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Rear Output Housing Shims |
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Berdo 
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Joined: 16 Apr. 2011 Location: San Tan Valley Status: Offline Points: 20 |
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 Topic: Rear Output Housing ShimsPosted: 22 Dec. 2021 at 6:50pm |
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Hello - I’m replacing the transfer case output shaft seals on our 1948 CJ-2A. When I separated the rear output shaft housing from the transfer case, there were four metal shims and one gasket. I think the gasket was supposed to go between the outside of the housing and the emergency brake plate? Now as I get ready to reinstall the housing, I notice a very large gap (1/4”) between back surface of the housing and the transfer case. I don’t recall the gap being that big when disassembling. I keep reading about “runout” and how critical it is. Can someone please help talk me through this? I realize this first post isn’t going to provide enough information, but am hoping someone might have a bit of patience with me. Picture, I hope, to follow.
Many thanks,
Berdo |
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oldtime
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Joined: 12 Sep. 2009 Location: Missouri Status: Offline Points: 4184 |
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Posted: 22 Dec. 2021 at 7:32pm |
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Yes a gasket was only used between the bearing cap and the brake plate.
A large gap suggests that your bearing cup is not seated up angainst the cone roller. Draw the cup snug up to the cone rollers then remove the bearing cap and install shims. If bearing is shimmed correct then the runout should be negligible.
Edited by oldtime - 22 Dec. 2021 at 7:39pm |
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
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Berdo
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Joined: 16 Apr. 2011 Location: San Tan Valley Status: Offline Points: 20 |
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Posted: 22 Dec. 2021 at 7:51pm |
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Oldtime - Thank you for the quick reply. I’m with you on the paper gasket location. But, I’m afraid I don’t understand what you mean by drawing up the cone rollers? Does something at the transfer case give way, which will reduce the gap?
(Couldn’t figure out how to post pictures. I can post them on other forums, but not here for some reason).
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Berdo
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Posted: 22 Dec. 2021 at 8:24pm |
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Like the bearing race will snug back into the transfer case as I tighten the housing?
Edited by Berdo - 22 Dec. 2021 at 8:25pm |
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oldtime
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Posted: 22 Dec. 2021 at 9:06pm |
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Basically you need make sure the cone is fully seated onto the output shaft.
Then the cup is pushed into the case bore till it fully contacts the cone. There should be a few thousands between the rear bearing cap and the case. And that small gap is where you adjust the output end play. |
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
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Bitz
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Joined: 17 Dec. 2020 Location: MN Status: Offline Points: 275 |
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Posted: 23 Dec. 2021 at 12:41am |
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Hey. I have not actually done a rebuild but assume you have a Dana 18 transfer case? Here is a really good walk thru of a rebuild. Not saying it is perfect (it may well be) but has lots of good info.
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Berdo
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Posted: 23 Dec. 2021 at 8:25am |
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Bitz - Thank you. Yes, Dana 18. I think this is what I was looking for. From your link (excellent narrative by willystech):
“A20d. Remember to pattern tighten the housing bolts so you don’t break the bearing housing, remember you are pressing the race in.**” So, it seems that race is indeed being pushed back into the transfer case as the housing is tightened (I thought it was part of the transfer case casting, not a pressed-in bearing race). Which begs the question, Why did it come out any in the first place if all I was doing is R and R-ing the bearing housing? If I didn’t change anything else, should the original four metal shims assure proper runout, provided the runout was correct in the first place? |
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SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A
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Sponsor Member x 3 Joined: 22 Jan. 2016 Location: S.E. Kansas Status: Offline Points: 3190 |
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Posted: 23 Dec. 2021 at 9:00am |
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The race(cup) is a slight slip fit into the housing and it probably slid out of place during disassembly. It is more than likely slightly cocked in the bore of the housing but will correct itself IF you are careful about evenly tightening the housing bolts. If you are not careful during the tightening process it could cause the housing to break or the bore of the housing to become broached by the back edge of the race.
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46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red" (bought April 1969)(second owner)(12 V, 11" brakes, M-38 frame, MD Juan tub)
U.S. Coast Guard Chief Petty Officer(ret.) U.S. Army Vietnam veteran and damned proud of it. |
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Berdo
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Posted: 23 Dec. 2021 at 9:08am |
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SE Kansas
Got it. And thank you for your service to our country.
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Bitz
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Posted: 23 Dec. 2021 at 11:29am |
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Metal shaper has a really good you tube on this. From 4 years ago and about 1 hr long. He walks you thru it. And mentions if you try and drive to hard you can snap a tab. He drives his using a dead blow mallet.
Bitz
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Berdo
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Posted: 23 Dec. 2021 at 12:01pm |
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Thanks, Bitz:
Upon further and much closer inspection, I can start to see around the perimeter of the outside of the bearing race the top edge of some numbers. If I had noticed those numbers earlier, I might’ve realized that it was indeed a race, and not a forged part of TC. I understand now, that the race will be squeezed back in to the TC as I tighten the housing verrrrrry carefully. And I’ll make sure there’s proper runout.
Thank you all for the help. One last question before I get back to it - is there an inside and outside to the new yoke seals? I don’t work on cars as much as I used to, and can’t remember. Berdo |
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Oldpappy
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Posted: 23 Dec. 2021 at 1:08pm |
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I second the suggestion you watch "Metal Shaper's" video on doing this.
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If you can't get there in a Jeep you don't need to be there!
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Bitz
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Posted: 23 Dec. 2021 at 2:23pm |
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If I understand your question the seal goes with the “spring” towards the oil side. Also covered in metal shapers video
Bitz
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Steelyard Blues
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Posted: 23 Dec. 2021 at 7:04pm |
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Since you mentioned that you are not that familiar with working on cars and that you are doing this to stop leaks, I'm going to throw this out there in case you were not aware, or it is not covered in the videos mentioned. Your yoke probably has a grove in it from the old seal. A new seal will not be able to account for the wear and you will probably end up with a leak. Some people repair the surface with a speedy sleeve. I prefer to replace the yoke. They are not that expensive.
It is a good idea to put a little grease on the new seal as well as the area on the yoke in which it rides. Also, I like to put Permatex #2 on the splines of the output shaft and yoke. Micah
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1947 CJ2A 106327, Engine J109205, Tub 97077. Luzon Red
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/steelyard-blues_topic41024_post397981.html?KW=micah+movie#397981 1965 Johnson Furnace Company M416 #6-1577 |
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Bitz
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Posted: 23 Dec. 2021 at 7:46pm |
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Micah is right about the grove. There is discussion in the written procedure and metal shaper usually replaces them with a harden one for back then around $35 maybe money well spent
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Berdo
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Posted: 23 Dec. 2021 at 8:24pm |
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Thank you, Micah.
Yes, this particular yoke was badly grooved and pitted. The others were just as bad, so I’ve bought new yokes and seals (Kaiser Willys) for all around. And I appreciate the other tips you mentioned. I’ll post an update after I watch the previously recommended video, and reinstall the rear housing. Berdo
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Berdo
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Posted: 23 Dec. 2021 at 10:34pm |
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Bitz:
I watched that metalshaper video, and the one Oldpappy recommended. Excellent videos, especially at 39’ 10”. Clears things up quite a bit. Progress report to follow after Christmas. Until then, Merry Christmas.
Berdo |
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Bitz
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Posted: 23 Dec. 2021 at 10:39pm |
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Good to hear. He has a lot of good videos. Sometimes the camera work is not quite there 😳
Merry Christmas and good luck Bitz By the way G503 has good videos but some is unique to MB but drivechain stuff is pretty common across the board
Edited by Bitz - 23 Dec. 2021 at 10:42pm |
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