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NCtoy View Drop Down
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Joined: 28 Aug. 2005
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    Posted: 13 Jan. 2018 at 9:46am
Anybody tried their own radiator repair? Mine started weeping a little antifreeze in two spots along the front of the radiator where the tank crimps at the bottom. I was think of taking it out and trying to heat the radiator and re solder the seam in those spots. Any chance that would seal the leak or will the tank have to be removed and resealed? 

Thanks to cheap Chinese radiators nobody repairs their radiator anymore and my local radiator repair shop has closed. 
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Joe DeYoung View Drop Down
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Points: 2349 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joe DeYoung Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jan. 2018 at 10:20am
I think someone on the page did an in-depth post of radiator disassembly, repair, and reassembly. Do an advanced search for it and I'm pretty sure you'll find it. It's an interesting and informative read. In your case, it sounds like you could just solder it shut without disassembly but if not, the post will help guide you.
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willysreunion View Drop Down
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Points: 60 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote willysreunion Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jan. 2018 at 10:32am
Check this out:http://www.1945gpw.com/article/92/G503-WWII-Jeep-Radiator-Rebuild-Restore
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Joe DeYoung View Drop Down
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Points: 2349 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joe DeYoung Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jan. 2018 at 10:55am
That's the article that I was thinking about... Thanks Art.
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Points: 10903 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rocnroll Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jan. 2018 at 11:40am
That's a good article !

One precaution I'd like to mention..(you can figure how I know)

NCtoy, be careful, if you plan to proceed with a repair, to take your time and don't get everything TOO hot. At that point you will just start chasing solder and have more leaks than you started with.
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NCtoy View Drop Down
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Points: 311 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NCtoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jan. 2018 at 9:01pm
That was a good article. Wish it had a little more detail but at least I know it's possible. 

Roc- my biggest concern is whether I can get the solder melted and into the seam without melting the rest of it and having a mess. I figure if I do it with the radiator upright so the joint is level then hopefully whatever extra I melt won't try and run somewhere else. 
I'll plan on giving it a try in a couple weeks. 
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Lew Ladwig View Drop Down
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Points: 1373 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lew Ladwig Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jan. 2018 at 9:09pm
Hi guys, I wrote the radiator repair guide.  If you have questions let me know.
Lew 
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NCtoy View Drop Down
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what kind of solder did you use?
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Lew Ladwig View Drop Down
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Points: 1373 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lew Ladwig Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jan. 2018 at 10:07pm
I used lead based plumbing solder.  When I ran out I used the new stuff.  I prefer the solid solder.  I don't like the rosin core much.  Key is Super bright shiny metal!   Once it gets heated and turns dull, shine it back up before trying to solder.  Don't be lazy.  Always bright metal!   Good trick is body work tinning paste.  Eastwood sells it for lead body work.  Spread over bright metal and heat until it flows.  Now you can solder without worry of dull metal.
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Rick G View Drop Down
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Points: 699 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rick G Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jan. 2018 at 11:00pm
Lew, that’s the best home DIY’er clean, rod, and repair as I’ve ever seen.  Where did you learn that?  I grew up in the radiator business and my family had 5 shops in Texas and New Mexico, so I’ve done this procedure a thousand times.  The only thing I’d recommend is to silver solder or preferably sil-phos tank cracks and baffles.  The tanks take a lot of expansion and contraction stresses that cause solder repairs to fail quicker than sil-phos repairs.  Also, take extreme care to keep heat off the tubes near the header.  You can quickly make more leaks at the tube/header connection than you can fix.

NCtoy, we used 60/40 solid solder, but we had really good tinning compound (zinc chloride powder that we made into a paste) and bead blasted the tanks and other parts.  Good luck!

Rick
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Lew Ladwig View Drop Down
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Points: 1373 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lew Ladwig Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan. 2018 at 9:39am
Thanks Rick,
Good to know I was doing it close to right!  I knew how to solder copper plumbing as my dad taught me that when we built his house when I was in highschool.  I figured it was something like that.  I only used materials I had in my shop so knowing about your zinc chloride is cool.  I think I do have some as I have a zinc plating set up I made myself.  Other than that, I just followed a logical path.  No experience with my first one.  Just the school of hard knocks!
Lew
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