Pope's 1949 CJ3A - 4.3L, SM465, Dana 18 Swap

So stock frame length, stock suspension height (SPUA)? SM465 + AA adapter + Dana18?  Can you please measure and post what's the bell-housing to tcase output flange length? And your rear driveshaft length?

Thanks! 

I towed the Jeep to three different exhaust shops.  One quoted $1,500, one quoted $1,300, and the last one told me to buy parts and then he would quote me to install them.  This is ridiculous.  I could install another engine for that amount of money.

Well, I guess I'm welding my own exhaust.  A quick trip to Napa and I've got exhaust parts coming soon.  

The winch will sit a little lower in the frame rails to allow more air flow into the radiator.  The winch mount will be bolted under the pieces you see here, so the winching force will be pulling "up" on the frame rails...in theory.  I decided that I wanted this winch/winch mount to be removable and not welded into the frame.  I would hate to curse myself later on for welding all of this together without a way to reverse it.  This is especially true if I plan on putting longer springs on the front axle someday.  Gotta clean up these welds a bit.

Later on I will be adding some 2x4" steel tube to appear more like a stock bumper.

I think I have the correct OEM type clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder.  The stroke is a total of 1" or more.  I am also running a factory clutch fork.  When you are trying to swap a Chevy 4.3L onto an SM465, I believe you require a longer throwout bearing and shorter slave pushrod as a result of a greater space in between the flywheel and the bearing retainer of the SM465...we shall see.  I could be proven wrong.  With a longer throwout bearing and shorter pushrod, the slave "should" start disengaging the clutch earlier at the top of the pedal stroke.  We have parts on order.  In the meantime, I will be removing the bellhousing and transmission.  I think I have a good plan to get it fixed.  Good thing I didn't bolt the body down!

On the bright side, it was 10F degrees today.  What a great time to pull the transmission in an unheated garage!

For the benefit of others, here are the links for other builds that have run into similar situations.  Both are very helpful.

I ordered the Novak adjustable bearing just as you did.  I anticipate a little adjustment as I attempt the installation.  

Thus far, I think my master and slave are correct.  Here is my theory: I will determine the thickness of the throwout bearing needed by nearly bottoming out the clutch fork against the SM465 bearing retainer, then add 1/16" for the air gap needed.  By nearly bottoming the clutch fork out, this will place the slave cylinder in the start of its stroke / fully compressed.  I will then trim the slave pushrod to that length and maybe a touch longer to account for clutch wear.  By my math, it means the clutch will engage at the top of the pedal stroke and fully disengage the clutch after 1" or so.  I will know more when I take the transmission off and tinker a bit.  We shalll see!