Rockgod's '51 CJ3a Project

Bruce W wrote: ???  Where did you get that? Wait, don’t tell me, let me guess.  Didn’t you say you were going to eliminate the heater? Put some Permatex #2 on those plugs in the new pump and tighten them up. Go to your FLAPS and get another pipe plug, remove the hose barb from the head and plug the hole.  BW

Bruce W wrote:   I don't know that a hose from the rear of the head to the water pump will have any effect on cooling efficiency. Jeeps that left the factory without a heater did not have a hose in its place, the ports were plugged. The bypass hose that was used on CJ3A's and the F-head was connected from the front of the head to the water pump. An extra coolant hose in the engine compartment is just something else to have a chance to leak.   Did that hose barb with the washers come with the pump, or did you buy that extra?   BW

Rockgod1619 wrote: Well I was working today on all the cooling system woes and I was attempting to remove the stopcock from the rear top of the block where the heater hose outlet was so I could put a pipe plug in it. It broke off at the threads, even with the top of the block. Anyone got any ideas on how to get it out without too much trouble?

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Now that's funny. I like Anvil's approach. I've never had good luck with easy outs, though on occasion they do work. 

Well the (Not So) Easy Out didn't do jack squat!  I got it in there and put enough muscle on it to break a jaw off a 1/2" wrench!  Soaked the threads multiple times in brake fluid, PB Blaster, and another penetrating oil a friend of mine had.  Still nothing.  So I guess my next step is to try to saw vertically through what's left of the stopcock in a few places and try to break it loose.  Unfortunately I can't get a jigsaw in there under the cowl, which would make it go a lot faster.  Hand power it is!

I would not have taken a hacksaw to it as you will (have) undoubtedly saw into the threads. Tapered pipe threads seal by close fit of male threads to the female threads and if you have a line in it, you now have a path for a leak. 

I didn't realize that the fitting was brass, so yes, welding is out. You could still braze it but it will be kind of tough to lay a bead around the ID in the vertical position it's in. I would clean it up really well and braze a piece of brass rod to it. If you still can get it out, cut it off just above flush, grind it flat and pretty, and call it a day. You can always deal with it at a later day when you have more time.  

This is what it looks like currently.