Quick Ignition-timing with no-marks |
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Greaser007
Member Joined: 16 Jan. 2018 Location: Anderson, Calif Status: Offline Points: 850 |
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Posted: 22 Feb. 2019 at 4:32am |
I have a engine timing procedure I would like to share:
First off, this was just done on a Ford 302 V-8 engine on my buddies 1972 Ford Bronco. His buddy who rode with him when he delivered his engine to the engine builder, told him "call me when you are ready to Fire-up the engine." The engine has an early front crank pulley with a later model timing cover resulting in the timing marks being approx. 30-degrees off from each other. Here is the quick way to set your engine ignition timing without a light or marks. Personally, I have never used a timing light for setting ignition either as I just set the No. 1 piston on TDC (top-dead-center) and then make sure the distributor rotor is pointing to the proper position on the cap. Next, add primer gas and Fire-away. Here is how the mechanic ( a ford mechanic for 32-years and head-diagnostic techie at the largest local Ford Dealership ) set the spark timing. 1. Remove valve cover (side-cover on L134), and set No, 1 piston at top dead center, or close. a bent piece of wire down the spark plug hole will allow you to 'feel' TDC, maybe. And a thumb on the plug hole will let you 'feel' the compression-stroke. 2. remove spark plug from No. 1 and ground plug to head to watch for spark. 3. Turn ignition ON. 4. with cap on distributor, turn distributor until the plug sparks. 5. tighten the distributor lock-screw 6. give engine some primer-gas and Fire-it-Up ! Note: if the engine kicks-back against the starter, you are too far advanced and back off the distributor somewhat, and try again. I have never used this clever proceedure of turning the distributor until the spark plug sparks, but i am convenced it makes the job easy as Punch. This was the first time my buddy has seen this procedure done. Hope this helps someone who is not real savy with timing. And too, with the flathead L134 i would recommend removing the valve-tappet cover to watch the No. 1 cylinder valves rock to determine a close TDC. I don't think we can poke a stick down through the spark plug hole to dtermine TDC, so maybe a bent piece of mechanics wire a guy could feel TDC. Len Edited by Greaser007 - 22 Feb. 2019 at 4:39am |
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cpt logger
Member Joined: 23 Sep. 2012 Location: Western Colorad Status: Offline Points: 3043 |
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Bolding mine. If you want #1 at TDC on the compression stroke, watch for #4 valves to rock. If #1 valves rock, #1 cylinder is at TDC on the exhaust stroke. I have used this system often with much of the old iron that I work with. It will get you close. Most likely, close enough to fire it up. It will not be fine tuned enough to drive it down the road. Read the note after step #6.
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Greaser007
Member Joined: 16 Jan. 2018 Location: Anderson, Calif Status: Offline Points: 850 |
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cpt Logger,
thank you for the #4 valve-rocking Tip ! i thought this routine was very ingenious, and amazing that at age 67 i am still learning little tricks-of-the-trade, which is most helpful. So, because the No. 1 valves are closed on Compression stroke, then as you mention, on cyl. no 4, the valves will be rocking from Exhaust-stroke to Intake-stroke if my thinking is proper. That is a most helpful suggestion. And, whew, my guess is that the removal of the side-cover is a slow and tedious process, but do-able. One of these days I am going to have to Try this procedure. This won't be exact but will definitely get a guy close for a First-Start. Another thought here that someone may want to explain: Dwell I have never in my life owned a dwell meter. But in thinking back to the early '70's I seem to remember something about the points getting burned in a particular manner if the dwell is not to spec. Could someone knowledgeable elaborate on proper dwell or what to look for as an indicator or a symptom of improper dwell ? cpt Logger ? Another weakness of mine, is I don't understand how to know when a condenser is bad, or a quick easy way to check the condenser. My dad used to somehow "charge" the condenser, and then grounded the lead to the body or something to check the spark it produced after releasing the charge it held, "if" it held a charge. Len |
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