|
|
|
REAR AXLE HUB REMOVAL |
Post Reply 
|
Page 12> |
| Author | |
jeepsterjim 
Member 
Joined: 13 July 2011 Location: lincoln, ca Status: Offline Points: 1283 |
 Post Options
 Thanks(0)
 Quote Reply
 Topic: REAR AXLE HUB REMOVALPosted: 20 Sep. 2019 at 2:02am |
|
Have a D-44 two piece off set diff
Trying to remove hub and axle shaft Problem: hub will not budge.....Used the correct 3 prong puller Removed the backing plate to diff flange bolts and removed brake line. Tried removing axle/ flange assembly as one piece--- won't budge....used propper slide hammer set up. Did not apply heat to hub/axle Any cleaver ideas?
Edited by jeepsterjim - 20 Sep. 2019 at 2:33am |
|
|
Jim
CJ-2A - 81299 |
|
 |
|
|
NCtoy
Member
Joined: 28 Aug. 2005 Location: NC Status: Offline Points: 507 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 20 Sep. 2019 at 2:58am |
|
Im no expert hub puller, but this method has worked for me in the past, on the most stubborn hubs I’ve dealt with. |
|
|
|
|
Lee MN
Member
Joined: 13 Aug. 2008 Location: Harris, MN Status: Offline Points: 4950 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 20 Sep. 2019 at 3:04am |
|
Never had one I couldn’t get apart and never used heat (so Farr in life
 ) tighten the puller as tight as you can possibly get it, then whack the end of the puller screw with a maul and do not be bashful, also keep away from the end cause when it lets go it will fly several feet, you may need to repeat this a few times.Lee 
|
|
|
LEE
44 GPW-The Perfected Willys 49 2A “If you wait, you only get older” 67 M715 American Made Rolling History |
|
|
|
|
Ol' Unreliable
Member
Joined: 25 Sep. 2016 Location: CO Springs CO Status: Offline Points: 4226 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 20 Sep. 2019 at 3:32am |
|
Do you have the puller with the dogbone tightener thing? Tightening that with your BFH and whacking the end of the puller screw will loosen things up quickly. Leave the nut on the end of the axle shaft so the hub doesn't take a flying leap.
|
|
|
There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
|
|
|
|
|
jeepsterjim
Member
Joined: 13 July 2011 Location: lincoln, ca Status: Offline Points: 1283 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 20 Sep. 2019 at 4:24am |
|
My hub puller has the Handle and the Hex head for a impact wrench. I used my commercial 1/2 impact and used a hard mallet on the hub to no avale.
Went back out, after posting this topic, and noticed that the hub flange is bent do to so much pressure from the puller.....that's a lot of pressure! Axle/hub does not appear to be rusty nor does the key way appear cocked. Odd thing is, after removing the backing plate to diff housing flange bolts, and trying to remove the axle/hub as one is not working. |
|
|
Jim
CJ-2A - 81299 |
|
|
|
|
elawson
Member
Joined: 03 Apr. 2011 Location: Arizona, USA Status: Offline Points: 31 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 20 Sep. 2019 at 11:56pm |
|
I've never had a problem getting the hub off. I did buy two extra puller arms so that I can put an arm on each of the wheel studs and avoid kinking the hub. Adding to Lee's and Ol Unreliable's idea of " hit it with a hammer". Use a 5 pound, or bigger, steel faced hammer...no leather, plastic, rawhide, deadblow or wooden devices...steel. And like Lee said, don't be bashful. Also, you might loosen the puller and move one arm to another stud before going at it again. |
|
|
|
|
jeepsterjim
Member
Joined: 13 July 2011 Location: lincoln, ca Status: Offline Points: 1283 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 21 Sep. 2019 at 1:59am |
|
Sucess!!!!
Was able to remove both hubs today, GAWD what a ordeal! Ended up using a combination of a puller, BFH, heat, and colorful language. Though the one hub suffered damage but is fixable. I should of listened to MIKE's remark a little closer.....pulley and hub came popping off landing on my foot. Sang, at a high pitch, 30 rounds of kumbaya     Next move is to remove the axles and do a spline count.....come on lucky 19! Thanks guys for your suggestions! NOW FOR MORE INTERESTING STUFF NOTICE THAT THE TWO HUBS ARE DIFFERENT----SEE PIC  l The right side hub has 3 threaded holes ....is this to hold the brake drum on?.....what years had this feature? Mechanic created? Edited by jeepsterjim - 21 Sep. 2019 at 2:45am |
|
|
Jim
CJ-2A - 81299 |
|
|
|
|
Lee MN
Member
Joined: 13 Aug. 2008 Location: Harris, MN Status: Offline Points: 4950 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 21 Sep. 2019 at 3:53am |
|
The one on the right is from an M38 or A1 or an early CJ5, the brake drum is removable by removing the three 1/4” flat head screws that thread into the three holes you see!.
Lee😉 |
|
|
LEE
44 GPW-The Perfected Willys 49 2A “If you wait, you only get older” 67 M715 American Made Rolling History |
|
|
|
|
jeepsterjim
Member
Joined: 13 July 2011 Location: lincoln, ca Status: Offline Points: 1283 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 21 Sep. 2019 at 4:16am |
Thanks Lee for ID'ing the hub.
|
|
|
Jim
CJ-2A - 81299 |
|
|
|
|
Ol' Unreliable
Member
Joined: 25 Sep. 2016 Location: CO Springs CO Status: Offline Points: 4226 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 21 Sep. 2019 at 4:21am |
|
I bent one of the rear hubs on my first Jeep really badly by misusing a hub puller. I was lucky to find a shop that could and would straighten it for me.
|
|
|
There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
|
|
|
|
|
Rus Curtis
Member
Joined: 25 Mar. 2010 Location: Alabama Status: Offline Points: 1733 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 21 Sep. 2019 at 2:58pm |
The CJ-3B also had these countersunk 1/4"-20 x 11/16" screws to hold the drum on the hubs.
|
|
|
Rus Curtis
Alabama 1954 CJ3B Bantam T3-C |
|
|
|
|
jeepsterjim
Member
Joined: 13 July 2011 Location: lincoln, ca Status: Offline Points: 1283 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 21 Sep. 2019 at 10:42pm |
|
Well I was able to pull both axles out today as they are 19 spline. But I do not like the axle shaft wear caused by the oil/grease seal.
Is there a replacement seal that is a few thousandths smaller? Maybe a double seal?
|
|
|
Jim
CJ-2A - 81299 |
|
|
|
|
willys59er
Member
Joined: 25 Oct. 2012 Location: l.i. Status: Offline Points: 6 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 28 Nov. 2019 at 12:01am |
|
had a problem too, make sure the brakes are adjusted loose.and spray alot of rust buster "BLaster"into the back of the drums. leave the puller on overnight understress.the next day they should popoff. |
|
|
emily
|
|
|
|
|
AKoller
Member
Sponsor Member Joined: 19 Sep. 2018 Location: Moundridge Kans Status: Offline Points: 652 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 28 Nov. 2019 at 12:39am |
|
One thing I’ve had great luck with is when you reassemble the hub smear anti-seize on the tapered portion of the shaft. I do this every time and I have yet to fight the hubs again on disassembly.
|
|
|
1950 CJ3A "Thumper"
1966 M151 A1 1942 GPW #70221 |
|
|
|
|
SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A
Member
Sponsor Member x 3 Joined: 22 Jan. 2016 Location: S.E. Kansas Status: Offline Points: 3191 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 28 Nov. 2019 at 2:40pm |
X2...it works on the steering wheel also... |
|
|
46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red" (bought April 1969)(second owner)(12 V, 11" brakes, M-38 frame, MD Juan tub)
U.S. Coast Guard Chief Petty Officer(ret.) U.S. Army Vietnam veteran and damned proud of it. |
|
|
|
|
SYLVANWILLYS
Member
Joined: 27 May 2011 Location: Ewing, NJ Status: Offline Points: 284 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 27 June 2022 at 12:23pm |
|
Wondering if there is any chance of anything being damaged inside the differential (on post 13453 CJ2As) when pounding the end of the puller with a big hammer or sledge. Seems like the pullers threaded bolt would be driving the axle further into the differential to some degree. I have no knowledge/experience re the inside of the differential. Thanks for any insights on this.
|
|
|
|
|
Oldpappy
Member
Joined: 09 Apr. 2018 Location: Tennessee Status: Offline Points: 4908 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 27 June 2022 at 2:26pm |
|
I have used a BFH for this many times. Hitting one axle with a hammer might loosen the one on the other side but it is not likely to damage anything.
Jim, I may have a few decent hubs laying around if you can't get your flange straightened. Be careful on reassembly to start hub onto the tapered shaft ahead of tapping in the key. If you put the key in ahead of the hub it will be pushed up the ramp and will split the hub when torqued to spec. It will seem to tighten then as the split worsens it will get loose enough to come off while driving which is no fun at all (don't ask me how I know).
|
|
|
If you can't get there in a Jeep you don't need to be there!
|
|
|
|
|
Oldpappy
Member
Joined: 09 Apr. 2018 Location: Tennessee Status: Offline Points: 4908 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 27 June 2022 at 2:35pm |
|
The military hubs with the three screws make servicing in the field a lot easier because the wheel studs are not swaged into the drums, as was still being done on the CJs for some strange reason.
The screws aren't really needed and were probably done to keep the drums on the hubs when coming down the assembly line. The swaged studs on CJs with outboard drums are also not needed, but may also have been done for assembly line purposes. They are a PIA when servicing the brakes. I cut the swages and replace the wheel studs when I encounter swaged studs on the Bendix brakes with outboard drums, and I don't usually put the screws back in with the military drums, in both cases the wheel studs will align the drums and the wheel will hold them in place.
The swaged studs are a hold over from the earlier Lockheed brakes with the inboard drums. They were needed for that application. |
|
|
If you can't get there in a Jeep you don't need to be there!
|
|
|
|
|
Post Reply
|
Page 12> |
| Tweet |
| Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |
Topic Options
Lee (MN) wrote: