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oldtime View Drop Down
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    Posted: 02 May 2022 at 3:26pm
Strictly for your entertainment pleasure; now here comes Quick Silver !   Why Quick Silver ?
In my minds eye this Jeep goes back to my early beginnings.
I bought my first Willys in 1975; a 1948 CJ-2A. Was non operative and so it just sat.
In the meantime I bought a brand new 1976 CJ-5 with every factory HD option.
Was still much to wild when I came on hard times and lost this fun CJ-5 by 1978.
Not having a vehicle to drive was never going to happen and so my lifelong mechanical adventure had only just begun.
I needed a dependable daily driver so it was time for me to to earnestly rebuild that worn out 2A.
The “rust belt” 1948 was in bad shape requiring a new tub and many parts .
I soon became familiar with all the best Jeep surplus and parts dealers of the day.
Got my very first look at an ACME Jeep catalog.


I immediately fell in love at first glance with the ACME SILVER BULLET !


As a welder fabricator I new the value of trick metals. That brand new stainless Jewels tub was awesome but I just could not afford the $4000 price tag. Instead I got a new body kit and soft top ordered from 4WPW of Gardena CA.


And so I got my first fully rebuilt Jeep completed in record time of under 1 year.

Yet more bad luck follows me.
In my very first winter the fresh rebuilt Willys slipped on a frozen hiway and rolled down an embankment.
No roll bar and I survived without a scratch  but the windshield was destroyed.
You just can’t paint outdoors in the winter months, but I had a plan. 
By now I was making good money as a welder and could afford the stainless windshield frame that ACME Jeep parts was selling.  So no painting required during those cold winter months.

I continued working as a welder/fabricator over the years, and one of my employers was a fabrication shop called Mercury Mfg. There as in every shop I often fabricated my own Jeep parts.
And over the years driving freshly rebuilt Willys jeeps became my norm.
I kept up with some of the stainless Jeep guys over the years and even though the original “Silver Bullet” Jeep has long since ceased to be; I just simply could never put that Jeep out from my mind. So here’s to my memory of the original ACME “SILVER BULLET” without stealing from it’s glory.
Also partly because I have fond memories from working at Mercury; I hereby christen this current CJ-3A Trans-Model Jeep as “Quick Silver” .
Much more to follow as this build is already well into into it’s production.


Edited by oldtime - 06 May 2022 at 10:16am
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote drm101 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 May 2022 at 3:54pm
Looking forward to seeing your progress. 
Dean
'47 CJ2A "Mud Hen"
The less the Power the More the Force
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JohnB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 May 2022 at 4:46pm
This will be fun to follow and educational too!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Scratch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 May 2022 at 5:10pm
Intrigued and interested...
43 GPW 93487 Blk
44 GPW 230283 OD
46 CJ2A 50100 Tan
46 CJ2A 77632 Wht
47 CJ2A 141681 Grn
48 CJ2A 156240 Red/Yel
48 CJ2A "Lefty" 181341 Red
61 CJ5 123120 Tan
03 TJ Inca Gld
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 May 2022 at 8:58pm

For those who are interested: here are links to 2 related topics aimed toward this particular Jeep build.

One titled “Modification Parameters” 
This topic basically goes into the mindset of why and how to modify.

Another titled “CJ-3 trans model universal”.
This topic goes into detail on how I planned to set up my 2 final jeep projects.

In the lull since the 2016 article, I rebuilt yet another jeep that has yet to be a topic in its own right. That rebuild was the 2nd full rebuild of my 1953 3B. Here’s the way that jeep looked back in it previous glory after it’s 1983 rebuild.



And so with preliminaries out of the way I will soon begin to show some progress on the current build.

Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 May 2022 at 10:51am
When I bought this jeep several years ago I paid $750 because it had a perfect 1951 CJ-3A title with no anomalies. 
The Jeep itself was pure junk. It was without an engine, had a severely cracked frame and an incorrect junk body tub. I was lucky to find just enough good parts on it to sell and recoup my investment.

Just like every previous Willys build I have done through the years; this one was stripped down to every single nut, bolt washer and stud.
But unlike every other Willys build this Jeep had arrived in large part through my mail box.
I had been saving my very best Jeep parts for very many years. Some of these parts were purchased back in the late 1970’s when the local Jeep dealer finally sold off all their “old” Willys inventory. I was first in line to buy them out.
And so it went through the years dreaming of the day I would assemble all my best parts. I had used up a lot of OEM NOS over the years. This jeep is no exception.
As with all my builds this one begins as a stripped frame.
In this case I started with a near perfect CJ-3B frame. 
Yet for this Jeep many modifications from the 1951 service standards have been planned.
See the previous link: “CJ-3 trans model universal”.

To put it briefly the frame was modified to accept:
1) Jeep Dauntless 225 V-6 engine.
2) Saginaw “76” power steering system as were used on intermediate vintage CJ's.
3) Dual master cylinder with cast M38 pedal pivot bracket
4) Jeep WR T-18 transmission
5) Dana model 20 transfer case.

After doing those modifications the frame was blasted clean and coated with Southern Polyurethane Industries (SPI) semi gloss primer.
This is easily the best paint I have used to date and does not require a topcoat.
With correct paint prep You can’t hammer this stuff off.


The finished stripped down frame weighed in at 155 pounds.

Prior to this frame work I had fully rebuilt 2 Dauntless engines just a couple of years back.
This Jeep will get my best engine which was sourced from a 1970  Commando.
I am a stickler concerning quality control.
Nearly all of the engine parts are genuine OEM stock. Some parts sourced through Kaiser Jeep Corporation and others through GM. 
Regardless they are the exact same original engine parts from the late 1960’s.
The basic new engine parts include but are not limited to:

1) Crankshaft main and rod bearings
2) .067 oilite crankshaft bushing
3) .020 o.s. pistons and rings.
4) Camshaft bearings
5) Comp cam 252 H (not OEM) 
6) Hydraulic lifters
7) Cloyes (not OEM) timing gear
8) Timing chain and damper
9) Rocker shaft assembly
10) Oil pump
11) All new valves and springs
12) Perfect Circle (Dana Spicer not OEM) gasket and seal set.

All other engine parts were properly refurbished and machined.
Basic engine assembled and painted Hempstead green. Weight on my homemade balance beam comes to 315 pounds.(as shown)

Assembly begins after cleaning just enough garage space to work in.
First I set the frame on the garage floor.
Raise one end of the frame off the ground then roll the engine in position.
Here you see the results with engine setting on a dolly.
Front view:
Right Side view:  
Rear view:




Edited by oldtime - 07 May 2022 at 9:40pm
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Flatfender Ben Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 May 2022 at 12:59am
Very cool!
Can’t wait to see this jeep come together Clap
1946 cj2a desert dog
1946 cj2a bulldog
1948 cj2a blue jeep
1953 cj3b yard dog
1955 willys wagon
1955 willys pickup
1956 willys pickup boomer
1960 fc 170
1968 jeepster commando
1990 Grand wagoneer
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 May 2022 at 12:00pm
Flywheel with bolts installed; weight 47 pounds.

Genuine OEM  NOS Borg Beck diaphragm type cluctch installed; weight 20-1/2  pounds.

Bellhousing installed includes bolts, release fork, release bearing and cover plate; weight 12 pounds.

Install engine insulators, bolts and grounding strap; weight 5 pounds.

Engine on dolly is now attached to frame which is resting on wood blocks.

When doing engine transplants it is most always best to fabricate a rear engine support specific to your engine/ transmission selection.
A custom rear engine support was designed and fabricated for this particular engine and transmission transplant into a CJ-3 frame.

Bolted in weight of 9-1/4 pounds.
The crossmember insulators weigh 2-1/4 pound.

This custom crossmember moves the transmission right exactly 3/4” so that it lines up straight with the dauntless engine position which was also moved right 3/4”.
Note that standard 134 engines set 1-1/2” left of frame centerline but that L/R positioning does not work well with Dauntless engines. My previous engine fitment tests proved that ECJ-5 Dauntless positioning was ideal into these narrow CJ frames.





Edited by oldtime - 06 May 2022 at 12:52pm
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Flatfender Ben Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 May 2022 at 11:27am
Remembered I had this magazine….  silver bullets brother?



Edited by Flatfender Ben - 07 May 2022 at 11:29am
1946 cj2a desert dog
1946 cj2a bulldog
1948 cj2a blue jeep
1953 cj3b yard dog
1955 willys wagon
1955 willys pickup
1956 willys pickup boomer
1960 fc 170
1968 jeepster commando
1990 Grand wagoneer
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 May 2022 at 12:06pm
The stainless jeep bodies of that era approx. 1977 till around 1985 were all manufactured by Jewels.

Many of the parts were stamped


Edited by oldtime - 07 May 2022 at 12:20pm
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Barry S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 May 2022 at 9:15pm
I know you've been planning this one for a long time. I will be fun watching it come together.  Thanks for taking us along for the ride!

-Barry
1947 CJ2A 93664 "Grasshopper"
1947 CJ2A 90729
194? CJ2A 04893/194304
1946 CJ2A 46745
1946 CJ2A 36723
1945 MB   413665
1971 CJ5 8305017 375392 Drive train parts donor
Bantam Trailer T3-C 25487
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 May 2022 at 11:56am
To achieve versatile gearing QS has a wide ratio 6.32 Borg Warner T18 installed. At least for the time being. My original plan was to install a fully synchronized narrow ratio (NR), a modified Ford 4.02 T19. 
A T19 in lieu of T18 because I feel that all NR 4 speeds need be fully synchronized for best service. In WR transmissions the low gear is so slow that your essentially at a full stop anyway.
Why a NR in lieu of WR ?
The NR provides less increase between the selectable ratios.
Having narrow ratios will provide a better torque curve specifically when driving up steep grades at speed with a trailer. After all the D20 will not accept an overdrive unit nor any gear splitter to effectively create NR gear selections.
For 3 years I have been unable to locate a Ford T19 in 4.02 ratio so I’ll just go with a WR T18 transmission which is essentially just a 3 speed on the road.
The obvious advantage of the current WR T18 is the much reduced crawl ratio. Otherwise with an NR T19 the current transfer case gears may not be low enough.
The Jeep (not Ford) T18 as installed has been case modified to bolt direct onto the GM pattern. It also requires use of a turned down bearing retainer. Otherwise it’s all Jeep.

Here you see two short Jeep maindrive gears. They normally have a stick out length of 7-3/8” (overall length 10”)
You can see how I further shortened the one so that it’s stick out length is ideal for GM applications. The Ford 6-1/2” “stick out” is actually too short for a GM application. Jeeps short 7-3/8” is too long and 6-7/8” stickout is ideal.

Rebuilt Jeep to GM WR T18 installed as shown; weight 125 pounds.
Complete shift tower assembly; weight 18 pounds.

Quick Silver is intended as a daily driver and was designed to maximize it’s overall versatility. To lessen hiway noise I chose to install what Jeep refers to as the “silent type” transfer case.
QuickSilver’s case goes far beyond the typical Jeep Dana 20 transfer case.
For starters it was built with 3.16 Tera flex gears in lieu of the inept Jeep 2.03 ratio. Yes I said Tera Flex 3.16 gear set, not 3.15. Do the math and you will understand my claim.
I want twin sticks for added versatility and to look right. So I sourced a rarely seen set of the Dana factory IH twin sticks.
And to make this transfer case fully unique I also installed the high mounted parking brake assembly as was used by Jeep on the early Gladiator trucks and Wagoneers.

Dana 20 as shown; weighs 87-1/2 pounds. Add 2-1/2 pounds for the shift levers.

I do not like way jeep mounted transfer cases for Dauntless powered and Jeeps having a D20. So I designed my crossmember to accept the earlier D18 snubber mounts.
That way I can pull the D20 at anytime and install a D18 if the need arises.
I had to design and fab a special bracket to adapt the D2O to the round snubber mount.
 
I already have a spare D18 plus overdrive already to install should I not like this D20 for any reason. Of course, I also have the spare Warn overdrive too.



Edited by oldtime - 08 May 2022 at 9:06pm
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 May 2022 at 3:18pm
10 leaf front and rear Mathers using my best rebuild technique. They even have powdered graphite mixed into the paint with additional graphite wax between leaves.
These original “u” shackles were in excellent condition to begin and were then electro galvanized.
Front leaves; 44 pounds.
Rear leaves; 54 pounds.
Front and rear spring pivot bolts and “u” shackles, 6 pounds
I’ve been using this design of spring plates for almost 40 years now with good results. They don’t collect mud. 
All plates and axle clips;17 pounds.

Front axle; Dana 30, Powr Lok differential.
Basic axle weight as shown; 93 pounds.

The axles are 3.73  ratio so I can get maximum fuel economy from the Dauntless when operating at 2400 RPM or 60 mph. Plus the 41/11 tooth count makes for a strong ring and pinion.

Rear axle D44 center carrier flanged 30 rolled splined shafts, Powr Lok differential. Weight as shown; 103 pounds.

At this point I added the oem axle bumpers to the frame; 1-3/4 pound.
I then mounted and tested the Rancho HD 5119 shocks for drop and stuff. They only limit drop by maybe 1/2” and will allow the axle to stuff all the way up to the axle bumpers. Shocks with all standard fasteners weigh in at 16-1/2 pounds.

And now the Jeep is setting on oak blocks placed under each spring plate.

Yes, I also have the spare pair of axles required should I ever change the transfer case to D18 with O.D.
Dana 44 offset flanged rear Powr Lok differential with 4.89 gears. Dana 30 front, 4.88 gears and of course the Powr Lok differential.

Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 May 2022 at 1:21pm
At this time I am wanting ability to roll it around in case I need to move it for any reason.
So I decide to complete the remainder of the axle assemblies.

Install 30 count roll splined rear axle shafts and bearings; 33 pounds.
I choose to go with 11” Bendix brakes on all 4 hubs. 11” are notably heavier than the 10” or 9” drums yet significantly lighter than having disk brakes. I basically see no advantage to disks except for wet braking.
Originally I was planning to “vent” the drums for wet braking, but have since decided against doing that.
Rear backing plates, complete brake assemblies, mounting bolts and drums; 48 pounds per pair. 
Later on; if I add the rear parking brake levers the weight increases by 2 pounds.

With rear axle assembly installed I move to the front.
D30 knuckles; 16-3/4 pounds. Installed with new Spicer ball joints; 5-1/2 pounds.
This D30 gets a set of HD chromoly axle shafts with oversized joints; 25-1/4 pounds.
The oversized Cardan joints barely fits in through the knuckle opening.
Front 11” Bendix brake assemblies with genuine NOS Wagner wheel cylinders. Plus NOS rivotted (not bonded) Bendix shoes; 48 pounds.
D30 spindles,  bearings,  spindle nuts and seals; 10 pounds.
D30 hubs; 13-3/4 pounds.
NOS Selctro freewheeling hubs; 6 pounds.


The front tie rod is added at this time so I can steer it. I adjust the toe in using string lines. This should not change but I will recheck the alignment again later when complete Jeep has been assembled.
Tie rod assembly with NOS TRW rod ends; 5-3/4 pounds.

So now it can be rolled about at any time whenever I add the wheels/ tires.
Yet for now the tires and wheels are not installed so that I have unobstructed access to work on things.

The wheels are to be the heavy duty 6” x 16” Kelsey Hayes #873. These wheels were standard on the 1962-1965 Willys pickups. Somewhere near the end of production KH changed their system and the KH #873 wheel number changed to KH #50823.
These rivotted wheel assemblies have a 6 gauge (.162) disk and a 7 gauge (.144) rim. 
These wheels were specifically intended for use with 7.50 x 16” tires.
Quick Silver will get my widest set of tires; the Pirelli Mud Scorpion 235/85 R16 at 6 ply rating. 235/85 R16 is the skinniest available modern tire size at maximum height being 31.7” tall.

KH wheels; 28 pounds each. 
Pirelli tires; 42-1/2 pounds each.
Total for the mounted set of 4; 282 pounds.
A set of 20 lug nuts will only add 1-1/4 pounds. 
I will install the matching spare tire later on at some point.



Edited by oldtime - 28 May 2022 at 1:42pm
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote otto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 May 2022 at 11:04pm
I'm liking that tire, how wide is it overall?
47 CJ2A w/fuel injected boat engine
48 CJ2A
64 Ford Econoline Travelwagon
If you can't get there in a Jeep, get a motorcycle!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 May 2022 at 11:43pm
Numbers may not mean a lot without some direct comparison.

The stated cross section for the Scorpion is 9.3 but my tires inflated are a solid 9.5” at their widest point.
The actual measured tread width is 6-7/8”.
If you look close you can see they are a two stage lug design and they are only slightly wider than most 7.50 x 16” tires at the outermost tread edges. 
Recall that steering reduction is effected by a combination tire diameter and tread width.
Again they are 31-1/4” tall when fully inflated and that is very near my preferred maximum tire height.

Most 7.50 tires are about 6-3/4” tread and about 31 or 31-1/4” tall. About 1/2” less cross section than 235/85R16’s.

FWIW I don’t like tires to be under 30” OAH.
So the STA 6.50 x 16 at 30” is my preferred minimum tire. 
Those have a tread measuring 6-1/4” wide. 
These tires and the taller NDT’s are near optimum for use with Ross steering. These smaller tires are also advantageous with model 25 front axles due to allowable steering angles and axle strength.

Obviously I have yet to run these Scorpions but as you can see they have a very open tread design. So they should do quite well in the mud.



Edited by oldtime - 31 May 2022 at 12:02am
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 June 2022 at 3:34pm
It’s time to add the Jeep CJ split bore master cylinder as was federal safety mandated in 1967.
Fitment details for this and all my flatfender modifications are in the old CJ3B forum Tapatalk link.

Master cylinder with mounting bracket; 7 pounds.
Pedal pivot shaft, levers, pedal and draft pads; 11-1/4 pounds.

Continuing onward I decided to go with stainless brake tubing. I knew double flaring stainless tube could be a challenge. I suspected that the Titan tool might be up to the task; at least for a limited number of flares if done carefully.
And I was right. I rolled out the expensive stainless brake tube coil and flattened it by hand. Next I cut to length then carefully prepared and lubed the tube ends prior to double flare them. I then followed the Titan instructions exactly but added .045 thickness to the depth gauge in order to slightly reduce the double flare size when forming.
The flares turned out great. Then all brake lines were carefully formed to the desired shape by hand without tools except that round mandrels were used for shaping of various radius as needed.

Here are the split bore junction blocks.
It’s mounted to an unused threaded tap in the factory frame.

Stainless tubes, all hoses and junction blocks;2 pounds.
The 1970-1971 factory cable controlled clutch system is installed; weight 2-1/2 pounds.

I decided not to use the factory cable mounting brackets. My brackets are smaller and a bit less obtrusive.
I fabricated a custom cable bracket that mounts direct to the threaded pivot hole on the T18 to D20 rear adapter plate.

Also fabricated a bracket to hold the cable to the outer frame rail via using a couple of existing frame holes.


Edited by oldtime - 12 June 2022 at 3:40pm
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BD1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 June 2022 at 7:17pm
Where did you find the stop light switch with female terminals on the switch?  I had to replace mine last weekend to pass inspection and the only female terminal switch I could find was Omix/Ada, so I wound up changing the wire ends to female so I could use the Echlin switch available through NAPA.
BD
'47 CJ2a, Shiny on top!
'55 CJ5 project
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