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Question for the purists: tiedowns?

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takesiteasy View Drop Down
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    Posted: 24 Nov. 2018 at 5:44pm
I have finished the renovation of our Bantam T3-C. At this point it is pretty close to original condition, with the exception of the tail lights and safety chains, which I updated for safety reasons, and the addition of shocks.





Now I want to use the trailer for hauling cargo as it was intended. After one trip hauling some furniture, I am considering adding D-rings to the floor to make it possible to tie down items during transport or to use a cargo net. I used the tarp hooks but they are not useful for items that sit below the height of the sides. I anticipate having a tarp or lid in the future. We will be using the trailer on camping trips where we travel on uneven terrain and things need to be restrained.

I'm thinking of bolting D-rings through the floor to the frame supports below in the corners and at the frame cross members next to the wall. They would be unobtrusive. It wouldn't be difficult in the future to remove them and patch the holes if someone wanted the trailer to appear totally original. At the same time I am reluctant to go drilling holes in the floor and frame.

I wanted to get a reaction to this idea from folks here who care about the trailers. What do you think of this idea? Do you have any other ideas of how to secure cargo inside the box under a tarp or lid? Please weigh in with your thoughts. Thanks.




Edited by takesiteasy - 24 Nov. 2018 at 5:46pm
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cal.bar View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cal.bar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Nov. 2018 at 7:19pm
Why not just use footman loops like on the jeep.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rus Curtis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Nov. 2018 at 8:08pm
My trailer came with holes on the ribs along the sides - but only on one side....   I was thinking of adding matching holes on the other side to use eye bolts or a board with screws through the outside.  Footman loops are a good idea.  Anything added like D rings/eye bolts or footman loops will add "bumps" that cargo will have to slide over or by as its being loaded/unloaded.
 
I've seen some counter sunk D rings but I suspect that would require more cutting.
Rus Curtis
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1954 CJ3B
Bantam T3-C
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takesiteasy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote takesiteasy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Nov. 2018 at 10:20pm
Yeah, I like the idea of footman loops- stay in the same format as the jeeps. I could put them parallel and close to the sides so they wouldn't be in the way of cargo. Could only use small bolts though- I wonder if they would have sufficient holding power.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sm1986 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Nov. 2018 at 10:55pm
cargo tension bars?
sm 46 CJ-2A 16265
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takesiteasy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote takesiteasy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Nov. 2018 at 11:10pm
I've considered the tension bars but it seems like the sidewalls really aren't stiff enough to get much holding power without bowing out. I haven't tried them though so I don't really know.

Nice looking jeep!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fred Coldwell Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Nov. 2018 at 1:14am
In the pickup bed of my 1990 Dodge 3/4 ton 4x4, I installed along each side 4 stainless steel eye bolts as anchor points for 1", 1.5", 2" and even 3" wide ratchet straps. They are DIN 580 Machine Shoulder Lift Eye bolts M10 316 SS with a 10 mm threaded shank.  I bought mine through Wal-Mart's web site, but they were shipped from Red Hound Auto. Being stainless steel they are mildly bright and will never rust.  A bag of 8 cost only $24.99 with free shipping. I had to buy 10 mm hex nuts, large fender washers and lock washers at my local hardware store, no big deal. 

You could put 3 (or 4) of these evenly spaced along each side of your Bantam. Being at floor level, they are excellent anchor points for securing cargo downward to the floor.  The hole in the eye easily accepts two rubber coated hooks on the 1" to 2" wide ratchet straps, or one double prong metal hook on the 3" wide yellow heavy duty ratchet straps. Moreover, it likely would be unusual that your cargo would exactly fill the full footprint of the Bantam's floor, both side-to-side and front-to-back, so as a practical matter I doubt the eye bolts along each side would prevent you from hauling your most likely Bantam trailer cargo loads.   

The drawback I see to using jeep-size footman loops is that only the 2" wide ratchet strap STRAP would fit through them and then you would be securing the load with the strap fabric, a weaker attachment point than the rubber coated hook on the end of the 1" to 2" wide ratchet strap.  I am very pleased with the versatility of the rock-solid anchor points provided by these stainless steel eye bolts in my Dodge pickup truck. I recommend them for your Bantam if you are going to be hauling cargo.   
Happy Jeep Trails,


Fred Coldwell
Denver, CO
1944 CJ2-09 - X-33
1945 CJ2-26 - X-50
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nofender Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Nov. 2018 at 9:19am
My trailer build is far from original. But i am attempting to keep a certain vintage flavor. 

To that end, I welded these little puppies in. They would be very easy to cut off and return a trailer to it's more pure form. You could add a couple of these to the floor. I chose to put them up on the ridge so I retain a flat floor. I placed them in such a way that they land in the foot print of the external tie down loop. So the tug forces won't be on sheet metal only. In other words the foot of the hook on the outside becomes the backing plate for the internal tie down.

Not sure if you want to do any welding at this point, seeing as you've already painted. Just an idea for you that keeps you from drilling holes which are tougher to fix than cutting these away. 

you can get these and all sorts of nifty tabs and so on here: 

https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/MISCTABS.html






Edited by nofender - 25 Nov. 2018 at 9:24am
46 CJ2A rockcrawler
46 CJ2A resto-mod
51 Bantam-ish trailer
68-ish CJ5
50-ish Sterling trailer
15 Grand (Mrs Nofender)
19 Hemi Ram (parts hauler)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fred Coldwell Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Nov. 2018 at 1:52pm
Here are two photos of the M10 stainless steel eye bolts:




If you ever need to remove these eye bolts to fit a full floor footprint load, just unbolt them.  The holes left behind in the floor can act as drain holes after your haul and during subsequent storage. Or you can put carriage bolts in the holes to fill them until you need the eye bolts again. And its easy to reinstall the eye bolts by just putting them back in the holes and tightening the 10 mm nuts underneath the fender washer and lock washer; no need to grind 4 welds to remove them or re-weld them at 4 points to reinstall them. Smaller size eye bolts are also available. Hope these photos and easy use features are helpful. Smile


Edited by Fred Coldwell - 25 Nov. 2018 at 2:04pm
Happy Jeep Trails,


Fred Coldwell
Denver, CO
1944 CJ2-09 - X-33
1945 CJ2-26 - X-50
1946 CJ2A-12797

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takesiteasy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote takesiteasy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Nov. 2018 at 7:18pm
Fred and nofender, thanks for the ideas.

Here's another idea I found. I like the simplicity of it. Could use hooks or carabiners to attach straps. Uses a 3/8" bolt which should be sufficient strength:





Edited by takesiteasy - 05 Dec. 2018 at 10:00pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PackRat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Nov. 2018 at 2:37pm
Hmm...if you are concerned with putting holes in the sides or the bed of the trailer, you MIGHT consider adding a sheet of 1/2" or 5/8" plywood that fits into the bed and attaching what ever tie-downs to it when you need to secure things in there. That way you can add additional tie-downs as you discover you need them and not keep drilling holes in the trailer floor! I think the type you choose; be it a footman loop or bolted in "D-ring" hardware could be countersunk just a tad to avoid scratching the paint if you position them carefully. Possibly installing the hardware up through the plywood and putting nuts/washers on TOP of the type tie-down you choose.
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