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PTO shaft
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markcl52 View Drop Down
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    Posted: 11 July 2020 at 2:21pm
I’ve started the work to fit a Koenig PTO winch I acquired a few years ago. One section of the PTO shaft is spliced and I will be replacing it once I finalize the measurements. The bushing is also pretty crude. I think it attached to the frame rail and bell housing. I’d like to replace it and make the whole thing attach to the bell housing. I can’t seem to find any pictures anymore of this setup. Does anyone have a setup like this? A picture of the bellhousing bracket and type of bearing / bushing used would also be helpful. Thanks
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SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A View Drop Down
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I don't have any information about mounting the PTO shaft to the bellhousing. but I did notice that the slip portion of the shaft (the square part) is 90 degrees out of phase. On each section of the driveshaft the yoke eyes need to face the same direction. This would be true for the spliced section you plan to repair. Yoke eye on each end of that particular section should face the same direction. This wouldn't be critical if the driveshaft were perfectly straight but if you need to route the driveshaft to miss exhaust pipe for example the mis-phasing will introduce vibration into the driveshaft. It will become more noticeable the faster the driveshaft rotates.

This is not only true of PTO drivelines, but also the driveshafts that go from the transfer case to the axles.
46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red" (bought April 1969)(second owner)(12 V, 11" brakes, M-38 frame, MD Juan tub)

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Look at the last page of the document linked below:


Post with links to many Koenig manuals here:
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Stev View Drop Down
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I have done a few front PTO winch setups.  One Koenig

There are somethings to consider:

1.  The idler on the Koenig is very crude and can be replaced with a flanged bearing.  If you go the flanged bearing route, consider making a bracket that mounts to the engin using 4 of the oil pan bolts.  Mount the flange bearing to the bracket.  This will also get the idler away from the choke point at the bell housing which is pretty crowded.
2. Instead of using the spline, use a long slip yoke on the center universal joint.  Position the long yoke side towards the rear  of the Jeep.  
3. Consider positioning the slip yoke Joint around the area of the oil pan drain hole.  I have had good luck making the long rear section of the drive line level and ending it (with its yoke) just be short of the front to the engine.  Also try to keep the angle as shallow as you can on the drive line.
4. The standard exhaust will have to be modified.  If you are not doing a Hysterical restoration consider using a MB - WWII style exhaust.  It is a super easy install and gets the whole exhaust mess out of the way.
 


Edited by Stev - 14 July 2020 at 6:13pm
Stev
1946 CJ2A Trail Jeep (The Saint), 1948 CJ2A Lefty Restored
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markcl52 View Drop Down
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OnlyOneDR - thanks for the links to the Koenig documents. 

Stev - very helpful information. I have started to mock up the fit and it is one big jigsaw puzzle. For the winch, how far to the drivers side do you position it to clear the bellcrank. I’m thinking it needs to be around 2” off center. It also seems like keeping it up a little higher and a litttle further back towards the grill will increase my clearance of the bellcrank. Is that your experience too? My winch winds from the bottom and mounts at the center line (vs the bottom). Thanks 
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Picture looking forward - Pillow block located forward of the bell housing (lower Right of the Picture)


Drivers side PTO winch drive line slip yoke.



Use a broom handle/ dowl to mock it up.  Once you have the back section of the driveline broom handle figured out.  Cut it and duct tape a second section of broom handle to it so you can get its angle and length for the front.  

  
Stev
1946 CJ2A Trail Jeep (The Saint), 1948 CJ2A Lefty Restored
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Steelyard Blues View Drop Down
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Will this work?
 
 
Micah
1947 CJ2A 106327, Engine J109205, Tub 97077. Luzon Red

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SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A View Drop Down
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Originally posted by Steelyard Blues Steelyard Blues wrote:


Will this work?
 
 
Micah


uh...no.

There is no slip section to account for minor changes in the length of the shaft. This will cause wear and/or damage on the PTO shaft itself and possibly the bearings in the PTO box or the winch.

The u-joints in the PTO shaft that you call out are a non-serviceable type. I would recommend the type of u-joint kits and yokes that are of the Spicer 1000 series u-joint. The u-joint kit that fits this series of yokes is Spicer part number 5-170X. The yokes and kit of this series is available at many Auto parts stores or implement dealers and at all driveline warehouses.




Edited by SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A - 16 July 2020 at 3:59am
46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red" (bought April 1969)(second owner)(12 V, 11" brakes, M-38 frame, MD Juan tub)

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