Rear hub runout |
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BD1
Member Joined: 18 Dec. 2019 Location: Maine Status: Offline Points: 630 |
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My suspicion is that the tapered end of the key is smeared and pressure welded into the inboard end of the taper on the axle shaft. I'm hoping this doesn't lead to new axle shafts as well. I was being conservative, (for me) with the heat on the hub, keeping it under visible red to avoid making that pressure weld real.
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BD
'47 CJ2a, Shiny on top! '55 CJ5 project |
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BD1
Member Joined: 18 Dec. 2019 Location: Maine Status: Offline Points: 630 |
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So I put out the big money for a heavy duty five jaw wheel puller, (from Walmart if you can believe that), and pulled both rear hubs this afternoon. I think the 5-1/2" spread is about as small as this puller can go. Both sides had the key in upside down, the drivers side was smashed in and the hub was obviously bent and the taper on the axle shaft was not Shiney for more than an inch or so out from the bearing. The passengers side actually looked ok, the taper was Shiney until the last 3/4" of the narrow end of the taper. I put a dial indicator on both ends, and I am baffled by the results. Both axle shafts are out 8 thousandths in tight to the bearing, and they vary 50 thousandths out near the end of the taper. However, they are "in and out" twice as you go around rather than completely "strong side/weak side" which would be typical for a bent shaft. What's up with that? It's as though the tapers were cut with a file by hand and then scooted up or something?
Edited by BD1 - 11 Jan. 2020 at 11:47pm |
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BD
'47 CJ2a, Shiny on top! '55 CJ5 project |
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Lee MN
Member Joined: 13 Aug. 2008 Location: Harris, MN Status: Offline Points: 4953 |
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Sir, the hub in the photo is junk, it was assembled with the key in the axel, and as the hub was installed it slid up and cracked the seal surface. Not by you likely but someone in the past. If your axel has run out then it to most likely needs replacement.
Lee |
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LEE
44 GPW-The Perfected Willys 49 2A “If you wait, you only get older” 67 M715 American Made Rolling History |
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BD1
Member Joined: 18 Dec. 2019 Location: Maine Status: Offline Points: 630 |
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I understand that that hub is junk. What I don't understand is the indicated read on the axle shafts? Are they all out of round this way, or are mine the result of running on bad hubs or what. I am used to shafts that are bent reading plus on one side and minus on the other, The " in and out, in and out" as you go around baffles me. This stuff wan't hand made, was it?
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BD
'47 CJ2a, Shiny on top! '55 CJ5 project |
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jeeper50
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 01 Mar. 2008 Location: Spanish Fort AL Status: Offline Points: 2579 |
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Here are some NOS hubs. $55 ea
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Belleview ol skool winch soon. '48 CJ2A 283 V8 sm 420 granny low, tera low D18, overdrive,lockers Texan at heart,Alabama by retirement |
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Lee MN
Member Joined: 13 Aug. 2008 Location: Harris, MN Status: Offline Points: 4953 |
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I once purchased an M38 that had a broken axel, sheared off just behind the key way. I removed the axel stub from the hub in a press, the PO had assembled it and had slid the key back like yours and cracked the hub like yours and no doubt had a hell of a wobble, he towed it down the interstate with a tow bar and the wobble caused the axel to shear off, so yes if yours were caught in time most likely is bent outside the bearing, I do not believe you should find any runout on the end of the axel. So yes I believe your axels in time have bent because of the hubs running untrue over a period of time. Were i you, I would post in the wanted section here for “used original axels & hubs”, and avoid the Chi-Com aftermarket replacements. Many members here have several used axel assembly’s laying around and may offer you parts a a decent price. My experience, Lee |
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LEE
44 GPW-The Perfected Willys 49 2A “If you wait, you only get older” 67 M715 American Made Rolling History |
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BD1
Member Joined: 18 Dec. 2019 Location: Maine Status: Offline Points: 630 |
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My five jaw puller came a bit ago and I easily pulled my hubsand two other hubs on an axle I bought. I don't think it's a case of having five jaws rather than three as much as it is a case of a much larger center bolt and the ability to move the jaws to exactly line up on the wheel studs. I think if you are using a three jaw puller it is critical that you align symmetrically to the key, either split two of the jaws, or line up one jaw on the key with the other two evenly spaced opposite. I've had the opportunity to look closely at four well used keys now and a few of them show slight, but obvious, old spiral deformation of the projecting portion of the key which seems like it could only be the result of torsional forces that occurred during the hubs being pulled in the past. This puller is overkill for a jeep, but I didn't break it, the hubs came off straight :)
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BD
'47 CJ2a, Shiny on top! '55 CJ5 project |
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a4cj2a77
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 03 Sep. 2012 Location: Seal Beach Ca. Status: Offline Points: 566 |
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Puller you bought looks identical to a used snap-on I bought to pull my hubs except mine came with 3 feet or jaws instead of 5. On my hubs I tightened the center bolt and then hit the bolt with a copper mallet with success. I could see 5 jaw would be a plus on hubs that have been on for many years and rusty. I wonder who makes that puller and rebrands
Phil
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