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Qwaaazy8 CJ2A Build Thread

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Rick G View Drop Down

Joined: 17 May 2015
Location: Amarillo, TX
Status: Offline
Points: 1220
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rick G Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 June 2020 at 6:54pm
Paul,  I thought with Brennans conversion, the rotor just slides over the hub and isn’t pressed onto it?
1947 CJ2a #119929    "Gus"
1951 CJ3a #451-GB1-24268   “Some Assembly Required”

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Dozer View Drop Down

Joined: 22 June 2020
Location: KCMO
Status: Offline
Points: 3
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dozer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 June 2020 at 10:54am
Rick G,Our understanding is that the rotor should slide on as well, we found that the knurled part of even the stock studs protruded past the face of the hub, this requires you to drill out the rotor holes to accept the knurling, we decided we wanted to use the knurling of the stud to keep the rotor concentric to the hub, especially since the new studs have an even longer knurled portion and the rotors do not center on the hub boss. This was a decision we made to try and keep everything as concentric as possible. 
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pts211 View Drop Down

Joined: 18 Sep. 2015
Location: Missouri
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pts211 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 July 2020 at 2:40pm
Wheel Restoration

Early last week I restored the 16" wheels - sandblasted and painted - before having the new Goodrich KM3's mounted and balanced on them.

After going through nearly 200lbs of blast media I was ready to paint. I just used various Rustoleum spray paints - primer, paint, clear coat. I enclosed part of my back patio to knock the wind down for a better painting environment.

After many coats I was pleased with how things cleaned up. 

With the wheels ready I needed to get the tires mounted and balanced. After calling around to several shops I was told they are swamped and couldn't do it until the middle of next week. I had hopes of making some big progress over the holiday weekend that depended on the wheels. I reached out to my mechanic neighbor and he ran up to work late one evening to mount them. They look great on the ground, couldn't wait to see them on the Jeep!

Extended Weekend, Extended Jeep Time

Andrew, Dustin, and I were all off work on Friday and we had plans to use the long weekend as much as we could. To beat the heat, and since between the three of us we had commitments for the holiday in the afternoons, I opened the garage about 6:30am Friday and Saturday morning. 

Armed with a mobile shop for the weekend, things went pretty smoothly on Friday. While Dustin and Andrew worked on getting the front brakes together I worked on replacing the tie-rod ends and doing a rebuild of the drag link. 

Originally we torqued the new tie-rods to 60ft/lbs based on a spec we found online. I'm not sure where that number comes from, but doing that resulted in zero steering movement. We decided to follow some other advice and tighten it down to just before impacting the steering performance and rely on the castle nut to hold things in place.

Jeep Education

I have really wanted to catch up with Brian (Bridog) and Dylan, I also wanted Andrew and Dustin to meet them and see some of the fabrication that Brian has done on his families Jeeps.

We cleaned up around lunch and drove an hour North to visit Brian and Dylan. I didn't capture any pictures, but we got to see the cool work that Dylan is doing for his Jeep, Elmo, as well as some of what Brian has set up on Blueberry. 

(Thanks for letting us come up and visit Bridog!)

After a nice visit we headed back to my house to wrap up a few odds and ends to get to a decent stopping point before calling it a day. We also test mounted two of the wheels. The new, longer, wheel studs seemed to be a great fit. They had a perfect amount of knurling to allow the rotor to be pressed on and secured with a great stud length for the lug nuts. We discussed the status of the back and decided the stock stud length would suffice, even though it doesn't have full engagement it is well past the minimum engagement required to hold torque based on industry standards.

Give me some SPACE!

Saturday morning Andrew and I started to survey what steering looked like with the larger wheels. With the stock steering stop we were rubbing the springs at full lock. One of the project requirements is that the Jeep's max steering angle be preserved, it's already bad enough without bringing it in. The solution was clear, we needed some wheel spacers.

Using washers we spaced the wheel out a 1/2" and were very close to being free from rubbing. I did some googling and wasn't finding any great options, 1" to 1.25" seemed to be what was available - but I really didn't want to wait until the middle of next week for that, nor did we need that much space. 

Andrew and I were talking it over and he asks "why don't we just make them?"... I fired up Fusion and began to sketch it out. 

Pretty soon we had a model for 3/4" spacers that we believe should hold up. We would use the lug nuts to hold it on the studs of the wheel hub. I didn't like the idea of relying on pressed studs in aluminum to hold the wheel on - so we designed these to use grade 8 bolts threaded into the spacer to act as studs to hold the wheel on.

With the model in hand we headed to the robotics shop to see what material we had around and make these a reality.

Saturday's are for... Machining?

We were able to find a few scrap pieces of 3/4" material that would work for the spacers. Andrew cut them down, squared them up, and prepped the material into the 7" squares while I got to work on CAM'ing the parts to run on the CNC. (CAM - Computer Aided Manufacturing - often used as a verb to mean program the CNC machine). 

With the material ready I faced each side (made it flat and sized it to be exactly 0.75" +/- 0.005") and then we bolted it down to our fixture plate to start doing the real work.

Sometimes, mistakes happen. I thought I had checked all of my travel moves to avoid the nuts we were using to hold things down. It turns out my software wasn't showing me ALL of them like I remembered. So I missed one... as you might expect the speeds used to cut a soft metal like aluminum are much different than what is used for steel. Suffice to say, I destroyed that 1/2" end-mill. 

The tragic thing here is the last time we were in the shop with students we broke a 1/2" end-mill. So here I went breaking a brand new one. Dang. I made some adjustments to the travel moves on my programs and we carried on.

After another few operations we had our first spacer. The second one quickly followed.

At this point I'm hoping to just run front spacers. By our estimates if I run them on the back there is a large chance of hitting the outer sheet metal of the wheel well - want to avoid that.

The machining took longer than expected, and since I had a party to in the afternoon we did some finishing hand work on the spacers, cleaned up, got the bolts we needed and called it a day. 

Reworking rework

Andrew and Dustin came around 11am on Sunday, shortly before they arrived I started to mount the front wheels with our new spacers. To my dismay I discovered that our new wheel studs - the nice longer ones - weren't going to work with our spacers. The lug nut was just shy of being able to tighten the spacer to the wheel hub...

We had to pull the front hubs off, again, and switch back to the stock wheel studs. At this point I've lost track of how many times Andrew has had the pleasure of switching wheel studs. 

On the bright side, the stock wheel studs are the perfect length. We discovered we didn't have to cut the studs down despite having only 3/4" spacers.

We reinstalled the hubs, put the tires on, and did a tape measure alignment with the new tie-rods.

I don't have a picture but the 3/4" spacer seems to be nearly perfect in this case. No rubbing. There is a chance it could graze ever so slightly in certain situations, but I'm not worried about those.

We bled the brakes, fixed a few flares that were leaking, and now have a nice firm brake pedal. The only bummer is that we couldn't take the Jeep for a spin to test out the changes!

Starting on the body

With the mechanical changes behind us for now we started figuring out how we can modify the body to enable Andrew and his 6'7" frame to drive the Jeep.

We set the tub back on the frame and started measuring, drawing, and discussing what we can do.

One big requirement is that we minimize any losses to suspension travel as much as possible. We started by doing a rough mark of how far we expect the tire to tuck into the wheel well if we are on the bump stop.

Looking at the expected wheel tuck we realize in the stock suspension configuration it's going to be a tricky thing to pull off. Our conversation slowly leaned towards: "Let's make the seating work, and we'll tackle the consequences as we find them." - of course we will do what we can as we go to limit issues, but we'll deal with them as we find them. This goes against my usual "let's have a full gameplan" mindset - but I think in this case it's the most efficient way to go.

We knew roughly how far back the seat needs to go, so a few more marks and Andrew began carving things out.

Soon enough we were able to start positioning the seat in and making adjustments forward and back as well as elevation adjustments. 

Some of what we learned:
  • bring the front of the seat up to better support the thighs
  • allow the seat to slide as far back as possible
  • a smaller steering wheel is necessary - 13" to 15" is ideal
  • modifying the shift levers to bend slightly towards the passenger will enable better knee positioning while driving

(For those wondering, the jack is to support the floorboard that is nearly all but gone under the fuel tank)

With this new information we were at a good stopping point. Our next steps are to fabricate some seat frames with adjustable sliding seats - the plan is to modify the factory seats to mount to a sliding base. Once we have the seating figured out on the driver side we can replicate it on the passenger side and then move on to replacing the floor and hat channels.

Edited by pts211 - 06 July 2020 at 2:44pm
Paul S - son of Ricco
1947 CJ2A

1948 CJ2A a.k.a. "Lumpy" (Dad's Jeep)
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Flatfender Ben View Drop Down

Joined: 13 July 2014
Location: Nyssa OR
Status: Offline
Points: 1956
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Flatfender Ben Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 July 2020 at 11:15pm
Awesome progress!
I really like those tires. 
Thanks for sharing. 
1946 cj2a desert dog
1946 cj2a bulldog
1948 cj2a blue jeep
1953 cj3b yard dog
1955 willys wagon
1955 willys pickup
1956 willys pickup boomer
1960 fc 170
1968 jeepster commando
1990 Grand wagoneer
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