Penetrating Oil |
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Oldpappy
Member Joined: 09 Apr. 2018 Location: Tennessee Status: Offline Points: 4905 |
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Posted: 23 Jan. 2022 at 4:52pm |
Found something that works well.
I have an engine that was seized with the pistons stuck in rusty bores. It had sat for a couple of months with Marvel Mystery oil in each cylinder when I first started trying to tear it down, but I could not get any of the pistons to budge. The Marvel has long been my "go to" for stuff like this but the rust was too much for it. A couple of weeks ago I saw a spray can of "Seafoam Deep Creep" penetrating oil on the shelf at Autozone so I bought a can of it. I wasn't really expecting it to work any better than the Marvel, or PB Blaster, but when I got home I sprayed some in each bore. I went down there and would tap on the pistons with a block of wood and hammer every few days, and then spray some more in. Last Friday two of the pistons freed up enough for me to tap them out, but the other two still wouldn't budge. I warmed those two up just a little with a torch, not hot enough to do much just a little North of warm. Then sprayed more of the oil in those cylinders. Today I was able to tap both of those pistons on out without too much trouble. I am impressed with this product, and thought others might want to try it. It saved me from having to bust the pistons to get them out which is a last resort I try to avoid. |
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If you can't get there in a Jeep you don't need to be there!
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Lee MN
Member Joined: 13 Aug. 2008 Location: Harris, MN Status: Offline Points: 4950 |
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I’ve been using it at work for a couple years now, one of the better products out there!.
Lee |
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LEE
44 GPW-The Perfected Willys 49 2A “If you wait, you only get older” 67 M715 American Made Rolling History |
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Oldpappy
Member Joined: 09 Apr. 2018 Location: Tennessee Status: Offline Points: 4905 |
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Next I will get to find out if it will free up the tappets. I got the retainers off of all the closed valves but can't compress the springs far enough on the open ones. Sprayed the tappets on Friday and was able to tap those for the open valves up out of the way today, but still can't turn the cam, so I sprayed the tappets again and everywhere else around the cam and will see how it goes in a couple of days. If I can't get the rest of the valves and the cam out I may just let the machine shop work with it.
So far this looks like a good block other than the rust on the cylinder walls. I cleaned one of the pistons and confirmed it is still at standard bore so plenty of meat there to take care of the rust. |
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If you can't get there in a Jeep you don't need to be there!
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jeeper50
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 01 Mar. 2008 Location: Spanish Fort AL Status: Offline Points: 2579 |
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Thanks for the info!!
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Belleview ol skool winch soon. '48 CJ2A 283 V8 sm 420 granny low, tera low D18, overdrive,lockers Texan at heart,Alabama by retirement |
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Oldpappy
Member Joined: 09 Apr. 2018 Location: Tennessee Status: Offline Points: 4905 |
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After a one day soak of the Deep Creep I was able to free up the camshaft today, and got all the valves out. The rear tappet is stuck in the down position and interferes with getting the cam out. I warmed it up with my torch, and sprayed some more oil onto it. Will give it another try in a day or so. It is thoroughly stuck, and I can't turn it from the top, so will try tapping it out of the way from the bottom. This one is a real test of the oil.
Edited by Oldpappy - 25 Jan. 2022 at 11:54am |
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If you can't get there in a Jeep you don't need to be there!
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cpt logger
Member Joined: 23 Sep. 2012 Location: Western Colorad Status: Offline Points: 3040 |
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Thanks for the update. I will watch for more updates. Thanks again, Cpt Logger.
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64CJ5
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 15 Nov. 2013 Location: NE Wyoming Status: Offline Points: 942 |
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Sounds like a good item to have on the shelf. I will look for some. Thanks
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64CJ5 "Eeyore"
01TJ "Tigger" 52 M38 Severely demilitarized, "Popeye" The Coast Guard Jeep. 14 JK "Jake" To Trust Government Defys Both History and Reason. PUBLIC LAND Owner/User |
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OnlyOneDR
Member Joined: 05 July 2016 Location: R Status: Offline Points: 459 |
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Have not used that one but I can vouch for Kroil to do similar magic things.
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Searching for time to put it all together...
1950 CJ-3A #37751 In Pieces 1969 Chevy Blazer Resto-Mod Waiting for its day... 2001 Nissan Frontier Crawler Adventure Rig |
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Oldpappy
Member Joined: 09 Apr. 2018 Location: Tennessee Status: Offline Points: 4905 |
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I too like Kroil, but the stuff has gotten hard to find around here and when you do find it very expensive. I have a can of it, but didn't want to use it for this rather big job.
Ended up using most of the can of Seafoam "Deep Creep", but the stuff works pretty darn good. That stuck tappet freed up today and I was able to easily drive it up out of the way and pull the camshaft. Next up is removing the distributor, but that shouldn't be too tough. Then the block is ready to go to the machine shop. I plan to always keep a can of this stuff in the garage.
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If you can't get there in a Jeep you don't need to be there!
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Oldpappy
Member Joined: 09 Apr. 2018 Location: Tennessee Status: Offline Points: 4905 |
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As impressed as I am with the performance of the Seafoam product, it just wouldn't do the trick for the stuck distributor. I had heated the distributor housing at the end of each days effort, and sprayed the Deep Creep onto it, going back the next day and trying again.
I could turn the distributor about 1/3 of the way with a Vice Grip chain clamp, but it did not turn easy, and would bind up and move no further. I tried this every day for more than a week and was about to give up and let the machine shop get it out. Late yesterday I again heated the distributor, let it cool down to warm and this time I squirted Kroil in around the distributor clamp. Went down to the barn about an hour ago, put the chain clamp on it and found it moved easily. With little effort I was able to turn it all the way around, and then it pulled right out. So, the Deep Creep is a good product, but in my opinion Kroil is still the best thing out there for freeing rusted parts.
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If you can't get there in a Jeep you don't need to be there!
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rocnroll
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 20 July 2005 Location: Tuscumbia, AL Status: Offline Points: 13584 |
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Yayyyy!.....good comparison test (but not surprised at the results....its expensive but now we know why) |
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'47 CJ2A PU
'48 CJ2A Lefty "Common sense is not that common" |
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Ron D
Member Joined: 27 Oct. 2019 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 1438 |
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"Good comparison test"? Really? I had to re-read the entire post (especially the part about the distributor) to be sure --- guess I missed the comparison part. Like a stuck lid on the pickle jar, maybe the Deep Creep, heat, and chain wrench loosened things up for the Kroil?
Edited by Ron D - 02 Feb. 2022 at 8:55pm |
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1951 M38
1951 M100 |
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Oldpappy
Member Joined: 09 Apr. 2018 Location: Tennessee Status: Offline Points: 4905 |
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Don't know Ron, all I know is after several days worth of the Deep Creep and working the distributor back and forth until my hand and arm got sore nothing seemed to change, I still could only move it part way and it was not getting easier.
The day after the Kroil was used it turned very easily, and came right out. Could be the Deep Creep started loosening it, and the Kroil finished the job. I don't know how to determine that, just that it did not free up until the Kroil was applied. I plan to keep both on the shelf, as both are good products.
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If you can't get there in a Jeep you don't need to be there!
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WeeWilly
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 07 May 2009 Location: Clayton IN Status: Offline Points: 3423 |
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PREVIEW 11:33 Is Seafoam Deep Creep the Best Penetrating Oil? Let's find ... YouTube · Project Farm Aug 26, 2019 I found this interesting Jim
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47 CJ2A (Ranch Hand) 48 CJ2A, 48 Willys truck, T3C 3782, M274 (Military Mule)
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oldtime
Member Joined: 12 Sep. 2009 Location: Missouri Status: Offline Points: 4184 |
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Best penetrating oil comparison tests I’ve seen were done by “project farm” and admittedly even those tests are sadly lacking.
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
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Ron D
Member Joined: 27 Oct. 2019 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 1438 |
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Yup, I keep a few good products on my shelf too. I found that usually a combination of juices, tools, and techniques will eventually prevail --- especially when I have a good supply of "patience". Most of the so-called "comparison tests" I've seen on the interweb (especially U-tube) are sometimes entertaining, but usually amateur unscientific garbage and a waste of time. There's too many variables involved, especially on 65 year old jeeps.
Edited by Ron D - 02 Feb. 2022 at 10:15pm |
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1951 M38
1951 M100 |
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rocnroll
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 20 July 2005 Location: Tuscumbia, AL Status: Offline Points: 13584 |
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OK sorry I got y'all upset....tough crowd.
Dang, was just some creepy oil .... carry on. |
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'47 CJ2A PU
'48 CJ2A Lefty "Common sense is not that common" |
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Ron D
Member Joined: 27 Oct. 2019 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 1438 |
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Nobody's upset rocnroll (I'm not anyway). It's just a friendly public dialog. As hard as it is to communicate in public forums, I can't help but starting by reading things literally and then try to connect the dots. Sometimes common sense helps, sometimes it doesn't.
Edited by Ron D - 02 Feb. 2022 at 11:20pm |
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1951 M38
1951 M100 |
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