Restoring cj2a 59108 into mb tribute WWII

Nice job on the windshield patch and that drain is a good idea, easier to let the water go through than to try andkkeep it out.

That looks really nice!  So much work for such small piece.  Most people don't appreciate how much time goes into restoration.  I do.  Well done.  Like the socket idea.

Man that looks good! I wish I had put mine on a roticerie BS hanging from the rafters... and I wish I had better lighting. LOL

Stupid question: what gauge steel did you use on your floor? I'm using 18g for the body and fender work but I'm debating using thicker steel for the floor.
I still need to measure out and dab the hump for the MG mount.

2t2-crash wrote: Stupid question: what gauge steel did you use on your floor? I'm using 18g for the body and fender work but I'm debating using thicker steel for the floor. I still need to measure out and dab the hump for the MG mount.

I also used 18 gauge for my body and fenders,but for the floor I know I went at least with 16 gauge because there is no ribs in my floor and when I did my floor riser and hat channels I thick I went with 12 gauge, it's been over 3 years when I did the floor.That the way I did it ,when I started I did not know about this forum. I wish I would have know about this forum 3 1/2 years ago, it would have be really helpful.The main thing is having fun building your jeep.It's a good stress relief

Giles

Nobody would ever guess what you started with. You must of had one hell of a vision. Bright lights, angles coming down through the clouds speaking to you, do it, do it. So impressive with what you started with and its transformation. Waiting for the finished product.

Gil wrote: 2t2-crash wrote: Yeah I just went back and saw it. Also how are you getting your weld seams to disappear so well? Lots of grinding ,dollying and body work .For the floor were I had to cover the weld I used a product called Metal 2 Metal it's a metal reinforced body filler.

For sanding in tight inside corners I use a Dremel and for repairing dented wheel well housing ribs I use a plastic putty spreader and I cut it the shape of the rib, it make it easy to spread a light coat of body filler and I don't have much sanding and for my side panels the first coat of body filler I remove it with a 8" DA with 80 grid to bring it straight and the second coat of body filler is a lite coat so I use a sanding block to finish.That the way I did my tub.

I installed my seat covers with foam to see how they would fit before painting the seat frames.The seat frames are M38 modified to fit my tub.To cut the foam I used silicone lube on the knife it make it easier to cut .That bottom seat is the one for the driver side , I will be able to remove it when fuelling .

Edited by Gil - 03 Mar. 2017 at 12:15pm

I like your tallent and do it yourself attitude. Good job!  For your info, the WW2 headlight pot hinges install under the top grill ledge, not on top.  The hinge rubs the heck out of the hood and your headlight will be a bit too high. Also, to cut foam like a pro, use a electric  carving knife for roasts and such. The one with opposite moving blades. It's amazing how well it works.  People will not know that isn't a real WW2 Jeep. You aren't afraid to work, and your metal/welding skills are good.  Oilly