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REALLY modified flat fender... |
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Metcalf 
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Sponsor Member Joined: 21 May 2009 Location: Durango, Co Status: Offline Points: 736 |
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 Posted: 03 Aug. 2012 at 10:12pm |
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Thanks.
Currently I have an open front and 30-spline Powr-lok rear. I used what I had to get it rolling for EJS and Moab this spring. I have a spartan locker sitting on the bench that I am going to stuff in the front axle for this fall. I need to swap some 5.38s in the diffs also, it never ends! The 4.30 gears where great with the 32s, but with the 35s they are just too tall. Eventually the rear axle is going to get a selectable locker, most likely an ox-locker at this point. Depending on how the front automatic locker and rear selectable locker pans out, I will probably replace the Spartan with a full case Detriot. Yes, I know that running an auto locker in the front and selectable locker in the rear is an odd way to go :) My current big project is replacing my SM420/D18 homemade adapter pain in the rear leaky custom combo with a more conventional T18 and D18 combo with 3.15 gears in the D18. As far as the fenders go.... I basically slid the front fenders up the portion where they bolt to the cowl/firewall. The fender is now at the corner in the grill shell instead of below it. Moving the fenders up along the angled plane of the rear mounting surface also moves the fenders 1.38" forward. The grill was moved forward and the hood lengthened slightly. I had to reshape the front area of the fender around the headlight bucket also. The hood was then trimmed to fit the new fender location and some 3/16" rod welded onto the edge to finish it up.   There is about 900 picture from the build... |
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42 MB that had a one night stand with a much younger 69 CJ5 and a 50s GM truck.
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kernel
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Joined: 15 Aug. 2007 Location: Cupertino, CA Status: Offline Points: 148 |
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Posted: 03 Aug. 2012 at 10:59pm |
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yes this was a very kewl build to watch.
 but i don't think u'd have much fun going through the water crossings on fordyce. great job. mark
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Frankenstein was built better.
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Metcalf
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Sponsor Member Joined: 21 May 2009 Location: Durango, Co Status: Offline Points: 736 |
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Posted: 03 Aug. 2012 at 11:06pm |
Dang it, I knew I should have gotten waterproof seats! I can always pull the hood off and rotate the intake around to make a snorkel.... Fordyce is on my list. I was looking at some picture of winch hill 1 going....MMMMmmmm. I wonder how that is going to be with an 85" wheelbase? I think I will be going on the Rubicon next fall. I just need to retire and jeep full time. I don't need money or health insurance or retirement right? |
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42 MB that had a one night stand with a much younger 69 CJ5 and a 50s GM truck.
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kernel
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Joined: 15 Aug. 2007 Location: Cupertino, CA Status: Offline Points: 148 |
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Posted: 03 Aug. 2012 at 11:57pm |
funay that's the 1st thing i thought about. i think it would work great on the left side or just weave thru. i hate the 1st little step on the trail and the off camber section before u get to the 1st water crossing in my too tall xj. i don't think u'd have much of a problem except for the water.
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Frankenstein was built better.
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2many
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Joined: 15 Apr. 2008 Location: Utah Status: Offline Points: 118 |
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Posted: 04 Aug. 2012 at 12:45am |
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Cool fender trick - me likey. Been scratching my head if it would just be easier to raise the fender straight up rather than follow the rear angle. Definitely on the list though. Try the front locker idea but I'd really suggest selectable up front. Especially on anything remotely sticky and with those Krawlers you're asking for a fight - and maybe a broken joint or shaft or two (especially with a 30)! I'm sure you've researched it though! I've got Scout 44's with 5.38's, spool in back with full floater, OX in front, all chromoly shafts. Super happy with the combo - LOVE the spool, very predictable and the OX is simple and very well built. Once you get the cable dialed in and adjusted, all is well.
Just duct your air intake under the cowl. Protects it from dust and water better and a snorkle can be easily plugged on. Again, very cool build!
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Too many 2A's - ask my wife
'45 CJ2A (10231) in progress '57 FC-150 '74 CJ 6 |
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berettajeep
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Posted: 04 Aug. 2012 at 12:57am |
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Sweet!
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Metcalf
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Sponsor Member Joined: 21 May 2009 Location: Durango, Co Status: Offline Points: 736 |
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Posted: 04 Aug. 2012 at 3:04am |
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You could shorten the fenders 1.38" front to back on the top section. Then you could leave the grill and hood in the stock location.
The D30 is a compromise. With a smart right foot and a few tricks it should be ok with a vehicle that is only 2900ish pounds. The 5.38s are probably going to get sent out for heat treat and cryo, alloy axles are going in with 297 sized u-joints, full circle clips, maybe stronger joints, etc. Honestly with a smart driver I have seen D30 axles hold up to a LOT of use......37" sticky's and a v8...no. |
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42 MB that had a one night stand with a much younger 69 CJ5 and a 50s GM truck.
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MIZZOU29
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Joined: 23 July 2011 Location: Spokane Mo. Status: Offline Points: 85 |
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Posted: 14 Aug. 2012 at 8:46pm |
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followed your build over on Pirate I believe. Awesome rig. |
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Tact is for those without the intelligence for sarcasm.
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Metcalf
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Sponsor Member Joined: 21 May 2009 Location: Durango, Co Status: Offline Points: 736 |
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Posted: 15 Aug. 2012 at 6:18pm |
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Thank you. Still lots more to come. I don't think it will ever be finished but hopefully the broad strokes and layout are done :)
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42 MB that had a one night stand with a much younger 69 CJ5 and a 50s GM truck.
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Bob W
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Posted: 16 Aug. 2012 at 2:47pm |
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Metcalf,
Can you tell us more about your "D44 rear axle, flanged axle full float conversion"? Thanks!
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Metcalf
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Posted: 16 Aug. 2012 at 6:26pm |
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Sure....
I started with an early cj5 style D44 housing that had two piece axles. The D30 open knuckle front axle was about 3" wider than the factory rear axle. I have always liked the idea of having a full float rear axle where the spindles, brakes, bearing hubs, etc where the same as the front to keep spare parts to a minimum. When I started looking into buying a full float rear kit I noticed that all of the kits ( or homemade versions ) used a front spindle that had the step on the back turned down to fit into the rear bearing pocket. I wanted to be able to carry one spare spindle and have it be able to be used at all 4 corners. It would also be nice if an off the shelf spindle would fit any of the 4 corners. I hit a slight snag when I started looking at long term durability of floater conversions when a locking hub was used. Honestly, it looked like a LOT of people had issues with this on vehicle with larger tires and locking differentials. The old warn kits offered an internal style bearing hub, but I wanted all 4 corners to match.....and you can't get the warn stuff anymore. In the end I decided to build an aluminum spacer that fits between the axle flange and spindle. This solves a few different problems. One, it allows me to slightly widen the rear axle to match the D30 front axle. Two, by using a step and bore change in the adapter the adapter fits in the stock D44 bearing pocket AND allow a un-turned off the shelf spindle to fit in the other side. For axles I decided to eliminate the hubs and used a flanged full floating axle similar to the original military full floater. This is also what you commonly see on just about every 3/4ton+ pickup on the road. The axle bolts directly to the bearing hub. I had dutchman make these for me. Since they eliminate the cost for the locking hub it really brings down the cost of the conversion overall. I hit a snag when I decided I wanted to use 30-spline flanged floating axles. The axle basically has to be able to fit through the spindle from the outside. I thought about boring some spindles out this far but decided against it. I ended up finding spindles from Yukon that where made for a 30 spline outer axle. Not the cheapest option, but it was the least amount of work and probably the strongest option. This did violate my idea about having the same spindles on all 4 corners. I will probably change the front eventually, but so far I have not. Running basically the same spindle bolt pattern all around so I was able to use the same brake system at all 4 corners.... Some pics...   I hope that is enough info. If you need anymore information let me know. |
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42 MB that had a one night stand with a much younger 69 CJ5 and a 50s GM truck.
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Bob W
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Posted: 16 Aug. 2012 at 6:42pm |
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Nice!!!!!! Very cool idea, thanks for explaining it.
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Metcalf
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Posted: 17 Aug. 2012 at 4:29am |
Thank you. No problem. I enjoy sharing my ideas....
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42 MB that had a one night stand with a much younger 69 CJ5 and a 50s GM truck.
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jpet
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Sponsor Member x 5 Joined: 30 Apr. 2008 Location: Ramsey, IL Status: Offline Points: 11174 |
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Posted: 29 Apr. 2013 at 2:45am |
http://s125.photobucket.com/user/Metcalfphoto/media/Rango/P1010219.jpg.html?sort=3&o=979 Is this part of it? Did you weld the internal splines for the tranny yoke to the transfercase gear in the dana 18? |
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CJ2A #29110 "General Willys"
MB #204827 "BAM BAM" "We do what we can, and we try what we can't" |
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Metcalf
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Sponsor Member Joined: 21 May 2009 Location: Durango, Co Status: Offline Points: 736 |
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Posted: 29 Apr. 2013 at 2:51am |
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Yup, the a Dana 18 input gear was bored out and press fit over a turned down SM420 output yoke. Then they were welded together. I played with the contraption a bit over the years but the original work wasn't mine. I tried and tried to get the adapter to seal up but it always leaked...A LOT! I never broke anything but have since replaced the unit.
I built a T18 and dana 20 case based D18 to replace the old units. I ended up building another new tunnel to cover it all up. It has been working great for a month or two now. |
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42 MB that had a one night stand with a much younger 69 CJ5 and a 50s GM truck.
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jpet
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Posted: 29 Apr. 2013 at 3:05am |
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Interesting. I'm thinking I might try the same thing since I already have the components. How thick was the adapter plate? Looks like maybe 3/4"?
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CJ2A #29110 "General Willys"
MB #204827 "BAM BAM" "We do what we can, and we try what we can't" |
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Metcalf
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Sponsor Member Joined: 21 May 2009 Location: Durango, Co Status: Offline Points: 736 |
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Posted: 29 Apr. 2013 at 3:36am |
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My adapter plate was 1/2" thick.
It really needs to have an alignment ring also...and a bore for a seal. With the adapter that short the fill port on the case needs to be shaved off to make room for the front output. There will only be enough room for a SMALL front output with the adapter so short. I only had enough room for an 1100 series u-joint at the front output. The mini-front yoke also had to have a modified front input shaft for a bolt style retainer. |
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42 MB that had a one night stand with a much younger 69 CJ5 and a 50s GM truck.
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Metcalf
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Sponsor Member Joined: 21 May 2009 Location: Durango, Co Status: Offline Points: 736 |
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Posted: 29 Apr. 2013 at 10:13pm |
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This thread need more pictures of modified stuff :)
 Here is the new tunnel I built to cover up the new T18/D18 combo I installed. The top is removable and large enough to get the top cover off the transmission. There is a fill port for the D18 through a redesigned vent/fill fitting on the front output housing. There is also a panel on the passenger side that allows access to the twin stick shifter pin and front driveshaft.  Here you can see why the tunnel is so large. The engine, transmission, and transfer case have been significantly moved up in the chassis to provide much more belly clearance with my low overall height.  Here is the new T18 and D18 up inside the chassis. Both where totally rebuilt. The Dana 18 is using a D20 case to allow the use of a factory T18 to D20 adapter. The D18 has the twin stick mod, a vent mod, a short rear yoke conversion, double lip seals on everything, and a few other things I am forgetting.   A few shots from the shakedown during Easter Jeep 2013. |
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42 MB that had a one night stand with a much younger 69 CJ5 and a 50s GM truck.
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kernel wrote: