REALLY modified flat fender...

Anyways, I just got done rebuilding my flat fender over the last year. I probably shouldn't say done. They are never done! It is driving around in the test, tune, change it, phase at least....

I really like this picture because it really show how far from stock I modified it but how close to the stock design it really is...

1942 Willys MB ( originally a USMC version, fording kit, and radio version )

New hand built frame out of 2x4 box tubing 

225 Buick odd fire V6, HEI, autolite 2bbl carb

SM420 transmission 

D18 transfer case

D30 open knuckle front axle, 4.30 gears

D44 rear axle, flanged axle full float conversion

4 wheel disc brakes

35" BFG Krawlers on beadlock wheels 

86" wheelbase, +3 front +3 rear ( actually 85.X" with new springs )

1" superlift rear springs at all 4 corners

10" travel shocks

17" belly clearance with tucked powertrain

low back bucket seats sunken to the floor

custom 19 gallon aluminum fuel tank behind the seats

2.75" raised front fenders

2.75" raised rear wheel tubs

36" dia rear wheel opening

1.5", .120 wall custom cage

Vintage 1972 Belleview winch with synthetic line in custom sunken mount

Big piston J20 power steering box

Thick wall tie-rod and drag-link

4-fuse super simple rewire with pushbutton start

Autometer gauges ( tach, oil, temp, vacuum, volts )

XJ hanging pedals, manual brake conversion, hydro clutch

70 years of patina....

Modified......but still with roots.....

The belly clearance is pretty good in my book. With the shorter wheelbase you really don't need that much. Also, the belly is pretty much flat without a lot of stuff hanging down in odd places to get stuck. 

Another way to think about it. The entire vehicle is only about 68" tall and it has 17" of belly clearance :) Go measure a stock flat fender. 

I kept the entire vehicle as low as possible to help with stability. It is wider than it is tall. 68" tall and 72" wide. It is also very low and a few hundred pounds heavy on the front axle to make it climb better. Tall short wheelbase jeeps just don't like to climb....

This is a pretty funny picture....

Here is my jeep next to your more conventional type build. The big jeep is spring over with 35s. Mine is 15.5" lower overall and only approx 2" less belly clearance. 

No plans for bigger springs at all. I did end up adding 1" of rear shackle length to level the jeep a touch and prevent the spring from binding on the rear bumper. 

No, the vehicle was pretty stripped down and had gone through at least one major rebuild in its life. All the indicators are still there, including that blasted undercoating! 

I did keep the original USMC tow hooks :) 

4.5" up-travel front and rear (10" travel shocks ). I moved things around a lot so the axle could go all the way to the frame both front and rear. The higher engine position, high steering box position, exhaust routing over the rear axle, 2pc front driveline to avoid the starter , radiator height. A lot of little modifications....A LOT!  

The engine, transmission, and transfer case have been raised up in the chassis. The belly isn't completely flush to the bottom of the frame, but it's close ( approx 1-1.25" drop from the bottom of the frame. I built a new transmission tunnel to cover up everything. The engine is also forward slightly to avoid the firewall and improve the weight balance slightly. 

Rocker panel guards are on the to do list for sure! I have a neat idea that I want to try that I haven't really seen done yet. This tub isn't that straight though...its 70 years old.

As far as the belly clearance. How much do you really need on a short wheelbase? A stock flat fender has about 12" maybe less? For me, every inch in height takes away from performance on steep climbs. The belly is very 'flat' with everything tucked up out of the way as much as possible.

There will be a flat aluminum skidplate from the transmission crossmember to the crossmember under the engine mounts. If you do hit on the belly, everything is nice and smooth, you generally either slide over or can slide back off. 

The frame rail has about 18-18.5" of clearance and is smooth and flat from spring hanger to spring hanger. There is no clutch linkage or transmission crossmember mounts hanging down. All that stuff went away with the new frame. 

I imagine in some terrain more belly clearance could be advantageous. For me, I would rather put up with a touch of rubbing every now and again with the vehicle being that much more stable, not only side to side, but also front to back. Personally I think this is the key to making the short wheelbase work well off road. 

This is the type of terrain I am fighting.....

This was on the Gold Bar Rim trail before the last buildup. Climbs like this in a flat fender are just a total pain in the rear! It was JUST steep enough ( even in a more stock vehicle ) that the front tires where starting to un-weight, engine wouldn't run right, etc. The climb was longer than the wheelbase also, a common thing in my area with a flat fender. A longer wheelbase vehicle will just walk right up as long as the front and rear overhang are not an issue. I can't wait to get all the loose ends tied up and try the same thing again. 

A really bad picture during the build. Yes, there is an engine transmission and transfer case in the vehicle at that point. 

Here is the new tunnel I made to cover everything up....

I think its really hard for people to grasp how small this thing is without seeing it in person. For the amount of clearance it does have with 35" tires, 4.5" uptravel, 17" of belly clearance, and an overall height of only about 68". The top of the tub is only 43" tall at ride height. It's one compact unit! Think big kid go cart....

That is a stock 2WD 1/2 ton chevy truck.