Project Yancy 46 CJ2a |
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ovrlnd
Member Joined: 18 Feb. 2008 Location: MIchigan Status: Offline Points: 1746 |
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Posted: 13 Apr. 2008 at 1:16am |
well it's been a couple of months and I have been plugging away at the build for the flatfender. got some progress done so I'll post some pics and update as I go.
the NEW MODIFIED build plan: stock drive line: L134, T90, Dana 18, Dana 41 rear, Dana 25 front. Suspension will be 1" Rancho Springs with Black Diamond Shocks with H shackles. wheels: Stock Tires: 700-16 NDT color will be olive drab it's not going to be an "according to hoyle" restoration. much will stay original but a lot of stuff will be updated. the frame, front hood, windshield, grill, and fenders will stay. the tub will be tossed eventually as it is piece patched together and out of square and too much trouble to fix. either a new tub or one that is in repairable condition. so far the rear axle has been stripped treated, primed and painted. new stainless cover bolts, new rear driver wheel cylinder and new bent rear brakeline with stainless retainer clamps. I have removed all the windshield bracketry, trans covers, boot rings, rear bumpstop blocks, rear floor mount which were all cleaned in the electrolysis tank, then cleaned, primed and painted. no old bolts are being used so I got all new stainless fasteners for the items removed. anything for the frame like the rear crossmember bolts are being replaced with grade 8 units. windshield after all 53 drilled holes from whatever were welded closed and ground smooth before paint removal. stripped ready for it's journey of bodywork some of the rear axle refinishing pix complete with my oil finger smears on the inspection cover LOL! new rear crossmember mocked in place some of the cleaned and painted parts living on the shelf NEW MODIFIED1" RanchoStock700-16 NDTNEW MODIFIED1" Rancho Springs with Black Diamond Shocks 700-16 NDTStock Edited by ovrlnd - 17 July 2008 at 2:32pm |
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monte
Member Joined: 22 Feb. 2008 Location: Norman Oklahoma Status: Offline Points: 276 |
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Looks like you're doin it right... wished I had that windshield!
Edited by monte - 13 Apr. 2008 at 1:53am |
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"Stump Jumper" Colorado ex-patriot...
"If it don't leak it aint a Jeep" |
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ovrlnd
Member Joined: 18 Feb. 2008 Location: MIchigan Status: Offline Points: 1746 |
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there was enough paint on it to share, I used a semi organic stripper and it worked very well. colors removed from top to bare metal 1 metallic forest green 2 gray primer 3 bright orange 4 bright red 5 dark red 6 bluish gray 7 bare metal |
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monte
Member Joined: 22 Feb. 2008 Location: Norman Oklahoma Status: Offline Points: 276 |
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haha sounds like mine the paint was holding it together!
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"Stump Jumper" Colorado ex-patriot...
"If it don't leak it aint a Jeep" |
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ovrlnd
Member Joined: 18 Feb. 2008 Location: MIchigan Status: Offline Points: 1746 |
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not much to update however I did get some new to me parts from a seller bout an hour away from me who has a bunch of 46-47 parts.
parts: passenger fender tailgate with minor rust repairable. awesome super straight undented hood drag links ross box and column shaft back portion of a tub with the rear seat clips on it a lightly cracked but repairable steering wheel. $125 and traded him a cj5 roll bar I had. he had a lot of stuff. says he may have a pass seat frame and rear seat frame and will let me know. unfortunately no inner windshield frames :( |
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ovrlnd
Member Joined: 18 Feb. 2008 Location: MIchigan Status: Offline Points: 1746 |
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well I will try to get some pix up this weekend of my progress. well i should say our progress as my mother in law is helping me big time with all the hard work. the outer windshield frame body work is coming along nicely with the major dings bumped out we put the first layer of filler on and sanded it down and it is looking great leaving only a nice very thin layer. only the backside of the skin remains to be worked. we also got the steering wheel cracks filled and sanded, that too is looking really great and getting me excited. just have to figure out what type of finish will adhere well to it. I wanted a nice vintage feel for "gaskets" for the master cylinder cover, trans cover and pto cover. mom in law went to a local leather shop and got some great leather and stain to make some nice gaskets and we are working on them now.
Also the polyurethane frame bushings came in so I see a new suspension in it's future. I also have a line on a early disk brake open knuckle dana 30 I may pick up and decide if it should go in later. hopefully in a few weeks I'll be able to get the "new" hood, fenders and tailgate to the stripper and get going on those. |
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ovrlnd
Member Joined: 18 Feb. 2008 Location: MIchigan Status: Offline Points: 1746 |
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ok, so the pix are late but I have been a busy one lately. here are some pix of the work on the windshield, cut out the skin where someone had previously attached a mirror (earlier pix show a patch of blue bondo in this area) and welded in a new clean patch. have been doing some hood work on the new to me hood and it is in the process of being stripped. the w.s. frame has a first coat of primer and the holes that were previously used by sheet metal screws have been drilled and tapped for 10/32 hardware including the holes for the cowl seal. the leather gaskets for the pto cover, master cylinder access cover and trans cover are awaiting the second oil stain but looking good. I had my mother in law tear down the lockouts and clean them up. one is still awaiting finishing and the other was put on for a test fit (hence the blue sealer until my replacement gasket set arrives). missing pix still of the refinished steering wheel and the driver side hub, drum, backing plate I removed stripped, painted and replaced. but soon all the front brake lines will be redone by myself as I begin to tear apart the front axle. going good and having fun.
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rocnroll
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 20 July 2005 Location: Tuscumbia, AL Status: Offline Points: 13563 |
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Dammmmmn! ?
Edited by rocnroll - 30 May 2008 at 1:25am |
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'47 CJ2A PU
'48 CJ2A Lefty "Common sense is not that common" |
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trader_reed
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2005 Location: Ireland Status: Offline Points: 2201 |
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I'll Second That!!
DAMMMMMMM!
I know who wears the pants in that house! Yea tell her while she's at it to change the oil too!
Really, It's nice to have help. Way to go MOM Edited by trader_reed - 30 May 2008 at 1:29am |
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Keith.Tracy
Member Joined: 27 Sep. 2006 Location: Hydes, MD Status: Offline Points: 573 |
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ovrlnd
Member Joined: 18 Feb. 2008 Location: MIchigan Status: Offline Points: 1746 |
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got some more progress done but not as much as I would have liked. made the tie in plate from the v-brace to the crossmember. then removed both for prime and painting. removed the muffler to get at the frame in the rear and start the rust removal. some pitting and weld marks but nothing serious. unfortunately I have to do the frame in sections and don't have the room to separate the body so the top of the frame or interference areas will have to wait until I can get at them better. took about 3 hours of working with various wire wheels, scotch brites and the like to get all the areas to the metal and then started the coating with the rust converter. I only took pix after the first coat but you get the idea. once dry I put on the OD chassis paint. it is a little lighter that the other OD I am using but am real happy with the two tone OD.
Pic of the driver front brake assembly: The steering wheel: I need a new nut but the wheel itself came out pretty nice. Crossmember and plate: First Coat of Rust converter: OD Chassis Coat 1: |
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F Bill
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 05 Dec. 2005 Location: central Texas Status: Offline Points: 7752 |
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I'm bettin the drums were Krylon khaki drab and the frame was 33807 WWII OD? I have two entire jeeps painted in that krylon stuff from walmart.
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If you haven't checked out the tech FAQ section, go to:
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/tech-faq_forum57.html for a lot of great stuff you need to know!! |
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ovrlnd
Member Joined: 18 Feb. 2008 Location: MIchigan Status: Offline Points: 1746 |
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funnay. yeah the chassis is a military paint. the axle is the darker rattle can. I have used the krylon over self etching primer with nice results and no chalking on the items on my other jeep. it should give me a good idea for right now. in the end I can always respray it out of the gun with the military stuff. the only thing I don't like about the krylon is that it is a dust magnet where as the military stuff is a smoother finish. Edited by ovrlnd - 25 June 2008 at 4:47am |
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ovrlnd
Member Joined: 18 Feb. 2008 Location: MIchigan Status: Offline Points: 1746 |
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posting up some of the progress made on this build. it's going well and I just keep plugging along at it. photos are from middle of july to beginning of august.
time to rebuild the front end. drained the fluid and pulled everything apart so it could be cleaned, stripped of rust if needed and repainted. I installed new inner seals, new kingpin bearing and races, new knuckle seals and front hub seals. wheel bearings were fine so I cleaned and repacked them. all new tie rod ends, remove and clean up bell crank and drag link. new wheel cylinders and new brake lines I made (including the "S" lines, which were a pain) LOL patiently waiting parts starting to go back together but waiting on the wheel cylinder I forgot to add on my parts order.:sonicjay: the refinished front cover with new stainless hardware more parts waiting for their turn shackles before painting urethane bushing kit for the new shackles some more frame work progress on the hood some hood priming then I got the rancho 1" replacement springs with black diamond hydraulic shocks for the new suspension. new crossmember and plate installed now working on mocking up the windshield. got a replacement inner frame from 4wd hardware. had a problem with the cowl mounts as I didn't have the 2a correct ones so ordered some and was back on track. I am using plexiglas for my mock up pic of first install (shows the hood painted too) currently setting up the the wipers and deciding on how to wire them. |
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ovrlnd
Member Joined: 18 Feb. 2008 Location: MIchigan Status: Offline Points: 1746 |
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got some more done on yancy. disassebled the windshield frame after getting everything fit and got the outer frame painted. took the inner to have glass installed and ordered some parts to finish up the frames. I thought it would be a good idea to coat the tips of the inner latch hooks with plasti-dip, however I am regretting it now and even with minimal latching it is coming off so I will have to re-strip and re-paint those two parts. today (9/8) got the the inner frame back with the glass installed. I had the glass done at Laird glass and those guys did a great job and am very happy with it. pulled the cloth ashphalt loom over the wiper wires and got it all hooked up. still need 3 10/32 stainless button heads to finish the clamps. New cowl seal installed and the inner/outer seal installed which was a major pain, I used tons of soap but still had to glue it back together where it tore in 3 spots but for the time being I can live with it.
the outer painted and installed pics with new glassed inner frame all assembled and the accessories on it. and the 1946 plate I got for it. I was excited that the JP were the first two letters. |
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Dez
Member Joined: 05 May 2008 Location: Pinedale, WY Status: Offline Points: 774 |
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Why are you junking the body?? It looks perfectly fine. LOOKS GOOD!!! Could you take measurement from the floor to the lip of the fender? I'm wondering if a 1" lift is what i need for my 2a
Edited by Dez - 06 Sep. 2008 at 3:59am |
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ovrlnd
Member Joined: 18 Feb. 2008 Location: MIchigan Status: Offline Points: 1746 |
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dez. don't let the pics fool you on the body. there is very little good about it. it is 95% misc. sheet metal patches and bondo. the passenger seat is a kitchen chair made to fit . the tail light area is tin sheet over what is left of the rotting original tub as are the sides and rockers. every time I use an air tool to remove a bolt more of the tub falls to the garage floor. it's been hacked up pretty good. the only good thing is the front cowl area, and driver floor forward of the seat. even that is questionable. from the underside it is nothing short of a rust festival. I knew this when I bought it and was more basing the purchase on the frame, drivetrain and that it ran and is drivable. at this moment I am not sure what is really holding the body together. the driver fender is is great shape as was the grill and hood.
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Dez
Member Joined: 05 May 2008 Location: Pinedale, WY Status: Offline Points: 774 |
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Its a Trickster body :P, Could you get that measurement for me?
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