Forum Home Forum Home > CJ-2A Discussion Area > Tech Questions and Answers
  New Posts New Posts RSS Feed - Rear pinion seal question
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Events   Register Register  Login Login

Rear pinion seal question

 Post Reply Post Reply
Author
Message
1wayout View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 18 Apr. 2012
Location: SW Virginia
Status: Offline
Points: 96
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1wayout Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Rear pinion seal question
    Posted: 28 Aug. 2021 at 8:46am
So rear pinion seal leaking on 48 2A. Ordered part # 998092 from Ron Fitzpatrick and they obviously do not look the same. My concern is when I put in the new seal, the rubber flange that sticks out will not allow me to secure the castle nut back in place and line up with the pinion. Is it as simple as torqueing down the nut enough to make it line up?  
Back to Top
TERRY View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar
Sponsor Member

Joined: 22 May 2007
Location: BOULDER COLORADO
Status: Offline
Points: 3396
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TERRY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Aug. 2021 at 10:34am
Not sure what you mean, the seal lip goes towards the oil, i.e. on the inside of the differential.
BOULDER 48 2A
Back to Top
SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar
Sponsor Member x 3

Joined: 22 Jan. 2016
Location: S.E. Kansas
Status: Offline
Points: 3183
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Aug. 2021 at 11:08am
The new style seal is used on newer models of Dana axles but will fit the older ones also. The protruding rubber molded on the front of the seal is designed to fit in the slinger that is on the pinion yoke. This helps keep the main sealing element of the seal mostly protected from water, mud and road grit. The back element of the seal (towards the differential) has a garter spring on the last part of the seal that provides insurance that the sealing element is snug against the pinion yoke. Of course, the pinion yoke sealing surface should be smooth and not grooved from wear. If it is worn or grooved a replacement should be installed. I have found that sometimes during the installation of the seal the spring will become dislodged from the seal groove and lead to the early failure of the seal. This can be prevented by applying some grease over the spring and groove of the seal. The grease will do no harm to the differential or the seal.

After the pinion yoke is installed on the splines of the pinion along with the pinion washer. The pinion nut is torqued to 200-220 foot-pounds. This will be difficult to do without backing up the pinion yoke with a pipe wrench and a cheater pipe over the handle of the pipe wrench. The pipe wrench and cheater can either contact the frame or the floor on the free end. Care should be taken not to have the pipe wrench contact the pinion yoke slinger. With the pinion nut properly torqued, if the castles on the pinion nut line up with the cotter pin hole in the pinion, you are good to go. If they don't line up, then tighten the pinion nut a little at a time until it does line up. Do not back the pinion nut off to get it to match with the cotter pin hole in the pinion. Install the cotter key and bend over at least one of the tangs.

Good luck.
46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red" (bought April 1969)(second owner)(12 V, 11" brakes, M-38 frame, MD Juan tub)

U.S. Coast Guard Chief Petty Officer(ret.)
U.S. Army Vietnam veteran and damned proud of it.



Back to Top
1wayout View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 18 Apr. 2012
Location: SW Virginia
Status: Offline
Points: 96
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1wayout Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Aug. 2021 at 11:14am
This is great info! Many thanks gentlemen!
Back to Top
wfopete View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 27 Nov. 2020
Location: Dover, Arkansas
Status: Offline
Points: 301
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wfopete Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Sep. 2021 at 9:59pm
I am in the middle of replacing my front diff seal (pulled it out tonight).  I will probably buy a Speedy Sleeve of sorts due to the groove in the yoke as opposed to buying a new yoke. Interesting in that newer diff uses a torque drag spec (usually in IN/LBS) to measure correct bearing preload.  No such animal for the CJ2A diff? Just 200+ ft/Lbs?
Suffer Fools, Gladly!
U.S. Army Iraq Veteran (ret.)
Back to Top
BD1 View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 18 Dec. 2019
Location: Maine
Status: Offline
Points: 626
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BD1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Sep. 2021 at 8:22am
There is a torque drag spec for the Dana 41, and early 44s, but it is only used when setting the initial preload which is determined by a shim stack. So once set, when you remove the yoke it is re-tightened against the shim stack and the preload is already set. Newer axles use a crush sleeve which gets replaced every time you remove the yoke and the preload is re-set by partially crushing the sleeve to a particular torque value.
BD
'47 CJ2a, Shiny on top!
'55 CJ5 project
Back to Top
wfopete View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 27 Nov. 2020
Location: Dover, Arkansas
Status: Offline
Points: 301
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wfopete Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Sep. 2021 at 8:38am
Thanks you that info.  I was watching a YouTube video of a seal replacement of a modern Jeep and the installer talked about the crush sleeve but never replaced it.  Instead he kept hitting the yoke nut with a impact until the drag was good.  I'm not sure if he even could access the crush sleeve without going in and pulling the pinon gear out.
Suffer Fools, Gladly!
U.S. Army Iraq Veteran (ret.)
Back to Top
BD1 View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 18 Dec. 2019
Location: Maine
Status: Offline
Points: 626
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BD1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Sep. 2021 at 7:57pm
Sorry, I missed that it was a front dif seal. But the 25 is also a shim stack rather than a crush sleeve
BD
'47 CJ2a, Shiny on top!
'55 CJ5 project
Back to Top
wfopete View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 27 Nov. 2020
Location: Dover, Arkansas
Status: Offline
Points: 301
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wfopete Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Sep. 2021 at 8:42pm
Just for fun I pulled the front diff cover off today to have a looksie.  

Four of the eight ring gear bolt heads were sheared off.  I only found one bolt head sitting in the bottom of the diff case. Jeeze, it doesn't get much better than that. I guess I'll need to get smart on rebuilding Dana 25's or maybe I'll just remove the front driveshaft and put on some locking hubs.  
Suffer Fools, Gladly!
U.S. Army Iraq Veteran (ret.)
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 12.06
Copyright ©2001-2022 Web Wiz Ltd.