage you get from them would be so out weighed by the miserable ride the small ground patch due to zero flex, that you would hate riding in your Willys and it would be less capable on the trail. 

Probably better to listen to others than me. My experience is limited as is my knowledge.

Looking forward to seeing your project progress.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RustyAutoholicGuy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 June 2019 at 9:14pm
Originally posted by smfulle smfulle wrote:

I think diesel swaps are pretty neat but I don’t know enough about the Kubota 3 cyl to comment much except to say that 1/4 less horsepower (according to you listed specs) doesn’t seem like an upgrade. My 60 hp Go Devil has a tough time pushing me more than 55 even with the overdrive. And going up any type of a grade pulls me down a lot. Couple that with higher gearing and that little diesel might be really straining in the road gears. But as I said, I don’t know or understand much about the diesel and how the turbo might take up the slack, or not.

I don't think you would be happy with the 900 x 16 NDTs. They are meant for heavy trucks and are VERY stiff. You could probably run them on a CJ2A without any air in them and still get no flex out of them.
In my opinion, the larger size/clearance advantage you get from them would be so out weighed by the miserable ride the small ground patch due to zero flex, that you would hate riding in your Willys and it would be less capable on the trail. 

Probably better to listen to others than me. My experience is limited as is my knowledge.

Looking forward to seeing your project progress.


Thank you very much for that! I didn't realize that at all! So maybe just stick with 750-16 8 ply tires then? They are certainly cheaper which really helps the budget!

As for the power, the D1503 is 45hp as it sits right now. Once I add an intercooler, tune the wastegate on the turbo and adjust the fuel screws on the mechanical fuel pump I should be around 70hp and around 130 ~ 140 ft/lbs of torque. I should be able to do 55mph with 4.11 gears just fine, but going to 3.92 would really help lower the RPM of the diesel engine for that!

Thanks
Grant
1947 CJ2A #123456
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