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Rebuild '47

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jan145 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jan145 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jan. 2021 at 8:54pm
update on the progress

The engine block is cracked and i need to replace it
Now I'm looking for a engine block, hope to get one this week.

The frame has been cleaned.
It was baked in a oven to get the paint off
Then glass pearl blasted that's like sand blasting but less aggressive
Now it is at a company to get a hot zink dip

back from cleaning

cleaned the springs and put a rust converter and primer on

so progress is being made Smile

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jan145 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jan. 2021 at 12:03am
update time again.

I bought a "new" engine block as bare as can be. Just the block and the main bearing caps.
It seems oke. I found out that at a 20 minute drive way there is a small company that is specialized in WW2 jeeps. So my engine block and parts are now there for a over haul. He will come in handy as a parts supplier as well.



The frame is back and galvanized

nice and shiny


The body is in such a good shape that I only need to put some rust converter on some spots and then paint the under side with underbody coating



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jan145 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Feb. 2021 at 10:08pm
small update

I have taken the axles apart just to see in that state they are and replace any thing that is warn
So far the bearings seem  oke

By the looks of the rear axle diff cover something bad happened in its life time
  

the diff carrier has some scars as well

the ring gear has some marks
the pignon is not running in the correct spot so that will need some adjusting.

made a hub puller....... not subtle but it works.

now it is cleaning, painting, changing  a few parts and re-assembling 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jan145 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Feb. 2021 at 10:34am
update:

axles are painted ,new seals and yokes

started assembling Smile


really nice to start the building phase


My engine is still at the rebuilder .
I like to raise the compression ratio. So i would like to shave the head , but how much?
I have read several different amounts , but I don't how much is already taken of the head or maybe nothing is taken of.
How thick is a new head?


He had an idea as well . The heat or carbon dam that is in the top of the piston,  make this bigger and fit a extra piston ring in this place.   He  has done this once on a customers request but has not got any feedback on how the engine performed.
It would give less leakage on the pistons and help the compression and combustion.
But is this heat carbon dam vital? there are engines that don't have them.
Would the extra drag on the cylinder wall be more then the power gained?
and how much would the wear increase on the cylinder wall ? 
Does any one have experience with this?

any way lots of ideas, all input is much appreciated 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steelyard Blues Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Feb. 2021 at 2:00am
It is always nice to see someone start a project and make a comment in their first post that they hope it doesn't get out of hand only to see them progress to a galvanized frame, wanting custom pistons and a shaved head. Smile I have done two rotisserie restorations that were supposed to not get out of hand.

The link in one of my previous posts listed a piston manufacturer. The have an over-bore piston which will get you up from 6.5 to 7.1. 


If you want to go beyond that, this company makes headers, can do a custom cam grind and add a 2bbl Weber carb.   Jeep 258/4.0 (cliffordperformance.net)

Back in the day, Vic Hickey was the gut to go to for performance L134 goodies. I would love to find one of his aluminum heads. Here is a good discussion of engine modifications and links to some articles.

Some more info:

Good luck.

Micah

1947 CJ2A 106327, Engine J109205, Tub 97077. Luzon Red

https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/steelyard-blues_topic41024_post397981.html?KW=micah+movie#397981

1965 Johnson Furnace Company M416 #6-1577
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jan145 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Feb. 2021 at 7:49pm
yes is getting a bit out of hand.

The replacement block that i bought has already got cylinder  sleeves and is now STD bore.
It will probably go to 0.020 over bore.

Thanks for all the links,

I've been talking to my engine rebuild guy , he usually does vintage WW2 willys and fords
So he builds engines to factory spec.
He is exited as well to try and get a bit more performance out of the engine.
we have planned to swap the  L head con-rods for F head ones.
they should be more stout and better in handling the increased power .
   

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jan145 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Feb. 2021 at 9:58pm
Maybe things are starting to get out of hand Smile

This week a shipment arrived from "Herm the overdrive guy" Clap

I bought a lot of goodies from him:
Front and rear disk brakes with master cylinder
overdrive
transfer-case with Terralow gears installed

the disks are huge compared to the drums


made a sort of socked for the centre nut


I had to grind of a just small bit of the caliper so it did not touch the knuckle on right side
The left caliper cleared the knuckle with out grinding. I guess small differences in casting



rear ones


After assembling the gearbox and transfer-case I had to heat and bend the gear levers of the transfer-case so they would not clash with the overdrive stick  


So good progress so far

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jan145 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 June 2021 at 3:56pm
It has been a wile and there has been some progress
Time fore a update.

I had custom stainless steel brake hoses made and made the brake lines
I hope with the stainless steel hose the brakes will be less sponge i 

the engine block had sleeves in already, but they where that badly corroded that they had to be bored out completely.
So new sleeves

they where bored 0.010 over to make them nice and round

Valve guides are replaced, valve seats are milled out and replaced with hardened seats.
I am planning to run the engine on LPG liquid petroleum gas witch burns hotter so hardened seats are needed 

The block is decked, it has been decked so much in it's life that the serial number on the block is now gone. When the pistons are in TDC they peak out the block by 0.20 MM (0.008 inch).
I swapped the cilinderhead. Mine was a WW2 head and the guy who does all the machining is specialized in WW2 jeeps.  Fore me it has no added value, for his jeeps it has. So i swapped it for a cj head. He also milled the head to get a bit more compression. 
he took 0.8 MM off ( 0.031 inch) It was a bit of a guess. He had never taken off this much of a head before and i was not sure how much you can take off a head.  We did this thickness because now the heads overall thickness is the same as the thickness for a super sonic head.
I measured the volume as good as possible and it holds about 86 cubic centimetres.
When it is al finished i will fined out how much power i have gained.

All the new bits are in and it is nice and blue.

Time to mount it and get the rest done

 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote otto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 June 2021 at 6:11pm
It looks like a solid engine that should last quite a while. Doesn't propane have a higher octane than gasoline? The milling and compression jump shouldn't be a problem. I also hear that the engine oil stays much cleaner running on propane.
47 CJ2A w/fuel injected boat engine
48 CJ2A
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If you can't get there in a Jeep, get a motorcycle!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jan145 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 July 2021 at 2:04pm
Originally posted by otto otto wrote:

It looks like a solid engine that should last quite a while. Doesn't propane have a higher octane than gasoline? The milling and compression jump shouldn't be a problem. I also hear that the engine oil stays much cleaner running on propane.


The LPG that you get here is a propane/butane mix. It has a octane rating of 100 so compression is not a issue.
The engine oil does stay allot cleaner. when it is time for a oil change the oil is almost as clean as when it went  in the engine.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jan145 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 July 2021 at 2:30pm
Time for a update.

things did not go so well when i tighten the head nuts. Some dirt and rust had fallen out off the head when i put it on the block and it got in between the head and the gasket. Strange sounds when tightening so opened it up again and saw the problem. gasket ruined . cleaned the head good got a new gasket and tried again.
Long before i got close to the prescribed torque ,one of the studs came out of the block. bit of a set back.

 

borrowed a friends magnet drill and put a helicoil in.
that worked but i was sweating and it was a relief when the torque wrench went click.


sanded the body

hand painted it with a brush and roller.
doesn't look to bad.

lifted the engine in

started on the plumbing
made brake lines got the exhaust on
filled al the oil , bled the brakes
I guess next step is getting the body back on .

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jan145 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 July 2021 at 5:09pm
allot of stuff happened so time fore a update:

I mounted the body back on


the little yellow forklift makes life so much easy-er don't know how we ever could have lived withoutBig smile

the body is mounted on nylon blocks that give almost a inch of body lift. 
then it was time to see witch size tire I could fit

7.50 r16

215/85 r16

I have always tried to fit the biggest tire possible , but for some reason the 7.50 r16 just did not look right in my opinion. I have read allot on this form about tire size and i have looked at several types and tread patterns ,thought allot about all the options...... and then it doesn't look right and it al goes out the window LOL
a friend who had the 215/85/16 lying around gave it to me and said the plus side is now you only have to buy 3 tires......... but Hankook has changed it's tread pattern and i had to buy 4.
 



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jan145 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Sep. 2021 at 6:16pm
hi, it has been a while so time for a update:

As I was putting the engine back to getter it was hard to turn it round.
I first though it was just things having to "run inn"
but after some time i just knew i was kidding my self
So i pulled it apart again and saw that i have a main bearing issue

The engine is in a machine shop to have it line-bored
The most rear main bearing seems not to be completely round
Since i bought the engine block bare without a crack it might be possible that
the bearing cap is not of this engine block.

but on other fronds progress is made.

When i put the new seat in its spot there was not enough room to sit comfortable behind the wheel.  
So made some room for the driver seat to go back . to bad i had already painted the body.

new made seat frame

The seats are tempress boat-seats. I read on this form some one (can"t remember who) put boat seats in and just thinking what a great idea, they are waterproof and probably durable.  


the passenger seat is a bit more forward so the tube did not have to be cut

handle for unlocking the seat so it can be tilted


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jan145 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Sep. 2021 at 6:51pm
started on the roll-bar

As well as big base plates under the roll bar i welded a piece of angle iron to the tubes.
they make the bar more ridged and ad to the amount of surface area that the roll bar in attached to.
on the inside of the angle iron i drilled holes to mound footman loops so i can tie down cargo.

Made a removable bar that ties the roll bar to the windscreen.
This is mainly to give some head room when i have some sort of bikini top on.
I hope it makes the windscreen also a bit more ridged for when the soft top is tied down to the back so the wind screen does not flex back.

That is the state of things now hope to have more updates soon.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jan145 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Mar. 2022 at 3:54pm
Well it has been way to long
finally time for a update.

I had some profiles made

these will be used to make rocksliders.

there are nuts welded to the inside profile. the slider will be bolted from the inside out threw the body


some metal profiles were made for the back bumper as well
I like the bumper to wrap around the corner of the body.
I think it looks nice and it ads some protection for the corner
To get a bend in the strait piece i have cut out small triangles
it fits nice

now it is a lot of welding and grinding

 put in a hitch receiver so i have a recovery point and maybe tow a small trailer

turned out nice

because i put in a 2centimeter body lift, the side mount pillar of the frond fender had to be extended
and on the right side the fender had to be changed around the battery .
the mount pillar turned out to have a bit of rust and a bad old rust repair in it.
so i cut it out and weld in a new piece

for the front bumper i had a c profile made
i cut a hole and mounting plate for the winch

made brackets for the recovery points.
the eye that i am using is a 80 grade end link for a lifting chain.
this link is normally used to connect the chain to the big master ring at the end of a chain

i cut slots in the bumper so the brackets for the recovery points stick threw the c channel and are welded on the inside and outside o the bumper.

it all turned out nice .
The winch is a 9500 lbs narrow drum so it fits well in between the frame rails.

now it is some more grinding and cleaning up welds and make a taper on the ends of the front bumper.
after al that is done all the metal work can go of to be powder coated

so quite a few thing have happened but there is still a lot to do















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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Scratch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Mar. 2022 at 5:15pm
Nice job!  I really like that rear bumper!
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46 CJ2A 77632 Wht
47 CJ2A 141681 Grn
48 CJ2A 156240 Red/Yel
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jan145 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Apr. 2022 at 5:32pm
a bit of a update

so first i thought i would taper the ends off the bumper, but i was not completely sold on the idea
So i ended up doing the same as on the rear bumper, i cut out small wedges about 2cm apparat ,bended the ends in , welded it all back up and grinded it flat.


made a plate in the middle to attach the number plate
the number plates in the Netherlands  are quite large, this one slightly smaller because i am allowed to use the old style number because off the age off the Willlys


i painted all the bits that still needed paint in one go, (fenders hood grill wind-shield)
this took up allot of space so the whole workshop was full of stuff that needed paint

I even put parts in my dad's hobby bakery that is next to the work shop.
Luckily my dad was still able to make some nice pastries for the coffee break Big smile

 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nofender Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Apr. 2022 at 7:42pm
Very nice fab work! Keep it up! 
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