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Rear Full Float Locking Hubs Broken
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Rick G View Drop Down
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Points: 1467 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rick G Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Feb. 2019 at 5:44pm
Yes, thanks for the update.  Sounds like product quality was at the heart of this issue.  After looking at different hubs I choose the premium Warns because I believed them to be superior to everything else on the market at the time.  I’m surprised that Herm said AVMs were the better than Warns🤨.  Unfortunately, I broke some of my Warns on the Rubicon (from hitting boulders) a couple of years ago and have since gone back to drive flanges.  Flat towing is not an option for me now without some disassembly. 😒

Anyway, glad you got it resolved.
1947 CJ2a #119929    "Gus"
1951 CJ3a #451-GB1-24268   “Newt”

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Nothing Special View Drop Down
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Points: 843 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nothing Special Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Feb. 2019 at 5:56pm
Originally posted by vuldub vuldub wrote:

....  Also, the Warn hubs take a full 360 degree rotation to engage....

Warn Premium hubs take about a full turn to lock - unlock.  But Warn Standard hubs (at least the ones for my '97 F-250HD front axle) only take 1/4 turn to lock - unlock.  And on the ones I had, the dials were spring-loaded to twist to the "lock" position, with a light detent holding it in the "unlock" position.  In my experience the detent was too light, and I'd often find one of the hubs had moved itself to the "lock" position.  I haven't heard much about that problem, so either no one else uses Warn Standard hubs or else it isn't a common problem, but I thought I'd let you know what I experienced (I switched to Warn Premium hubs).
Bob

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vuldub View Drop Down
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Points: 58 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vuldub Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Feb. 2019 at 8:18pm
Originally posted by Nothing Special Nothing Special wrote:

Warn Premium hubs take about a full turn to lock - unlock.  
I must have the premium ones then, since 360 degrees is a full turn.

Originally posted by Nothing Special Nothing Special wrote:

 In my experience the detent was too light, and I'd often find one of the hubs had moved itself to the "lock" position. 
Which is likely why the Warn works better, it likes to stay locked, not unlocked.  Maybe that will be an issue towing, when you want it unlocked.
Regards...Wes ('52 M38)
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dluber View Drop Down
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Points: 817 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dluber Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Feb. 2019 at 1:30pm
This is a great thread and thanks for sharing your experience.  I'm interested in learning more about the actual conversion process to allow for a full float locking hubs setup.  I've looked at the kits that Herm offers, but I was wondering if there is a good write-up in the conversion procedure.  I currently have a stock Dana 41 / 10 spline in my 1946 CJ2A.  Would I need a different rear axle to start the conversion or can I use the Dana 41 I already have?  

Thanks,
Dave
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Points: 58 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vuldub Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Feb. 2019 at 2:34pm
Here's a couple of info sources:
Regards...Wes ('52 M38)
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vuldub View Drop Down
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Points: 58 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vuldub Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Feb. 2019 at 2:36pm
Originally posted by dluber dluber wrote:

 I currently have a stock Dana 41 / 10 spline in my 1946 CJ2A.  Would I need a different rear axle to start the conversion or can I use the Dana 41 I already have?  

You would need to ask Herm that question.  I don't think he has a kit for a Dana41.  If he doesn't, no one else will likely have one.


Edited by vuldub - 17 Feb. 2019 at 2:05pm
Regards...Wes ('52 M38)
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smfulle View Drop Down
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Points: 6141 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Feb. 2019 at 2:41pm
Removed per request of op.

Edited by smfulle - 16 Feb. 2019 at 3:00pm
Stan
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Points: 2035 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nofender Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Feb. 2019 at 3:59pm
Originally posted by vuldub vuldub wrote:

Originally posted by dluber dluber wrote:

 I currently have a stock Dana 41 / 10 spline in my 1946 CJ2A.  Would I need a different rear axle to start the conversion or can I use the Dana 41 I already have?  

You would need to ask Herm that question.  I don't this he has a kit for a Dana41.  If he doesn't, no one else will likely have one.

The Herm kit will fit your 41 with some mods. You’ll have to change the side gears to 19 spline as no one can I know of makes a 10 spline floater axle. 

I just started a floater build in my build thread. I’ve done floaters on later axles. But never on the earlier stuff. So I’ll be learning as I go. Although I’m building a 44, the process should be the same. 
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Rick G View Drop Down
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Points: 1467 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rick G Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Feb. 2019 at 5:22pm
Dave, you can put Herm’s FF kit in a D41.  That’s what I did.  As mentioned, you will probably have to do some minor mods.  I had to do a minor amount of machining to the carrier, but it works just fine.   I put a mini spool in my D41 that was for a 30 spline D44 as well as the Warn Premium hubs mentioned earlier.  PM me if you want some more info on the swap and modifications.

Rick
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1951 CJ3a #451-GB1-24268   “Newt”

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Points: 153 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Grumpy1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Feb. 2019 at 5:53pm
I run a full floating axle setup from Herm in my 3B, it works well after I fixed the problem of the hub bearings. The bearing and races came as part of the package. If I remember correctly they were imported and rebadged from the top name Jeep supplier. The fit in the hub was terrible once you got it started straight you could press it home with a wet noodle. Hub would never stay tight, causing a wobble tried 3  different bearing races before I found one that had the proper fit. I bought different wheel hubs thinking that was the problem, too no avail. The second set of bearing races were imported from Japan, same fit as the chi-com ones. Finally found some made in the US, nice tight pressed in fit, wheel hubs run straight and smooth. NO MORE WOBBLES, just something else to check. I ordered the us made ones from an industrial bearing supply house. I have an extra set somewhere I will post the manufacturers part number when I find them
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Points: 817 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dluber Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Feb. 2019 at 8:07pm
Thanks everyone.  I'm glad to hear I can use the existing Dana 41.  The links are also very helpful. 

Have a great weekend,
Dave
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Just happened to see tour post from February Re: Full Float Axles. I have the same setup and the same problem. Replaced all Bearings and races with US made. Worked fine until I returned from our SD trip and had to replace a Driver side outer bearing and race.
Fltfndr
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