rear output yoke problem on Tcase

Maybe the hex on the 4 special bolt are not seated in the recess in the drum?

Are you sure the shoes are the right size for the drum.  If everything else was the same and was previously working, and you only replaced the shoes, it's a logical place to start. 

Is the yoke new?

Is speedometer  drive gear in position under the rear bearing cap ?

are you torquing to correct specs? The three nuts you mention should be castle nuts with cotter pins, and usually do not require much torque.

Edited by lowenuf - 20 Nov. 2018 at 2:31am

Thanks for the replies, guys. I'll reply to the questions in order.
I did buy a replacement yoke from KW because the original had slight wear on the neck. However, I've been trying both yokes to cure the problem but no go so I think they are equivalent. Looking at the photo of the 2 yokes, the only difference is the angle of taper above the spline section which shouldn't make any difference.   The speedo gear is where it should be. The oil seal is set 1/8" into the shaft housing and it's down solid. I noted the internal diameter of the shaft housing is 2.5" and the skirt that holds the felt ring is slightly less, maybe 0.010", so the skirt (on both yokes) is definitely bottoming out inside the housing and on top of the oil seal. I also shot a pic of the brake assembly. I'm using castle nuts (front and rear) on the yokes and I believe the torque is about 130 ft-lbs on the front yoke which I did easily and the yoke is just fine. I have noticed when I start to mount the drum/hub, the drum is standing off a bit until I start to tighten the nut. I have not seen any torque numbers for the rear yoke but I was planning on about 100 ft-lbs which it would take to set the cotter pin in the nut. I'm binding up at about 50 ft-lbs so the nut is not down enough to set the cotter pin. I am using the USM but not too descriptive on the rear yoke torque. BTW, is there a full list of torque values somewhere as the USM has only 24 values for the entire frame and drivetrain? Thanks for all the comments.
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Jeff Davis had a good thought.  Did you do something to the TC while it was out?  Did you pull the rear bearing cap and forget to put the shims back in?

I've seen metal shapers videos about that and the T90 transmission.  He leaves many things out of his videos.  I'd go back and check a few others to double check what you did.

I'm pretty darn sure I cleaned out the seals. The TC was a mess when we started so we scraped, soaked, and dug out all the dirt and muck. We primed and painted the case, and both housings so I'm sure the landings for the grease seals were very clean. If you watch the metalshaper video, he torques down the rear yoke and drum like it's a walk in the park. I don't know what I'm doing wrong but there is a reason I'm hanging up on this yoke and seal/housing.