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Rebuilding a W-O

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usmcpmi View Drop Down
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    Posted: 05 Dec. 2018 at 8:20pm
So I've decided to try and rebuild the W-O I have sitting around. Any suggestions on things to look for after I get it cleaned up? I've done several other carbs through the years, so I don't think it will be a problem. But I'd like to pick your brains and see if I can get it right the first go around. 
Thanks!
'48 CJ2A/192948
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Dec. 2018 at 10:12pm
Stan
48 CJ2A (Grampa's Jeep)
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Grampa's Jeep Build Thread
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote unclemoak Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec. 2018 at 10:28am
I cleaned mine up by lightly soda blasting it with the $20 gravity feed blaster from Harbor Freight. 





I used a typical master rebuild kit on mine. I watched a handful of videos about setting the accelerator pump and metering rod. 

Taking it apart, cleaning everything, and installing new parts is pretty simple. Have a parts diagram handy for reference if you’re forgetful. 

I did have to track down a few screws for the hand throttle cable clamp and the idle adjustment, but that was a simple trip to the hardware store. 


After installing, I did have to fiddle with the timing and mixture screw a little to get it running right. At first it didn’t have a lot of power, but after some tweaking, it runs great. 

I’d highly suggest investing in a vacuum gauge and tach/dwell meter and following scoutpilot’s video on tuning without a timing light - https://youtu.be/M3UZBKZoIWY



WTB - Trico Vacuum wiper motors and intact Carter WOs
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greaser007 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec. 2018 at 12:31pm
   I had attached a Craigslist link for a rear PTO set-up several weeks back.
The unit was for sale somewhere here in northern-California, but I can't remember whether it was local or over in Reno, Nevada.

Unclemoak: I like your suggestion of tuning with dwell-meter and vacuum gauge.
I am 67 years old and have never used a timing light, but do use a vacuum gauge successfully. On newer fuel injected engines, we cannot set timing, because the engine control module does it for us. (simple-simon).
My father told me that before timing-lights existed, the mechanics all used vacuum gauges to get timing close, then road-test, and retard the timing until the engine would not Ping under heavy load or acceleration.

   The last Carter WO I rebuilt was back in 1985, and it took me through the Rubicon Trail 2-summers without protest and idled like a Singer sewing machine nice and smooth.
   I have found the drawings on the following page to be very helpful to understand how the carb systems and circuits function.

http://jeepdraw.com/images/jeepdraw/ADOBE_ACROBAT_FILES/TM9-1826A_Carburetor(539S).pdf

Well, for some reason, this link won't work, so you may have to copy and past it into your search-bar.   hmm (it works on my Bookmarks).
The parentheses must affect the link. I did go to "jeepdraw.com" and it works, then, migrate down to the brochures and manuals section and click on the "TM9-1826A" carburetor link to see the above link that won't work here.

(you can 'save' this pdf to your hard-drive too) or Bookmark.
When viewing the document, there should be a 'save' icon in the upper right, then click on "save-as" and point to where you wish to save it on your hard-drive or a Thumb-drive.

   I am trying to re-educate myself on the Carter with hopes of installing one on my '46 L134 in the future. (my '46 currently has a Solex-clone - project)

   All those Links in the "How-to" thread are priceless. thanks smfulie

   Look on the bottom flange, and there should be numbers stamped like "200" or "407" or "427" which should designate the Series 450, 539, 572 or 698.
(I just learned this from reading the above "link" attached). _ _ haha

   I thought the attached link might be helpful for someone else, like me to hopefully understand these carbs.
   Enjoy,

   Len

Edited by Greaser007 - 06 Dec. 2018 at 1:04pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote usmcpmi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec. 2018 at 1:20pm
Thanks for the insight! Like I said, I'm running a Solex now. It runs Great! Just a pain to get it started! With no choke, the engine just doesn't get enough fuel. In my opinion,  the "enricher" just doesn't do anything. It will take arou d 10 tries to get it to start. Or just a little "squirt" in the carb and it starts right up. So time to dust off the W-O and put it back in service.  
'48 CJ2A/192948
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greaser007 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec. 2018 at 2:07pm
   Well, in that Case !

   If it likes just a little-squirt, then my guess is your accelerator-pump is not discharging any fuel into the throat of the carb for start-up.

   Seems I was reading in one of the carb articles where it mentioned that if you have difficulty starting the engine with only the "starter-valve" (enrichener), to give the gas pedal a couple of pushes to squirt fuel into the carb for warm-restarts.

   There is a accel-pump inlet jet on the bottom of the carb, and if it doesn't have a check-ball in it, your accelerator pump WILL NOT SQUIRT.

   Believe it or not:   I had to install a check-ball in mine. The kit from Quadra-tec had no provisions for a check-ball either. Yes, it is an OMIX kit, and I am not impressed a bit. Even the stamped paper gaskets don't fit without modification.   Hang in there with that Solex.

   My guess is that an Original Solex does have the check-balls like intended.

   Len
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote usmcpmi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec. 2018 at 3:00pm
Ok...so if it won't "squirt" fuel if it's missing a check ball somewhere, how does the engine not fall on it's face when you accelerate? Simply opening the throttle without the initial "squirt" of fuel should cause the engine to stall. And if it makes a difference,  the dwell and timing are spot on, compression is around 95. All new valves and matched seats. I guess I could pull the air horn and look in the throat to see of there is a "squirt"....
I think that's my word of the day..."squirt"...  lol...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greaser007 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Dec. 2018 at 12:35pm
   yes, if the accelerator pump is not working, you will have a stumble on take off from a stop.

   So you are not getting any stumble once running I take it.

An interesting thing with the Solex carbs is that they have a fixed-height float level, non adjustable from what I have read.

   Let's hope one of the experts chimes-in with a good suggestion.
   I am learning about the Solex, so I had better just 'follow-along.'
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote usmcpmi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Dec. 2018 at 9:27am
So, hmmmm... to say the W-O rebuild didn't work is a slight understatement. I removed the Solex, and bolted on the "rebuilt" W-O
 No problem. And to my surprise, it started right up! Things were looking good! As soon as I tried to throttle up, it fell flat, like someone had shut off the key. Hmmm...restart. idles fine. So after playing with the air mixture, changing the timing and idle screw I managed to drive down the driveway. To say it runs like carp is a gross understatement. Made it back to the shop and shut it off. The timing is sitting at 20*, and I have no idea where the idle screw sits...I think I'm going to put the Solex back on...at least I will ba able to drive it. As much as I hate to admit it, I should have sent it to Scout pilot and spent the $$$. Ouch
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote athawk11 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Dec. 2018 at 9:54am
It doesn't sound like you have interest in finding the issue.  If you do, focus on the accelerator pump and the circuit/passages affected by it.  The accelerator circuit takes over the fuel delivery once you press the accelerator.

Edited by athawk11 - 16 Dec. 2018 at 9:57am
1- 1946 CJ2A   
2- 1949 CJ3A
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote usmcpmi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Dec. 2018 at 11:23am
Originally posted by athawk11 athawk11 wrote:

It doesn't sound like you have interest in finding the issue.  If you do, focus on the accelerator pump and the circuit/passages affected by it.  The accelerator circuit takes over the fuel delivery once you press the accelerator.
Finding the issue would be great! My point was only that I will put back the carb that was running fine and tear the W-O back apart. I'm not sure why I had to advance the timing so much just to make it run...and The air/fuel screw is turned way too far out for my liking. I know far a fact, all the passages were clear and clean before I put the kit in...double checked the float, pump stroke and metering measurements...only thing I can think is I put a jet or check ball in the wrong place?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote usmcpmi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Dec. 2018 at 7:11pm
I pulled the W-O back apart. Found the accelerator pump plunger was stuck in the bore. Took everything else all apart and tried just working the pump shaft in and out of the bore. Still way too much resistance. I still had all the old parts I had taken out,  so I put the old one in and it worked fine. Reassembled the rest and will try it later this week. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ol' Unreliable Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Dec. 2018 at 7:19pm
It sounds like your throttle plate is opening but your accelerator pump isn't pumping at the same time.  When I did the rebuild on my WO I found that the shaft of the accelerator pump, which is a stamped part, wouldn't slide in its hole smoothly.  I had to take a stone to it and work the stamped edges down until it moved smoothly.  Did you need to do that?  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote usmcpmi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Dec. 2018 at 8:00pm
Yes, when I put the pump plunger from the kit it, it had clearance issues so I "corrected " it with a file. But that wasn't the whole problem. Like I posted earlier, the plunger end, was way too right on the housing bore. So I put the old one back in and it works as it should. Hopefully, i will be able to get it to work when I put it back on. 
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