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Pope's 1949 CJ3A - 4.3L, SM465, Dana 18 Swap |
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Pope891 
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Joined: 13 May 2018 Location: Ridgefield, CT Status: Offline Points: 378 |
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 Posted: 23 Feb. 2021 at 7:28pm |
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Well, there is a first time for everything. My throwout bearing is the incorrect length.
 For those mating a Chevy 4.3 to an SM465, you will likely need to get a longer throwout bearing. Like I mentioned earlier, this wasn't a complete surprise. In my excitement to get the engine running, I discounted the importance of this critical measurement. Per Novak, here are the instructions: https://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/clutches-etc Here are my measurements for those who are interested: 1. Bearing retainer land to bellhousing face measurement: 5.7" 2. Diaphragm fingers to block face measurement: 3.7" 3. Air gap desired: 0.12” 4. Disc wear / finger rise allowance: .12" Result: 5.7” - 3.7” - 0.12” - 0.12" = 1.76” overall length for throwout bearing As you can see, my throwout bearing is about 0.5" too short, hence why it wouldn't fully disengage the clutch. Lesson learned.  |
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Pope891
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Joined: 13 May 2018 Location: Ridgefield, CT Status: Offline Points: 378 |
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Posted: 05 Mar. 2021 at 5:11pm |
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For the sake of others trying to mate an 4.3L to an SM465, I thought I would memorialize information regarding the throwout bearing. This is a result of a conversation with Jpet, studying Jpet's build and the thread on Pirate (above).
The hydraulic throwout bearing, once installed, is designed to be riding lightly on the fingers of the pressure plate. The spring mechanism in the hydraulic slave cylinder will always lightly return the bearing to this position. On a mechanical clutch, this is not the case. There is a lot of information on the web about a "small air gap" between the throwout bearing and the fingers of the pressure plate, which confused me and cost me time and frustration. Using the measurements above from Novak, you should look for about 1/16" or a touch more of wiggle room between the rear of the throwout bearing and the bearing retainer that is bolted to the transmission once you have tranny bolted in place. If other words, once everything is bolted up, the throwout bearing should be able to wiggle a bit, but not more than say, about 1/8". I am finding that 3/16" is too much. Too much wiggle room and your pedal will feel too light at the top of the stroke and might not fully disengage the clutch, if at all. You also don't want zero wiggle room because you need to account for a bit of clutch wear over time, which will cause the pressure plate fingers to move rearward towards the bearing. Next step: remove the 300+ pound transmission+xfer case for the third time and adjust my throwout bearing...again. But hey, at least I'm learning something new.
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Pope891
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Joined: 13 May 2018 Location: Ridgefield, CT Status: Offline Points: 378 |
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Posted: 10 Mar. 2021 at 2:08pm |
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Quick update: I ended up ordering this adjustable throwout bearing because Novak is backed up for weeks.
Here is my current setup:
My pedal travel is about 7" and firm all the way through. I might be adjusting my pedal height later. At first I was concerned because I would press the clutch and the pressure plate fingers would travel at least 0.55" (which is the distance the fingers need to travel to release an 11" Chevy clutch per Novak's website), but the jeep wouldn't move without vigorous effort and the driveline was still engaged. I realized that this clutch was installed about 1 year ago and hasn't hasn't been released from the flywheel/pressure plate in quite a while, so I think it's a little sticky and maybe lightly "fused" together. Sure enough, I unplugged the ignition, put the jeep in 1st gear and hit the starter...a little movement in the tires. That made me nervous. Then 2nd gear...hit the starter...no movement. Great! The clutch is free! So I think I have a new/sticky clutch that I will need a break-in period. I'm quite certain I have enough travel in the throwout bearing. Success! I've got a check list of items to finish off and this thing should be road worthy pretty soon. Thanks for tuning in. |
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Pope891
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Joined: 13 May 2018 Location: Ridgefield, CT Status: Offline Points: 378 |
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Posted: 15 Mar. 2021 at 2:00pm |
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After some fiddling yesterday, I finally drove the Jeep under its own power. The clutch is buttery smooth, which is great news. The brakes need some more tuning/bleeding but it stops ok. The brake rotors still have some rust on them. I need to tuck away wiring, finalize the battery tray, bolt down the body for good and then it will be ready for a legitimate shake down run.
I also tried four-low at 87:1....oh boy! Low gearing is SO cool.
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Pope891
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Joined: 13 May 2018 Location: Ridgefield, CT Status: Offline Points: 378 |
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Posted: 17 Mar. 2021 at 12:42am |
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For your viewing pleasure. 87:1 baby!
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uncamoney
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Joined: 26 June 2019 Location: greeley co Status: Offline Points: 451 |
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Posted: 17 Mar. 2021 at 1:04am |
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Good to see it going, the shifters are part of the learning curve. People ask about the 5 shift levers in my Jeep. I used to return trucks to their yards, okey dokey, 2 shifters, 20 speeds foreward. Interesting shift patterens.
The 1953 Mack was my favorite.
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john
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Pope891
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Joined: 13 May 2018 Location: Ridgefield, CT Status: Offline Points: 378 |
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Posted: 18 Mar. 2021 at 7:06pm |
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Yeah, it was only the 3rd time I've ever driven it. Refining as I go.
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Rich M.
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Joined: 03 Oct. 2015 Location: 21757 Status: Offline Points: 185 |
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Posted: 18 Mar. 2021 at 7:57pm |
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Sweet!
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Pope891
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Joined: 13 May 2018 Location: Ridgefield, CT Status: Offline Points: 378 |
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Posted: 26 Mar. 2021 at 2:03pm |
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If you have read this entire thread you would have noticed the firewall was already notched from a previous owner. This allowed me to squeeze the distributor just inside the cowl.
Well, my original plan of using the mechanical fan and custom made shroud wasn't going to work. I've decided on using a two speed Ford Taurus fan and a Volvo fan relay. There are other places on the web to learn about this. This particular fan is supposed to be high volume. I sure am glad that I jammed the engine far enough back because this fan is a tight fit!  Second on the list is the rear seat. When I bought this jeep, it came with this frame. From my research, I think it's from a Scout that has been narrowed to fit a flatfender. Pretty neat. It appears to be comfortable enough and has a little under-seat storage capacity.  I'm still fiddling with wiring under the dash. I really want to take my time with electrical stuff because I wasn't particularly proud of my wiring on my last project. Next, fuel return line will be refined. My homemade bung was a leaky nightmare.
Edited by Pope891 - 30 Mar. 2021 at 2:17pm |
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Barry S
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Joined: 01 Mar. 2020 Location: Ohio Status: Offline Points: 662 |
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Posted: 26 Mar. 2021 at 10:29pm |
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Just finished reading your entire thread. Great job! I especially enjoyed your first drive video. Looking forward to more. Thanks for sharing!
-Barry
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1947 CJ2A 93664 "Grasshopper"
1947 CJ2A 90729 194? CJ2A 04893/194304 1946 CJ2A 46745 1946 CJ2A 36723 1945 MB 413665 1971 CJ5 8305017 375392 Drive train parts donor Bantam Trailer T3-C 25487 |
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Pope891
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Joined: 13 May 2018 Location: Ridgefield, CT Status: Offline Points: 378 |
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Posted: 27 Mar. 2021 at 12:38am |
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Thanks for reading Barry. It's been fun trip.
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Pope891
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Joined: 13 May 2018 Location: Ridgefield, CT Status: Offline Points: 378 |
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Posted: 30 Mar. 2021 at 2:15pm |
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For those of you trying to create a fuel return for fuel injection on a stock CJ tank, this is an option. Classic Performance makes a universal fuel return bung with an AN fitting for blind side installations. Please ignore the sheet metal screws and sealant....that was my bubba attempt at making my own fuel return
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Pope891
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Joined: 13 May 2018 Location: Ridgefield, CT Status: Offline Points: 378 |
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Posted: 26 Apr. 2021 at 2:06pm |
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For the last month, I've been driving the heck out of this jeep. It's very reliable, no major leaks, temps are running between 180-215F. Oil is clean. I still have bunch of little stuff to do, but those are things I can chip away at over time.
Over the weekend, I got high centered over a log in my backyard in about 12" of greasy mud.  The 87:1 gear ratio is incredible. With the engine is barely idling, it will climb over anything. Having fuel injection is great too. The clutch is buttery smooth and the brakes stop on a dime. I will say, the SM465 and 5:38 axle ratio isn't ideal on the road. I might as well be driving a logging truck with these ratios. I don't have a speedo yet, but while driving at 45ish mph the engine is racing pretty well. An overdrive might be in my future. Like I said, there are lots of little "tweaks" that need attention. For now, I'm just having fun.
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Barry S
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Joined: 01 Mar. 2020 Location: Ohio Status: Offline Points: 662 |
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Posted: 26 Apr. 2021 at 3:47pm |
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Looks great! With the V6 power an overdrive would be the cat's pajamas on the road. Having fun is what it's all about!
-Barry
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1947 CJ2A 93664 "Grasshopper"
1947 CJ2A 90729 194? CJ2A 04893/194304 1946 CJ2A 46745 1946 CJ2A 36723 1945 MB 413665 1971 CJ5 8305017 375392 Drive train parts donor Bantam Trailer T3-C 25487 |
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Pope891
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Joined: 13 May 2018 Location: Ridgefield, CT Status: Offline Points: 378 |
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Posted: 26 Apr. 2021 at 3:54pm |
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Thanks Barry. It's been a blast so far.
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ggordon49
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Posted: 26 Apr. 2021 at 4:08pm |
Yeah!! And power steering to boot!
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- Don't Let The Fatherless Ones Grind You Down -
- I like them stock, survivor's with original paint are my favorites - |
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Pope891
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Joined: 13 May 2018 Location: Ridgefield, CT Status: Offline Points: 378 |
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Posted: 26 Apr. 2021 at 5:41pm |
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Yeah, between a really slow crawl ratio and power steering, you are allowed time to think and adjust in complicated scenarios rather than bounce off stuff and risk breaking things. Fun stuff.
One finger steering is the best!
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Pope891
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Joined: 13 May 2018 Location: Ridgefield, CT Status: Offline Points: 378 |
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Posted: 07 June 2021 at 1:51pm |
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A few updates.
My fuel pump and filters are located behind the drive side fender. This allows the bottom of the fuel pump to be located at the same level as the bottom of the fuel tank. That way, I don't need to worry about sucking up air when I'm off camber or running low on gas. It also keep the fuel pump and filters away from the heat of the manifold and exhaust pipe. Initially, I tried locating the filter and pump inside the frame rail, but it was too close to the exhaust pipe for my comfort and would be difficult to maintain in the future.  This location might not be great for fording rivers, but it works for now. Maybe I'll do an in-tank pump someday. With this current configuration I was concerned that if I drove through a deep mud bog, I would lodge mud in this location and damage the pump, so I decided to create a protective panel.  I still have a bit of trimming and painting to do, but you get the idea. It will be strong enough to protect from flying rocks, mud and the occasional bump on an obstacle. The fuel pump is still about 20" off the ground.  |
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Barry S wrote: